HOW  TO  MAKE 

A  FLOWER 

GARDEN 


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NEW  VO«K  3,  N.  Y. 


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HOW  TO   MAKE  A  FLOWER    GARDEN 


How  to 
Make  a  Flower  Garden 


A  Manual  of    Practical    Information 
and  Suggestions 


Illustrated 


NEW  YORK 

DOUBLEDAY,  PAGE  &  COMPANY 

1905 


Copyright,  1901,  1902,  1903,  by 

Doubleday,    Pagje    &    Company 

Published,   November,   1903 


CONTENTS 


Introduction: 

CHAPTER 


The  Spirit  of  the  Home  Garden 


PAGE 

L.  H.  Bailey      xiii 


II. 


III. 


IV. 


Annuals 

I.     The  Best  Kinds  and  How  to  Grow  Them     L.  H.  Bailey 
II.     How  to  Get  Early  Flowers    .         .       Hattie  L.  Knight 

Perennials     .......... 

I.     Some   Lessons  from  the  Pan-American 


Exposition     .... 
II.     How  to  Make  a   Border 
III.     Hardy  Perennials  from  Seed 
IV.     Our  Hardy  Flowers 
V.     Scattered  Planting  vs.  Masses 

Shrubs  and  Shrubbery 

I.     Shrubs  and  Where  to  Put  Them 
II.     How  to  Prune  Shrubs 
III.     Home  Propagation  of  Shrubbery 

Trees  for  the  Home  Grounds 

I.     Flowering  and  Ornamental  Trees 
IL     Some  Weeping  Trees 


L.  H.  Bailey 

F.   W.  Barclay 

Hattie  L.  Knight 

Alice  M.   Rathbone 

L.  H.  Bailey 

William  Falconer 

Frank  H.  Sweet 

O.  C.  Simonds 
W.  C.   Egan 


i6 
25 

26 
36 
39 

52 

53 

69 
78 

83 
92 


vi  Contents 

CHAPTER  PAGE 

V.     Vines  and  Creepers 97 

I.     Select  List  of  Vines     .         .         .         .         W.  C.  Egan 

II.     A  Convenient  Classification  of  Vines           "J.  A.  R."  102 

III.     Some  Pumpkins     .         .         William  Chambers  Wilbor  103 

IV.     Annual  Vines  to  Conceal  Rubbish   ''The  Fullertons"  106 

V.     Pergolas — A    Suggestion      .         .         .         .         "  Af."  107 

VI.     A  Bit  of  Nature's  Gardening        .         .         "  W.  C.  5."  108 

VI.     Native  Ferns  for  Shady  Places      .         .         W.  H.  Taplin  iii 

VII.     Bulbs 119 

I.     Hardy  Bulbs  for  Fall  Planting      .         Patrick  O'Mara 

II.     Practical  Directions  for  Bulb  Culture  Edward  J.  Canning  132 

VIII.     The    Water    Garden     and    the     Mosquito 

Problem           .         .          .         William    Lyman     Underivood  137 

IX.     Water-lilies  and  Other  Aquatic  Plants    William  Tricker  147 

X.     Rock  Gardens  and  Alpine   Plants      Edward  J.   Canning  161 

XI.     The    Home    Window    Garden       .    Edith    Loring    Fullcrton  175 

XII.     Coldframes  for  Wintering  Plants 189 

I.     Coldframes  for  the  Country  Home     .    J.  N.   Gerard 

II.     An  Amateur's   Experience        .         .         James   Wood  190 

III.     Advice  of  a  Market  Gardener      .         Patrick  O'Mara  194 

IV.     Inexpensive   Pits  for  the   South        .         Laura  Jones  197 

V.     Violets    in    Coldframes          .          .         Sarah    Hopkins  198 

VI.     Pansies,  Forget-me-nots  and  Wallflowers 

Thomas    Murray  200 

XIII.     Hotbeds  for  Early  Flowers 203 

I.     How  to  Manage  Hotbeds       .         .  Patrick  O'Mara 

II.     How  to   Make  a   Hotbed         .         .         W.   C.   Egan  205 

XIV.     The  Pleasures  of  a  Small  Greenhouse      ....  209 
I.     The   Greenhouse   in   the   Snow         .         L.   H.   Bailey 

II.     The  Fun  of  Having  a  Greenhouse     Arthur  G.  Minshall  214 

III.  Grow  the  Easy  Things       .         .         .         J.  A.  Ellis  218 

IV.  A    Suburban    Experience         .         „         J-    N.    Gerard  221 
V.     A  Rose-fancier's  Hobby       .         .         Edward  A.  Reed  225 

VI.     A  General  Collection  of  Plants      .         Hugo  Erichsen  226 

VII.     A  Greenhouse  Near  Cincinnati       .         E.   T.  Harvey  229 

VIII.     The  Cost  of  a  Greenhouse                    Maida  Maitland  233 


Contents  vii 

CHAPTER  pj^gB 

XV.     How    TO    Make    a    Formal    Garden    at    a 

Moderate  Cost    ....     Warren    H.    Manning     239 

XVI.     Japanese  Gardening  for  Small  Areas       ....     259 
I.     A  Japanese  Garden  in  an  American  Yard 

William    Verbeck 
II.     The  Japanese  Garden  in    Golden    Gate 

Park       .         .     C.H.  T  owns  end  and  E.  C.  B.  Fasseit     271 

XVII.     Wild  Gardens 283 

I.     Wild  Gardening  in  a  Small  Area    .    James  J.    Allen 
II.     California  Wild  Flowers  for  American 

Gardens.         ....       Joseph  Biirtt  Davy     293 

XVIII.     Roses 299 

I.     Where   Shall   We   Plant    Roses?      .         L.    H.   Bailey 
II.     The  Modern  Tendency  in  Roses     .         Leonard  Barron     300 

III.  Outdoor    Roses    for    the    South      P.    J.    Berckmans     307 

IV.  Hardy  Roses  Near  Chicago       .         .         W.  C.  Egan 
V.     Pruning  Roses        .  .         .         B:  M.   Watson 

VI.     A  Rose  Bank W.H.Sargent     320 

XIX.     How  I  Built  My  Country  Home       .         .         W.  C.  Egan     323 
(A  Concrete  Example  of  Landscape  Gardening) 

Appendix 

I.     Flowers  for  Special  Purposes       .         .     M.  G.  Kains 
II.     How  to  Grow  Flowers      .         .         .         M.  G.  Kains 
Index 367 


311 
315 


351 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


SUBJECT 

Cover   design    .... 
Frontispiece     .... 
Title-page  decoration    . 
Head-piece  for  contents  page 
Plantago   Purshii    . 
Western  past] tie  flower 

Pyrola 

Japanese   Iris  .... 

Greenhouse   hydrangea. 

Phyllocactus    .... 

Alagiiolia    Yiilan     . 

Ligiislntm  Ibota,  var.  Regdiaiiutn 

Native  white  water-lily 

Poppies     .         .  .         . 

Annual   wallflowers 

Zinnias      .         .  .         . 

Sweet  pea        .... 

China  asters    .... 

Japanese   morning-glories 

California  poppy     . 

Horned  poppy 

Mexican  poppy 

Four-o'clock     .... 

Sweet   pea   garden. 

A  plant-table  .... 

Detail  of  plant-table     . 

Madia  clegans 

A  bed  of  grasses    . 

Crown  imperial 

Companion   crops  in  floriculture 

A  mixed  border 

Shooting  star  .... 

An  effective  border-planting 

The  tulip-poppy     . 

Double  hollyhocks 

The   "Golden   Glow"      . 

Foxgloves  in  a  border. 

Shortia  galacijolia 

Matilija  poppv 

White   Day-Lily      . 

Hybrid  Day-Lily    . 

Herbaceous   border  in  front  of  a  house 

A  young  hollyhock  in  spring 

Example  of   massed  planting 

Example  of  scattered  planting  . 

Clump  of  wild  roses     . 

Ugly  corners  screened . 

Truss  of  azalea  mollis  flowers   . 

A  good  treatment  of  sumac 

The  pond  in   rhododendron  time 

Azalea  ajnocna 

Deiitzia  gracilis 

Hardy  hybrid   rhododendrons 

The  swamp   leucothoi   . 

Spircca   Van   Houitei 

A  bit  of  effective  border  planting 

The  Chinese  flowering  crab 


PHOTOGR.\PHER 

PAGE 

Henry  Troth 

J.   Horace  McFarland  .        .         .          ii 

].   N.   Gerard 

iii 

J.   Horace  McFarland 

V 

C.  J.   Hibbard 

X 

C.    T-   Hibbard 

xi 

C.  J.   Hibbard 

xiii 

■■.   Horace  McFarland 

XV 

]■.   Horace  McFarland 

x\'ii 

j.   Horace  McFarland 

x\"iii 

^  .   Horace   McFarland 

xix 

J.   Horace  McFarland 

x.xi 

C.  J.  Hibbard 

xxiii 

.   Horace  McFarland 

3 

'  .   Horace   McFarland 

3 

]  .   Horace  McFarland 

5 

'  .   Horace  McFarland 

.   Horace  McFarland 

!           8 

''  .   Horace  McFarland 

9 

O.   V.   Lange  . 

1 1 

0.   V.   Lange  . 

13 

O.   V.   Lange  . 

15 

J.   Horace  McFarland 

17 

George  D.   Bartlett,  Ji 

19 

W.   C.   Baker  . 

20 

W.   C.   Baker  . 

21 

0.   V.   Lange  . 

23 

J.   Horace  McFarland 

27 

Mrs.  W.   C.   Egan  . 

29 
30 

J.    Horace   McFarland 

31 

J.   Horace  McFarland 

U 

J.   Horace  McFarland 

34 

E.   N.   Fischer 

35 

J.   Horace  McFarland 

37 

J.   Horace  McFarland  . 

41 
43 
44 

O.   V.   Lange  . 

45 

Lennie   Greenlee 

47 

A.   Herrington 

47 

T.   E.   Marr     . 

49 

W.   C.   Baker  . 

51 

J.    Horace   McFarland 

52 

C.   W.    Furlong        . 

52 

L.  H.  Bailey 

53 

54 

Mrs.   W.   C.    Egan. 

55 
5  7 

T.   E.   Marr     . 

59 

.  .   Horace  McFarland 
.   Horace  McFarland 

62 

62 

T.   E.   Marr     . 

•  63 
6=; 

67 

C.  J.   Crandall 

Mrs.  W.  C.    Egan 

70 

T.  E.  Marr     . 

71 

List  of  Illustrations — Continued 


SUBJECT 

A  vista  of  hardy  herbs,   shrubs   and  trees 

The  woods  as  a  background  for  informal  borders 

Philadelphtis    .... 

Hydrangea       .... 

A  sunny  corner  grown   wild  with  lilacs 

Tail-piece  .... 

TuHps        

]\Iagnolia  stcUata     . 

Hooker's   hemlock. 

The  Colorado  blue  spruce    . 

Transplanting  large  trees 

A   wild  plum   .... 

The  pepperidge 

A   wild  thorn-apple   tree 

The  native  white  birch 

Swamp  white  oak. 

E\ergreens  in  winter    . 

The  dead  and  weak  limbs  . 

Young's  weeping  birch 

The  weeping  mulberry. 

Tea's  weeping  mulberry 

Camperdown  elm   . 

The   Wisconsin  weeping  willow 

The  glittering  raiment  of  soft  snow 

Tail-piece  .... 

Virginia  creeper 

Vines  o\'errun  it  on  all  sides 

An  aged  or  dead  tree  . 

A   pergola  at   Biltmore. 

Arbour  covered  by  one  of  the  mat 

Rose  arch         .... 

Ampelopsis  on  a  wall 

Pumpkin  vine  at  back  door 

Side  view  of  pumpkin  vine 

Unsightly  objects   screened. 

A  pergola  in  a  formal  garden 

A  bit  of  Nature's  gardening  . 

A  glimpse  of  wild  gardening 

The  walking  leaf     . 

Asplenium   Trichomanes 

Maidenhair  ferns    . 

The  cinnamon  fern 

Christmas  fern 

The  clenched  fists  of  expandin, 

The  blue  asters 

Double  Narcissus   . 

Trumpet  daffodil    . 

Double  golden   daffodil. 

Tulips  in  a  formal  bed    . 

A   bed  of  squills     . 

The  same  bed  in  bloom 

A   group  of  crocuses 

The  poet's  narcissus 

Tulips  edging  an  informal  shrubbery  border 

A  bed  of  narcissus 

Tulip    "  Kaiser- Kroon  "  . 

White  Hyacinths    . 

A  bit  of  Mr.  Underwood's  water  garden 

The  margin  was  well  sodded 

So  near  and  yet  so  far 

Our  friends  the   frogs    . 

All  along  the  farther  end    . 

How  mosquitoes  breed 

Goldfish  feeding 


PHOTOGRAPHER 

Mrs.   W.   C.    Egan 

Mrs.   W.   C.    Egan 

J.   Horace  McFarland 

W.   C.   Baker 

T.   E.   Marr 

J.   Horace  McFarland 

J.   Horace    McFarland 

Arthur  F.   Whitin. 

J.   Horace  McFarland 

J.   Horace  McFarland 

T.    Horace   McFarland 

L.   H.    Bailev. 

L.   H.    Bailey. 

L.   H.    Bailey. 

L.    H.    Bailev. 

W.   C.   Baker  . 

W.   C.   Baker  . 

W.   H.   Sargent 

Mrs.  W.  C.   Egan 

Mrs.   W.   C.    Egan 

Mrs.    W.    C.    Egan 

Mrs.    W.    C.    Egan 

Mrs.   W.   C.    Egan 


J.    Horace   McFarland 
W.   C.   Baker  . 
T.   E.   Marr     . 


C.  F.  Ray  . 
Mrs.  W.  C.  Egan 
Mrs.  W.  C.  Egan 
Henrv  Troth  . 
W\  C.  W^ilbor 
W.  C.  Wilbor 
H.   B.   Fullerton     . 


W.  C.  Schuneman 
Mrs.  W.  C.  Egan. 
Henry  Troth  . 
G.  A.  Woolson 
J.  Horace  McFarland 
Verne  Morton 
Verne  I\Iorton 
Henry  Troth  . 
J.  Horace  McFarland 
J.  Horace  McFarland 
J.  Horace  McFarland 
J.  Horace  McFarland 
J.  Horace  McFarland 
Mrs.  W.  C.  Egan 
Mrs.  W.  C.  Egan 
J.  Horace  McFarland 
J.  Horace  McFarland 
J.  Horace  McFarland 
J.  Horace  McFarland 
J.  Horace  McFarland 
J.  Horace  McFarland 
Wm.  Lyman  Underwood 
Wm.  Lyman  Underwood 
Wm.  Lyman  Underwood 
Wm.  Lyman  Underwood 
Wm.  Lyman  Underwood 
Wm.  Lyman  Underwood 
Wm.   Lyman  Underwood 


14,3 
144 


List  of  Illustrations — Continued 


XI 


SUBJECT 

Water-Hlies  as  cut   flowers  . 

The  so-called   "Egyptian"   lotus 

Lotvis  in  a  farmer's  yard     . 

The  white  water-lily  of  the  South 

Pitcher  plant  in  flower 

Victoria  regia  in  flower 

The  wonderful  sustaining  power  of  Victoria  rcgia 

A  small  water-lily  pond 

Another  view  of  the  same  pond 

Under  side  of  a  Victoria  leaf     . 

An  "open"   rock  garden 

A  glimpse  of  the   rock  garden    . 

A  bit   of  nature-like  rock  gardening. 

A  successful  window  garden 

A  good  corner  of  bulbs 

The  window  garden       .... 

The  common  heliotrope 

A  truss  of  hyacinth       .... 

One  of  the   pi-imroses    ... 

A  good  cyclamen 

The  Bermuda   buttercuD 

The  polyanthus  narcissus     . 

Gloirc  de  Lorraine  Begonia 

A  novel  way   of  growing  wild  flowers 

Cheap  but  effective  pits 

Azalea  shed  and  pits    .... 

Coldframes  of  brick  and  iron 

A  market  gardener's  lay-out   of  glass 

View  in  a  greenhouse      .... 

Hotbeds    ....... 

Greenhouse   in   winter    . 

The  fences  protrude      .... 

A  snug  httle   greenhouse 

It  is  pleasant  to  grow  one's  own  carnations 

Orchids 

Chrysanthemums  on  a  side  bench 

Easter  time 

An  ideal  worth   striving  for 

A  general  collection  of  plants     . 

Mr.   E.   T.   Harvey's  modest  greenhouse 

A  greenhouse  that  could  be  built  for  about 

A  winter  home   in   Florida  . 

It  is  worth  while  to  ha\-e  a  little  greenhouse 

Begonia  Gloire   de   Lorraine 

Initial 

A  bit  of  formal   gardening  . 

An  Italian  garden   at   Brookline 

Hardy  grasses   as   elements  of  formal  garden 

A  bit  of  dwarf   flowering  cannas 

Where  both   styles   meet 

Formal  beds  edged  with  box 

A  modest  formal   garden 

Two  distinct  styles   of  formal  gardening 

Stately  steps  descend  into  the  formal  garden 

Where  the  sun-dial  has  the  place  of  honour 

A  common    example  of  bedding-out . 

Bits  of  old  box   hedge. 

Bulb  time 

Standard  roses 

"With  rye   straw  I   thatched  the  gate" 
"I  built  an   impossible  red  bridge"  . 
"I   laid  out   an  irregular  square" 
"I   wanted  to  see  and  hear  real  water" 
Glimpses  of  a  Japanese  garden 


PHOTOGRAPHER 

J.    Horace   McFarland 
C.   C.   Pierce  &  Co. 
Charles  F.   Barber 
Mrs.   M.   S.   Gaines 
Verne  Morton 
A.   A.   Coult    . 
James   Gurney 
E.   T.   Harvey 
E.   T.   Harvev 
A.   A.   Cotilt  ■ . 
Wurts   Bros.    . 
T.   E.   Marr      . 
J.    Horace   McFarland 
Miss   Mary  G.   Huntsm 
y,    Horace    McFarland 
H.   B.   Fullerton 


n 

H 

B 

Fullerton 

H 

B 

Fullerton 

H 

B 

Fullerton 

H 

B 

Fullerton 

S. 

Stockton   Hornor 

H 

B 

Fullerton     . 

J. 

Horace    McFarland 

Oscar 

von   Engeln 

L. 

H 

Bailey 

H 

S. 

Adams 

H 

S. 

Adams 

A. 

F. 

Brinckcrhoff 

L. 

H, 

Bailcv    . 

L. 

H. 

Bailev    . 

L. 

H. 

Bailev    . 

W 

C 

Baker  . 

L. 

H. 

Bailev    . 

G.   W.   Burger 
Geo.   D.   Morgan     . 
Eugene  J.   Hall      . 
Geo.    D.    Morgan     . 
Geo.   D.    Morgan     . 
E.   T.    Har\ey 
E.   T.   Har\"ev 
Eugene  J.   Hall      . 
Volberg    . 

J.    Horace   McFarland 
C.   E.   Hooper 
Wurts   Bros.    . 
T.   E.   Marr      . 
Mrs.  W.  C.  Egan     . 
J.    Horace   McFarland 
J.    Horace   McFarland 
Henry  Troth  . 
Henry  Troth  . 
Wurts   Bros.    . 
J.    Horace   McFarland 
J.    Horace   McFarland 
J.    Horace   McFarland 
Henry  Troth  . 
J.    Horace    McFarland 
Henry  Troth  . 
H.   F/.   Ransier 
Chas.   P.   Marshall. 
Chas.   P.   Marshall. 
Chas.   P.   Marshall. 
Henrv   Troth  . 


xu 


List  of  Illustrations — Continued 


SUBJECT 

Another  view  of  the  same  garden 

Robust  clumps  of  calla  hly 

The  temple  gate  at  the  entrance  of 

Cranes  in  a  Japanese  garden 

Adder's  tongue 

Rue  anemone  .... 

False  Solomon's  seal     . 

Trillium  grandiflorum    . 

Commonest  and  best  of  the  goldenrod 

A  colony  of  the  native  orchid 

Wintergreen  and  Indian  pipe 

Dalibarda  repens     . 

The  lemon-lily 

A  spray  of  single  roses 

Crimson  Rambler  . 

Psyche 

Roses  in  California 

White  Lady     . 

Rosa  spinosissima  . 

A  good  pillar  rose 

Hybrid  perpetual  rose 

Crimson  Rambler    . 

Crimson  Rambler  pruned 

Rosa  riigosa     . 

A  rose  bank    . 

Tail-piece 

The  house  as  it  looked  in   189 

The  house  in   1900 

Side  yard  in   1902. 

A  view  of  the  lake 

The  side  yard  in   1S90. 

The  same  side  yard  ten  years  later 


the 


garden 


PHOTOGRAPHER 

PAGE 

Henry  Troth 269 

0.  V.  Lange     . 

273 

0.  V.  Lange     . 

277 

0.  V.  Lange     . 

281 
284 
285 

Verne  Morton 

287 

Verne  Morton 

2S8 

J.    Horace   McFarland 

289 

\\.   Horace   McFarland 

291 

]'.   Horace   McFarland 

294 

}.   Horace   McFarland 

295 

T.    Horace   McFarland 

296 

"Herbert  Randall    . 

301 

T.    Horace   McFarland 
J.   Horace   McFarland 

i°i 

304 

t.   Horace  McFarland 

305 
309 

Mrs.  W.  C.  Egan     . 

312 

J.    Horace   McFarland 

313 

W.   C.   Baker  . 

i'^':^ 

W.   C.   Baker  . 

316 

W.   C.   Baker  . 

316 

J.   Horace   McFarland 

317 

W.   H.   Sargent       . 

320 

Mrs.  W.  C.  Egan     .' 

321 
324 

Mrs.  W.  C.  Egan     . 

324 

Mrs.  W.  C.  Egan     . 

326 

Mrs.  W.  C.  Egan     . 

327 

Mrs.  W.  C.  Egan     . 

328 

Mrs.  W.  C.  Egan 

329 

INTRODUCTION 

The  Spirit  of  the  Home  Garden 

Simple  ScBiresi,  toitl)  eberp  tseahe  tocll  plannefi  anti  tocll  carrieB  out,  result  in  tbe  begt  carteng. 
^be  gartien  must  fae  pours;  it  it  is  anotljer's  it  is  not  taoxti)  tbe  tofjile  to  pou, 
a  CooO  garUen  is  tt)e  one  tl)at  gibes  its  otnner  tlje  most  pleasure:  i)e  map  croto  ortljiUs  or  tt)istlc», 
S|)e  measure  of  success  in  tl)e  garlien  is  tlje  sensitibe  minB  ratfjer  tl)an  tf)e  plants. 

By   L.  H.  Bailey 


HE  home  garden  is  for  the  affections.  It  is  for  quality. 
Its  size  is  wholly  immaterial  if  only  it  have  the  best.  I 
do  not  mean  the  rarest  or  the  costliest,  but  the  best — the 
best  geranium  or  the  best  lilac.  Even  the  fruit  garden  and 
the  vegetable  garden  are  also  for  the  affections:  one  can 
buy  ordinary  fruits  and  vegetables — it  never  pays  to  grow  them  in  the 
home  garden.  When  you  want  something  superior,  you  must  grow  it,  or 
else  buy  it  at  an  advanced  price  directly  from  some  one  who  grows  for 
quality  and  not  for  quantity.  If  you  want  the  very  choicest  and  the  most 
personal  products,  almost  necessarily  you  must  grow  them:  the  value  of 
these  things  cannot  be  measured  in  money.  The  commercial  gardener 
may  grow  what  the  market  wants,  and  the  market  wants  chiefly  what  is 
cheap  and  good  looking.  The  home  gardener  should  grow  what  the  market 
cannot  supply,  else  the  home  garden  is  not  worth  the  while. 

A  garden  is  a  place  in  which  plants  are  grown,  and  "plants"  are  herbs 
and  vines  and  bushes  and  trees  and  grass.  Too  often  do  persons  think 
that  only  formal  and  pretentious  places  are  gardens.  But  an  open  lawn 
about  the  house  may  be  a  garden ;  so  may  a  row  of  hollyhocks  along  the 
wall  or  an  arrangement  of  plants  in  the  greenhouse.  Usually  there  is  some 
central  feature  to  a  garden,  a  theme  to  which  all  other  parts  relate.  This 
may  be  a  walk  or  a  summer-house  or  a  sun-dial  or  a  garden  bed  or  the  residence 
itself,  or  a  brook  falling  down  the  sward  between  trees  and  bushes  and  clumpy 
growths.  There  are  as  many  forms  and  kinds  of  gardens  as  there  are  persons 
who  have  gardens;  and  this  is  one  reason  why  the  garden  appeals  to  every 

xiii 


xiv  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

one,  and  why  it  may  become  the  expression  of  personahty.  You  need 
follow  no  man's  plan.  The  simplest  garden  is  likely  to  be  the  best,  merely 
because  it  is  the  expression  of  a  simple  and  teachable  life. 

Grow  the  plants  that  you  want,  but  do  not  want  too  many.     Most  persons 
when  thev  make  a  garden  order  a  quantity  of  labels.     Fatal  mistake  !     Labels 


Plantago  Purshii,  one  of  the  western  plantains.     These  are  good  "specimens,"  displaying  the  characteristics  of 
the  species  to  perfection 


are  for  collections  of  plants — collections  so  big  that  you  cannot  remember, 
and  when  you  cannot  remember  you  lose  the  intimacy,  and  when  you  lose 
the  intimacy  you  lose  the  essence  of  the  garden.  Choose  a  few  plants  for 
the  mam  plantings.  These  must  be  hardy,  vigorous,  sure  to  thrive  whether 
it  rains  or  shines.     These  plants  you  can  buy  in  quantity  and  in  large, 


2^    /lA*^  '/v 

'  ^^^l^l^^r^^ 

■JBrnt-^Ji^^; 

'^'::-^'«r ' 

ft: 

,##'     H 

_^^^M>i...-^^ 

.^    :5'i':\.. 

^Rjp\.  ;:.A -■  '••^" 

Introduction  xvii 

strong  specimens.  Each  clump  or  group  or  border  may  be  dominated 
by  one  kind  of  plant — foxgloves,  hollyhocks,  spireas,  asters.  The  odd 
and  unusual  things  you  may  grow  as  incidents,  as  jewelry  is  an  incident 
to  good  dress.  Miscellanec  us  mixtures  are  rarely  satisfactory.  The  point 
IS  that  the  character  of  the  home  garden  should  be  given  by  the  plants 
that  are  most  sure  to  thrive.  The  novelties  and  oddities  should  be  subjects 
of  experiment:  if  they  fail,  the  garden  still  remains. 


if  the  native  shin 


intergreens.     A  good  suggestion  for  the  mass  planting 
wild  flowers 


The  lawn  should  be  the  first  care  in  any  home  ground.  All  effective 
planting  has  relation  to  this  foundation.  Homelikeness  also  depends  upon 
it.  Grass  will  grow  anywhere,  to  be  sure,  but  mere  grass  does  not  make  a 
lawn.  You  must  have  a  sod;  and  this  sod  must  grow  better  every  year. 
This  means  good  and  deep  preparation  of  the  land  m  the  beginning,  rich 
soil,  fertilising  each  year,  re-sowmg  and  mending  where  the  sod  becomes  thm. 


xviii  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

Usually  we  water  our  lawns  too  much,  making  the  grass  shallow-rooted 
and  causing  it  to  fail  early.  Every  inducement  should  be  made  for  the 
grass  roots  to  go  down. 

In  very  shady  nlaces,  as  under  trees  and  wide  eaves,  it  is  very  difficult 
to  secure  a  good  sod.  In  such  cases  we  must  rely  on  other  plants  for  the 
carpet-cover.  Of  these  other  plants,  the  best  for  the  North  is  the  common 
running  myrtle,  or  periw^inkle.  Sods  of  this  make  an  immediate  and  per- 
sistent cover.  Lily-of-the-valley  also  makes  a  fairly  satisfactory  ground- 
cover  in  some  places.  If  the  soil  is  damp,  the  moneywort  may  be  tried, 
although  it  sometimes  becomes  a  pest.  Take  note  of  the  ground-cover  in 
all  shady  places  that  you  come  across.     You  will  get  suggestions. 

Put  walks  where  they  are  needed — this  is  the  universal  rule;  but  be 
sure  they  are  needed.  In  the  -  beginning  you  will  think  you  need  more 
than  you  actually  do  need.  How  to  get  the  proper  curve  ?  'Perhaps  you  do 
not  need  a  curve.  There  are  tw^o  fixed  points  in  every  walk — the  beginning 
and  the  ending.  Some  walks  lack  either  one  or  the  other  of  these  points, 
and  I  have  seen  some  that  seemed  to  lack  both.  Go  from  one  point  to  the 
other  in  the  easiest  and  simplest  way  possible.  If  you  can  throw  in  a  gentle 
curve,  you  may  enhance  the  charm  of  it;  and  you  may  not.  Directness 
and  convenience  should  never  be  sacrificed  for  mere  looks — for  "looks" 
has  no  reason  for  being  unless  it  is  related  to  something. 

For.  main  walks  that  are  much  used,  cement  and  stone  flagging  are 
good  materials,  because  they  are  durable,  and  they  keep  down  the  w^eds. 
There  is  no  trouble  in  making  a  durable  cement  or  "artificial  stone"  walk 
in  the  northern  climates  if  the  underdrainage  is  good  and  the  cement  is 
"rich.  "  For  informal  walks,  the  natural  loam  may  be  good ;  or  sharp  gravel 
that  will  pack;  or  cmders;  or  tan-bark.  For  very  narrow  walks  or  trails 
in  the  back  yard  I  like  to  sink  a  ten-inch-w4de  plank  to  the  level  of  the 
sod.  It  marks  the  direction,  allows  you  dry  passage,  the  lawn-mower 
passes  over  it,  and  it  will  last  for  several  years  with  no  care  whatever.  In 
flower  gardens,  a  strip  of  sod  may  be  left  as  a  walk;  but  the  disadvantage 
of  it  is  that  it  retains  dews  and  the  water  of  rainfall  too  long.  Some  of  the 
most  delightful  periods  for  viewing  the  garden  are  the  early  morning  and 
the  "cleanng  spell"  after  a  shower. 

There  should  be  no  fence  unless  there  is  a  reason  for  it.  Some  persons 
seem  to  want  fences  just  for  the  purpose  of  having  them.  Of  themselves,  open 
fences   are   rarely   ornamental   or  desirable.     They  are  expensive  property. 


The  Japanese  Iris  (Iris  laevigata,  but  commonly  known  as  I.  Kaempferi),  now  j;row  n   in   many   forms  and  always   useful 


Introduction 


The  money  put  into  a  fence  will  often  buy  enough  plants  to  stock  the  place. 
Front  fences,  in  particular,  are  rarely  desirable.  The  street  and  the  walk 
sufficiently  define  the  place.  Now  and  then  a  person  wants  a  front  fence 
to  give  his  place  privacy.  This  may  be  a  perfectly  legitimate  desire,  but 
the  requirements  are  usually  best  satisfied  by  means  of  a  low  and  substantial 
wall.  A  fence  means  protection.  A  wall  may  mean  seclusion ;  and  it 
may   easily  be    made    a    part    of    the   architectural  features  of  the  place. 


The  greenhouse  hydrangea  as  a  summer  tub  plant 

Walls  usually  work  well  into  the  planting  designs  of  a  home  ground,  but 
the  instances  where  fences  do  this  are  exceedingly  rare. 

Even  in  the  back  yard  a  wall  may  be  preferable  to  a  fence,  but  pecuniary 
considerations  may  determine  for  a  fence;  and,  moreover,  a  real  fence  is 
more  in  keeping  in  a  rear  yard,  for  that  yard  is  usually  most  in  danger  of 


xxu 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


molestation.  In  the  back  yard,  the  fence  may  become  also  a  screen  and 
a  shelter.  Usually  it  can  be  covered  with  vines — sometimes  with  grape- 
vines— to  advantage,  or  be  "planted  out"  with  bushes  and  trees.  It  is 
good  practice  to  allow  the  fence  to  obtrude  itself  as  little  as  possible. 

As  a  whole,  the  garden  is  maintained  for  its  general  effect.     It  is  a  part 
of  an  establishment,  of  which  the  residence,  the  barn,  and  the  boundaries 


An  old-time  phyllocactus,  one  of  the  species  sometimes,  but  improperly,  called  "night-blooming  cereus  " 


Introduction 


are  other  parts.  But 
the  garden  should 
also  have  certain 
parts  that  are  for 
distinct  or  particular 
service,  that  should 
be  to  the  general 
garden  what  pantries 
and  bedrooms  and 
closets  are  to  the 
house.  These  garden- 
rooms  are  for  vege- 
tables or  fiowers  or 
fruits  or  sweet  herbs. 
These  things  are 
grown  for  use  in  the 
family,  not  for  their 
effect  as  a  part  of  a 
garden  picture.  They 
can  be  grown  best  in 
special  areas  set  aside 
for  this  particular 
purpose,  where  the 
soil  can  be  regularly 
tilled  and  each  plant 
given  full  room  and 
conditions  to  develop 
to  its  best.  This  is 
as  true  of  flowers  as 
it  is  of  beets  or  straw- 
berries.  The  fact 
that  we  grow  flowers 
also  as  a  part  of  the 
garden  picture  should 
not  obscure  the  fact 
that  we  also  grow 
them  for  cutting  and 


To  illustrate  the  beauty  of  a  bush  CLigustrum 


ar.  Regelianum; 


xxvi  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

for  decoration  and  exhibition.  When  China  asters  are  wanted  because 
they  are  China  asters,  grow  them  where  and  how  China  asters  thrive  best; 
if  they  are  wanted  as  a  part  of  the  general  garden  effect,  grow  them  where 
and  how  this  effect  can  be  best  secured. 

The  place  for  the  service  garden  is  at  one  side  or  the  rear — preferably 
m  the  back  yard.     Grow  the  things  in  rows. 

Give  the  children  an  opportunity  to  make  a  garden.  Let  them  grow 
what  they  will.  Let  them  experiment.  It  matters  less  that  they  produce 
good  plants  than  that  they  try  for  themselves.  A  place  should  be  reserved. 
Let  it  be  well  out  of  sight,  for  the  results  may  not  be  ornamental.  How- 
ever, take  care  that  the  conditions  are  good  for  the  growing  of  plants — ■ 
good  soil,  plenty  of  sun,  freedom  from  the  encroachments  of  tree-roots  and 
from  molestation  of  carriage-drive  or  chickens.  It  may  be  well  to  set  the 
area  off  by  a  high  fence  of  chicken-wire  screen ;  then  cover  the  fence  with 
vines.  Put  a  seat  in  the  enclosure.  This  will  constitute  an  outdoor  nursery 
room ;  and  while  the  child  is  being  entertained  and  is  gaining  health  he 
may  gam  experience  and  nature-sympathy  at  the  same  time. 

There  are  two  kinds  of  interest  in  plants — the  interest  in  the  plant 
itself  for  its  own  sake,  and  the  interest  in  plants  as  part  of  a  mass,  or  as 
elements  in  a  picture.  The  former  is  primarily  the  interest  of  the  plant- 
lover  or  the  botanist ;  the  latter  is  the  interest  of  the  artist.  Fortunately, 
many  persons  have  both  these  elements  highly  developed,  and  every  person 
can  train  himself  to  appreciate  both  points  of  view.  Now,  a  home  ground 
is  one  thing.  It  is,  or  should  be,  homogeneous  in  its  composition.  It 
should  appeal  to  one  as  a  unit :  the  entire  place  should  produce  one  effect. 
This  effect  may  be  that  of  rest  or  retreat  or  seclusion  or  homelikeness.  In 
order  to  produce  this  harmony,  plants  must  be  placed  with  relation  to  each 
other  and  to  the  general  design  of  the  place.  The  abihty  to  do  this  kind 
of  planting  is  one  of  the  attributes  of  a  good  landscape  gardener.  He 
produces  good  "effects"  and  harmonies.  He  thinks  less  of  plants  as  mere 
plants  than  he  does  as  parts  of  a  composition.  He  sees  them  much  as  a 
painter  does.  All  this  is  contrary  to  the  general  conception  of  planting. 
Most  persons,  I  fear,  think  of  a  plant  only  as  a  plant,  and  are  content  when 
it  is  planted.  But  merely  to  plant  a  plant  may  have  little  merit  in  the 
home  grounds :  robins  and  squirrels  do  that  much. 


HOW  TO   MAKE  A  FLOWER    GARDEN 


HOW  TO   MAKE   A    FLOWER  GARDEN 


CHAPTER    I.     ANNUALS 

I.    The  Best  Kinds  and  How  to  Grow  Them 

By  L.   H.   Bailey 


A' 


Wm^7' 


NNUAL  plants  are  those  that  you  must 
sow  every  year.  From  seed  to  seed  is 
only  a  year  or  less.  Annual  plants 
probably  comprise  half  the  flowering  plants  of 
the  world.  They  quickly  take  advantage  of  the 
moving  seasons — grow,  blossom,  and  die  before 
they  are  caught  by  the  blight  of  winter  or  of 
the  parching  dry  season.  They  are  shifty 
plants,  now  growing  here,  then  absconding  to 
other  places.  This  very  uncertainty  and  capri- 
ciousness  makes  them  worth  the  while.  The 
staid  perennials  I  want  for  the  main  and  per- 
manent eftects   in  my  garden,  but   I   could   no 

more  do  without  annuals  than  I  could  do  without  the  spices  and  the  condi- 
ments at  the  table.  They  are  flowers  of  a  season:  I  like  flowers  of  a  season. 
Of  the  kmds  of  annuals  there 

is  almost  no  end       This  does  not 

mean    that   all   are   equally   good. 

For    myself,    I   like    to   make   the 

bold   effects  with  a  few  of  the  old 

profuse  and  reliable  kinds.     I  like 

whole  masses  and  clouds  of  them. 

Then  the  other  kinds  I  like  to  grow 

in  smaller  areas  at  one  side,  m  a 

half -experimental   way.      There  is 

no  need  of  trying  to   grow   equal 

quantities  of  all  the  kinds  that  you 


BHE 

r"^ 

1 

-:  f  •  \i<Hiiwiilir^MiWTf'li3B 

^^B 

Wm^     : 

Annual  wallflowers 


4  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

select.  There  is  no  emphasis  and  no  modulation  in  such  a  scheme.  There 
should  be  major  and  minor  keys. 

The  minor  keys  may  be  of  almost  any  kind  of  plant.  Since  these  plants 
are  semi-experimental,  it  does  not  matter  if  some  of  them  fail  outright. 
Why  not  begin  the  list  at  A  and  buy  as  many  as  you  can  afford  and  can 
accommodate  this  year,  then  continue  the  list  next  year?  In  five  or  ten 
years  you  will  have  grown  the  alphabet,  and  will  have  learned  as  much 
horticulture  and  botany  as  most  persons  learn  in  a  college  course.  And 
some  of  these  plants  will  become  your  permanent  friends. 

F'or  the  main  and  bold  effects  I  want  something  that  I  can  depend  on. 
There  I  do  not  want  to  experiment.  Never  fill  a  conspicuous  place  with  a 
kind  of  plant  that  you  have  never  grown. 

The  kinds  I  like  best  are  the  ones  easiest  to  grow.  My  personal  equation, 
I  suppose,  determines  this.  Zinnia,  petunia,  marigold,  four-o'clock,  sun- 
flower, phlox,  scabiosa,  sweet  sultan,  bachelor's-button,  verbena,  calendula, 
calliopsis,  morning-glory,  nasturtium,  sweet  pea — these  are  some  of  the 
kinds  that  are  surest,  and  least  attacked  by  bugs  and  fungi.  I  do  not 
know  where  the  investment  of  fi\'e  cents  will  bring  as  great  reward  as  in  a 
packet  of  seeds  of  any  of  these  plants. 

Before  one  sets  out  to  grow  these  or  any  other  plants  he  must  make  for 
himself  an  ideal.  Will  he  grow  for  a  garden  effect,  or  for  specimen  plants  or 
specimen  blooms  ?  If  for  specimens,  then  each  plant  must  have  plenty  of 
room  and  receive  particular  individual  care.  If  for  garden  effect,  then  see 
to  it  that  the  entire  space  is  solidly  covered,  and  that  you  have  a  con- 
tinuous blaze  of  colour.  Usually  the  specimen  plants  would  best  be  grown 
in  a  side  garden,  as  vegetables  are,  where  they  can  be  tilled,  trained,  and 
severally  cared  for. 

There  is  really  a  third  ideal,  and  I  hope  that  some  of  you  may  try  it — 
to  grow  all  the  varieties  of  one  species.  You  really  do  not  know  what  the 
China  aster  or  the  balsam  is  until  you  have  seen  all  the  kinds  of  it.  Suppose 
that  you  ask  your  seedsman  to  send  you  one  packet  of  every  variety  of 
cockscomb  that  he  has.  Next  year  you  may  want  to  try  stocks  or  annual 
poppies,  or  something  else.     All  this  will  be  a  study  in  evolution. 

There  is  still  a  fourth  ideal — the  growing  for  gathering  or  "picking." 
If  you  want  many  flowers  for  house  decoration  and  to  give  away,  then  grow 
them  at  one  side  in  regular  rows  as  you  would  potatoes  or  sweet  corn.  Culti- 
vate them  by  horse-  or  wheel-hoe.     Harvest  them  in  the  same  spirit  that 


Zinnias— always  easy  to  grow  and  generous  of  color 


Annuals 


you  would  harvest  string  beans  or  tomatoes;  that  is  what  they  are  for. 
You  do  not  have  to  consider  the  "looks"  of  your  garden.  You  will  not  be 
afraid  to  pick  them.  The  old  stalks  will  remain,  as  the  stumps  of  cabbages, 
do.     When  you  have  harvested  an  armful  your  garden  is  not  despoiled. 

I  like  each  plant  in  its  season.  China  aster  is  a  fall  flower.  In  early 
summer  I  want  pansies  or  candytufts  and  other  early  or  quick  bloomers 
For  the  small  amateur 
garden,  greenhouses  and 
hotbeds  are  unneces- 
sary, and  they  are  usu- 
ally in  the  way.  There 
are  enough  kinds  of  an- 
nuals that  may  be  sown 
directly  in  the  open 
ground,  even  in  New 
York,  to  fill  any  garden. 
All  those  I  have  men- 
tioned are  such.  In 
general,  I  should  not 
try  to  secure  unusually 
early  effects  in  any  kind 
of  plant  by  starting  it 
extra  early.  I  should 
get  early  effects  with 
kinds  of  plants  that 
naturally  are  early. 
Let  everything  have 
its  season.  Do  not  try 
to  telescope  the  months. 

You  can  sow  the 
seeds  of  most  annuals 
even  in  ]\Iay  I  have 
sown  China  asters  in 
the  open  ground  in 
early  June  in  New  York 
State  and  have  had 
excellent     fall      bloom. 


H( 


to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


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Annuals 


there  is  this  danger,  for  these  are  nitrogen  gatherers,  and  the  addition  of 
nitrogenous  manures  makes  them  run  too  much  to  vine.  The  finer  and 
more  broken  down  the  manure  the  better.  Spade  it  in.  Mix  it  thoroughly 
with  the  soil.  If  the  soil  is  clay-like,  see  that  fine  manure  is  thoroughly 
mixed  with  the  surface  layer  to  prevent  "baking." 

Watering  is  an  exacting  labor,  and  yet  half  of  it  is  usually  unnecessary. 
The  reasons  why  it  is  unnecessary  are  two :  the  soil  is  so  shallowly  prepared 
that  the  roots  do  not  strike  deep  enough ;  we  waste  the  moisture  by  allowing 
the  soil  to  become  hard,  thereby  setting  up  capillary  connection  with  the 
atmosphere  and  letting  the  water  escape.  See  how  moist  the  soil  is  in  spring. 
Mulch  it  so  that  the  moisture  will  not  evaporate.  Mulch  it  with  a  garden 
rake  by  keeping  the  soil  loose  and  dry  on  top.  This  loose,  dry  soil  is  the 
mulch.  There  will  be  moisture  underneath.  Save  water  rather  than  add 
it.  Then  when  you  do  have  to  water  the  plants,  go  at  it  as  if  you  meant  it. 
Do  not  dribble  and  piddle.  Wet  the  soil  clear  through.  Wet  it  at  dusk  or  in 
cloudy  weather.  Before  the  hot  sun  strikes  it,  renew  your  mulch,  or  supply 
a  mulch  of  fine  litter.  As  many  plants  are  s])oiled  1>\^  si>rinklin,u:  as  by  drought. 
Bear  in  mind  that  watering  is  only  a 
special  practice;  the  general  prac- 
tice is  so  to  fit  and  maintain  the 
ground  that  the  plants  will  not 
need  watering. 

The  less  your  space  the  fewer 
the  kinds  you  should  plant.  Have 
enough  of  each  kind  to  be  worth 
the  while  and  the  effort.  It  is  as 
much  trouble  to  raise  one  plant 
as  a  dozen. 

It  is  usually  best  not  to  try  to 
make  formal  "designs"  with  an- 
nuals. Such  designs  are  special 
things,  anyway,  and  should  be  used 
sparingly,  and  be  made  only  by  per- 
sons who  are  skilled  in  such  work. 
A  poor  or  unsuccessful  design  is  the 
sorriest  failure  that  a  garden  can 
have.      Grow  the  plants  for  them-  j,p,„,,^  mom.ng-gior 


lo  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

selves — pinks  because  they  are  pinks,  alyssum  because  it  is  alyssum,  not 
because  they  may  form  a  part  of  some  impossible  harp  or  angel. 

This  brings  up  a  discussion  of  the  proper  place  to  put  the  annuals.  Do 
not  put  them  in  the  lawn:  you  want  grass  there,  and  grass  and  annuals  do 
not  thrive  well  together.  Supposing  that  you  grow  the  annuals  for  garden 
effect,  there  are  two  ways  of  disposing  them — to  grow  in  beds  or  in  borders. 
Sometimes  one  method  is  better  and  sometimes  the  other.  The  border 
method  is  the  more  informal,  and  therefore  the  simpler  and  easier,  and  its 
pictorial  effect  is  usually  greater,  but  in  some  places  there  are  no  boundary 
lines  that  can  be  used  for  borders.  Then  beds  may  be  used ;  but  make  the 
beds  so  large  and  fill  them  so  full  that  they  will  not  appear  to  be  mere  play- 
patches.  Long  beds  are  usually  best.'  Four  or  five  feet  wide  is  about  the 
limit  of  ease  in  working  in  them.  The  more  elaborate  the  shape  of  the  bed, 
the  more  time  you  will  consume  in  keeping  the  geometry  straight  and  the 
less  on  having  fun  with  the  plants.  Long  points  that  run  off  into  the  grass — 
as  the  points  of  a  star — are  particularly  worrisome,  for  the  grass-roots  lock 
hands  underneath  and  grab  the  food  and  moisture.  A  rectangular  shape  is 
best  if  you  are  intent  only  on  growing  flowers.  Of  course,  if  your  heart  is 
set  on  having  a  star  on  the  lawn,  you  should  have  it;  but  you  would  better 
fill  it  with  coloured  gravel. 

It  is  surprising  how  many  things  one  can  grow  in  an  old  fence.  The 
four-o'clocks  shown  on  page  17  illustrate  this  point.  Most  persons  owning 
this  place  would  think  that  they  had  no  room  for  flowers,  yet  there  the 
four-o'clocks  are,  and  they  take  up  no  room.  Not  all  annuals  will  thrive 
under  such  conditions  of  partial  neglect.  The  large-seeded,  quick-germinating, 
rapid-growing  kinds  will  do  best.  Sunflower,  sweet  pea,  morning-glory, 
Japanese  hop,  zinnia,  big  mangold  and  amaranths  are  some  of  the  kinds  that 
may  be  expected  to  hold  their  own.  If  the  effort  is  made  to  grow  plants  in 
such  places,  it  is  important  to  give  them  all  the  advantage  possible  early  m  the 
season,  so  that  they  will  get  well  ahead  of  grass  and  weeds.  Spade  up  the 
ground  all  you  can.  Add  a  little  quick-acting  fertiliser.  It  is  best  to  start 
the  plants  in  pots  or  small  boxes,  so  that  they  will  be  in  advance  of  the  weeds 
when  they  are  set  out. 

First  and  last,  I  have  grown  practically  every  annual  offered  in  the 
American  trade.  It  is  surprising  how  few  of  the  uncommon  or  little-known 
sorts  really  have  great  merit  for  general  purposes.  There  is  nothing  yet  to 
take  the  place  of  the  oldtime  groups,  such  as  amaranths,  zinnias,  calendulas, 


The    California   poppy— Esctisclioltzia    Californica 


Annuals 


13 


daturas,  balsams,  annual  pinks,  candytufts,  bachelor's-buttons,  wallflowers, 
gilias,  larkspurs,  petunias,  gaillardias,  snapdragons,  cockscombs,  lobelias, 
coreopsis  or  calliopsis,  California  poppies,  four-o"clocks,  sweet  sultans,  phloxes, 
mignonettes,  scabiosas,  dwarf  nasturtiums,  marigolds,  China  asters,  salpiglossis, 
nicotianas,  pansies,  portulacas,  castor  beans,  poppies,  sunflowers,  verbenas, 
stocks,  alyssums,  and  such  good  old  running  plants  as  scarlet  runners,  sweet 
peas,  convolvuluses,  ipomeas,  nasturtiums,  balloon  vines  and  cobeas.  Of 
the  annual  vines  of  recent  introduction,  the  Japanese  hop  has  at  once 
taken  a  prominent  place  for  the  covering  of  fences  and  arbors,  although 
it  has  no  floral  beauty  to  recommend  it. 

For  bold  mass-displays  of  colour  in  the  rear  of  the  grounds  or  along 
the  borders,  some  of 
the  coarser  species 
are  desirable.  My 
own  favourites  for 
such  use  are  sun- 
flower, castor  bean, 
and  striped  Japanese 
corn  for  the  back 
rows ;  zinnias  for 
bright  efl'ects  in  the 
scarlets  and  lilacs ; 
African  marigolds  for 
brilliant  yellows ;  nic- 
otianas for  whites. 
Unf ortun  a  t  e  1  y,  we 
have  no  robust- 
growing  annuals  with 
good  blues.  Some 
of  the  larkspurs  are 
perhaps  the  nearest 
approach  to  it. 

For  lower-grow- 
ing and  less  gross 
mas  s-displays  the 
following    are    good : 

CalllOrma  poppies  tor  Homed  poppy  (Glaucium  luteum).    Sometimes  grown  as  an  annual 


14  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

oranges  and  yellows;  sweet  sultans  for  purples,  whites  and  pale  yellows; 
petunias  for  purples,  violets  and  whites;  larkspurs  for  blues  and  violets; 
bachelor's-buttons  (or  cornflowers)  for  blues;  calliopsis  and  coreopsis  and 
calendulas  for  yellows ;  gaillardias  for  red-yellows ;  China  asters  for  many 
colors  except  3^ellow. 

For  still  less  robustness,  good  mass-displays  can  be  made  with  the 
following:  Alyssums  and  candytufts  for  whites;  phloxes  for  whites  and 
various  pinks  and  reds;  lobelias  and  browallias  for  blues;  pinks  for  whites 
and  various  shades  of  pink;  stocks  for  whites  and  reds  and  dull  blues; 
wallflowers  for  brown-yellows ;  verbenas  for  many  colours. 

Some  of  the  common  annuals  do  not  lend  themselves  well  to  mass- 
displays.  They  are  of  interest  because  of  peculiar  foliage,  odd  or  unusual 
flowers,  special  uses,  and  the  like.  Of  such  are  portulacas  (for  hot,  sunny 
places),  balsams,  cockscombs,  poppies  (the  blooming  period  is  short),  pansies, 
dwarf  convolvuluses  and  dwarf  nasturtiums,  snapdragons,  amaranths, 
four-o'clocks,  mignonettes,  alonsoas,  schizanthus,  nolanas,  argemone,  horned 
poppy,  and  many  others. 

I  should  never  consider  a  garden  of  pleasant  annual  flowers  to  be  complete 
that  did  not  contain  some  of  the  "everlastings,"  or  immortelles.  These 
"paper  flowers"  are  always  interesting  to  children.  1  do  not  care  for  them 
for  the  making  of  "dry  bouquets,"  but  for  their  interest  as  a  part  of 
a  garden.  The  colours  are  bright,  the  blooms  hold  long  on  the  plant, 
and  most  of  the  kinds  are  very  easy  to  grow.  My  favourite  groups 
ars  the  different  kinds  of  xeranthemums  and  helichrysums.  The  gom- 
phrenas,  with  clover-like  heads  (sometimes  known  as  bachelor's-buttons), 
are  good  old  favourites.     Rhodanthes  and  ammobiums  are  also  good. 

Among  the  ornamental  annual  grasses,  I  have  had  most  satisfaction 
w4th  the  brizas,  coix  or  Job's  tears,  and  some  of  the  species  of  agrostis 
and  eragrostis. 

Some  of  the  perennials  and  biennials  can  be  treated  as  annuals  if  they 
are  started  very  early  indoors.  A  number  of  the  very  late-flowering  annuals 
should  also  be  started  indoors  for  best  success  in  the  northern  States,  as,  for 
example,  the  moonflowers  and  the  tall-growing  kinds  of  cosmos. 

If  flowers  of  any  annual  are  wanted  extra  early,  the  seeds  should  be 
started  indoors.  It  is  not  necessary  to  have  a  greenhouse  for  this  purpose, 
although  best  results  are  to  be  expected  with  such  a  building.  The  seeds 
may  be  sown  m  boxes,  and  these  boxes  then  placed  in  a  sheltered  position 


Annuals 


on  the  warm  side  of  a  building.  At  night  they  can  be  covered  with  boards 
or  matting.  In  very  cold  "spells"  the  boxes  should  be  brought  inside.  In 
this  simple  way  seeds  may 
often  be  started  one  to  three 
weeks  ahead  of  the  time 
when  they  can  be  sown  in 
the  open  garden.  Moreover, 
the  plants  are  likely  to  re- 
ceive better  care  in  these 
boxes,  and  therefore  to  grow 
more  rapidly.  Of  course,  if 
still  earlier  results  are  de- 
sired, the  seeds  should  be 
sown  in  the  kitchen,  hotbed, 
coldframe,  or  in  a  green- 
house if  accessible. 

In  starting  plants  ahead 
of  the  season,  be  careful  not 
to  use  too  deep  boxes.  The 
gardener's  "flat"  may  be 
taken  as  a  suggestion .  Three 
inches  of  earth  is  sufficient, 
and  in  some  cases  (as  when 
the  plants  are  started  late) 
half  this  depth  is  enough. 

Of  late  years  there  has 
been  a  strong  movement  to 
introduce  the  hardy  peren- 
nials into  general  cultiva- 
tion. This  is  certainly  to 
be  encouraged  everywhere, 
since  it  adds  a  feeling  of 
permanency  and  purpose- 
fulness  that  is  needed  in 
American  gardens.  Yet  I 
should  be  sorry  if  this  movement  were  to  obscure  the  importance 
of  the  annuals.     We   need   this  colour  and  variety. 


Mexican    popp> — Argemone    Mexicans 


i6  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

How  TO  Get  Early  Flowers 
By  Hattie  L.  Kxight 

Several  3-ears  ago  I  found  myself  too  much  of  an  invalid  to  be  out  in 
the  garden  sowing  seeds,  and  with  no  one  at  my  service  who,  in  my  opinion, 
could  be  trusted  to  do  it  for  me.  A  summer  without  flowers  w^as  too  dreary 
a  prospect  to  be  contemplated.  This  was  long  before  I  had  learned  the 
value  of  hardy  perennials,  and  depended  almost  wholly  upon  annuals  for 
flowers.  Necessity  thus  set  me  to  inventing,  and  I  had  my  garden  of 
flowers  after  all. 

I  secured  a  half-dozen  wooden  boxes  about  the  size  of  common  soap- 
boxes and  had  them  sawed  so  that  they  were  each  four  inches  deep.  These 
boxes  were  so  small  that  when  filled  with  soil  they  could  be  easily  lifted 
about.  I  had  the  boxes  filled  with  soil  from  the  garden ;  and  now  imagine 
my  comfort  as  I  sat  at  a  table  sowing  my  seeds  !  There  were  no  cramped 
limbs  and  aching  back,  as  was  usually  the  case  when  I  had  sowed  my 
seeds  in  the  seed-bed. 

I  find  by  consulting  my  "notes"  of  that  year  that  I  sowed  the  seeds 
April  9th.  They  came  up  quickly  and  far  more  satisfactorily  than  seeds 
sown  in  the  garden.  But  to  say  that  this  first  attempt  to  grow  seedlings  of 
annuals  in  the  house  was  a  perfect  success  would  not  be  exact  truth.  Never- 
theless, I  had  that  year  as  fine  a  display  of  annuals  as  I  ever  had  when  the 
seeds  were  sown  in  the  garden,  in  spite  of  the  fact  that  the  weather  did  not 
get  warm  enough  for  it  to  be  prudent  for  an  invalid  to  sit  on  the  ground  to 
transplant  them  until  between  June  9th  and  June  i6th.  Although  this 
late  transplanting  was  exceedingly  harmful  to  their  growth,  they  began  to 
come  into  bloom  the  first  of  July. 

I  was  so  well  satisfied  with  the  experiment  that  I  have  repeated  it  every 
year  since.  The  method  has  merits  sufficient  to  recommend  it  to  any  one 
who  does  not  have  a  hotbed  to  grow  seedlings  in.  It  is  so  late  when  seeds 
can  be  sown  in  the  garden  up  here  in  Alaine  that  by  the  time  annuals  grown 
in  this  way  come  into  full  bloom  they  are  killed  by  frosts. 

Instead  of  giving  the  details  of  my  first  experiment,  I  will  give  my 
method  of  later  years,  which  will  be  of  more  value  from  having  been 
perfected  through  past  mistakes.  I  have  studied  to  avoid  all  unnecessary 
work,  and  a  plant-table  lined  with  zinc  has  proved  a  great  saving  of  labour^ 


Annuals 


19 


as  the  seeds  and  seedlings  may  be  watered  without  being  carried  to  the  sink 
and  without  any  drip  upon  the  floor.  A  plant-table  four  feet  long  and  two 
and  one-half  feet  wide  would  afford  sufficient  capacity  for  growing  seedlings 
enough  to  fill  two  hundred  square  feet  of  beds.  Tables  or  rough  boxes  are 
rather  unsightly  objects,  and  I  keep  them  in  the  kitchen  until  the  weather 
will  permit  keeping  them  in  a  more  out-of-the-wav  place. 

I  find  that  the  time  the  seeds  should  be  sown  depends  upon  the  time  the 
seedlings  can  be  transplanted  to  the  garden.  If  one's  health  will  permit  the 
transplanting  of  seedlings  as  early  as  it  would  be  warm  enough  for  them, 
about  April  6th  would  be  the  right  time  for  sowing  in  New  England; 
an  earlier  date  would  not  be  at  all  advisable.  My  experience  has  shown  me 
that  five  weeks  from  the  time  of  sowing  the  seeds  is  as  long  as  the  seedlings 
can  be  kept  in  the  boxes  without  injury;  the  roots  fill  the  soil,  their  growth 
is  stopped  and  they  become  stunted, 
never  making  the  fine  plants  they 
would  had  they  been  transplanted 
at  the  proper  time. 

I  use  soil  just  as  it  is  taken 
from  the  garden,  as  the  addition 
of  fertiliser  causes  an  unhealthy 
growth.  I  aim  for  a  slow,  sturdy 
growth.  The  soil  is  heated  very 
hot  in  the  oven  to  kill  the  weed 
seeds.  The  first  year  I  failed  to  do 
this,  and  found  weed-pulling  made  too  much  of  an  upheaval  among  seeds 
and  tiny  plants.  I  sow  the  seeds  in  rows  an  inch  and  a  half  apart,  and 
three-fourths  of  an  inch  apart  in  the  row  to  allow  for  some  of  the  seeds 
failing  to  germinate.  When  I  am  sure  that  the  last  seed  that  will  grow  has 
made  its  appearance  above  ground,  I  thin  the  seedlings  out  to  an  inch  and 
a  half  in  the  row.  I  find  it  necessary  to  allow  this  space,  as  the  plants 
soon  become  crowded  with  less,  and  thinning  them  out  then  will  disturb  the 
roots  of  those  which  are  to  remain. 

When  the  seeds  are  sown  I  place  the  table  in  a  sunny  window  and  give 
the  earth  the  treatment  required  as  regards  light  and  sunshine,  that  it 
may  be  ready  for  them  the  moment  they  break  through  the  earth.  I  keep 
them  as  close  to  the  glass  as  possible,  and  roll  the  shades  high.  The  first 
year  I  thought  this  unimportant  when  the  seeds  were  coming  up,  and  before 


A   sweet   pea   garden   near   Springfield,   Mas 


20  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

I  knew  it  some  of  them  were  shooting  up  in  the  air  more  than  an  inch,  though 
still  encased  in  the  seed-shells,  and  by  the  time  the  seed-lobes  were  freed 
they  were  carried  an  inch  and  a  half  high.  Since  then  I  give  all  the  light 
and  sunshine  possible  from  the  moment  I  discover  the  first  seed  breaking 
the  soil,  and  thus  keep  the  seed-lobes  as  close  to  the  soil  as  possible.  An 
abundance  of  sunshine  and  strong  light  is  a  necessity,  for  without  these  the 
seedlings  become  long-drawn  and  leggy  and  have  no  strength  to  stand  upright. 
In  a  mild  spring  I  find  it  advisable  to  remove  the  seedlings  to  a  room 
where  there  is  no  artificial  heat,  as  the  two  greatest  drawbacks  to  growing 
annuals  in  the  house  are  excessive  heat  and  shade.  I  soon  begin  to  give 
them  air  during  the  warmest  part  of  the  day  by  opening  the  windows  or 
setting  them  in  an  open  door  where  the  sun  will  shine  upon  them.  After 
a  short  time  I  set  them  on  a  sunny  piazza — any  sheltered  place  would  do — ■ 
during  the  middle  of  the  day,  then  soon  put  them  out  in  the  morning,  taking 
them  in  at  night.  As  soon  as  all  danger  of  freezing  is  past  I  let  them  rem.ain 
out  day  and  night,  only  taking  them  m  from  beating  rain.  The  plants  are 
not  properly  hardened  off  ready  for  transplanting  until  they  have  had  full 
exposure  to  wind  and  sun ;  and  they  should  be  set  by  the  beds  where  they 
are  to  be  planted  out  a  few  days  previous  to  taking  them  out  of  the  boxes. 
In  starting  any  kind  of  plants  from  seed  indoors  in  early  spring  it  is 
important  to  have  the  seed-boxes  in  a  handy  place  where  one  cannot  help 
seeing  them  many  times  a  day.  If  a  seed-box  is  put  out  doors  on  the  porch, 
the  soil  will  dry  out  before  you  realise  it  and  the  tender  seedlings  will  be 
checked  or  ruined.  It  is  very  fascinating  to  watch  the  growth  of  seedlings. 
In  growing  annual  flowers  I  always  get  the  best  results  from  sowing 
seeds  in  boxes  indoors  about  fifty  days  before  the  soil  outside  is  in  perfect 
condition,  and  for  this  purpose  I  use  a  plant-table, 
which  is  a  great  convenience.  It  is  a  home-made 
aftair  which  any  one  can  duplicate  at  a  small  expense 
and  which  will  soon  prove  to  be  an  indispensable 
convenience.  Plants  can  be  watered  on  such  a  table 
with  no  drip  upon  the  carpet,  and  if  sand  is  filled 
m  around  the  pots  and  kept  moist  it  will  be  found 
A  plant-table  Tor  holding  boxes  an  exccllcnt  Way  of  Supplying  that  moisture  to  the 
of  seedlings  ^-^  wliich  plauts  must  have  in   order  to   flourish. 

The  most  valuable  as  well  as  essential  feature    of    the    plant-table    is    a 
zinc-lined  false  top.     Almost  any  stout   table   of   suitable   size  will  do  as 


Annuals  21 

a  basis,  but   in   this  case   an    old-fashioned    "lamp  stand"  was  used   that 
we    happened  to  have  in   the  attic. 

My  husband,  who  makes  no  pretense  to  being  a  carpenter,  fitted  a 
large  top  to  this  stand  which  can  be  removed  by  simply  lifting  it  up.  For 
material  he  used  what  he  could  pick  up  about  the  place,  which  happened 
to  be  a  spruce  board  an  inch  thick  and  a  basswood  board  one-half  inch  thick. 
He  sawed  the  spruce  board  into  pieces  three  feet  four  and  a  half  inches  long. 
These  he  placed  side  by  side  with  the  planed  side  up,  and  they  measured,, 
as  thus  placed  together,  two  feet  and  one-half  inch  across;  then  he- 
secured  them  in  place  by  nailing  a  cleat  half  an 
inch  thick  and  one  foot  nine  inches  long  and  two 
inches  wide  at  each  end.  These  cleats  were 
nailed  at  equal  distances  from  the  ends  and  two 
feet  and  eight  inches  apart,  measuring  from  the 
inner  side  of  each  cleat.  The  cleats  were  nailed 
on  the  side  to  be  placed  down  upon  the  top  of  ''"''"  "''"  °'  ''"'  '"p-  ^'^°*''"«  ^'"'^ 
the  stand,  and  being  put  the  same  distance  apart  as  the  toj)  of  the 
^taiM  was  long,  the  top  of  the  stand  would  thus  fit  in  closely  between 
theniXdving  no  chance  for  the  false  top  to  move  back  and  forth 
lengthwise.  A  narrow  cleat  about  four  inches  long  was  nailed  at  each 
side  of  the  false  top  the  same  distance  apart  as  the  real  top  of  the  stand 
was  wide,  and  thus  the  false  top  was  held  from  moving  about  either  way. 
These  cleats  at  the  ends  and  sides  of  the  false  top  were  placed  close  enough 
together  so  that,  when  it  was  placed  in  position,  it  was  neces- 
sary to  exert  a  little  strength  in  order  to  force  it  completely- 
down  upon  the  top  of  the  stand,  and  it  was  thus  held 
so  firmly  in  position  that  it  could  never  become  displaced. 
Around  the  edge  of  the  false  top  strips  of  the  half-inch  basswood  three 
inches  wide  were  nailed.  These  strips  were  placed  below  the  inch  board  of 
the  false  top  one-half  inch,  to  hide  from  view  the  top  of  the  stand.  This 
made  the  false  top  boxlike,  an  inch  and  a  half  deep  measuring  from  the 
mside.  The  bottom  and  sides  of  this  were  lined  with  zinc,  which  we  did  our- 
selves, the  zinc  costing  from  forty  to  sixty  cents.  It  was  somewhat  difficult 
to  fold  the  zinc  at  the  corners  without  breaking  it,  as  was  necessary  to- 
make  it  water-tight.  An  easier  way,  and  one  that  would  have  made  nicer 
work,  would  have  been  to  cut  an  inch  and  a  half  square  from  each 
corner,  and  then  solder   the   edges    together   to   make    the   corners  tight. 


22  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

The    zinc    was  tacked    along  the    edge  at  the  top    of    the    basswood    sides 
with  large  tacks. 

The  stand  and  the  basswood  sides  of  the  false  top  were  treated  with 
■a  coat  of  walnut  stain  and  varnish,  and  as  the  legs  and  rod  of  the 
stand  were  quite  prettily  turned,  my  plant-table  made  a  very  fair  appear- 
ance in  the  sitting-room. 


Madia  elegans,  yellow,  ttith  a  brown  eye.     The  flowers  close  in  the  sunshine,  but  open  in  the  morning  and  evening 


CHAPTER   II.     PERENNIALS 

I.     Some  Lessons  from  the  Pan-American  Exposition 

By   L.    H.    Bailey 

'N   HERB  is  a  plant  that  dies  to  the  ground  in  winter,  and  a 
border  is  a  strip  of    planting   skirting  the  boundaries  of  a 
place  or  lying  along  the  walks  or  dri\-es.     We  grow    herbs 
^_^  because  we  like  them.     We    make   borders  of  them  because 

_  ^^^^^  they  look  better  in  such  places,  are  more  easily  cared 
for,  and  are  not  under  foot.  A  pigweed  in  the  middle  of  the  lawn  is 
lonesome  and  a  nuisance ;  or  if  we  pull  it  up  we  have  nothing  to  put 
in  the  hole.  A  pigweed  in  the  border  is  happy  and  attractive;  or  if  we  do 
not  like  it  and  pull  it  up,  there  are  other  plants  of  its  height  and  size  to  take 
its  place.  Anybody  can  make  a  border.  It  is  a  simple  matter.  But  just 
because  it  is  so  simple  and  easy,  there  are  few  men  who  make  attractive 
ones.  Some  of  the  best  that  we  have  had  the  privilege  of  seeing  were  on 
the  Pan-American  grounds.  Probably  few  of  the  visitors  to  the  exposition 
made  more  than  a  casual  note  of  the  herbaceous  planting  at  the  south  end 
of  the  grounds,  or  thought  of  the  care  that  had  been  expended  there.  Twenty 
acres  were  devoted  to  these  beds.  There  were  fif  ly  exhibitors  and  more  than 
two  hundred  plats.  The  difficulties  are  great  in  such  plantings  as  these.  The 
land  is  newly  prepared.  The  time  is  short.  There  are  few  plants  of  a  great 
many  kinds.  Each  plant  is  to  be  an  exhibit,  and  must  therefore  have 
opportunity  to  display  itself.  Exhibition  planting  is  difficult  to  manage 
in  an  artistic  way.  If  each  plant  is  isolated,  the  mass-effect  is  lost  and 
the  plantation  is  Hkely  to  be  a  mere  nursery. 

The  two  pictures  shown  on  pages  27  and  31  illustrate  bold  and  artistic 
effects  produced  with  exhibition  plants,  and  there  were  many  other  examples 
as  good  as  these  on  the  exposition  grounds.  These  plantings  were  the  work 
of  William  Scott,  Superintendent  of  Floriculture,  and  a  florist  of  Buffalo. 
Mr.  Scott  has  been  known  chiefly  as  a  florist.  We  shall  now  think  of  him 
also  as  a  gardener — in  the  broader  sense — and  as  an  artist  'n  dealing  with 
plants      He  had  the  great  advantage  of  knowing  how  to  grow  the  things. 

25 


26  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

We  often  seem  to  lose  sight  of  the  importance  of  such  knowledge.  It  is 
knowledge  that  it  is  troublesome  not  to  hstxe. 

Fourteen  months  before  these  things  were  planted  the  land  had  been 
only  roughly  graded.  New  soil  had  to  be  carted  on,  the  final  grading  and 
levelling  done,  and  the  sod  established.  The  home-maker,  with  good  soil 
and  estabhshed  lawn,  should  be  able  to  do  at  least  as  weh. 

It  is  well  to  plan  in  the  fall  for  the  spring  planting.  Things  always 
go  slower  than  we  expect.  Spring  will  soon  be  here.  If  the  ground  is  not 
yet  frozen  the  earth  can  be  spaded  or  plowed.  Let  it  lie  loose  and  open: 
the  frost  will  pulverise  it.  Weathering  is  sometimes  an  efficient  means 
of  tilling.  Unless  the  land  is  already  rich,  and  contains  much  vegetable 
matter  or  humus,  it  is  well  to  turn  under  manure  when  you  prepare  the  land 
this  winter.  This  manure  may  be  very  useful  in  preventing  hard  clay  soils 
from  cementing  by  the  action  of  frost  and  rain  as  well  as  in  affording  plant- 
food.  Even  in  some  of  the  northern  States  hardy  bushes  may  be  planted 
in  December,  but  it  is  usuaUy  better  to  wait  until  spring.  Large  specimens 
are  often  moved  in  the  dead  of  winter  because  heavy  balls  of  earth  can  be 
taken  with  them.  Read  the  catalogues,  and  be  ready  to  order  your  plants 
before  the  spring  begins. 


II.     How  TO  ]\Iake  a  Border 
By    F.    W.   Barclay 

Plant  thickly  enough  to  form  eventually  a  mass  of  foliage  sufficiently 
dense  to  completely  hide  the  ground.  Scattered  plants  about  a  newly  raked 
bed  may  look  neat,  but  so  would  perfect  rows  of  painted  stakes. 
Neatness  can  be  more  perfectly  attained  by  the  close  grouping  of  plants 
of  similar  foliage.  Too  great  a  mixture  of  leaf -forms  and  colours  often 
gives  a  tangled  and  untidy  effect.  The  aim  is  the  happy  medium  between 
the  sameness  of  a  too  large  group  of  one  species  and  the  careless  mixture 
of  many  species.  Make  the  groups  decided  enough  to  be  called  groups  in 
comparison  with  the  area  of  the  planting,  but  let  them  be  irregular  and  blend 
into  the  surrounding  groupings  with  pleas  ng  contrasts. 

A  very  effective  way  of  planting,  especially  where  the  border  is  long, 
is  to  use  a  large  quantity  of  a  few  kinds  of  plants  which  follow  each  other  in 
bloom  through  the  season,  and  to  plant  the  whole  border  in  small  groups, 


----a     %.%1I 


^v'.//-;  ■  .  ^^^a«»w 


Perennials 


29 


so  that  at  one  time  the  entire  border  appears  attractive  with  flowers  of  one 
kind  and  of  one  or  perhaps  two  colours,  to  be  followed  by  a  flower  of  another 
colour.  This  method  changes  the  colour  eftect  of  the  whole  border  almost 
every  week,  but  it  of  course  cannot  give  the  eftect  of  a  solid  mass  of  flowers, 
as  would  be  the  case  if  the  same  list  were  planted,  each  kind  in  a  plot  by  itself. 
A  list  for  this  purpose  to  follow  each  other  quite  closely  through  the  summer 
might  be:  Yellow  daffodils,  purple  German  iris,  rose  and  white  peonies, 
scarlet  Oriental  poppies,  Japanese  ins  (white,  with  pencilHngs  of  colour), 
yellow  day-lilies,  monardas  (red),  phlox  (white,  or  nearly  so),  rudbeckias 
(yellow),  purple  New  England 
aster,  and  hardy  pompon 
chrysanthemum  (pink  and 
white).  If  a  larger  list,  with 
plants  of  several  colours  ap- 
pearing at  the  same  season  is 
used,  the  eftect  is  entirely  dif- 
ferent, and  care  will  be  needed 
to  obtain  the  more  pleasing 
contrasts  of  colour. 

The  preparation  of  the 
beds  for  perennials  should  be 
very  thorough,  especially  as 
the  soil  cannot  be  deeply  dug 
or  greatly  enriched  afterward. 
If  the  subsoil  does  not  provide 
sufficient  drainage  to  prevent 
water  staying  on  the  surface 
of  the  ground  or  the  soil  from  becoming  excessively  wet  during  the 
rainier  seasons,  then  under-drainage  to  a  depth  of  at  least  two  and  a 
half  feet  will  be  necessary. 

A  first-class  perennial  bed,  suited  to  sustain  a  large  variety  of  plants 
in  vigorous  growth,  should  have  the  ground  made  loose  to  a  depth  of  two 
feet.  It  would  be  best  to  have  the  entire  two  feet  made  up  of  surface  soil, 
but  it  is  not  necessary.  A  satisfactory  method  is  to  throw  oft"  the  surface 
soil  and  then  dig  over  the  subsoil  and  mix  with  it  a  fair  amount  of  manure, 
bone  and  wood  ashes.  If  the  soil  is  clayey  or  sour  there  is  nothing  better 
than  screened  coal  ashes  to  make  its  condition  satisfactory.     An  application 


wa 

..._■ 

imm- 

^^'^V,.     -^:-.§^^-    -X  ^,           1/ 

iperial,  an  old-time  garden  favourin 
with  a  rush  in  early  spring 


,'hich  comes  up 


30 


H( 


to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


two  inches  deep  to  a  foot  of  soil  will  loosen  a  stiff  clay,  and  it  will  scay  loose. 
Sand  will  answer  to  the  same  end,  but  not  as  well. 

The  top  soil  should,  if  possible,  be  a  good  loam,  and  be  at  least  one  foot 
deep.  It  should  be  well  enriched  with  well-rotted  manure,  bone  and  wood 
ashes,  or  other  mineral  fertilisers,  and  put  in  a  finely  pulverised  condition. 
The  growth  of  vegetation  cannot  be  vigorous  without  a  deep,  rich,  well- 
drained  soil.  Keep  the  surface  soil  rich,  and  do  not  get  part  of  the  subsoil 
mixed  with  it,  as  many  of    the  garden  plants  are  shahow-rooted  and  need 


'^m^ 


.^-v 


-^^...^ 

_, ' 

'^^'^' 

■.  W';-".- 

r    ."i" 

^^  *'. 

^^^'  ■ . 

^LS^ 

:-'  -^#W..>    *^•■• 

'^  ^;  ■     ' 

'm^^ 

iiw'%^*'^'" 

"b^'-., 

m. 

.  .Mm 

"  m 

ipanion   crops 


lilies  and   Liliuni   superhum 


a  very  mellow  soil;  and  further,  a  good  friable  surface  is  needed  to  allow 
the  growth  of  annuals  and  small  plants,  especially  those  raised  from  seed. 
A  good  depth  of  soil  gives  a  lower  feeding-room  for  the  strong-rooted  plants, 
and  allows  the  growth  of  more  shallow-rooted  plants  among  them,  with 
far  better  results  than  could  possibly  be  obtained  on  a  thin  soil. 

When  purchasing  plants  for  a  border,  take  pains  to  obtain  good,  healthy 
stock,  and  see  that  it  is  carefuHy  planted  as  soon  as  received.  The  best 
season  to  transplant    any  particular  plant  is  while  it  is  yet  dormant  and 


Perennials 


33 


just  before  its  roots  start  to  grow.  Plants  in  general,  and  early  flowering 
ones  in  particular,  make  considerable  root  growth  in  the  fall.  A  good  rule 
to  follow  is :  Plant  in  the  early  fall  those  species  that  blossom  before  July, 
and  in  the  spring  those  that  bloom  later  in  the  year. 

If  it  seems  best  to  make  the  planting  all  at  one  time,  then  early  fall 
will  perhaps  be  the  best  season  for  the  greatest  number.  Fall  planting 
should  be  early,  so  that  the  plants  can  become  estabhshed  in  the  soil 
before  freezing  weather.  It  is  of  course  quite  possible  to  move  plants 
at  any  season,  but  more  care  must  be  used. 

A  well-drained,  deep  soil  under  the  plants  is  the  first  and  best  protection. 
Too  much  water  in  the  soil  and  too  weak  a  root  system,  with  the  alternate 
freezing  and  thawing, 
are  the  main  reasons 
for  the  winter-killing  of 
otherwise  hardy  plants. 
If  the  beds  are  given  a 
dressing  of  short 
manure  in  the  fall,  just 
sufficient  to  cover  the 
earth  without  smother- 
ing the  crowns  of  the 
plants,  it  will  prevent 
the  too  quick  freezing 
and  thawing. 

Plants  that  are 
really  tender  to  cold 
must  be  mulched  to 
keep  the  frost  from  the 
roots.  This  can  be 
accomplished  with  any 
material,  such  as  straw, 
leaves,  etc.,  that  is  open 
enough  to  form  interior 
air  spaces  and  so  be  a 
poor  conductor  of  cold. 
It  is  well  to  place  this 
material  in  heaps  over  s,,,,i„g  3,,,,  „,  Dodeca.heon 


34 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


the  crowns  of  the  plants  so  as  to  at  least  partly  shed  the  rain.  The  soil 
must  be  extremely  dry  to  mjure  an  established  dormant  plant,  but 
it  can  easily  be  too  wet. 

When,  after  a  few  years,  the  border  becomes  too  thick  or  the  clumps 


An  effective  border-planiing  against  an  office  building 

too  large  to  give  satisfactory  flowers,  some  removal  of  plants  and  division 
of  roots  will  be  necessary.  In  general,  do  not  separate  the  clumps  until 
they  show  very  plainly  that  they  need  it.  The  best  season  to  divide  any 
plant  is  the  same  as  the  best  time  to  plant  it,  which  is  just  before  its  roots 
start  to  grow. 

It  may  sometimes  be  best  to  water  the  border  during  severe  drought. 
Do  it  this  way,  or  do  not  do  it  at  all:  Give  to  each  square  foot  of  the  bed  a 
two-inch  covering  of  ivater  as  fast  as  the  soil  ivill  take  it  up.  The  contmual 
application  of  a  little  water  not  only  hinders  the  rise  of  water  from  the 
sub-soil,  but  tends  to  bring  the  roots  to  the  moister  surface,  and  so  not  only 
crowds  them  into  a  smaller  feeding  space,  but  makes  the  plants  less  able 
to  endure  the  next  drought,  and  less  hardy  for  the  winter. 


The  tulip-poppy  (Hunnemannia),  a  Mexican  plant  allied  to  the  California  poppy 


7'v 


36  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


III.     Hardy  Perennials  from  Seed 
By   Mrs.    Hattie   L.    Knight 

Two  3-ears  ago,  in  the  spring,  I  had  a  plot  of  ground  running  parallel 
with  a  fence  plowed  for  a  hardy  border.  It  was  dressed  with  barnyard 
manure,  and  harrowed  and  worked  occasionally,  so  that  last  summer  the 
ground  was  in  excellent  condition  to  receiYC  the  plants.  I  knew  that  to 
fill  any  border  with  such  plants  as  I  desired  would  cost  seven  or  eight 
dollars  (since  divided  plants  from  the  nursery  cost  from  fifteen  to  twenty- 
five  cents  each),  while  I  found  by  consulting  the  catalogue  that  I  could 
procure  a  packet  of  seeds  of  nearly  all  the  sorts  I  most  wanted  for  less 
than  a  dollar,  including  some  good  novelties. 

I  had  grown  greenhouse  plants  from  seed,  and  knew  that  hardy  peren- 
nials would  be  less  difficult.  So  I  procured  the  seed  by  May  24th,  after 
the  more  urgent  work  in  the  garden  had  been  done,  and  sowed  them,  in 
shallow  boxes,  in  rows  an  inch  and  a  half  apart  and  the  same  distance  apart 
in  the  row,  dropping  them  in  singly.  They  were  covered  with  soil  to  a  depth 
of  twice  their  diameter,  and  pressed  down  firmly.  The  top  of  the  soil  was 
moistened  by  applying  the  water  with  a  whiskbroom;  after  this  the  soil 
was  wet  thoroughly  two  or  three  times  in  the  same  way,  until  it  settled,  and 
then  the  water  was  turned  on  carefully  from  a  dipper. 

The  boxes  were  on  a  sunny  piazza,  and  the  soil  was  carefully  watched 
that  it  might  not  become  more  than  slightly  dry.  The  seeds  germinated 
well ;  none  of  the  sorts  failed  to  grow,  with  the  solitary  exception  of  a  packet 
of  platycodon,  out  of  which  one-third  of  the  seeds  failed ;  but,  as  it  was,  I 
had  more  plants  than  were  needed.  The  seeds  of  a  kind  did  not  all  appear 
together,  some  making  their  appearance  ten  days  or  more  after  the  first 
ones  broke  the  soil.  The  only  care  given  the  seedlings  was  to  keep  them 
from  becoming  excessively  dry  and  to  avoid  applying  water  so  freely  as  to 
keep  the  soil  sodden. 

The  young  plants  grew  vigorously,  and  when  they  became  crowded 
were  transplanted  to  temporary  beds  in  the  garden,  which  had  been  previously 
devoted  to  annuals,  as  these  beds  were  more  suitable  than  newly  spaded 
greensward,  being  light  and  mellow,  yet  only  moderately  rich.  The  plants 
were  set  about  eight  inches  apart,  so  that  they  would  have  sufficient  room  until 
they  were  to  be  permanently  planted  in  September. 


Double    hollyhocks    in   a    border   of   perenr 
The  hollyhock  is  a  biennial,  but  it  is  usually  treated  as  a  perennial,  as  it  renews  itself  regularly  from  seed  with  a  minimum  of  care 


Perennials  3^ 

The  experiment  was  so  satisfactory  that  I  do  not  hesitate  to  recommend 
it.  Better  plants  can  be  secured  with  but  little  work,  for  only  the  largest 
and  most  vigorous  plants  will  furnish  the  required  number.  This  alone, 
if  the  saving  of  money  is  not  considered,  would  recommend  the  plan,  except 
when  one  is  bent  upon  having  a  particular  variety  of  phlox,  iris 
or  peony,  or  other  species  having  many  named  varieties.  Surplus  plants 
are  available  for  exchange  among  one's  neighbours,  or  for  sale  if  one 
is  so  inclined. 

It  so  happened  that  the  year  I  speak  of  I  had  old  plants  of  iris,  peony, 
phlox,  ranunculus  and  bleeding  heart,  all  of  which  I  was  able  to  propagate 
by  dividing  the  clumps.  I  therefore  bought  only  seven  kinds  of  seeds: 
forget-me-nots,  coreopsis,  hibiscus,  platycodon,  ipomopsis,  hardy  carnation, 
and  one  other  kind,  the  name  of  which  I  have  forgotten.  However,  some 
of  the  best  seed  catalogues  give  a  long  list  of  kinds  that  are  easily  raised 
from  seed,  and  some  catalogues  indicate  the  kinds  which  will  bloom  the 
first  year  from  seed. 

IV.     Our  Hardy  Flowers 

By  Alice   M.  Rathbone 

Roses,  lilies,  daffydowndillies,  and  all  the  rest  of  the  loved  company 
of  old-fashioned  flowers,  we  count  as  our  very  good  friends.  Distinguished 
friends,  too,  are  these  of  the  hardy  border,  tracing  their  ancestry  far  into 
the  misty  past,  and  they  are  cultured  to  a  degree.  We  find  them  fascinating 
from  the  time  of  the  early  spring  greetings  to  the  autumn  farewells,  when 
the  brave  dears  are  made  ready  with  snug  coverings  for  their  long  rest. 
What  a  pretty  and  comforting  fancy  about  underground  plant-life  in  winter 
is  this  of  George  Herbert's: 

"Flowers  depart  to  see  their  Mother- root  when  they  have  blown, 
Where  they  together,  alle  the  hard  weather, 
Dead  to  the  world,  keep  house  alone." 

With  the  coming  of  March  we  begin  to  look  eagerly  for  the  snowdrop 
heralds  to  announce  the  approach  of  the  procession.  Stout  of  heart  must 
be  these  dehcate  little  heralds,  that  they  should  dare  to  "take  the  winds 
of  March  with  beauty,"  like  Shakespeare's  stronger  daffodils.  Perhaps 
the  remembered  warmth  of  former  welcomes  helps  them  on. 


40  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

The  pleasure  of  one  arrival  is  followed  closely  by  another,  until  all  the 
company,  whose  motto  is  "Perennial  Friendship,"  has  assembled,  and  the 
full  delights  of  the  season  are  at  hand. 

Arabis  and  Alyssum  saxatilc  soon  spread  upon  the  ground  their  rugs 
of  white  and  gold.  The  bulbs,  having  made  preparations  through  the 
winter,  are  able  to  bring  forward  at  short  notice  their  delightfully  fresh 
and  joyous  show  of  golden-chaliced  crocuses,  sweet  hyacinths,  blue  scillas, 
jonquils,  and  other  gladsome,  springtime  flowers  of  soft  and  tender  hues ;  but 
when  the  tulips,  bold  and  gay,  are  ready,  then  is  the  garden  quite  given  over 
to  a  revel  of  colour.  They  hold  up  proudly  their  oriental  goblets  of  richest 
hues,  with  a  certain  cavalier-like  air  doubtless  acc^uired  during  their  adven- 
tures in  Holland,  when  they  so  nearly  succeeded  in  taking  that  country 
from  the  Dutch. 

The  flash  of  the  tulip  display  being  over,  gentle  Iris  comes  with  her 
messages  from  the  gods  to  men,  surrounded,  while  on  earth,  by  the  green 
lances  of  her  guards.  Iris  certainly  has  most  exquisite  taste  in  dress.  The 
costumes  of  this  queenly  messenger,  who  brings  a  period  of  repose  and  refine- 
ment to  the  border,  are  marvellous  creations  of  rainbow-hued  crepe,  chiffon, 
plush,  and  rare  laces,  brightened  by  a  few  rich  adornments  of  gold.  The 
opalescent  tints  are  favourites  of  hers,  and  charmingly  does  she  use  them, 
sometimes  with  gold  lacings.     Always  is  she  a  vision  of  loveliness. 

When  the  peonies  follow,  they  seem,  in  their  turn,  to  dominate  the 
garden,  as  they  spread  for  us  a  feast  of  colour  ranging  from  creamy  white, 
through  luscious  pinks,  to  deep,  restful  crimsons.  What  opulence  of  bloom 
is  theirs  !  The  modern  peony  is,  we  hope,  too  truly  cultured  to  be  hurt 
by  an  allusion  to  that  branch  of  its  family  known  to  our  grandmiothers  as 
"piny."  Quite  inferior  were  they  to  the  peony  beauties  of  to-day,  but  very 
dear  to  grandmother,  along  \yith  her  sw^eet-williams,  lilacs  and  artemisias. 
Early  in  the  last  century  Jane  Austen  wrote  from  their  Chawton  home  to 
her  sister  Cassandra,  "Our  young  piony  at  the  foot  of  the  fir  tree  has  just 
bloomed,  and  looks  very  handsome."  It  must  have  had  then,  as  now,  that 
excellent  p'ant  virtue  of  presenting  a  good  appearance.  All  the  season 
through,  from  its  first  shining,  bright-red  shoots  until  cut  down  by  frost, 
the  peony  contrives  to  look  neat  and  respectable.  Not  so  the  hollyhock, 
however,  poor  fellow  !  He  grows  sadly  rusty  and  seedy-looking  before  the 
summ,er  is  over,  but  he  is  one  of  the  indispensables  among  the  hardy  flowers, 
nevertheless.     How  could  we  possibly  get  on  without  him  ?     Whether  single, 


The  "  Golden  Glow,"  a  double  form  of  our  native  Rudbeckia  laciniata,  one  of  [he  most  successful  perennials  in  cultivation 


Perennials 


43 


double  or  semi -double,  or  of  what  colour  it  matters  little,  so  long  as  he  is  with 

us.     In  a  well-ordered  border  they  w411  appear  in  groups  of  separate  colours, 

but  in  a  fence  corner,  near  a  cottage  door,  or  over  a  gray  stone  wall,  how 

pretty  they  are  with  their  hit-or-miss  effect  of  colour.     Groups  of  pure  white 

hollyhocks,   like  groups  of  white  foxglove,   placed  here  and  there  among 

the  brilliant  hues  around  them,  set  off  a  garden  wonderfully.     This  is  true 

also  of  white  phlox,  even  more  useful,  perhaps,  because  of  its  long-blooming 

season,   which  makes  the 

perennial   phlox  of    such 

value  in  the    hardy    garden. 

Masses  of  colour  can  be  easily 

formed    with    them.      Lovely 

shades    of    pink,    with    wh  te 

ones     for    next-door     ne  gh- 

bours  and  a  touch  of   yellow 

not  far  away  (given,  perhaps, 

by  hardy  coreopsis  or  a  heli- 

anthus    of    medium    height), 

make  the  garden  seem    'alle 

ful  of  freshe  floures,"  like  the 

Squire's    embroidered    dress, 

in  "Canterbury  Tales." 

The  study  of  colour  effects 
is  one  of  the  various  garden 
interests,  and  in  working  out 
our  schemes  the  oriental  rule 
for    harmonising    strong 

colours  by  the  use  of  dividing  Foxgloves  in  a  border 

Hnes  of  white,  gold  or  black  is  a  help,  black  being   translated  into   some 
dull  purplish  hue  for  garden  use. 

Nature  shows  her  skill  as  an  artist : 

"When    daisies    pied,    and    violets    blue, 
And  lady-smocks  all  silver  white, 
And  cuckoo  buds  of  yellow  hue, 

Do   paint   the   meadows   with   delight. " 

But  the  gardener  likes  to  take  colour  arrangement  into    his    own    hands, 
hoping  to  paint  the  garden  with  delight. 


44 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


We  put  blue  larkspurs  near  white  lilies  and  fancy  the  border  is  never 
lovelier  than  in  lily  time,  while  the  blue  and  the  white  hold  sway  there. 
And  we  find  them  far  more  interesting  to  "Hve  up  to"  than  the  choicest  of 
blue-and-white  china.  Yellow,  as  a  harmoniser,  offers  itself  on  every  side. 
It  is  necessary  to  guard  against  an  over-supply.  The  advent  among  us  of  the 
popular  golden  glow  has  brought  much  cheer  into  the  garden  w^orld,  but  its 
restless    energy  and    push  fill  the  owner  of   a  moderate-sized  border  with 


Shortia  galacifolia,  a  rare  and  exquisite  perennial  discovered  in   1788  and  then  lost  for  nearly  one  hundred  years 


Utter  dismay.  (3ne  can  believe  it  would  become  as  lavishly  in  evidence  as 
the  sunshine  if  it  were  given  its  own  way.  But  there  comes  a  time,  and 
that  speedily,  when  its  advance  in  the  border  must  be  checked,  and  new 
quarters  fotmd  for  the  adventurous  offshoots.  Forced  to  expedients,  we 
tried  hitching  a  row  of  them  to  the  barn  by  means  of  staples  driven  into  the 
clapboards.  This  does  aw-ay  with  the  tall,  strong  stakes  these  rudbeckias 
demand  in  the  garden  because  of  their  inordinate  ambition  to  get  up,  as  well 
as  on,  in  the  world.     Apparently,  the  new  situation  suits  them,  and  they 


The  famous  Matilija  poppy  of  California— Romneya  Coulteri.     It  is  one  of  the  showiest  members  of  the  poppy  family,  but 
only  a  very  few  persons  have  succeeded  in  raising  it  in  the  eastern  States 


Perennials 


47 


White  Day-Lily   (Funkia) 

^ay    with    brightest    bloom. 


rejoice  in  the  drip  from  the  eaves,  by  which  they  will  probably  be  so  much 
refreshed  as  to  feel  equal  to  extra  exertions  in  their  march  over  the  earth. 
They  make  the  north  side  of  the  barn  sunny  with  generous  yellow  bloom,  and 
they  add  much  to  the  background  of 
the  border.  That  they  add  too 
much  is  all  that  lessens  our  grati- 
tude. The  strenuous  life  is  theirs 
indeed,  and  their  modern  ways  must 
greatly  perplex  their  conservative 
neighbours  of  the  old  school,  who, 
with  their  leisurely  and  dignified 
bearing,  make  the  border  of  old 
perennials    a    restful    place    even    when    it    is 

And  we  like  it  to  be  restful,  for  the  enjoyment  of  those  associations  in 
which  there  is  much  that  borders  on  psychological  ground.  Can  we  be  sure 
that  the  spirits  of  garden-lovers  do  not  hover  over  other  real  garden-lovers' 
gardens,  wherever  they  may  be  found  ?  A  fancy  far  pleasanter  than  that 
of  the  transmigration  of  souls  through  animal  life  would  be  the  thought 
that  those  who  have  dearly  loved  certain  flowers  identify  themselves,  to 
the  discerning  sense,  with  their  favourites  forever.  Perhaps;  who  knows? 
It  is  a  bit  of  Celia  Thaxter's  vivid  thought  that  comes  to  us  from  the  poppies 

as  they  sway  lightly  in  the  breeze. 
And  why  is  it  that  we  feel  such 
tender  care  of  the  low-growing 
things,  the  babies  of  the  border? 
Is  it  not  something  more  than  plant 
life  that  looks  up  out  of  the  blue  eyes 
of  the  forget-me-not,  the  little  violet 
faces,  the  sweet  June  pinks,  and 
daisies  ?    Over  these  garden  pets  we 

bend  with  something  of  the  mother- 
Hybrid  Day-LUy  (Hememcalis  "Florham")  love,  to  minister  to  their  needs. 
Of  Mrs.  Ewing,  too,  we  like  to  think  while  busy  among  the  flowers.  She,  too, 
was  fond  of  gardening,  as  well  as  of  her  garden,  believing  that  a  close  acquaint- 
ance with  the  flower  friends  can  best  be  had  with  little  intervention  from 
the  professional  gardener.  How  much  we  lost  when  Mrs.  Ew4ng's  charm- 
ing "Letters  from  a  Little  Garden"  were  cut  short  by  her  death! 


^^  :'i 

m-' '" 

M 

pi 

48  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

Another  garden  enthusiast,  Miss  Mitford,  tells  us  what  a  pleasure  it  is 
"to  have  a  flower  in  a  friend's  garden." 

Gardens  conduce  to  friendliness  in  many  ways,  and  the  exchange  of 
roots,  bulbs,  seeds  and  flowers  is  one  of  them.  Dear  personal  associations 
are  rooted  to  the  spot  where  grows  "a  flower  from  a  friend's  garden."  It 
is  as  much  of  an  event  in  the  garden  as  m  the  social  world  when  a  new 
acquaintance  is  formed,  and  when  a  fine  chrysanthemum  root  steps  from  a 
neighbour's  garden  into  ours  the  campanula  bells  should  ring  for  joy.  We 
are  fortunate  in  having  garden  cam.paniles  that  fall  each  autumn,  only 
to  rise  again  m  the  same  likeness  when  summer  comes  again.  Always  to 
be  associated  with  old-fashioned  roses  is  the  friend  who  appeared  on  the 
garden  scene  one  October  day  with  a  bundle  of  plants  in  her  arms.  Like 
a  fairy  godmother  seemed  she  when  the  bundle  disclosed  an  assortment  of 
roses  from  her  own  old  garden,  all  duly  labelled — damask,  Scotch, 
seven  sisters  (a  single  rose  wdiich  was  traced  back  more  than  a  century), 
"and  a  George  the  Fourth  black  rose,  my  dear,  that  your  uncle  gave  me 
years  ago."  Happy  is  the  garden  that  has  a  fairy  godmother  to  bring  it 
gifts  like  those  roses  ! 

Happy,  too,  ought  to  be  that  garden  of  the  Nova  Scotian  who  said  she 
always  meant  to  have  thrift,  honesty  and  abundance  m  her  garden.  Honesty 
is  not  often  met  with  m  gardens  now,  unfortunately.  It  is  a  most  inter- 
esting thing  to  grow  because  of  its  beautiful  oval  seed-valves,  made  apparently 
of  mother-of-pearl,  set  like  an  eye-glass  m  a  delicate  but  firm  rim.  From 
the  pleasure  a  bunch  of  these  lustrous  ornaments  (one  of  the  lovehest  of 
Nature's  devices  in  seed-pods)  gives  to  elderly  persons  it  would  seem  that 
it  was  more  in  favour  formerly  than  now. 

Hardy  chrysanthemums  are  disappearing,  like  honesty,  from  the  borders, 
discouraged,  possibly,  by  the  wonderful  show-flowers  of  the  florist.  But  it  is 
a  pity  to  let  them  go,  for  they  are  among  the  truest  of  the  hardy  friends, 
and,  with  Japanese  anemones,  keep  up  the  cheer  of  the  garden  until  winter 
is  close  upon  us.  There  are  several  good  ones  among  those  still  available — 
white,  purest  yellow,  dark  red,  silvery  pink,  and  all  the  dear  little  button 
kinds,  mahogany-red  among  them. 

There  is  one  seemingly  more  precious,  perhaps  because  elusive,  that 
used  to  grow  along  a  fence  on  an  old  village  street,  and  was  the  object  of  a 
yearly  autumn  drive.  The  lovely  flower  was  a  loose  white  ball  just  tinged 
with  purplish  pink.     It  vanished  several  years  ago  from  that  Kmderhook 


Perennials 


51 


garden.     Doubtless   it   flourishes   elsewhere.     May   its   shadow   never   grow 
less  until  it  reveals  itself  again  to  us  in  its  beautiful  old-time  splendour. 

Another    neglected    once-upon-a-time  favounte  is  the    Christmas  rose. 
To   look,  on  Christmas   Eve,   into  a    ^,  -^ 

little  hollow  walled  with  snow,  at  its    1 
waxy   blossoms,  white,  flushed  with 
pink,   is   like   looking    down    at    the 
Bambino    in    an    Italian   church   at 
Christmastide. 

After  all,  there  are  but  few 
among  the  dear  old  favourites  that 
have  grown  out  of  our  affections. 
]\Iost  of  them  have  been  loved  down 
through  the  years  by  so  many  who 
have  sounded  their  praises  in  poetry 
and  prose  that  a  wealth  of  associa- 
tion   now   surrounds   them  for  those  " 

A   young   hollyhock    in  sprine,  grown  from  seeds  sown  in 
of    whom    it    can    be   said a  frame  the  previous  August 


"In  books  and  gardens  thou  hast  placed  aright 
Thy  noble,  innocent  dehght.  " 

Literature  has  embraced  the  old-fashioned  garden,  and  more  and  more  in 
these  days  the  garden  gathers  to  itself  an  added  charm  from  literature. 
We  feel  it  with  the  primrose,  the  violet,  and  daffodil ;  the  wallflower,  whose 
unassuming  blossoms  send  forth  Old  World  memories  as  well  as  their  own 
dehghtful  fragrance;  with  the  dainty  columbine,  and  the  foxglove,  whose 
flower-stalk  arrangement  Ruskm  likens  unto  the  various  stages  of  life — 
infancy  at  the  top,  old  age  withering  away  below.  Tennyson  speaks  of 
"the  foxglove  spire." 

Rich  are  we  m  these  treasures,  for  the  flowers  that  a  well-stocked  hardy 
border  holds  may  be  called  the  classics  of  the  garden. 

Compared  with  our  short  span  of  lite,  they  belong  to  the  Immortals. 

Year  after  year  "the  same  dear  things  lift  up  the  same  fair  faces,"  and 
we  would  gladly  become  perennial,  far  beyond  the  limit  of  our  threescore 
years  and  ten,  to  longer  enjoy  our  hardy  flower  friends. 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


V.     Scattered  Planting  vs.  Masses 


By  "M." 


iple  of  massed  planting 


The  first  of  the  accompanying  illustrations  shows  one  of  the  fundamental 
conceptions  m  landscape  gardening,  namely,  mass  planting  as  opposed  to 
the  indiscrimmate  scattering  of  individual  plants.     In  the  second  photograph 

one  sees  a  large  number  of  rare  and 
costly  plants.  The  mind  wanders 
from  one  detail  to  another;  the 
whole  effect  is  distracting  and  be- 
wildering. There  are  many  plants, 
but  there  is  no  picture.  The 
question  of  what  to  plant  is  of 
secondary  importance  to  the  ques- 
tion of  how  to  plant. 

The  first  picture  is  characterised 
by  simplicity  and  strength.  The 
mind  grasps  the  whole  scheme  at  once.  The  open  lawn  in  the  center  is 
not  cluttered  with  a  miscellaneous  and  meaningless  collection  of  curiosities« 
The  Imes  of  the  border  are  free  and 
gracefully  flowing.  Such  a  border 
requires  very  little  care  compared 
with  the  second  one.  It  is  com- 
posed of  perfectly  hardy  trees  and 
shrubs  arranged  in  a  nature-like 
manner.  The  border  is  full  of 
colour,  which  is  set  oft  by  a  natural 
background  of  tree  foliage.  In  the 
second  picture  we  have  only  the 
interest  of  detail.  There  is  no 
unity,  no  grouping,  no  massing  of 
plants.  The  tender  foliage  plants  are  costly  and  ephemeral,  while  unsightly 
stakes  are    a    poor    substitute   for    robust,   sturdy,   self-supporting   plants. 


Example  of  scattered  planting 


CHAPTER  III.      SHRUBS   AND    SHRUBBERY 

I.     Shrubs   and    Where    to    Put   Them 

By   L.    H.    Bailey 

HE  growth  of  the  appreciation  of  shrubbery  is  one  of  the 
significant  notes  of  the  time.  Every  one  Hkes  trees  and  is 
wilhng  to  plant  them,  but  the  regard  for  shrubs  seems  to 
be  a  later  development.  This  is  well  illustrated  in  many 
of  the  fine  old  estates,  in  which  there  are  trees  of  magni- 
ficent proportions  but  a  great  dearth  of  plants  of  lower 
growth.  This  former  lack  of  appreciation  of  shrubbery  is  all  the  more 
smgular  from  the  fact  that  the  beauty  of  our  common  native  landscapes 
often  depends  quite  as  much  on  the  shrubs  as  on  the  trees.  I  suppose  that 
the  mere  smallness  of  the  shrubs  causes  them  to  appear  to  be  trivial  and 
little  worth  the  while.     We  have  undergone  a   similar   evolution   in   fruit- 


i 

1 

Clump  of  one  of  the  wild  roses,  showing  good  shrub-effects  as  well  as  good  bloom 

S3 


54 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


growing.  Our  early  pomology  is  concerned  mostly  with  tree  fruits — apples, 
pears,  cherries,  peaches,  plums.  The  bush-fruit  industry  is  really  a  develop- 
ment of  the  last  fifty  years;  and  even  yet  there  are  many  good  fruit- 
growers   who  will  not  "bother"  with  berries. 

The  marked  advance  in   the  appreciation   of   shrubs  is   probably  due 
to  two  general  agencies — to  our  growing  intimacy  with  the  particular  objects 


Ugly  corners  and  bare  lattice-work  screened  with  wild  bushes  and  herbs 

in  nature,  and  to  the  teaching  by  the  landscape  gardeners.  We  are  caring 
more  for  things  afield.  We  even  start  agitations  to  preserve  the  wild  flowers 
and  animals  from  destruction.  Every  year  we  are  transferring  greater 
numbers  of  the  wild  plants  to  our  gardens.  Our  appreciation  of  nature 
is  becoming  closer  and  more  particular.  I  believe  that  we  have  lost  nothing 
of  appreciation  in  the  large ;  but  we  have  certainly  added  a  more  specific 
understanding  of  the  details.  From  the  art  side,  we  are  aware  that  our 
canons  of  taste  are  changing.     The  old  idea  of  the  grove  as  a  proper  concep- 


Shrubs  and  Shrubbery 


57 


tion  for  the  home  area  has  given  place  to  the  idea  of  a  picture;  and,  in  a 
landscape  picture,  trees  are  not  the  only  elements  of  interest,  any  more 
than  they  are  in  a  picture  on  canvas.  The  shrubs  are  needed  for  the 
intermediate   tones. 

Before  discussing  the  kinds  of  shrubs,  it  is  important  that  we  understand 
why  we  use  shrubs.     The  largest  use  of  shrubs  is  as  a  part  of  the  general 


A  good  treatment  of  sumac,  planted  against  a  background,  and  cut  to  the  ground  now  and  then  in  order  to 
force  a  vigorous  new  growth 

composition.  The  old  books  said  much  about  the  sky-line  made  by  the  tops 
of  trees.  In  places  of  ordinary  dimensions,  however,  it  is  more  important 
to  consider  the  ground-Hne.  The  ordinary  line  of  vision  should  often  be 
arrested  at  the  boundaries  of  the  place,  else  the  place  looks  bare,  indefinite 
and  unfurnished. 

The  proper  disposition  of  shrubs  breaks  the  monotonous  ground-line 
and  sets  limits  to  the  place.  Shrubbery  also  introduces  great  variety  of 
form  and  colour  and  texture,  and  it  reHeves  the  tameness  and  openness 
of  mere   tree-planted   areas.     It   enhances    the    intimacy   of    our    relations 


58  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

with  the  planting,  since  shrubs  grow  to  the  height  of  one's  eyes ;  whereas 
trees  grow  far  above  us,  and  most  herbs  are  far  below  us. 

Aside  from  these  general  considerations,  shrubbery  has  specific  uses. 
It  affords  a  most  excellent  and  quick-growing  screen  to  cut  off  undesirable 
objects.  Thus,  a  thick  planting  of  shrubs  may  screen  a  chicken-yard,  a 
clothes-yard,  a  neighbour's  premises,  the  kitchen  door,  the  vegetable  garden, 
the  rear  fence,  the  children's  playground.  It  may  afford  a  good  cover  for 
high  and  bare  foundations,  serving  to  tie  the  house  to  the  greensward. 
It  may  cover  rough  and  intractable  areas,  as  rocky  places.  It  may  hold 
banks  from  washing.  It  is  useful  for  filling  all  odd  and  unmanageable 
comers,  as  the  comers  by  the  steps  and  in  the  wall.  It  may  be  made  to 
cover  naked  and  unsightly  places  under  trees  and  under  wide  eaves.  Nearly 
every  important  group  of  trees  should  have  more  or  less  shrubbery  at  its 
base.  Compare  the  tree-groups  that  please  you  in  the  parks  with  those 
that  do  not,  and  see  whether  shrubbery  does  not  enter  into  the  composition 
of  the  former.  Observe  the  treatment  of  the  roadsides  in  modern  parks. 
Why  is  the  old  fence -row  so  attractive  ? 

If  the  reader  has  been  patient  enough  to  follow  me  thus  far,  he  will 
understand  how  very  difficult  it  is  for  any  one  to  give  general  advice  on  the 
kinds  of  shrubs  to  plant.  The  shrubs  must  suit  the  objects  for  which  they 
are  to  be  grown,  and  must  adapt  themselves  to  the  particular  conditions. 
The  questioner  must  first  analyse  his  subject ;  then  the  question  may  answer 
itself.  If  you  are  wholly  at  sea  as  to  what  you  want  to  do,  call  in  a  landscape 
gardener.  Do  not  think  that  because  your  place  is  small  you  want  a  small 
landscape  gardener.  Often  the  most  difficult  questions  are  those  concerned 
with  small  areas.  Get  good  advice,  or  else  take  your  own.  If  you  know 
what  you  want  as  to  effects,  but  are  unacquainted  with  the  kinds  of  shrubs 
to  produce  these  effects,  again  take  advice,  and  be  willing  to  pay  for  it.  Ask 
some  competent  landscape  gardener  or  some  reliable  nurseryman  what 
shrubs  will  thrive,  for  example,  in  shady  places  in  your  climate,  what  ones 
will  bloom  in  July,  what  ones  will  grow  in  wet  places,  and  the  like.  Perhaps 
there  is  a  park  nearby  to  which  you  can  go  to  see  the  kinds  of  shrubs.  The 
superintendent  or  some  other  officer  will  be  glad  to  tell  you  what  they  are 
and  what  they  are  good  for,  and  to  answer  any  other  intelligent  question. 
This  is  one  of  the  things  that  parks  are  for — to  afford  information  to  the 
intending  planter,  as  well  as  to  be  things  of  beauty  in  themselves. 

My  own  predilections  are  for  the  native  shrubs — for  those,   I  mean, 


Shrubs  and  Shrubbery  6i 

that  grow  wild  in  my  neighbourhood.  They  are  usually  "easy"  to  grow, 
requiring  no  extra  trouble :  perhaps  this  is  the  source  of  my  interest  in  them. 
Then,  if  planted  freely,  they  make  the  place  a  part  of  the  region  in  which  it 
is.  We  are  content  only  when  we  appreciate  the  region  in  which  we  live. 
Where  hobble-bush  is  the  commonest  bush,  hobble-bush  should  be  to 
us  the  best  bush.  It  is  often  said  that  the  native  bushes  are  cheapest,  but 
I  doubt  this.  1  can  buy  Japanese  shrubs  at  the  nursery  one  hundred  miles 
away,  and  have  them  shipped  to  me,  at  a  total  cost  considerably  less  than 
that  incurred  when  I  search  the  woods  for  dockmackie  and  good  wild  roses — 
providing,  of  course,  my  time  is  worth  anything.  But  then,  how  could  I 
spend  my  time  more  entertainingly? 

Of  course,  I  should  not  plant  exclusively  of  the  natives;  and  if  none 
of  the  natives  seemed  to  fit  the  conditions  and  requirements,  then  I  should 
have  none  of  them.  But,  at  all  events,  I  should  make  the  main  body  of 
my  shrubbery  of  staple,  hardy,  easily  grown  kinds.  Then  I  am  sure  that 
I  am  making  no  experiment  and  taking  no  risks.  The  fancy  and  capricious 
kinds  I  should  use  sparingly ;  then  if  they  fail  I  still  have  my  main  plantations 
left.  The  list  of  the  reliable  and  hardy  kinds  for  central  New  York  is  really 
a  long  one.  I  should  include  in  it  lilacs,  mock-orange  or  philadelphus, 
spireas,  deutzias,  rugosa  roses,  Tartarian  and  other  bush  honeysuckle, 
privets,  elders,  Japanese  snowball  (the  old-fashioned  one  is  too  much  infested 
with  plant -lice),  viburnums,  barberries,  Japanese  quince,  several  willows, 
chokecherry,  flowering  currant,  dogwoods  (cornus)  weigelas,  hazels,  symphori- 
carpuses,  sumacs.  These  I  should  call  good  general-purpose  shrubs,  and 
suitable  for  the  main  effect  in  planting. 

Most  other  shrubs  I  should  consider  to  be  special-purpose  kinds  in  central 
New  York.  For  example,  the  big-trussed  hydrangea  is  a  special-purpose 
object.  Perhaps  no  shrub  is  planted  with  so  little  taste  as  this.  The  idea 
seems  to  be  that  it  must  be  planted,  but  that  it  is  immaterial  where  it  is 
planted.  Oftenest  it  is  made  to  spoil  a  good  lawn  by  having  it  thrust  in 
here  and  there  without  relation  to  method,  purpose  or  design.  It  reminds 
me  of  the  old  lady  who  came  into  possession  of  some  doors  when  a  neighbour- 
ing church-building  was  pulled  down.  Of  course,  she  must  use  the  doors: 
therefore,  she  set  posts  in  her  garden  and  hung  the  doors  between. 

This  brings  up  the  whole  question  of  what  to  do  with  very  showy  plants 
like  the  hydrangea.  It  is  perfectly  legitimate  to  have  them,  but  their 
disposition  should  have  some  relation  to  the  place  itself.     I  am  perfectly 


62 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


sure    that   they   should   not   be   scattered   here   and   there.     They  show  to 
best  advantage  against  a  background  of  foliage.     The  best  effects  usually 

are  secured  when  they  are 
planted  in  front  of  heavy 
shrub -masses.  They  then 
have  some  connection  with 
the  construction  lines  of 
the  place,  and  they  are  far 
enough  removed  from  the 
other  shrubs  to  allow  them 
to  develop  into  their  full  in- 
dividuality. A  long,  sweep- 
ing line  of  them  against  a 
flowing  background  of  taller 
and  heavier  growth  also 
comports  well,  particularly 
if  the  place  is  somewhat 
florid  in  its  character.  It  is 
always  well,  with  whatever 
plant,  to  avoid  the  isolated, 
unrelated,  single  specimen  in 
the  middle  of  a  greensward. 
Note  how  emphatic  are  the 
plants  of  sumac  and  mock- 
orange  in  the  illustrations  on  pages  74  and  75,  because  they  have  a  background 


Azalea  amoena,  forming  the  terminus  of  a  line  of  shrubbery 


Shrubs  and  Shrubbery 


6s 


of  good  foliage.  You  would  not  put  a  pump  in  the  center  of  your  front 
yard :  then  why  put  a  hydrangea  there  ?  The  beauty  of  any  planting  will 
be  enhanced  by  due  consideration  of  the  surrounding  conditions  of  landscape. 

The  value  of  shrubbery  really  lies  less  in  its  bloom  than  in  the  foliage 
and  the  general  character  as  to  form  and  "habit."  Many  shrubs  have 
merit  in  both  flowers  and  fohage.  Of  such  is  the  Japanese  quince.  In 
spring  the  bush  is  on  fire  with  flowers ;  in  summer,  if  the  plant  is  not  sheared, 
the  habit  and  foliage  are  good.  The  forsythia,  however,  while  excelling  in 
early  spring  bloom,  has  a  thin  and  sparse  summer  eftect  that  lacks  both 
strength  and  individuality.  Therefore,  it  is  well  to  make  the  forsythia  an 
integral  part  of  a  shrubbery-mass,  in  order  that  its  summer  aspect  may  be 
blended  with  other  foliage.  Roses  are  rarely  good  for  shrubbery  effects. 
They  are  essentially  flower-garden 
subjects,  valued  for  their  bloom 
alone.  They  do  not  produce  their 
best  bloom  when  massed  with  other 
shrubbery.  Therefore,  it  is  best  to 
grow  them  in  a  place  by  them- 
selves, and  in  rows,  where  they 
may  receive  the  best  of  care. 
There  are  some  exceptions  to  these 
remarks  in  the  case  of  the  Japanese 
rugosa  rose  and  some  of  the 
natives ;  these  may  be  good  shrubs 
as  well  as  good  flower-bearers ;  but 
even  in  these  the  blooms  are 
secondary. 

The  whole  subject  of  purple- 
leaved,  yellow-leaved,  variegated- 
leaved  and  cut -leaved  shrubs  may 
be  considered  in  this  connection. 
These  objects  should  always  be 
mere  incidents  in  a  place.  They 
are  curiosities.  When  planted  spar- 
ingly and  near  some  shrubbery- 
mass,  some  of  them  give  very 
pleasing  effects,  adding  richness  and 


The  swamp  leucothoe(L.  racemosa),  a  shrub  with  waxy 
white  flowers 


66  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

emphasis  to  the  group;  but  it  is  always  easy  to  use  too  many  exclama- 
tion points. 

The  reprehensible  practice  of  shearing  shrubs  should  also  be  considered 
here.  The  beauty  and  interest  of  a  shrub  surely  lie  in  its  natural  habit  and 
form.  When  shrubs  are  sheared  into  formal  shapes,  the  shrub  no  longer 
exists  for  itself,  but  is  only  a  means  of  expressing  some  queer  conceit  of 
the  shearer.  Of  course,  shrubs  should  be  pruned  to  make  them  healthy 
and  vigorous,  to  keep  them  within  bounds,  to  increase  the  size  of  bloom,  and 
to  check  mere  way^vardness ;  but  all  this  leaves  the  shrub  a  shrub,  with  the 
hand  of  the  pruncr  unseen,  and  does  not  make  it  to  counterfeit  a  bottle,  or 
a  barrel,  or  a  parachute.  If  the  forsythia  has  superlative  merit,  it  is  for  the 
wealth  of  early  spring  bloom.  Yet,  I  know  a  yard  in  which  the  forsythias 
are  annually  sheared  into  shapeless  shapes,  and  this  is  done  when  they  are 
m  bloom.  Last  year  two-thirds  of  the  bloom  was  cut  from  these  bushes 
when  it  was  just  opening,  and  the  reply  of  the  Irishman  who  barbered  them, 
when  I  remonstrated,  was,  "  Indade,  they  hev  no  shape." 

The  satisfaction  in  shrubs,  as  in  any  other  plants,  lies  in  their  vigour 
and  healthfulness.  Make  the  ground  rich  before  you  plant  them;  or,  if 
they  are  already  planted,  dress  them  m  the  fall  with  fine  manure,  and  in 
spring  apply  a  little  chemical  fertiliser.  I  like  to  prepare  the  shrub-border 
by  spading  it  or  plowing  it  deep,  working  in  an  abundance  of  good  humus- 
making  material,  such  as  fine  litter  and  old  manure.  This  extra  work  pays 
exceedingly  well  m  the  end. 

Plant  thick — say  two  feet  apart,  unless  the  shrubs  are  very  large  to 
begin  with.  You  want  quick  efTects.  The  plantation  can  be  thinned  out 
later,  and  those  plants  that  are  removed  can  be  planted  elsewhere.  Shrubs 
can  be  moved  readily.  Sometimes  I  remove  certain  shrubs  frequently 
for  several  years,  letting  them  do  service  in  various  places  for  a  time.  For 
a  year  or  two,  strong -growing  annual  herbs  may  be  grown  in  the  vacant  or 
bare  places;  but  if  this  is  done,  extra  care  must  be  taken  with  fertilising  and 
watering,  or  the  bushes  will  suffer.  When  the  bushes  are  planted,  they 
should  be  headed  back  severely,  and  this  practice  may  need  to  be  repeated 
for  a  year  or  two  until  the  plants  are  thoroughly  established ;  but  after  they 
are  well  under  way,  prune  them  only  mildly. 

As  to  fall  or  spring  planting,  one  cannot  give  dogmatic  advice.  I 
usually  prefer  the  spnng,  not  knowing  what  the  winter  will  do  for  the  plants ; 
but  get  them  in  early,  so  that  they  may  establish  themselves  partly  before 


Shrubs  and  Shrubbery  69 

the  hot,  dry  weather  comes.     If  the  land  is  well  prepared  the  preceding  fall, 
much  will  be  gained. 

Always  prepare  to  destroy  the  bugs  and  leaf-blights.  Every  place  of 
any  size — even  a  well-planted  city  lot — should  now  have  a  light  spraying 
outfit.  A  little  ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper  can  always  be  kept  in 
stock  in  bottles,  ready  to  be  diluted,  and  to  be  used  for  fungous  attacks; 
and  hellebore  or  other  poisons  may  be  kept  for  the  insects.  Most  shrubs 
will  take  care  of  themselves,  to  be  sure;  but  this  does  not  prove  that  good 
care  on  your  part  may  not  produce  still  better  results. 


II.     How   TO    Prune    Shrubs 
By  William   Falconer 

We  prune  shrubs  to  regulate  their  growth  and  make  them  graceful, 
pretty  bushes,  to  accentuate  their  natural  character,  to  invigorate  weak 
growth  or  check  overluxuriance,  or  to  increase  the  profusion  or  enhance  the 
equality  of  their  blossoms.  W^e  prune  a  privet  hedge  with  a  hedge -shears 
in  a  closely  sheared,  straight,  artificial  line  or  rounded  form;  but  this  sort 
of  pruning  in  the  case  of  spireas,  deutzias,  weigelas,  mock-oranges  and  other 
garden  favourites,  grown  in  shrubbery-masses  or  as  isolated  specimens  for 
beauty  of  form  or  blossoms,  would  be  desecration. 

All  kinds  of  garden  shrubs  may  be  pruned  between  the  times  when  the 
leaves  drop  off  in  late  fall  and  before  the  buds  start  to  burst  into  growth 
in  earliest  sprmg,  but  I  do  not  like  pruning  in  very  frosty  weather.  A 
stout,  sharp  pocket-knife,  as  Saynor's  pruning-knife,  or  a  pair  of  seven- 
inch,  eight -inch,  or  nine-inch  spring  pruning-shears,  are  the  handiest  im- 
plements for  pruning;  for  cutting  out  the  stoutest  shoots  and  the  bigger 
old  wood  a  parrot-bill  is  excellent,  or  a  pair  of  lopping  shears  with 
handles  three  feet  long. 

In  pruning  shrubs  of  any  kind,  have  an  eye  to  regulate  the  growth  of 
the  plant,  and  give  it  an  easy,  graceful,  natural  outline,  always  trying  to 
keep  the  branches  well  down  to  the  ground.  Thin  out  old  and  gnarly  stems 
and  stunted  or  enfeebled  wood,  and  endeavour  to  preserve  a  fair  fullness 
of  healthy  shoots  with  plenty  of  firm,  well-ripened  spray  twigs  for  flowers. 
In  pruning  twigs,  always  cut  back  close  to  an  eye  or  joint,  and  in  pruning 
branches,  large  or  small,  always  cut  close  back  to  a  joint  or  stem.     Never 


70 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


leave  a  snag,  and  wherever  you  find  an  old  snag  cut  it  off  close  to  the  living 
wood.  Never  use  hedge-shears  on  a  shrub.  We  not  infrequently  see  shrubs 
bare  at  the  bottom  and  with  tall  stems  and  broad,  spreading  heads,  but  they 
are  repugnant  to  the  eye.  When  the  shrubs  begin  to  crowd  each  other  in 
a  bed,  do  not  try  to  remedy  matters  by  pruning;  instead,  thin  the  mass  by 


A  bit  of  effective  border  planting 


removing  a   number  of    the    bushes — dig    them    up    carefully    and    plant 
elsewhere. 

If  any  of  your  shrubs  get  infested  with  bark  scale — Hlacs,  prunuses, 
euonymus,  and  some  others  frequently  do — root  them  out  bodily  without 
hesitation,  and  burn  them  Do  not  try  to  cure  the  shrubs  by  pruning  off 
the  infested  limbs.  I  once  had  a  big  bed  of  rugosa  roses  infested  with 
white  scale,  and  m  winter  I  cut  off  every  plant  down  mto  the  ground ;  the 
next  spring,  from  the  suckers  in  the  earth,  up  there  came  a  dense  mass  of 
young  shoots,  all  perfectly  clean. 


Shrubs  and  Shrubbery 


73 


Avoid  heavy  cutting,  hacking  or  pruning  of  shrubs  at  one  time  by 
timely  and  judicious  pruning  every  year.  In  most  cases,  a  very  httle 
pruning  will  be  sufficient. 

Among  shrubs  that  need  scarcely  any  pruning  are  azaleas,  Deiitzia 
gracilis,  sweet  fern  (comptonia),  wax  myrtle,  mezereon,  ceanothus,  tree 
peonies,  shrub  yellowroot,  and  Thunberg's  spirea.  On  the  other  hand, 
shrubs  that  are  benefited  by  being  cut  down  to  the  ground  every  winter 
are  callicarpa,  Desiuodinni  pcndiilifloniiu  and  Japoiiiatiu,  the  "l)lue  spirea" 
(caryopteris),  and  the  shrub-like  perennial  wild  senna  {Cassia  Marylandica). 
Among  the  larger  shrubs  that  severe  annual  pruning  benefits  are  the  great 
panicled  hydrangea  and  the  tamarixes.  Cut  the  hydrangea  back  to  its  first 
or  second  joint  and  the  heads  of  flowers  will  be  much  larger  than  they  would 
be  if  more  wood  were  left.  The  African  tamarix  blooms  in  j\Iay ;  cut  it  hard 
back  as  soon  as  it  has  done  blooming,  but  never  at  any  other  time.  The 
Chinese  tamarix  blossoms  in  August  and  September;  cut  it  hard  back  in 


A  vista  of  hardy  herbs,  shrubs,  and  trees 


74 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


winter  only.  Some  advise  severe  annual  pruning  for  the  althea,  or  Rose  of 
Sharon ;  but  I  do  not,  for  I  do  not  admire  a  stumpy  shrub.  Keep  it  low- 
branched,  but  let  the  shoots  get  up  and  spread  out.  The  pure  white,  single- 
flowered  one  is  the  prettiest  of  all,  and  it  needs  very  httle  pruning. 

Among    cur    commonest    garden    shrubs    are   spireas,    deutzias,    mock- 
orange,  weigelas,  snowballs,  lilacs,   forsythias,  magnoHas,  kerria,  and  sweet 


The  woods  as  a  background  for  informal  borders  of  shrubbery  and  flowers.     Cut-leaved  staghorn  sumach, 
Hydrangea  hortensis,  and  Lilium  testaceum 

shrubs:  and  a  word  about  these  may  suggest  how  to  treat  the  others.  Take 
Van  Houtte's  spirea :  all  it  needs  is  occasional  thinning  out  of  the  old  wood ; 
do  not  shorten  the  arching  sprays.  The  crenata  deutzias  and  mock-orange 
(generally  known  as  syringa)  shrubs  are  likely  to  grow  very  tall  and  full- 
branched  from  the  bottom.  Thin  them  well  out  from  the  base,  and  cut 
some  of  the  tallest  stems  back  half  way,  but  do  not  shorten  the  side  branches 
or  well-ripened  arching  sprays.  Lilacs,  either  the  named  varieties,  Persian, 
Villosa,  or  the  late-blooming  tree  species,  as  Pekinensis  or  Japonica,  seldom 
need  any  pruning,  except  a  watchfulness  for  suckers  from  the  stocks  on 
which  they  have  been  grafted :  remove  these  as  soon  as  seen.     Weigelas 


Philadelphus,  known  also  as  syringa  and  mock-orange.     This  is  a  good  single  specimen,  standing  in  rela 
a  background.     (The  name  syringa  properly  belongs,  as  a  botanical  term,  to  the  lilacs) 


Shrubs  and  Shrubbery  77 

need  only  thinning,  and  if  they  show  a  tendency  to  overluxuriance  and 
sparsity  of  blossoms,  cut  in  their  roots  in  a  deep  circle  three  feet  away  from 
their  stem.  The  Japanese  snowballs  need  no  pruning,  but  the  common 
one  gives  much  bigger  blossoms  from  stout,  vigorous  young  shoots  than 
from  twiggy  old  wood ;  therefore,  keep  cutting  out  considerable  of  the  old 
wood  and  encouraging  young. 

MagnoHas  need  no  pruning  aside  from  the  timely  shortening  of  a  too 
far-reaching  branch ;  but  if  they  are  likely  to  get  bare  at  the  bottom,  tie 
down  some  of  the  lower  branches  close  to  the  ground  to  fill  up  the  space. 
Kerria  and  rhodotypus  may  get  too  thick ;  thin  them  a  little,  and  from  the 
bottom.  Sweet-shrub  needs  only  regulating,  and,  in  the  case  of  old  plants, 
merely  a  shortening  of  the  heavier  branches. 

Forsythias  should  be  pruned  just  after  their  flowers  are  past.  Cut 
them  in  rather   hard. 

Shrubs  of  doubtful  hardiness,  as  some  of  the  privets,  Japanese  red- 
bud,  and  styrax,  should  not  be  pruned  until  early  spring;  then  all  injury 
from  winter  can  be  cut  out.  Evergreen  azaleas  (amoena),  leucothoe, 
kalmias  and  rhododendrons  need  no  general  pruning ;  but  in  the  case  of  the 
rhododendrons  that  have  been  hurt  by  the  winter,  their  injured  branches 
should  be  cut  hard  back  into  sound  wood,  when  a  fresh  growth  may  start 
from  adventitious  buds. 

Roses  may  be  pruned  with  comparative  safety  at  any  time  in  winter; 
but  I  never  like  to  touch  them  until  the  winter  is  about  over,  because  in 
some  seasons,  from  tenderness  of  variety  or  injury  to  tmripe  wood,  some 
kinds  are  likely  to  get  hurt  down  to  the  snow-line.  The  H.  P.  or  June  roses 
we  cut  pretty  low  down ;  this  gives  us  strong  shoots  and  big  flowers.  Such 
as  Madame  Plantier  we  let  grow  into  big  bushes.  The  Crimson  Rambler 
is  let  alone,  and  it  repays  us  with  immense  wreaths  of  vivid  blossoms. 
The  prairie  and  all  other  running  roses  are  simply  thinned  out,  and  not 
shortened  back. 

In  the  case  of  some  of  the  finer  Japanese  shrubs,  or  small  trees — 
for  instance,  the  dwarf,  vari-coloured  maples,  magnolias  of  the 
Watsoni  and  parviflora  type,  and  pterostyrax — as  they  advance  in 
years  and  get  large,  a  branch,  a  big  limb,  or  maybe  half  the  plant, 
may  die  off  in  summer  with  a  good  deal  of  the  appearance  of  fire-blight 
in  pear  trees.  As  soon  as  this  is  noticed,  cut  out  these  diseased  limbs 
well  below  the  affected  parts. 


78 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


III.      Home    Propagation    of    Shrubbery 


By   Frank   H.   Sweet 


Quite  a  number  of  years  ago  my  father  bought  from  an  agent 
a  Hydrangea  paniciilata  grandifJora,  one  of  the  finest  of  flowering  shrubs. 
We  did  not  know  very  much  about  shrubs  at  that  time,  but  we  Hked  them 
all,  and  were  fond  of  experimenting.  The  second  year,  my  father  discovered 
that  the  hydrangea  was  much  improved  by  severe 
pruning.  It  grew  better,  and  the  blossoms  were 
much  larger.  Then  he  found  out  that  if  the 
cuttings  were  inserted  in  the  ground  any  time 
before  the  leaves  started  in  June  they  would  root 
easily.  He  raised  a  large  number  of  plants  in 
this  way.  All  of  them  blossomed  the  same  season 
the  cuttings  were  put  in,  and  the  second  year  they 
were  large  enough  to  transplant.  They  were  set 
in  a  hedge,  five  or  six  feet  apart,  in  front  of  the 
house.  The  land  was  rich  and  mellow,  and  they 
grew  rapidly.  At  present  the  hedge  is  eight  or 
ten  feet  high  and  presents  a  grand  spectacle  during 
August  and  September.  From  the  road,  especially 
in  the  evening,  it  looks  like  a  big  bank  of  snow. 
One  year  my  father  put  in  nearly  two  thousand  cuttings,  and  very  few  of 
them  failed  to  root.  He  has  given  away  hundreds  of  plants  to  his  neighbours, 
has  sold  several  hundred  dollars'  worth,  and  has  a  thousand  or  more  fine 
plants  on  his  place.  And  yet  he  has  not  followed  it  as  a  business,  has 
not  advertised,  and  has  done  comparatively  little  work  at  it — a  few  hours 
in  the  spring  and  fall,  putting  in  cuttings  and  transplanting  as  the  shrubs 
became  crowded. 

A  neighbour  has  an  acre  or  two  of  choice  shrubs  which  he  raised  almost 
entirely  from  cuttings  and  divisions  of  plants  that  have  been  picked  up  here 
and  there.  He  is  a  mechanic,  and  has  only  an  occasional  half-hour  to  spare 
for  this  work,  and  yet  during  the  few  years  that  he  has  owned  this  lot  he 
has  changed  the  barren  hillside  to  a  veritable  garden  of  beauty.  And  I 
doubt  if,  outside  of  his  work,  it  has  cost  him  more  than  ten  dollars. 

Many  of  the  cottage  owners  at  Narragansett  Pier — two  miles  away — 


Hydrangea— one  of  the  most  popular 
shrubs,  and  easily  propagated  at 
home 


Shrubs  and  Shrubbery  8i 

have  hedges  of  California  privet  set  around  their  grounds.  These  hedges 
are  pruned  two  or  three  times  during  the  summer,  and  the  cuttings  are 
usually  thrown  beside  the  road.  Occasionally  persons  going  by  have  picked 
them  up  and  carried  them  home.  At  present,  there  are  probably  twenty- 
five  or  thirty  fine  hedges  in  the  vicinity  which  are  the  direct  result  of  these 
cuttings.  If  the  owners  had  purchased  the  plants  from  a  nursery  the  hedges 
would  have  cost  from  ten  to  twenty  dollars  each;  as  it  is,  they  cost 
only  a  few  hours'  labour.  Privet  cuttings  root  easily,  and  at  any  time 
from  spring  to    fall 

I  have  stated  these  facts  merely  to  show  how  easy  it  is  to  acquire  or 
increase  shrubbery.  Of  course,  not  all  plants  increase  with  the  same  readi- 
ness. Some  must  be  propagated  by  cuttings,  some  by  layerings,  some  by 
grafting,  and  now  and  then  there  is  one  with  which  the  amateur  is  sure  to 
fail.  But  I  venture  to  assert  that,  with  the  great  majority  of  shrubs,  the 
beginner  will  find  but  little  difficulty.  As  a  rule,  I  have  found  it  best  to 
insert  the  cuttings  in  the  spring,  before  the  buds  have  started.  Most  hard- 
wood cuttings,  if  desired,  may  be  prepared  during  the  winter  and  placed 
in  the  cellar,  to  be  ready  to  plant  out  as  soon  as  the  grotmd  opens.  Cover 
the  bundles  with  a  thin  layer  of  soil,  if  the  cuttings  are  to  remain  in  the 
cellar  for  some  time,  to  prevent  drying.  Hydrangeas  and  some  other 
shrubs  can  be  rooted  as  late  as  June.  Willows  and  California  privet  will 
root  any  time  during  the  summer. 

Cuttings  should  be  made  from  four  to  six  inches  in  length,  and  if  possible 
should  be  inserted  in  a  moist  piece  of  ground.  They  may  be  placed  very 
close  together  in  rows  made  just  far  enough  apart  to  cultivate  easily.  At 
the  end  of  the  first  year  they  will  be  large  enough  to  transplant. 

Another  plant  that  bothered  me  at  first  was  the  hardy  rose.  I  tried 
cuttings  in  the  greenhouse  and  out,  and  in  all  seasons  of  the  year,  but  met 
with  indifferent  success.  At  last  I  put  cuttings  in  an  old  coldframe  that 
was  partly  open  to  the  weather.  During  the  winter  the  frame  was  frequently 
half  filled  with  snow,  but  the  next  spring  I  had  a  fine  lot  of  thrifty  young 
rose-bushes.  If  I  had  inserted  the  cuttings  early  in  the  spring,  before  the 
leaves  started,  I  think  they  would  have  done  just  as  well.  A  good  plan 
would  be  to  insert  rose-cuttings  between  the  rows  of  coldframe  cabbage 
and  cauliflower  plants.  It  would  save  space,  and  both  would  come  out 
in  the  best  of  condition  for  early  transplanting. 

These  examples,  I  hope,  will  show  that  any  one  with  patience  and  a 


82 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


little  money  can  provide  himself  with  choice  shrubbery  and  plants;  and 
there  is  a  fascination  in  propagating  plants  that  can  be  found  in  few  other 
pursuits.  I  doubt  if  the  merchant  watches  the  market  quotations  with  half 
the  pleasurable  interest  that  the  propagator  gives  to  the  outcome  of  some 
of  his  experiments.  Any  boy  or  girl  on  a  farm  could  have  a  small  nursery 
in  one  corner  of  the  garden.  It  would  be  a  constant  source  of  pleasure  and 
instruction,  and  with  little  trouble  could  be  made  to  yield  a  snug  income^ 


CHAPTER  IV.  TREES  FOR  THE  HOME  GROUNDS 

I.     Flowering   and    Ornamental   Trees 

By   O.    C.   Simonds 

O  BOOK  on  floriculture  can  be  complete  without  a  chapter  on 
trees.  Some  of  the  showiest  flowers  are  borne  on  small 
trees  which  are  suitable  for  gardens  of  moderate  size.  The 
foliage  of  trees  and  shrubs  is  indispensable  as  a  background 
for  flower  borders.  Trees  make  the  sky-line — an  important 
feature.  They  are  often  invaluable  as  windbreaks,  and  they  supply  shade 
and  retain  moisture — conditions  which  are  essential  to  the  life  of  some  of 
our  choicest  flowers. 

Who  has  not  seen  trees  so  profusely  covered  with  bloom  as  to  almost 
hide  the  branches  and  3'^oung  leaves  ?  Witness  the  plums  and  cherries, 
including  those  that  come  to  us  from  Japan;  thorn-apples,  comprising  the 
English  hawthorne  and  the  great  number  of  American  species,  all  varieties 
of  crab-apples,  and  ornamental  peaches.  With  them  naturally  go  Japanese 
quinces,  roses,  and  spireas.  3tlany  of  the  trees  mentioned  are  ornamental 
in  fruit  as  well  as  in  flower.  The  Juneberry  forms  a  connecting  link  between 
snowstorms  and  summer.  Its  pure  white  flowers  often  appear  in  contrast 
with  those  of  the  redbud.  The  flowering  dogwood  is  another  tree  noted 
for  its  bloom.  Some  of  the  willows  would  be  especially  appropriate  near  a 
bog  garden,  their  catkins  and  brightening  bark  frequently  making  the  first 
announcement  of  spring,  an  announcement  which  is  quick  to  be  repeated 
in  a  different  manner  by  the  song-sparrow  perched  on  one  of  its  branches. 
Trees  of  a  larger  size  noteworthy  for  their  flowers  are  the  red  maples,  the 
horse  chestnut,  the  catalpa,  the  linden,  and  the  locust.  The  sugar  maple 
and  Norway  maple  are  also  worthy  of  mention,  on  account  of  their  yellow 
flowers,  although  these  are  not  quite  so  rich  in  colour  as  those  of  the  maple 
first  mentioned.  The  flowers  of  some  of  the  trees  named  are  quite  fragrant 
wdien  in  bloom.  This  is  especially  true  of  the  common  locusts  and  lindens. 
The  tulip  tree,  with  its  large,  glossy  leaves  of  unique  shape,  is  in  full  summer 
attire  when  the  blossoms  appear,  and  the  latter  are  frequently  unnoticed, 

83 


84 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


although  they  are  quite  deserving  of  admiration.  With  the  tulip  tree 
should  be  mentioned  the  magnolias,  although  it  must  be  remembered  that 
there  are  many  places  in  the  United  States  where  these  do  not  thrive. 

But  trees  noted  for  their  blossoms  are  not  the  only  ones  that  are  suitable 
for  planting  about  a  flower  garden.  The  flower  garden  that  I  have  in  mind 
is  not  one  devoted  exclusively  to  the  raising  of  flowers  which  are  to  be  cut 
for  home  decoration,  and  which  should  be  planted  in  rows  and  beds  for  ease 
in  cultivation,  but  is  a  garden  arranged  primarily  to  show  a  beautiful  com- 
position in  which  flowers  appear  to  their  best  advantage,  because  they  have 


appear  are  the  tulips  of  tin 


Trees  for  the  Home  Grounds 


8s 


Examples  of  tree  covered  with  showy  flowers.    Magnolia 
stellata  ;  hardy  in  New  England  ;  blooms  in  April 


a  background  of  shrubs  and  trees.  A  single  tulip  appearing  against  the 
deep  shade  of  a  shrub  or  low-growing  tree  may  be  more  beautiful  than  a 
bed,  without  any  setting,  that  contains  hundreds  of  plants.  The  same  is 
true  of  a  group  of  trilliums 
growing  under  a  low-branching 
linden,  or  a  showy  lady's-slipper 
in  the  shade  of  a  white  pine.  I 
have  in  mind  a  low-branched  soft 
maple  where  the  ground  under- 
neath is  carpeted  with  wild  violets ; 
an  elm  about  whose  buttressed 
trunk  is  a  thick  growth  of  white 
adder-tongues,  and  a  beech  shad- 
ing a  beautiful  group  of  ferns. 
One  can  imagine  a  beautiful  fall 
picture  where  a  pepperidge  tree, 
which  has  quite  inconspicuous 
flowers,  but  has  an  autumn  foliage 
more  brilliant  than  that  of  our 
other  native  trees,  serves  as  a  background  for  sunflowers,  golden-rods^ 
and  asters.      Such  would  indeed  be  a  beautiful  picture. 

The  brilliant  colouring  which  the  foHage  of  certain  trees  takes  on  in 
autumn  is  usually  more  satisfactory  than  that  of  such  trees  as  the  purple- 
leaved  plum  and  the  purple-leaved  beech,  which  retain  their  peculiar  colouring 
during  the  entire  season.  Care  should  be  taken  not  to  use  too  many  trees 
whose  foliage  is  abnormal  either  in  colour  or  shape.  The  leaves  of  our 
common  trees  present  a  wonderfully  varied  assortment  of  green,  the  most 
restful  and  satisfactory  of  all  colours.  No  colour  makes  a  better  foil  for 
a  flower,  whether  it  is  seen  out-of-doors  or  as  a  bit  of  table  decoration.  One 
can  seldom  make  a  mistake,  therefore,  in  selecting  native  American  trees 
for  planting  about  a  flower  garden.  The  list  of  these  might  be  enlarged 
by  adding  Norway  and  sycamore  maples,  the  European  bird  cherry,  and 
any  other  foreign  trees  which  harmonise  with  our  own.  The  European 
cut-leaved  birch  is  a  beautiful  tree,  but  it  seems  to  me  that  its  place  is  on 
a  lawn  just  in  front  of  a  group  of  pines.  When  planted  with  flowers,  it 
would  seem  to  be  competing  with  them  for  admiration,  instead  of  helping 
them  by  making  an  effective  contrast.     If  the  purple-leaved  tree  is  used, 


86 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


my  preference  would  be  to  place  it  in  the 
background,  with  some  low,  green  foliage 
between  it  and  the  herbaceous  plants.  I  con- 
fess that  I  have  not  much  love  for  the  golden- 
leaved  varieties  of  trees,  as  they  always 
remind  me  of  sickly  specimens.  As  for 
deciduous  trees,  they  should  be  planted  just 


Hooker's  hemlock  (Tsuga  Hookerii),  showing 
the  light-green  tips  of  the  new  growth.  All 
conifers  are  particularly  beautiful  at  this 
stage 

after  the  leaves  drop  in  the  fall, 
or  soon  after  the  frost  comes  out 
of  the  ground  in  the  spring. 
They  may  be  obtained  of  small 
size  from  reliable  nurserymen, 
or  sometimes  of  larger  size  from 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  place 
to  be  planted.  The  hole  in 
which  the  tree  is  to  be  placed 
should  be  considerably  larger 
than  the  space  occupied  by  its 
roots,  unless  the  whole  space  has 
been  recently  filled  or  deeply 
plowed  or  trenched.  Usually 
a  tree,  especially  a  tree  of  large 
size,   should  be  planted  a  little 


The  Colorado  blue  spruce  is  often  seen  in  flower  gardens 


Trees  for  the  Home  Grounds 


87 


higher  than  it  stood  before  moving,  as  the  ground  will  settle,  and  a 
tree  looks  better  springing  from  a  slight  mound  than  it  does  rising  from  a 
hollow.  The  mound  might  indeed  be  extended  into  a  ridge,  receding  where 
there  are  bays,  but  coming  forward  and  helping  give  emphasis  to  the  points, 
so  that  the  flower  garden  would  occupy 
a  gentle  valley.  At  the  time  of  planting, 
the  ends  of  the  roots  should  be  cut 
smooth  and  the  space  between  them 
carefully  filled  in  with  good  friable  soil, 
and  this  should  be  thoroughly  compacted 
by  pounding.  If  the  soil  is  light  or 
sandy,  a  stream  of  water  from  a  garden 
hose  will  sometimes  be  useful  in  settling 
and  packing  it.  It  is  also  usually  well 
to  cut  off  say  two-thirds  of  the  last 
year's  growtli  of  branches.  Do  not  dis- 
figure a  tree  by  cutting  off  large  limbs 
or  "topping"  it.  Do  not  attempt  to 
have  too  great  a  variety  of  trees.  It 
is  frequently  desirable  to  make  a  specialty 
of  one  kind  of  tree — for  instance,  the 
thorn-apple — using  it  abundantly,  and 
having  comparatively  few  trees  of  other 
kinds.  In  this  way  one  garden  ma>- 
be  given  a  character  that  will  distinguish 
it  from  others.  I  know  of  one  flower 
garden  that  is  being  formed  in  an 
opening  between  groups  of  oaks,  and 
no  other  trees  will  be  planted. 

Trees  not  only  furnish  a  back- 
ground for  the  shrubs  and  flowers,  but 
they  make  a  boundary  for  the  sky.  This  fact  should  be  borne  in  mind  in 
the  selection  of  kinds  and  in  deciding  on  their  arrangement.  It  is  desirable 
to  have  a  large  sky  space,  and  this  space  outlined  by  the  trees  should  have 
a  shape  as  informal  as  the  shape  of  a  cloud.  The  trees  should  also  be  chosen 
with  reference  to  the  size  of  the  garden.  For  a  small  flower  garden  only 
shrubs  should  be  used  as  a  boundary,  or  perhaps  there  might  be  a  single 


Large   trees  can  now   be  transplanted   by  experts 
during  every  month  in  the  year 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


\ 

\ 

-  -^ 

>^ 

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A/. 

--  A"''' 

^lT^ 

^r    y 

~~^-i®^ 

j^Wfa 

ZiX^  ^  ' 

^^^'j 

^i^sA^  :^^' 

^^^S^hJE 

^S^^'sJS 

^^SIUJls 

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^^^^^3""1-W!!^ 

't'f^5« 


wsm 


,^v,|^si;  Hit^'^' 


A  wild  plum  (Prunus  Americana; 


The  pepperidge,  extravagant  in  horizontal  branches 

TREES  IN  WINTER,  SHOWING  THE  BEAUTY 


Trees  for  the  Home  Grounds 


89 


>f-m 


The  native  white  birch  of  New  England 
AND   VARIETY  OF  THEIR  BRANCHES 


90 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


tree  or  a  group  of  trees  on  the 
north  side.  For  a  large  garden, 
trees  might  be  used  on  every  side, 
since  in  that  case  there  would  be 
plenty  of  space  along  the  north 
boundary  for  plants  that  delight 
in  sunshine,  or  the  outline  could  be 
varied  by  planting  crab-apples  in 
one     place     and     oaks    in    another. 


Swamp  white  oak  (Quercus  bieolor) 

In  such  a  garden  it  will  generally  be 
found  that  an  irregular  boundary  is 
the  most  pleasing.  Such  an  arrangement 
gives  shady  bays,  with  projecting  points 
that  catch  the  sunshine  and  give  char- 
acter to  the  picture. 

The  effect  desired  will  not  be  pro- 
duced in  a  single  year.  The  ground 
about  the  trees  and  shrubs  will  need 
cultivation  until  these  are  well  estab- 
lished. It  would  be  well  if  this  planting 
could  be  done  a  year  or  two  in  advance 
of    the    planting    of    flowers.     After  the 


W^^ff^  je^^«<  "'^'^->  .^F* 

feii*t^ 

1 

No  winter  scene  is  perfect  without  the  evergreens 


Trees    for    the    Home    Grounds 


91 


trees  are  established  they  may  grow  more  rapidly  than  was  expected, 
so  that  soon  the  problem  of  cutting  away  branches  or  even  whole  trees 
presents  itself.  A  garden  is  not  hke  a  house,  since  it  is  continually 
growing,  and  one  must  live  with  it  and  study  it  in  order  to  be  able  to  train 
it  m  the  way  it  should  go.  When  a  branch  is  to  be  cut,  saw  it  off  next 
to  the  trunk  or  next  to  the  larger  branch  from  which  it  springs.  If  a 
tree   must   be   removed,    see   that   this   is   done  before  it  injures  the  trees 


The  dead  and   weak   limh';  in   every   negleeied  tree-top  a;  e  the  best  of  argument    for  frequent  pruning. 
If  the  weakest  competitors  in  the  tree-top  are  not  removed.  Nature  prunes  them  in  her  own  way 


around  it.  Sometimes  it  will  be  desirable  to  retain  a  group  of  trees  in 
which,  although  the  trees  crowd  each  other,  the  effect  of  the  whole 
is  satisfactory. 

In  conclusion,  I  think  of  the  ideal  flower  garden  occupying  a  valley  or 
a  depressed  space  of  ground,  usually  protected  on  all  sides,  with  the  exception 
of  that  toward  the  house,  by  a  woody  gro\vth,  this  growth  to  vary  in  size 
from  that  of  the  smallest  shrubs  to  that  of  the  largest  trees,  the  latter,  of 
course,  being  used  only  in  a  very  large  garden.  This  border  of  woody 
growth  will  form  a  frame  or  setting  for  the  flowers,  shielding  the  sun  from 


92 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


ferns  and  other  shade-loving  plants  in  one  place,  giving  the  flowers  the 
advantage  of  his  rays  in  another,  and  protecting  everything  from  the  driving 
winds.  A  flower  garden  can  only  be  perfectly  satisfactory  when  the  flowers 
are  in  comfortable  places — that  is,  when  they  have  sufficient  sunlight, 
shade,  moisture,  dryness,  and  protection  from  wind,  and  some  of  these 
comforts  the  trees  will  help  to  give. 


II.     Some   Weeping   Trees 


By  W.  C.   Egan 

While  weeping  trees  have  their  proper  place  in  arboriculture,  they  never 
possess  the  stateliness  and  grandeur  of  their  upright  progenitors.  Being 
abnormal  forms,  we  do  not  look  for  such  attributes,  and  are  therefore 
prepared  for  the  weird  and  fantastic  shapes  that  some  assume,  and  for  the 
formalities  of  others.  There  are  certain  situations  in  which  the  weird  forms 
are  appropriate,  and  the  formal  kinds  are  well  suited  to  arbours. 

The  common  notion  that  weeping  trees  are  produced  by  grafting  ordinary 
trees  with  buds  inserted  upside  down  is  quite  absurd.  Weeping  forms 
have  been  originated  by  nature  and  are  perpetuated  by  man.  One  seedling 
out  of  many  thousands,  instead  of  producing  a  tree  of  normal  upright  growth, 

assumes  the  pendulous  habit. 
If  this  happens  in  an  unexplored 
region,  it  lives  its  allotted  term 
of  life  unobserved,  and  its  pecu- 
liarities pass  away  at  its  death, 
as  it  seldom  reproduces  its  char- 
acteristics in  its  offspring.  One 
branch,  or  even  a  twig,  of  a  tree 
otherwise  normal  in  its  structure, 
may  assume  a  weeping  tendency, 
and  it,  too,  dies  with  the  parent 
tree.  This  departure  from  a  type 
is  found,  not  only  in  the  form  of 
branch  and  twig,  but  also  in  a  change  in  the  colour  or  shape  of  the  leaf, 
as  in  the  golden  elder  and  cut -leaf  maple.  Some  of  these  variations  come 
from   seed;  others    are  "sports."     Man  observes  these  idiosyncrasies,  and 


Young's  weeping  bii 


Trees  for  the  Home  Grounds 


93 


^^f J^ 

1 

1    ^ 

^v- 

m 

mm 

rM,r. 

^^^. 

>  . 

Tea's  weeping  mulberry,  forming  an 
arbor  (see  picture  below) 


perpetuates  those   that    please   his   fancy   by  grafting,  budding  or  rooting. 

In  most  instances,   the  budding  or  grafting  is  on  the  trunk  of  an  upright 

form  of  the  same  or  an  alHed  species. 

In  Salix  Bahylonica,  a  native  of  the  Levant, 

we  have    a  weeping  tree  that  in  the  seventeenth 

century  was  supposed  to  be  the  willow  mentioned 

in   the    137th   Psalm,  upon  which  the  sorrowing 

captive  Jews  hung  their  harps.     It  thus  became 

the  typical  tree  of  sorrow. 

This    tree    is    not    generally    hardy    in    the 

northern    States,    but    the  late  Thomas   Meehan 

had  called  attention  to  a  sport  from  it  originat- 
ing   upon    the   grounds   of    Mr.    T.    C.    Thurlow, 

West  Newbury,  Massachusetts,  of  a  more  upright 
form,  that  has  proved 
hardy  there  and  at  the 
experiment     station    in 

Nebraska.  There  is,  however,  a  substitute  for  it 
in  the  Wisconsin  weeping  willow,  a  tree  whose  origin 
is  clouded  in  mystery.  It  is  suitable  only  in  large 
grounds,  where  ample  room  may  be  devoted  to  it. 
The  willow  has  given  us  another  handsome 
v/eeping  form  in  Salix  purpurea,  var.  pendnla,  the 
purple  osier  of  Europe,  which  is  in  reality  a  broad, 
spreading,  decumbent  shrub,  often  nearly  ten  feet 
high.  This,  when  grafted  on  an  upright  trunk,  is 
known  in  our  catalogues  as  "The  New  American 
Weeper,"  and  is  one  of  the  most  graceful  of  the 
smaller  pendulous  trees.  The  grayish-olive  tone  of 
its  leafage  renders  it  an  admirable  subject  to  be 
placed  well  to  the  front,  where  a  foil  of  dark-green 
foliage  makes  it  a  conspicuous,  though  generally 
harmonious,  object. 

Undoubtedly  the  loveliest  of  all  hardy  weeping 

trees  is  the  cut -leaved  weeping  birch  when  at  its  maturity,  but  unfortunately, 

in  most  sections,  it  dies  at  the  top  before  reaching  an  age  when  it  displays 

its  pendulous  growth  to  the  best  advantage. 


ing  mulberry  on 
own  roots 


94 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


Camperdown  elm 


Next  to  it,  perhaps,  is  the  weeping  beech,  which  in  its  youth  is  almost 
painful  to  look  upon,  but  when  time  has  clothed  its  trunk  with  numerous 
tortuous  branches  assumes  a  form  that  presents  a  tumbhng,  waving  mass 

of  f  oHage  which  in  some  specimens 
is  grand  and  imposing.  No  one 
can  form  any  idea  of  the  ultimate 
shape  this  tree  will  assume.  It 
seems  to  change  its  mind  with  each 
season's  growth,  and  may  eventu- 
ally form  a  specimen  weirdly  grand 
or  grotesquely  absurd. 

These  same  remarks  apply 
with  even  more  force  to  the  weep- 
ing Norway  spruce.  This,  when 
seen  in  the  dim  twilight,  with  its 
dark  evergreen  foliage  hanging  in  clotted  masses,  suggests  the  uncouth 
denizens  of  the  paleozoic  forest. 

In  Young's  weeping  birch  is  a  fantastic  form    well    adapted    to    small 
grounds,  but   in  this    case,   also,  it   is   a   question  of  time  as  to  whether  it 
will    develop    into    being    a    pleasing    form    or    not.     The    weeping    larch 
is  another  tree  of  curious   growth, 
requiring   age   before    it    may   be 
admired  in  all  its  beauty. 

One  of  the  best-known  weep- 
ing trees  is  the  Camperdown  elm, 
a  typical  grafted  variety  whose 
hardiness  is  unquestioned.  While 
of  comparatively  slow  growth, 
it  forms  in  time,  and  in  good 
ground,  a  most  suitable  arbour. 
A  well-grown  specimen  will  droop 
to  the  ground  and  form  an  en- 
closure twenty  or  more  feet  in 
diameter,     producing      a      dense, 

agreeable  shade,  handsome  when  in  flower,  and  again  when  in  leaf. 
When  planting  this  elm,  it  is  well  to  remember  that  the  doorway 
to     the     natural     arbour     it     will    form     will     be    between     some     two 


The  Wisconsin  weeping  willow 


Trees  for  the  Home  Grounds 


95 


of  its  main,  spreading  branches,  and  care  should  be  exercised  that  this 
opening  will  look  out  upon  a  pleasing  vista. 

The  weeping  ash,  where  it  does  well  and  is  grafted  high  enough,  forms 
a  splendid  arbour  much  sooner  than  the  Camperdown  elm,  but  it  seems 
more  adapted  to  its  English  home  than  to  our  climate. 

Tea's  weeping  mulberry,  of  comparatively  recent  introduction,  is  one 
of  the  fastest  growers  of  them  all,  and  naturally  forms  a  narrow  arbour. 
The  new  growth  starts  out  from  the  upper  part  of  the  present  branches, 
arches  slightly, 
and  then  hangs 
down  straight. 
These  new 
branches  rob 
the  inner  ones 
o  f  light  and 
air,  causing 
their  decay 
and  death, 
but  the  new 
branches  are 
annually  in- 
creasing the 
spread  of  the 
top,  a  n  d  in 
time    form    an      \ 

arbour.         In  The  glittering  raiment  of  soft  snow 

order  to  hasten 

the  formation  of  a  fair-sized  arbour,  cut  the  head  well  back,  in  the  spring 
or  at  the  time  of  planting,  fasten  an  iron  ring  or  wooden  hoop  under  the 
outer  rim  of  the  head,  and  train  the  branches  out  laterally  for  two 
seasons.  The  hoop  should  be  wTapped  with  burlaps  to  prevent  chafing, 
and  the  branches  tied  to  it. 

Weeping  mulberries  are  grafted  on  upright  forms.  An  illustration  is 
given  (page  93)  of  this  tree,  growing  on  its  own  roots,  where  the  branches 
droop  from  the  trunk  all  the  way  up.  It  is  not  a  thing  of  beauty,  but  of 
curiosity.  Had  it  not  been  supported  from  the  time  of  planting  it  would 
be  sprawling  upon  the  ground.     In  planting  a  weeping  tree  to  form   an 


96 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


arbour,  one  must  procure  a  specimen  grafted  at  least  six  to  seven  feet  high 
m  order  to  obtain  sufficient  head  room. 

The  gem  among  the  flowering  weepers  is  the  Japanese  rose-flowered 
weeping  cherry,  which,  in  early  spring,  and  before  the  leaves  appear,  is  a 
fleecy,  feathery  mass  of  bloom,  completely  covering  every  part,  swaying 
with  the  wmds,  and  hiding  its  nakedness  while  putting  on  its  summer  foliage. 


CHAPTER  V.      VINES  AND  CREEPERS 

I.     Select   List   of   Vines 

By  W.  C.   Egan 

HERE  are  so  many  kinds  of  vines  excellent  in  foliage,  flower, 
and  berry,  and  so  many  effective  ways  of  growing  them, 
that  one  is  often  at  a  loss  what  to  choose  and  how  to  pro- 
ceed. My  first  choice  for  a  permanent  covering  of  porch 
pillars  is  the  Japanese  Akehia  quinata.  Its  good  points  are: 
freedom  from  the  attacks  of  worms  or  caterpillars  (whose  acrobatic  feats 
of  dropping  from  an  unknown  height  and  landing  upon  one's  neck  I  do 
not  enjoy),  the  early  unfolding  of  its  leaves,  the  lateness  of  their  reten- 
tion, and  the  delicate  silhouettes  its  five-fingered  leaflets  form  agamst 
a  moonlit  sky.  This  vine  is  quite  hardy,  and  a  rapid  grower  when  once 
established  in  good  light  soil.  Its  flowers,  appearing  in  early  spring,  are 
more  curious  than  attractive,  being  small  and  spicily  fragrant.  It  seldom 
fruits  in  this  country.  It  is  a  social  vine,  allowing  friendly  neighbours 
to  encroach  upon  its  rights  without  apparent  injury  to  itself. 

The  main  vine  embowering  my  porch  is  the  Akebia,  which  is  planted 
at  the  base  of  the  pillars.  Between  these  pillars  the  large-flowered  species 
of  clematis  are  freely  used,  but  I  also  grow  Clematis  Flamnmla  for  its  fleece- 
white  bloom  in  midsummer,  and  moderately  young  plants  of  Clematis 
paniciilata  for  the  same  effect  in  early 
autumn.  Both  of  these  are  cut  back 
when  through  blooming — at  least,  any 
portion  of  them  that  may  have  grown 
over  the  face  of  the  Akebia,  since  I 
wish  to  allow  the  latter  to  enjoy  full 
possession  of  sunlight  and  air  part  of 
its  growing  season.  Clematis  Flammiila 
is  never  a  very  strong  vine  with  me,  and 
when  the  paniculata  gets  too  rampant 
it   is   removed. 

97 


Virginia  creeper 


98 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


My  next  favourite  of  the  hard-wooded  vines  (those  that  do  not  die  back 
in  winter)  is  also  a  Japanese  plant— Celastrus  orbiciilatus,  a  relative  of  our 
bittersweet.     It  is  not  adapted  to  porch    decoration,  as  its  long,  waving, 

semipendant 
arms  are  too 
vigorous  and 
rampant,  and 
would  be  seri- 
ously in  the 
way,  but  for 
arbours  or 
large  arches  it 
i  s  admirable. 
While  its 
foliage  is  good 
at  all  times,  its 
chief  beauty  is 
its  berried 
effect  in  late 
autumn  and 
throughout 
the  winter 
months,  just 
at  the  time 
when  the 
echoes  of  the 
summer  glories 
are  most  wel- 
come. Fortu- 
nately (for  me, 

at  least),  where  the  ravine-nested  birds  are  so  numerous,  its  berries  are 
unmolested  by  the  feathered  tribe,  and  remain  pendant  all  winter,  like 
coral  beads  floating  in  the  air.  In  this  species  they  are  more  numerous 
than  in  its  American  relative,  C.  scaiideus.  I  imagine  the  Japanese  form 
to  be  the  stronger  grower  of  the  two. 

An  effective  way  to  grow  the  American  bittersweet  is  to  allow  it  to 
twine  around  an  iron  rod.     I  use  a  three-inch  iron  pipe,  set  in  a  block  of 


Vines  overrun  it  on  all  sides,  and 


spacious  verandas  into  avenues  of  shade 


Vines  and  Creepers  loi 

cement  at  the  bottom  of  the  hole,  to  steady  it  against  heavy  winds.  Its 
effect  in  winter,  when  in  its  berry  garb,  is  fine.  These  vines  are  very 
accommodating  as  to  situation,  thriving  in  full  sunshine  or  partial  shade. 

The  Virginia  creeper  {Ampelopsis  quinqiiefolia)  of  our  woods,  which 
colours  so  beautifully  in  the  fall,  is  best  placed  upon  your  neighbour's  gate- 
posts or  your  bam,  where  you  may  admire  it  at  a  distance,  and  where  the 
caterpillar  may  feed  upon  its  leaves  and  not  become  familiar  with  and  attached 
to  you.  Or  it  may  cHmb  up  the  trunk  of  defunct  oaks,  or  any  large  tree, 
where  it  may  hang  in  festoons  from  the  lower  branches.  Young  trees  should 
not  be  used  for  this  purpose,  as  they  are  apt  to  be  smothered  and  eventually 
killed.  Sometimes  a  boulder  can  be  partially  covered  by  a  Virginia  creeper 
with  good  effect. 

The  honeysuckles  are  excellent  to  cover  wire  fences,  or  for  grouping 
on  sunny  slopes  and  then  allowed  to  bunch  and  trail  at  their  own  sweet  will. 

The  Dutchman's-pipe,  in  sections  where  it  does  well,  is  a  clean,  vigorous- 
looking  vine,  with  heavy  overlapping  foliage,  bearing  flowers  which  are 
tantalising  to  one  who  has  recently  sworn  off  smoking. 

The  trumpet  creeper  is  suitable  for  training  against  a  clothes-line  post. 
It  should  be  pinched  back  when  it  reaches  the  top ;  it  will  then  form  a  shrub - 
like  head.  Or  it  may  be  allowed  to  climb  up  into  some  large  tree  and  roam 
around  its  branches. 

The  two  matrimony  vines,  Lyciiim  Chinense  and  L.  barbatitm,  may  be 
used  with  eff'ect  on  low  trellises.  The  first-named  is  the  finer  in  berry,  but 
near  Chicago  L.  barbatitm  is  the  stronger  grower. 

The  moonseed  makes  a  good  cover  for  clothes-line  posts,  but,  if  recent 
reports  are  true,  its  berries  are  poisonous  to  children. 

The  Boston  ivy  is  too  well  known  to  mention.  It  is  the  best  of  all 
vines  for  house- walls  in  America. 

Where  artificial  supports  are  given  to  a  vine,  let  them  be  of  a  permanent 
nature,  such  as  iron  rods  or  gas  pipes.  Perishable  trellises  generally  look 
limp  and  intoxicated  by  the  time  the  vines  are  luxuriously  developed  and 
approach  our  ideal  of  vine  beauty.  It  is  also  demoralising  to  see  them 
sprawling  upon  the  ground  after  some  wind-storm. 

It  is  often  desirable  to  close  the  end  of  a  porch-opening,  either  to 
shield  from  public  view,  to  shut  out  the  sun,  or  to  hide  an  unpleasant  aspect. 
This  is  easily  accomplished  by  planting  thickly  and  supporting  the  vines 
on  light  iron  framework. 


I02 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


II.   A   Convenient   Classification   of  Vines 
By  J.  A.  R. 


A  pergola  at  Riltmore 


What  vines  shall  we  grow?     This  will  depend  chiefly  on  location  and 
aspect,  but  to  a  considerable  extent  also  on  the  character  of  the  object  to 

be  covered,  whether  of  brick,  stone 
or  wood.  Vines  may  be  roughly 
classified  by  their  manner  or  habit 
of  growing. 

I .  Twiners.  In  this  group 
belongs  the  native  bittersweet 
{Celastrus  scandens),  which  has 
incon  :picuous  flowers,  but  bright 
orange  capsules  with  ccarlet  berries 
inside.  Long  strings  of  bittersweet 
are  often  used  for  home  decoration. 
as  the  berries  last  all  winter.  The 
plant  is  hardy  everywhere,  and  is  desirable  for  covering  low  objects  or 
latticed  verandas.  The  Dutchman 's-pipe  is  a  rapid  grower,  and  can 
stand  thirty  degrees  below  zero.  It  has  large,  heart-shaped  leaves  and  odd 
flowers.  The  native  and  Japanese  hop  belong  to  this  class ;  also  moonseed. 
Actinidias  are  attractive  twiners,  free  from  insect  diseases,  and  useful 
for  covering  arbours. 

2.  Climbing  by  discs.  Here  belong-^  the  Anipelopsis  Veitchii,  com- 
monly called  ampelopsis,  Boston 
ivy,  or  Japan  ivy.  This  is  b;  long 
odds  the  most  popular  vine  for 
stone  or  brick  walls.  It  reaches  a 
great  height,  colouring  be:  utifully 
in  autumn.  There  i  a  form  of 
the  Virginia  creeper  which  has 
discs  instead  of  tendrils;  the 
nurserymen  s„ll  It,  and  it  is  some- 
times foimd  wild. 

3 .  Climbing    by     tendrils    or 

-r^,.,.  /TT1  \  Arbour  covered  by  one  of  the  matrimony  vines, 

aenal  roots.     English  ivy  (Hedera)  Lycium  barbatum 


B^  '  /■  -  , 

mm 

B|ti%^»^''---' 

1 

Vines  and  Creepers 


103 


W.  C.   Egan's 


is  a  slow  grower,  but  lives  long. 
It  is  practically  our  only  evergreen 
climber,  though  Hall's  honeysuckle 
holds  its  leaves  well  into  winter. 
English  ivy  succeeds  on  north  and 
east  brick  or  stone  walls  in  central 
New  York;  farther  north  it  is 
likely  to  winter-kill.  The  trumpet 
creeper  (Tecoma)  also  climbs  by 
aerial  roots.  It  reaches  the  top  of 
tall  buildings,  but  it  is  more  suit- 
able for  lower  stories.  In  its  way- 
ward, strolling  habit  there  is  much 

that  is  artistic.  If  one  would  have  bloom,  annual  spring  pruning  is  desirable. 
4.   Reqviiring  support.     Among  the  numerous  vines  of    this    class    are 

clematis,     notably     C.     Jachiuam 

and    C.    paniculata.      They    climb 

fairly    well    after    receiving    some 

encouragement,  and  are  attractive 

in    fruit    as    well     as     in    flower. 

Honeysuckles    and  roses  are 

general  favourites.     The  evergreen 

character    of    some    types    of   the 

former,    and  the  free-blooming 

habits    of    the    ramblers    and 

Wichuraianas,  make  them  favour- 
ites   with    rich    and     poor    alike. 

The  matrimony  vine  {Lyciiim  har- 

batum)    has    neither    tendrils    nor    twining    habit,    but    when    trained    to 

supports  on  a  veranda  the  general  effect  is  gracefully  artistic.     Nor  should 

we  overlook  the  wistaria,  richly  tropic  in  the  luxuriance  of  its  flowers. 


Ampelopsis  on  a  wall 


III.    Some    Pumpkins 

By  William   Chambers  Wilbor 

Having    experienced    in    former    years     the    advantage    of    framing 
pumpkins  on  poles  and  trees,  I  determined  last  spring  to  build  a  trellis  over 


I04 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


the  kitchen  door,  on  the  south  side  of  the  house,  for  shade,    ornament  and 
fruitfulness,  and  I  was  much  pleased  with  the  beautiful  effect. 

I  planted  the  seeds  of  the  small  pie  pumpkin  in  a  box,  in  the  house, 
early  in  April,  and  they  were  almost  ready  to  run  when  I  set  them  in  the 

ground  about  the  first  of  June. 
Five  plants  were  set  out  a  foot 
apart  on  each  side  of  the  steps. 

I  spaded  deep  into  the  rich 
soil,  and  powdered  it  fine,  leaving 
a  saucer-shaped  depression  in  the 
ground  about  the  plants  so  that 
the  moisture  would  settle  around 
the  roots  and  not  run  off. 

Three  or  four  times  during  the 
season  I  stirred  the  soil  thoroughly 
with  the  hoe,  and  watered  the 
vines  with  liquid  fertiliser  from 
the  stable.  A  more  interesting 
subject  for  nature-study  I  have 
never  had.  My  vines  grew  about 
six  inches  a  day,  and  every  few 
days  I  found  it  necessary  to  tie 
the  sprays  to  the  wires   and   slats 

Pumpkin  vine  at  the  back  door  ^^   ^j^^    arbOUr. 

In  a  few  weeks  they  had  reached  the  top  of  the  trellis,  and  formed  a 
canopy  of  shade  so  dense  that  the  sun  could  not  shine  through,  even  in  spots. 
The  leaves  grew  so  large  that  they  resembled  palm  leaf  fans,  and  the 
scores  of  rich  golden  blossoms,  opening  every  day  during  the  summer, 
were  wonderful  to  behold.  The  pumpkin  arbour  became  the  admiration 
of  the  whole  neighbourhood.  Seven  golden  pumpkins  ripened  and  were 
duly  made  into  pies. 

I  learned  several  interesting  and  profitable  lessons  from  my  experiment. 

1 .  That  no  plant  or  vine  grows  more  rapidly,  or  makes  a  more 
luxuriant,  tropical,  and  dense  shade,  than  the  pumpkin  vine. 

2.  The  tendrils  are  so  strong  that,  after  they  have  made  a  dozen 
tight  coils  about  a  wire  or  around  each  other,  they  become  almost 
as  tough  as  the  wire  itself. 


Vines  and  Creepers 


105 


3 .  Pumpkin  vines  possess  remarkable  vitality.  One  stem  was  crushed 
underfoot  and  held  together  by  only  a  few  fibers,  but  I  bound  it  tightly 
together  with  a  strip  of  muslin,  and  it  climbed  to  the  top  of  the  frame  and 
bore  a  ripe  pumpkin ;  another  branch  was  broken  more  than  half  in  two,  but 
it  grew  right  on  and  bore  fruit. 

4 .  The  male  and  female  blossoms  were  also  an  interesting  study.  The 
former  were  very  numerous,  and  bloomed  at  the  end  of  long,  slender  stems, 
while  the  latter  grew  on  stout,  thick  stems,  with  embryo  pumpkins  well 
formed  back  of  the  blossoms  before  they  opened. 

5 .  The  fruit  grew  in  greater  profusion,  ripened  more  perfectly,  and 
had  a  better  flavour  than  when  it  grows  on  the  ground. 

6 .  Though  the  bugs  were  very  troublesome  last  summer,  and  destroyed 
almost    all    of    the    pumpkin    and 
squash    vines   in  our  vicinity,  my 
climbing  vines  were  not  molested 
by  them. 

7 .  It  was  very  entertaining 
to  watch  the  ripening  of  the 
pumpkins.  At  first,  small  round 
spots  or  stars  of  yellow  appeared 
on  the  surface.  Then  followed  an 
intricate  tracery  of  yellow  lace, 
woven  by  Nature's  skillful  yet 
invisible  fingers  upon  the  ground- 
work of  deep  green,  which  grew 
brighter  and  more  distinct  from 
day  to  day,  tmtil  the  whole  orl) 
of  emerald  turned  to  a  globe  of 
gold,  and  by  the  sun  became  a 
sun  in  miniature  by  other  suns 
surrounded,  in  the  zenith  of  our 
arbour's  sky,  and  the  fruit  of  the  pumpkin  tree  was  ripe  and  ready 
for  the  harvest. 

8.  It  is  worth  while  to  examine  the  commonest  plants,  especially  the 
vegetables,  with  reference  to  new  combinations  of  use  and  beauty.  Take 
rhubarb,  for  instance.  Unlike  many  of  the  foreign  things  that  are  wanted 
for  broad-leaved  effects  in  the  hardy  border,  it  is  sure  to  grow. 


io6 


H( 


to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


IV.    Annual  Vines  to  Conceal  Rubbish 
By   "  The   Fullertons  " 

There  is  nothing  that  wih  impro^^e  a  place  more  than  having  the  garbage, 
ashes  and  trash  out  of  sight,  especially  if  the  place  be  small  and  in  the 
suburbs.  When  we  moved  just  out  of  New  York  City,  early  in  Way  of  one 
year,  we  decided  we  should  make  the  hiding  of  these  unsightly  cans 
our  chief  aim  of  the  garden  that  year. 

To  begin  with,  we  purchased  two  corrugated  galvanised  iron  ash  barrels 
and  one  garbage  can.  These  we  painted  a  gray  green,  then  placed  them 
in  a  pen  back  of  the  grape  arbour.  Along  the  back  of  the  pen  there  was 
a  very  pretty  arbour-vitae  hedge,  which  helped  us  greatly  in  our  scheme. 
The  sides  of  the  pen  were  made  of  chicken  wire,  and  on  one  of  these  sides 
we  planted  climbing  nasturtiums,  and  on  the  other  ornamental  gourds,  wild 
cucumber  vine,  and   castor-oil  bean.     Along  the  hedge  on  each  side  were 


Unsightly  objects  screened  bv  wild  cucumber  and  nasturtiun. 


Vines  and  Creepers 


107 


sunflowers,  which,  when  they  grew  to  a  height  of  ten  feet,  drew  attention 
from  anything  below.  We  led  the  gourd  and  cucumber  over  to  the  grape 
arbour  some  distance  away,  also  along  the  clothes-lines  and  posts.  This 
almost  made  a  roof,  and  draped  the  front  of  the  pen  so  prettily  that  the 
objects  inside  were  hardly  noticeable  at  all. 

The  wild  cucumber  is  one  of  the  most  useful  and  ornamental  of  the 
annual  climbers.  It  has  an  extremely  pretty  leaf  and  feathery  white  flowers, 
while  the  large  oval  seed-pod  is  covered  with  spines.  It  drops  its  seed  very 
abundantly,  and  will  reappear  year  after  year. 


A  pergola  in  a  formal  garden  at  Brookline 


V.     Pergolas — ^A  Suggestion 


By  "M." 

The  word  "pergola"  is  in  common  use  to-day,  yet  you  will  not  find  it 
in  the  International  Dictionary,  unless  in  some  very  recent  edition.  A  pergola 
might  be  defined  as  a  sort  of  glorified  grape  arbour.  The  only  difterence 
is  that  a  pergola  is  usually  a  costlier  structure,  and  is  supposed  to  be  beautiful 
in  itself.  Also,  it  may  be  covered  with  any  kind  of  vine,  not  merely  the 
grape,  as  it  is  erected  to  display  the  beauty  of  lines  and  of  foliage  and  of 
flower,  the  item  of  fruit  being  wholly  incidental.  The  old-fashioned  grape 
arbour  was  a  shady  retreat  where  the  housewife  might  sew  in  peace,  and 


io8 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


a  deal  of  courting  has  been  done  under  its  gracious  protection.  The  ordinary 
grape  arbour,  however,  is  a  rather  flimsy  structure,  which  gives  way  under 
the  eager  feet  of  the  small  boys  who  steal  over  the  back  fence  the  first  day 
the  green  grapes  begin  to  purple.  In  the  winter  its  frame  is  usually  gaunt 
and  cheerless.  The  pergola,  however,  is  the  delight  of  American  architects 
to-day,  and  no  great  estate  is  complete  without  one — at  least,  wherever 
formal  gardening  is  anything  of  a  feature.  There  is  a  beautiful  pergola 
at  Arlington,  near  the  nation's  capital,  where  one  may  rest  and  ponder 
rpon  the  great  spectacle  of  the  army  of  the  dead. 

VI.    A   Bit   of   Nature's   Gardening 

By    W.   C.   S. 

The   picture   below  shows  .  an   old,    long-abandoned   flour-mill  in  the 
beautiful  valley  of  St.  Helena,  Napa  County,  California.     At  certain  times 


A  bit  of  Nature's  gardening — an  abandoned  mill  covered  by  native  vines 


Vines  and  Creepers  109 

of  the  year  the  mill  is  almost  covered  by  vines.  This  is  a  familiar  sight 
to  anglers  in  the  neighbourhood,  as  the  stream  that  runs  by  the  mill 
is  noted  for  its  trout. 

Here  is  a  suggestion  for  the  treatment  of  deserted  buildings  of  all  kinds. 
These  eyesores  might  just  as  well  be  things  of  beauty.  Vines  will  make 
the  transformation.  Are  there  not  some  tumbledown  buildings  in  your 
neighbourhood?  If  so,  why  not  start  some  native  perennial  vines  against 
their  walls  ?  Perhaps  the  Virginia  creeper  grows  wild  in  your  neighbourhood. 
Dig  up  a  piece,  carry  it  off  in  a  basket,  and  plant  it  where  it  will  do  the 
most  good.  You  will  do  the  community  a  good  service,  and  the  experience 
will  be  worth  while  for  its  own  sake. 


CHAPTER  VI 

Native   Ferns    for   Shady   Places 

By   W.   H.  Taplin 

IDE  yards  that  revel  in  sunshine  are  few  and  far  between  on 
many  city  streets,  and  as  a  natural  consequence  flowering 
plants  in  shady  corners  often  turn  out  to  be  miserable  failures. 
Nevertheless,  there  are  possibilities  m  the  gardening  art 
even  in  the  shadiest  of  side  or  back  yards,  and  one  of  the 
most  interesting  and  beautiful  of  these  possibilities  is  found  in  the  form 
of  a  fern  garden,  in  which  are  planted  some  of  our  native  ferns.  Many 
of  these  ferns  are  procurable  by  means  of  an  excursion  to  the  suburban 
woods  or  else  through  the  medium  of  a  dealer.  The  best  time  for  trans- 
planting them  is  in  the  spring  or  early  summer,  though  some  of  the  stronger- 


A  glimpse  of  the  wild  gardening  in  a  wooded  ravine.     Ostrich  fern,  trillium,  Virginia  cowslip,  and  lady's-slipper 

III 


112 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


The  walking  leaf 


growing  species  may  be  moved  from  their  woodland  home  at  almost  any 

time   during   the   growing   season,    provided   a   good-sized   ball  of  earth  is 

taken  up  with  the  roots. 

But  the  soil  in  the  side  yard  is  not  infrequently  ill  suited  to  encourage 
the    growth    of    tender    plants.     Too  much  subsoil 
thrown  up  at  the  time  of  housebuilding,   and  too 
\(t^  \  much  coal  ashes  and  other  refuse  mixed  in  at   the 

'*V\^^  ^S\^^^     time  of  grading,   combine  to  produce    a    condition 
'         /^-^yi  far  from  favourable  for  our  proposed  fern  garden. 

"Lacking  in  humus"  is  what  the  agricultural 
scientists  would  be  likely  to  say  about  such  a  soil, 
and  it  is  humus  or  decayed  vegetable  matter,  such 
'  as  leaves,  roots,  and  twigs,  that  forms  the  greater 
portion  of  the  natural  soil  in  which  the  wild  ferns 
are  found  growing  so  luxuriantly.  Where  the  side 
yard    presents    these     poverty-stricken     conditions 

of    soil,    it  would   pay   to   make   a   little   preparation   before   planting   the 

ferns,  by  digging  out  the  proposed  bed  to  a  depth  of  one  foot,  or  perhaps 

fifteen  inches,   and  then  filling  it  in  with  some  good  garden  soil  or  else 

woods'    earth.     The  ferns   should   not   be   buried   too    deeply   in    planting, 

but  have  the  soil  pressed  firmly  around  the  roots.     The  crown  or  center 

of  growth  should  be  just  about  at 

the  surface  of  the  soil. 

The  maidenhair  is  one  of  the 

choicest    of    our  native  ferns,  but 

transplanted      specimens     seldom 

thrive    as    well    as    those    in  the 

woods.     Success   is   generally  had 

in  proportion  to  the  accuracy  with 

which     one     can     reproduce    the 

natural  conditions. 

The  climbing  or  Hartford  fern 

(Lygodin-fU    palmatum)    does     not 

require    the     exclusion    of    direct 

sunshine    to    the    same    degree    as    does    the    maidenhair,    and    while    the 

earth    in    which    it    grows    is    always    moist,    yet    the    wooded    upland    in 

which  it   is   sheltered   presents   some   entirely  changed   characteristics  that 


Coin  ritrht.  1901  G  A   Woolson 
Asplenium  Trichomanes,  the  fern  which  the  English  call 
"maidenhair."     It  is  also  native  to  the  United  States 


Native  Ferns  for  Shady  Places 


115 


Christmas  fern,  showing  last  year's 
fronds  and  new  fiddleheads 


the  observant  explorer  is  quick  to  note  for  future 

reference.     This    plant    is    very    rare,    and    should 

never   be   taken   from   the    woods.      It  should   be 

purchased    of    a    nurseryman   who    will    guarantee 

that  the  plants  are  cultivated    by   him,  not  taken 

from  the  wild. 

Then  there  is  that  singular  member  among  our 

native  ferns  the  peculiar  habit  of  which  gave  rise 

to    the    Indian     designation     of   "walking     leaf." 

The  walking  fern  is   seldom  met  with  in  consider- 
able numbers  in  any  one  place.     The  long,  narrow 

leaves    of    this    fern  are  shaped  somewhat  like  an 

elongated  arrow-head,  the  point  of  which  seems  to 

seek  the  earth  from  which  it  sprung ;  and  when  this 

leaf  completes  its  growth  and  its  slender  tip  is  rest- 
ing on  the  ground,  roots  are  emitted,  a  new  bud 

forms,  and  soon  we  find  a  young  plant  attached 

to  the  leaf-tip  of   the    parent,    and    in    its    turn  reaching  out  with    tiny 

stride  toward  new   territory.     The   "walking  leaf"   is    perhaps   less  happy 

under  cultivation  than  arc  other  and  stronger-growing  species,  but 
owing  to  its  singular  habit  this  plant  has  much 
attraction  for  the  plant  collector,  and  once  dis- 
covered is  seldom  allowed  to  rest  m  the  shady 
quietness  of  its  native  woods. 

But  these  already  mentioned  may  be  classed 
among  the  modest  and  retiring  members  of  the 
great  fern  family,  and  there  are  a  number  of  others 
that  are  much  more  obtrusive,  presenting  them- 
selves in  great  masses  of  feathery  foliage  that 
almost  give  a  tropical  aspect  to  what  are  generally 
looked  upon  as  merely  "sprout,"  or  second-growth 
woods,  in  prosaic  New  Jersey  or  Pennsylvania. 

Among  these  ferns  of  greater  growth  is  found 

the  common  "brake"  {Pteris  aqiiilina),    a    species 

that    is    now   very    common   in  many   portions  of 

our  country,  though  in  reality  an  emigrant  rather 

The  cinnamon  fern  than  a  nativc  American,   for    the  bracken  is  sup- 


ii6 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


posed  to  have  been  introduced  from  Europe.  The  fohage  of  this  noble 
fern  rises  to  a  height  of  four  or  five  feet,  is  much  divided  into  narrow 
segments,  and  is  of  a  very  pleasing  light  green  throughout  the  summer; 
but  as  autumn  approaches  the  leaves  are  seen  to  turn  gradually  to  a 
bright  yellow,  and  from  this  to  brown,  for  this  fern  is  not  an  evergreen. 

Open  glades  in  the  woods 
often  provide  the  abiding  place  for 
this  fern,  where  its  sturdy  foliage 
gets  a  fair  amount  of  sunshine,  and 
at  the  same  time  sufficient  moist- 
ure to  furnish  sustenance  for  its 
abundant  roots.  The  "royal  fern" 
(Osmunda  regahs),  also  known  as 
"flowering  fern"  owing  to  the 
peculiar  manner  in  which  the  fertile 
fronds  are  thrown  up  in  the  center 
of  the  plant's  growth,  is  more  of  a 
swamp-lover,  and  is  often  found 
growing  in  a  rather  wet  bottom. 
Fortunately,  the  "royal  fern"  is 
not  an  extremely  difficult  subject 
to  transplant  from  the  woods  to 
the  home  grounds,  but  a  moist 
bottom  and  a  partial  shelter  from 
sunshine  are  requisites  for  the 
best  progress  of  the  transplanted 
specimen. 

The  cinnamon   fern   {Osmunda 
ctnnamomea)  is  another  interesting 
The  clenched  fists  of  expanding  ferns  mcmbcr  of  this  family,  and  shows 

great  ability  to  adapt  itself  to  its  surroundings ;  for  while  its  most  natural 
habitat  is  a  somewhat  swampy  field,  or  along  the  outer  edge  of  a  swamp, 
yet  this  same  cinnamon  fern  has  been  found  in  considerable  numbers 
on  a  very  dry  and  stony  bank  beside  a  dusty  road  in  Delaware. 

Then  there  is  the  "Christmas  fern,"  the  long  and  narrow  fronds  of 
which  remind  one  of  the  sword  ferns,  and  are  used  in  vast  quantities  by 
florists  all  over  the  land  as  a  groimdwork  or  backing  for  floral  designs.     These 


Native  Ferns  for  Shady  Places 


17 


fronds  are  gathered  by  the  milhon,  in  ^Michigan  and  other  of  the  northern 
States,  in  the  fall,  and  are  carefully  packed  away  in  cold  storage  by  the 
wholesale  dealers  until  such  time  as  the  market  demands  them. 

The  botanist,  with  his  knapsack  for  the  reception  of  choice  specimens, 
does  but  little  harm  to  our  native  flora,  and  the  specimens  he  captures  are 
taken  in  the  interests  of  science,  but  what  can  be  said  for  the  botanical 
pot-hunter,  so  to  speak,  who  ships  fern  fronds  to  the  number  of  3,000,000 
per  annum  to  one  of  our  large  cities  ? 


'■^-  'V^-  1  ■<  -^J^^  •^Sr'fckv      .  .._! :ri1..-*.^^^ 


The  blue  asters  among  the  ferns 


CHAPTER  VII.     BULBS 

I.     Hardy  Bulbs  for  Fall  Planting 

By  Patrick  O'Mara 

HE  time  to  prepare  for  the  spirng  feast  of  flowers  is  in  the 
fall.  Too  often  people  forget  all  about  it  until  they  see 
the  tulips  in  the  parks  or  in  their  neighbours'  gardens, 
and  then  they  hie  to  the  bulb-seller  in  a  quest  for  bulbs. 
Generally  speaking,  from  the  middle  of  October  until  the 
ground  is  closed  with  frost  the  spring-flowering  bulbs  may  be  planted. 
Some  of  the  species  are  late  in  ripening — lily-of-the-valley,  for  instance 
■ — and  so  the  planting  stock  is  not  available  until  November.  In  our 
northern  climate  frost  and  snow  may  have  made  their  appearance  before 
these  are  procurable,  so  the  expedient  of  covering  the  ground  where  they  are 
to  be  planted  must  be  adopted.  Coarse  bagging  spread  over  the  ground,  and 
a  covering  of  three  or  four  inches  of  leaves,  hay  or  litter  of  any  kind,  will 
answer.  The  best  bulb  garden  the  writer  ever  had — a  small  one,  'tis  true 
—was  planted  on  New  Year's  Day,  the  soil  having  been  kept  frost-free  by 
the  method  described.  However,  unquestionably,  the  earlier  the  better. 
The  first  customers  get  the  best  stock,  and  the  amateur  will  do  well  to  order 
his  hardy  bulbs  in  September,  for  October  planting. 

The  ideal  soil  for  most  bulbs  is  a  friable,  sandy  loam,  well  enriched 
with  barnyard  manure  in  which  is  a  goodly  proportion  of  cow  manure.  This, 
bear  in  mind,  must  be  thoroughly  rotted  and  mixed  to  obtain  best  results. 
It  is  a  common  practice  for  amateurs  to  get  manure  fresh  from  the  horse 
stables  and  put  it  in  the  soil.  The  fermentation  is  almost  sure  to  kill  the 
roots.  In  case  properly  prepared  barnyard  manure  is  not  available,  then  a 
concentrated  fertiliser  may  be  used.  This  can  be  obtained  of  any  dealer. 
The  brand  does  not  make  much  difference.  Any  complete  fertiliser  will  do. 
Of  vital  importance  it  is  to  thoroughly  dig  the  soil  and  pulverise  it;  also  to 
see  that  water  does  not  lodge  on  the  beds  where  bulbs  are  planted.  Let 
them  be  raised  above  the  surface  of  the  garden  and  sufficiently  convexed  to 
shed  the  rain  that  falls.     It  will  repay,  also,  to  cover  the  beds  with  two  or 

119 


I20 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


three  inches  of  the  manure  already  described,  not  alone  for  the  protection 
given  to  the  bulbs,  but  also  for  the  sustenance  derived  from  it.     That  covering 

should  be  taken  off  in  the  spring, 
when  all  danger  of  severe  frost 
is  past,  about  the  time  the  bulbs 
begin  to  send  up  their  growths. 
This  refers  particularly  to  hya- 
cinths and  tulips,  but  applies  to 
nearly  all  varieties. 

The  place  to  plant  bulbs  and 
the  formation  of  the  beds  must 
be  determined  by  the  individual 
facilities  of  the  planter.  If  op- 
portunity exists  to  have  large  beds 
in  fancy  designs,  they  should  be 
adopted — nothing  is  more  attrac- 
tive. For  this  purpose  hyacinths 
and  tulips  are  admirably  fitted. 
Curved  beds  or  fancy  scrolls  of 
tulips  along  the  drives  on  large 
estates,  or  even  on  modest  ones, 
are  most  effective.  In  planting, 
care  should  be  taken  to  obtain 
varieties  which  bloom  at  the  same 
time  and  attain  the  same  heights,  or  the  desired  effect  will  be 
lost.  Round,  square,  oblong,  crescent,  star -shaped,  oval — in  fact, 
any  bed  design  which  suits  the  owner's  fancy  and  will  harmonise 
with  the  surroundings  may  be  adopted  for  planting  hyacinths  and 
tulips.  Good  contrasting  colours  should  be  used  and  so  planted  as  to 
bring  out  and  accentuate  the  adjoining  colours.  Beds  of  one  solid  colour 
will  find  favour  with  many,  and  are  very  effective.  All  the  dealers  in  bulbs 
cater  to  the  demand  for  this  style  of  planting,  and  have  lists  of  varieties 
made  up  especially  for  it,  so  that  the  intending  planter  need  not  be  at  a 
loss  as  to  what  varieties  to  select.  All  he  need  decide  is  the  size  of  the  beds 
and  their  form,  and  the  dealer  will  be  able  to  give  him  the  material,  properly 
selected,  for  planting  them.  It  is  well,  however,  to  note  the  names  of  particu- 
lar varieties  which  have  given  the  planter  especial  satisfaction. 


Double   Narcissus   Sulphur   Phoenix 


Bulbs 


121 


In  park  work  and  public  places,  where  it  is  imperative  to  get  the  very- 
best  results,  it  is  the  common  practice  to  discard  the  tulips  and  hyacmths 
after  they  have  bloomed  once.  The  amateur,  however,  may  remove  these 
bulbs  to  a  less  conspicuous  position,  as  the  back  yard,  the  hardy  border,  or 
the  wild  garden,  where  they  will  continue  to  bloom  year  after  year  indefinitely. 
It  is  now  a  mooted  question,  considering  the  price  at  which  new  and  superior 
bulbs  can  be  purchased,  whether  or  not  it  is  worth  while  taking  up  hyacinth 
and  tulip  bulbs  and  keeping  them  for  a  succeeding  year.  If  it  is  to  be  done, 
the  time  to  do  it  is  after  they  hav^e  ceased  flowering,  when  the  leaves  turn 
yellow.  Dig  them  then,  place  them  m  a  sunny  position,  put  enough  soil 
on  to  cover  the  bulbs,  and  when  all  vegetation  has  gone  from  them  put 
them  away  in  a  cool,  well-ventilated  place,  until  time  to  replant  m  the  fall. 

Indiscriminate  planting  in  the  border  is  much  easier  than  bedding, 
and  here  the  veriest  tyro  can  hardly  go  wrong.  Wherever  there  is  room,  put 
in  some  bulbs,  singly,  in  pairs,  m 
half-dozens  and  dozens ;  the  keenest 
pleasure  is  derived  m  finding  the 
unexpected  come  up  here  and 
there.  This  is  the  place  to  plant 
bulbs  for  the  purpose  of  cutting ;  in 
the  design  bed,  cutting  the  flowers 
will  mar  the  effect  of  the  whole, 
but  they  are  not  missed  from  the 
mixed  border.  This  is  the  place 
for  jonquils,  daffodils,  all  varieties 
of  narcissi,  and  yet  they  are  thor- 
oughly at  home  m  large  beds  by 
themselves.  It  is  the  place  also  to 
put  in  clumps  of  the  lovely  lily- 
of -the- valley,  the  stately  iris,  and 
the  massive  peony  which  is  often 
considered  by  dealers  as  a  bulbous 
plant.  Here  they  live  and  have 
their  being  year  after  year,  un- 
disturbed by  the  vagaries  of  Dame 
Fashion;  for,  even  in  matters  of  the  garden,  the  fickle  jade  w411  interfere,  and 
the  design  which  finds  favour  this  year  may  be  frowned  upon  the  next. 


Trumpet  daffodil  (Horsfieldii) 


122 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


Bulbs  may  be  introduced  with  effect  along  the  confines  of  grounds  and 
m  out-of-the-way  places,  just  on  the  borderland  of  the  cultivated  and  the 
uncultivated,  m  the  shade  of  trees,  along  winding  paths  here  and  there — in 
such  a  way  as  not  to  mar  the  natural  effect  desired  in  such  surroundings. 
In  such  places,  crocuses,  lilies-of -the- valley,  narcissi,  snowflakes,  scillas, 
trilliums,  snowdrops,  chionodoxas,  hemerocallis,  funkias,  lilies,  etc.,  blend 
m  perfect  harmony  with  their  environments. 

An  appropriate  and  \-ery  effective  place  for  planting  bulbs  is  on  the 
I,  lawn.    Such  bulbs  as  crocuses  and 

Scilla  amcena,  a  very  early  flower- 
r  ,  w  .;'  '^^^      ^^g      variety,      are      preeminently 

■    1  W-n^ilfc^^"'  '^^^m      adapted   for   this   purpose.     They 

A  V  E^II^^^BKVBl^^^^l  ^^^^  ^^^^  when  planted  in  irregular 
^^  1  I^^^P^I^^V^f^./^^^^^H  patches  here  and  there,  as  if  they 
^ft  1  ^f^^l^BE^Jyj^^^^^B  came  up  naturally — a  patch  of  the 
^A  \W '  #'  ttKS"^^B|^^^^B  yellow  m  one  place,  the  blue  in 
I  ^^  W^I-^m^^^^^hI^^^VjIh  another,  the  white  in  another,  and 
L  ^^ '.  .jyifk^^^^^^H^HPi^'fl^H  again  the  purple.  Chionodoxas, 
^k    \| ^^B^j^^HHp^^^j^^^^H      winter     aconite,     snowdrops,    tri- 

teleias  and  bulbocodiums  are  use- 
ful for  this  method  of  planting, 
and  very  appropriate.  They  may 
be  planted  with  a  dibber;  or  the 
sod  can  be  removed,  the  bulbs 
placed  in  position,  and  the  sod 
replaced.  They  bloom  early,  and 
mature  before  the  grass  needs  cut- 
ting  in    spring,    so    the    lawm    effect   is  not  marred. 

First  in  importance  among  hardy  bulbs  I  should  place  the  hyacinths. 
Much  has  been  written  about  putting  them  in  position  in  the  bed  and  then 
covering  them  with  soil,  putting  sand  under  them,  etc.,  but  in  actual 
practice  these  slow  and  laborious  methods  are  not  essential  to  success.  If, 
however,  the  planter  prefers  to  follow  the  more  laborious — and  possibly 
surer — method,  then  remove  five  or  six  inches  of  the  top  soil  and  cover  the 
surface  of  the  soil  where  the  bulbs  are  to  be  set  with  an  inch  of  sand.  One 
advantage  of  this  method  is  that  it  enables  the  planter  to  accurately  place 
the  bulbs  in  position  as  to  depth  and  distance  apart,  so  that  the  effect  at 


(Narcissus  \'an  Sion)   Double  golden  daffodil 


Bulbs 


125 


A  bed  of  squills  covered  with  leaves  for  the  winter 


flowering  time  is  more  regular  as  a  whole  than  if  planted  with  the  dibber. 
The  layer  of  sand  has  its  advantage,  inasmuch  as  it  provides  drainage  at  the 
base  of  the  bulbs  and  minimises  the  chances  of  decay  from  contact  with 
manure  in  the  soil  and  from  water 
lodging  immediately  beneath  them. 
The  writer  has  seen   good   beds   of 
bulbs   obtained    by   both  methods, 
but  the  last  one  described  is  pos- 
sibly the  surer  one. 

The  ground  having  been  made 
ready,  as  previously  described, 
and  marked  off  for  the  various 
sorts  if  a  design  is  to  be  planted, 
all  that  is  necessary  is  to  use  a  blunt  stick  and  make  a  hole  large  enough  to 
receive  the  bulb  and  deep  enough  to  have  the  crown  three  to  four  inches  below 
the  surface,  and  place  the  bulb  in  it.  Cover  the  bulbs,  smooth  off  the  bed, 
and  the  work  is  done.  The  proper  distance  for  planting  is  six  inches  apart. 
The  hyacinth  referred  tc  here  is  the  common  "Dutch"  kind  so  familiar  to 
all.  They  can  be  obtained  in  separate  colours  or  m  special  named  varieties. 
They  are  in  two  leading  classes — single-  and  double-flowered.  For  garden 
planting  the  single-flowered  sorts  are  to  be  preferred,  as  they  are  more 
graceful  and  the  spikes  are  not  as  heavy,  so  they  stand  up  better.  It 
may  be  found  necessary  to  support  the  flower-spikes  with  Hght  sticks. 

Ne.xt  to  the  hyacinth  in  importance  comes  the  tuhp.     The  directions 

for  planting  the  hyacinth  apply  to 
the  tulip  also.  There  is  a  greater 
variety  of  these  than  in  the  hya- 
cinth— single  and  double,  early  and 
late,  tall  and  dwarf  ;  beware  of  get- 
ting them  mixed  in  the  same  bed. 
The  leading  dealers  now  offer  a 
class  of  "bedding  tulips,"  and 
these,  generally  speaking,  are  the 
best  to  plant  in  beds.  An  effective 
method  which  has  recently  come  into  vogue  for  planting  tulips  and  hyacinths 
is  to  cut  fancy  scroll  designs  out  of  the  sod,  wide  enough  to  hold  two  or 
three  rows,  and  plant  the  bulbs  to  follow  the  design. 


The  same  bed  in  bloom 


126 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


The  tulips  known  under  the  general  title  of  bedding  varieties  do  not 
embrace  the  late-flowering  sorts — those  which  bloom  in  }tlay  and  which  are 
in  bloom  generally  at  Decoration  Day.  These  latter  are  quite  distinct  m 
every  way  from  the  former;  they  grow  taller  and  have  larger  flowers.  They 
should  be  planted  in  large  masses  to  obtain  the  best  effects,  but  even  singly 
or  in  small  groups  they  are  distmct  and  showy. 

As  cut  flowers  they  are  superior  to  the  earlier  varieties  on  account 
of  their  longer  stems  and  greater  substance,  remaining  a  week  in  good 
condition  after  being  cut.     They  are  very  hardy,  and  may  be  left  where  they 


A  group  of  crocuses 

are  planted;  in  fact,  they  improve   each  season.      This  type  is  generally 
known  as  Darwin  tulips. 

Narcissi  come  next  in  importance.  The  varieties  of  this  prime  favourite 
are  "too  numerous  to  mention.  "  Sufflce  it  to  say  that,  for  general  planting, 
the  sorts  embraced  under  the  general  head  of  daftodils,  with  the  white- 
flowered  poet's  narcissus,  are  the  best.  From  four  to  eight  inches  apart, 
according  to  the  variety  and  size  of  the  bulb,  are  the  proper  distances  for 
planting.  These  are  especially  adapted  for  planting  in  mixed  borders, 
among  hardy  herbaceous  plants,  between  shrubbery,  and  along  walks  and 
drives.  They  thrive  in  almost  any  soil  or  situation,  although  they  attain 
greater  perfection  when  liberally  treated.  The  best  place  for  them  is  in  a 
thoroughly  drained,  moderately  rich,  friable  soil  in  which  is  a  fair  amount  of 


Bulbs 


127 


sharp  sand  or  sandy  leaf 
mould.  If  the  soil  is  not  thus 
constituted  naturally,  it  will 
amply  reward  the  planter  to 
thus  prepare  it.  Where  it  is 
at  all  possible,  a  position 
should  be  selected  for  plant- 
ing them  where  they  will 
be  shaded  by  trees  or  a 
building,  as  the  flowers  on 
the  whole  will  be  larger,  and, 
above  all,  they  will  remain 
in  perfection  for  a  greater 
period,  than  if  planted  in  an 
exposed  position  where  they 
get  the  full  rays  of  the  sun. 
They  should  be  planted  so 
that  the  crown  of  the  bulb 
is  three  inches  below  the 
surface.  The  jonquils,  being 
much  smaller  bulbs  than  the 
general  variety  of  daffodils, 
should  be  planted  only  two 
inches  under  the  surface. 
The  foliage  should  be  al- 
lowed to  ripen  thoroughly 
before  being  removed,  after 
which  a  top-dressing  of  loam 
and  thoroughly  rotted  ma- 
nure will  be  found  of  great 
advantage.  For  outdoor 
planting,  special  mention 
should  be  made  of  the  follow- 
ing: Ard  Righ,  Emperor, 
Horsfieldii,  Princeps, 
Trumpet  Major,  Incompar- 
able, Sir  Watkin,  Maximus, 


The  poet's  narcissus.     (Narcissus  poeticus) 


128  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

Stella,  Poeticus  ornatus,  Biflorus,  Van  Sion,  Orange  Phoenix,  Alba  plena 
odorata,  and  all  the  jonquils. 

Scillas  have  already  been  mentioned  as  being  preeminently  fitted  for 
planting  on  the  lawn.  Like  all  the  bulbs,  they  prefer  a  light  rich  soil.  The 
Amoena  or  Sibirica  praecox  is  the  most  useful  and  beautiful  of  the  species. 
These,  by  the  way,  are  commonly  known  as  squills.  The  flowers  are  pro- 
duced in  wonderful  profusion,  a  beautiful  rich  blue,  and  appear  almost 
before  the  snow  has  vanished.  It  is  a  gem  among  bulbous  flowering 
plants,  so  beautiful  that  no  garden  is  complete  without  some.  Planted 
among  the  rocks  or  in  an  artificially  made  rock  garden,  it  is  a  strikingly 
beautiful  object.  Scilla  canipanulata  is  also  a  charming  variety,  and  can 
be  had  in  blue,  white,  and  rose.  This  is  commonly  known  as  the  wood 
hyacinth.  A  colony  may  remain  undisturbed  in  the  ground  for  a  number 
of  years,  as  the  natural  crowding  does  not  seem  to  injure  them. 

Another  very  useful  bulbous  plant  is  the  snowdrop,  Galanthus  nivalis. 
It  should  be  planted  in  masses  and  closely  together,  about  an  inch  apart. 
Combined  in  beds  with  scillas  or  chionodoxas  the  effect  is  charming.  It  is 
best  to  plant  where  they  can  be  allowed  to  remain  from  year  to  year; 
along  the  edges  of  hardy  borders  is  a  fitting  place  for  it.  There  are  new  and 
improved  sorts,  such  as  Elwes's  Giant  and  King  of  the  Snowdrops,  which 
are  superior  to  the  original  type. 

Chionodoxa,  commonly  known  as  "glory  of  the  snow,"  is  an  exquisite 
plant,  blooming  early  in  the  spring  and  bearing  ten  to  fifteen  scilla-like 
flowers,  a  beautiful  intense  blue  with  a  white  center.  As  an  edging  for  a 
shrubbery,  or  bed  of  hardy  perennial  plants  in  connection  with  scillas  and 
snowdrops,  or  for  planting  on  the  lawn,  or  in  out-of-the-way  places  as 
"naturalised "  plants,  they  are  unequalled.     Cultivate  the  same  as  scillas. 

Trillium  grandiflorum,  the '  great  American  wood-lily,  as  it  is  called^ 
is  another  very  useful  bulbous  plant.  This  should  be  planted  early  in  the 
fall  in  soil  which  has  plenty  of  sand  or  leaf -mould.  The  flowers  are  pure 
white,  changing  to  soft  rose. 

Bulbocodium,  or  spring  colchicum,  is  one  of  the  favourites  for  the  bulb 
garden.  B.  vernum  is  the  best  known  and  is  a  charming  early  spring-blooming 
plant.  It  bears  rosy  purple  flowers,  and  is  one  of  the  first  to  make  its 
appearance  in  spring.  It  succeeds  well  in  any  garden  soil,  and  should 
be  planted  about  three  inches  deep  in  clumps  or  masses.  Its  chief  interest 
is  that  it  generally  blooms  a  week  before  the  crocus. 


Bulbs 


131 


The  camassia  is  also  a  very  desirable  bulbous  plant  among  others 
in  the  garden.  It  resembles  the  common  blue  scilla,  but  is  much  larger, 
its  leaves  being  about  a  foot  long  and  very  narrow.  It  is  commonly  known 
as  Indian  Quamash.  It  does  best  m  sheltered  and  partly  shaded  positions. 
The  flower-stalks  grow  from  tw^o  to  three  teet  high  and  bear  twenty  or 
more  blue  flowers  each  two  inches  across.  It  is  fine  for  cutting.  Grown 
in  a  mass  it  is  very  effective.     Grape  hyacinths  should  be  in  every  garden. 

Crown    imperials    are   among      ^-  , 

the  most  showy  of  bulbous  plants. 
There  are  dwarf  varieties  which 
are  very  effective  m  the  garden 
They  may  be  left  untouched  for 
years.  In  the  blooming  season, 
should  the  weather  prove  dry,  the 
ground  must  be  frequently  well 
soaked  with  water,  that  the  growth 
may  be  vigorous,  or  the  flowers 
of  the  following  season  will  be 
deficient. 

Erythronium,  the  dog's-tooth 
violet,  is  a  charming  plant.  The 
foliage  is  usually  variegated.  A 
mass  of  this  is  an  attractive  ob- 
ject in  the  garden  at  all  times. 
There  are  numerous  species  m 
cultivation.  The  California  kinds 
are  worth  especial  study. 

Last,  but  not  least,  are  the 
anemones.  The  varieties  of  A.  coronarta  form  a  most  brilliant  group 
of  spring-flowering  bulbous  plants,  producing  enormous  quantities  of 
bloom  of  every  shade  of  colour,  both  double  and  single,  and  of  very 
varied  form.  Though  perfectly  hardy  south  of  Washington,  District 
of  Columbia,  they  are  not  entirely  so  in  this  latitude,  but  if  planted 
in  September  or  October,  about  two  inches  deep  and  protected  by  a  cold- 
frame  in  winter,  they  will  flower  magnificently  in  spring.  The  tubers, 
however,  keep  well  through  the  winter,  and  may  be  planted  out  in 
spring  for  summer  blooming. 


m 

tk:  i:^|r^i^-  ■-  ,  - 

*  W   J*' 

■  X    ,    ^    -..? 

•#^-^    ^v  ** 

A  bed  of  narcissus 


132  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

The  fall  is  also  the  best  time  to  plant  lilies,  but  as  they  are  generally 
regarded  as  summer  bloomers  they  will  not  be  treated  m  this  connection. 
It  is  possible  to  plant  lilies  in  the  spring,  but  the  bulbs  start  early  and  should 
not  have  a  setback.  In  this  connection  I  would  remind  the  reader  that 
many  other  bulbous  and  herbaceous  plants,  as  peonies  and  iris,  which  are 
commonly  planted  in  the  spring,  can  be  planted  also  m  the  fall. 

There  are  many  other  bulbs  and  roots  which  can  be  planted  in  the 
fall  which  are  not  specifically  mentioned,  but  I  trust  that  enough  has 
been  said  to  create  a  wider  interest  in  this  beautiful  and  valuable  section 
of  flowering  plants. 


II.     Practical  Directions  for  Bulb  Culture 
By    Edward  J.  Canning 

Fall  bulbs  are  so  called  because  they  are  received  and  planted  in  the  fall 
of  the  year;  also  in  contradistinction  to  summer  bulbs,  which  are  planted  in 
spring.  They  are  nearly  all  imported  from  Holland.  Millions  of  them  are 
brought  into  this  country  during  September,  October,  and  November. 
Fall  bulbs  include  all  those  early  spring-flowering  bulbous  plants  which 
brighten  up  the  garden  almost  before  the  dreary  days  ot  winter  are  past. 
Crocuses,  snowdrops,  scillas,  star  of  Bethlehem,  narcissus,  daffodils,  jonquils, 
tulips,  and   Dutch  hyacinths  are  household  words. 

From  the  little  attention  that  these  plants  require,  together  with  their 
cheapness,  there  is  no  reason  why  any  one  who  may  possess  only  a  few  feet 
of  ground  should  not  have  and  enjoy  them,  and  extend  their  cultivation  in 
grounds  of  more  ample  proportions.  Their  requirements  are  simple  indeed. 
We  plant  them  in  the  fall  because  it  is  the  season  in  which  they  make  their 
roots  and  establish  themselves  well  in  the  ground  ready  to  begin  work  in 
spring.  All  bulbs  must  be  well  rooted  before  active  growth  can  take  place 
aboveground.  In  this  they  are  somewhat  analogous  to  seeds  which,  when 
germinating,  always  make  the  roots  first,  so  as  to  be  able  to  draw  nourish- 
ment from  the  soil  to  support  the  growth  aboveground. 

The  depth  of  planting  fall  bulbs  varies  with  the  different  species,  but 
all  should  have  a  covering  of  two  inches  of  soil  above  the  top  of  the  bulb. 
Therefore,  hyacinths  and  narcissus  should  be  planted  five  to  six  inches  deep 


Bulbs 


133 


according  to  size  of  bulbs,  tulips  four  inches,  crocuses,  snowdrops  and  bulbs 
of  similar  size  about  three  inches  deep. 

Bulbs  are  not  fastidious  in  regard  to  soil,  though  a  loamy  soil  with  a 
tendency  to  sandiness  is  best.  The  best  fertiliser  is  thoroughly  decayed 
farmyard  manure,  or  ground  bone  meal,  and  only  a  very  moderate  dressing 
of  either,  which  should  be  forked  into  the  soil  when  preparing  to  plant. 

They  may  be  planted  in  the  mixed  flower  border,  or  in  Jormal  beds 
or  borders  near  the  dwelling,  or 
best  of  all  (tulips  and  hyacinths 
excepted)  they  may  be  naturalised 
in  such  positions  as  under  decid- 
uous trees,  on  grassy  slopes  around 
the  edges  of  lawns  or  shrubbery 
borders,  along  the  edges  of  woods, 
or  in  any  wild  or  semi-wild  positions 
in  company  with  trilliums,  anem- 
ones, decentras,  and  many  other 
early  spring-flowering  plants.  A 
bank  of  crocuses  under  large  decid- 
uous trees  or  irregular  colonies  of 
daffodils  along  the  edges  of  woods 
or  on  grassy  banks  is  a  beautiful 
sight,  while  snow-drops,  scillas  and 
star  of  Bethlehem  are  well  adapted 
for  naturalising  along  woodland 
paths  and  in  open  groves.     In  such 

"  Tulip      "  KaisLi   Kiuun 

positions  they  should  be  planted  m 

quantities  in  order  to  be  effective,  and  as  irregular  as  possible,  and  not 
in  square  or  circular  colonies.  Always  aim  to  make  them  look  as  natural 
as  possible. 

When  once  planted,  most  bulbs  will  increase  and  flower  each  year 
provided  the  foliage  is  not  cut  off.  This  must  be  allowed  to  ripen  off 
naturally,  which  will  take  until  the  end  of  June. 

Tulips  and  hyacinths,  being  so  highly  cultivated  or  so  far  developed 
from  the  wild  types,  do  not  lend  themselves  well  for  planting  in  wild  or 
semi-wild  positions.  They  are  best  adapted  for  formal  beds  or  borders 
near  the  dwelling.      Tulips  and  hyacinths  should  not  be  planted  together  in 


^34 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


the  same  border  or  bed,  because  the  times  of  flowering  differ,  and  unless 
very  carefuhy  selected  and  arranged  the  colours  of  the  flowers  will  not  har- 
monise well.  Before  planting,  the  beds  should  be  given  a  dressing  of  fertiliser, 
then  dug  and  raked  very  smooth.  The  bulbs  should  then  be  placed  regularly 
all  over  the  bed  before  they  are  planted,  so  that  each  bulb  shall  have  just  so 
much  to  develop — hyacinths  seven  inches  apart,  and  tulips  five.  They  should 

then  be  carefully  planted  and  the 
bed  left  very  smooth  and  even. 
The  flowers  of  both  tulips  and 
hyacinths  embrace  a  good  range 
of  colour,  and  colour  designs  can 
be  made  when  planting.  Sugges- 
tions for  the  same  may  be  found 
in  almost  any  bulb  catalogue.  It 
is  important  in  planting  tulips 
to  plant  the  early-flowering  kinds 
together  and  the  late-flowering 
kinds  by  themselves,  and  not  in  the 
same  bed.  When  a  bed  of  tulips 
is  in  bloom,  every  flower  should  be 
open  at  the  same  time ;  also  with 
both  hyacinths  and  tulips,  the 
flowers  should  all  be  of  an  even 
height,  to  secure  which  the  bulbs 
must  be  planted  of  an  even  depth. 

Beds  of    jonquils    and    daffo- 
dils   are    also    very  effective,   and 
the  bulbs  require  to  be  planted  the 
White  Hyacinths  samc  distaucc  apart  and  the  same 

depth  as  hyacinths.  Crocuses,  scfllas  and  other  small  bulbs  are  more 
suitable  for  narrow  borders  than  formal  flower  beds.  They  should  be 
planted  three  inches  apart. 

Although  fall  bulbs  are  quite  hardy,  yet  sometimes  during  the  winter 
we  have  sudden  thaws  sufficient  to  excite  the  bulbs  to  grow.  To  prevent 
this,  when  planted  in  beds  it  is  better  to  give  them  a  light  covering  of  partially 
decayed  leaves  or  light  mulch  about  two  inches  deep,  but  it  should  not  be 
put  on  till  after  the  ground  is  frozen  hard,   for  if  placed  on  before  this  mice 


Bulbs 


135 


will  often  nest  under  it  and  take  their  meals  out  of  the  bulbs.  When 
planted  in  wild  or  semi-wild  situations  the  natural  covering  of  leaves 
and  grass  is  sufficient. 

Many  people  discard  their  tulips  and  hyacinths  after  the  season  of 
flowering  is  past,  as  they  never  give  the  same  satisfaction  a  second  season. 
If  one  has  not  the  heart  to  do  this,  and  the  beds  are  wanted  for  the  summer 
bedding  plants,  the  bulbs  should  be  carefully  lifted,  the  flower  stalks  cut  off, 
and  the  bulbs  planted  again  closely  in  shallow  trenches  in  some  shaded, 
secluded  place  where  they  may  finish  ripening  their  foliage  and  may 
rest  until  fall.  They  may  then  be  lifted  and  planted  in  irregular  shaped 
colonies  in  the  mixed  flower  border,  where  they  should  remain  permanently. 
Daffodils,  crocuses  and  other  bulbs  do  better  if  they  can  remain  in  the 
beds  when  once  planted,  but  if  the  beds  are  wanted  for  summer-flowering 
plants  the  bulbs  may  be  treated  the  same  as  tulips  and  hyacinths. 

Almost  all  bulb  catalogues  designate  the  kinds  most  suitable  for  bedding, 
together  with  the  colours,  single  or  double,  early-  or  late-flowering,  and 
quotations  per  dozen,  per  hundred,  and  per  thousand;  and  while  the 
best  prices  wih,  of  course,  secure  the  best  quality  of  bulbs,  which  will 
produce  rather  the  largest  flowers,  yet  I  do  not  ever  remember  to  have 
seen  a  poor  variety  of  any  of  the  fall  bulbs. 


CHAPTER  VIII 

The   Water  Garden   and   the   Mosquito   Problem 

By  William    Lyman   Underwood 

OME  years  ago,  in  a  low-lying  meadow  near  my  house,  in 
Belmont,  Massachusetts,  I  made  an  artificial  pond  in  which 
to  grow  water-lilies — a  modest  affair  seventy  feet  in  length, 
and  varying  in  width  from  five  to  fifteen  feet.  Here  I 
planted  several  difi"erent  kinds  of  hardy  pond -lilies  and  other 
aquatic  plants,  some  of  which  bloom  from  May  until  October.  The 
venture  has  been  so  successful,  and  the  little  sheet  of  water  has 
added  such  a  charming  feature  to  the  landscape,  that  I  am    tempted    to 


I     i\n);lit    I  o"   1  \    Will     I  >man  Underwood 

A  bit  of  Mr.  Underwood's  water  garden,  showing  its  relation  to  the  house 


^37 


«38 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


"  The  margin  was  well  sodded,  in  order  to  secure  a  firm  and  moderately  dry  edge  " 

tell  my  experience  as  an  amateur  water  gardener,  that  others  may,  if 
they  wish,  go  and  do  likewise. 

The  meadow  where  the  pond  is  situated  was  rather  damp,  and  at  times 
quite  wet  and  boggy.  The  soil  is  a  black  and  heavy  peaty  loam,  with  a 
subsoil  of  gravel  and  fine  blue  clay.  This  particular  spot  was  naturally  so 
wet  and  difficult  to  drain  thoroughly  that  it  seemed  admirably  adapted  for 
this  purpose,  especially  so  as  it  was  well  protected  at  the  north  from  the 
cold  winds  by  a  heavy  growth  of  willow  trees;  while  nothing  intervened 
to  the  south  to  cut  off  the  sun's  rays,  which  shone  all  day  upon  it. 

With  these  natural  advantages  in  my  favour,  the  work  of  building  the 
pond  seemed  already  well  begun.  In  order  to  clearly  show  the  outline,  and 
to  form  some  idea  of  what  the  shape  ought  ultimately  to  be,  to  conform 
with  the  lay  of  the  adjoining  land,  stakes  were  driven  into  the  ground  at 
intervals  of  every  two  feet  along  the  prospective  margin,  and  the  excavation 
of  the  soil  was  begun.  Through  the  center  of  the  pond  the  dirt  was  removed 
to  a  depth  of  five  feet,  well  down  to  the  gravel  and  clay.  During  the  work 
of  excavation,   three  blind  or  stone  drains  were  encountered.     They  led 


The  Water  Garden  and  the  Mosquito  Problem 


139 


into  a  meadow  brook  which  flows  close  by,  and,  fearing  that  perhaps  they 
might  at  times  drain  off  the  water  from  the  pond  faster  than  it  would  come 
in,  particularly  as  the  brook,  only  forty  feet  away,  is  nearly  three  feet  below 
the  level  of  the  garden,  and  to  guard  against  any  possible  loss  of  water  in 
this  way,  the  whole  bottom  of  the  pond  was  covered  with  four  inches  of 
well-puddled  clay.  This  measure,  of  course,  while  it  prevented  any  water 
from  escaping,  also  ser^'ed  to  keep  out  all  ground  water.  So,  not  wishing 
to  depend  entirely  upon  the  rainfall  for  a  supply,  a  line  of  two-inch  iron 
pipe  was  laid  from  the  pond,  up  to  the  bed  of  the  small  brook  several  hundred 
feet,  to  a  pomt  where  a  small  dam  held  the  water  back  about  a  foot  above 
the  level  of  the  garden.  This  gave  an  abundance  of  water  at  all  times, 
though  all  that  is  necessary  is  just  enough  to  keep  the  pond  fresh  and  make 
up  for  any  evaporation. 

At  times  it  may  become  necessary  to  draw  off  the  water  from  the  garden, 
in  order  to  set  out  new  plants  or  to  remove  some  varieties  that  are  growing 
too  fast  and  crowding  out  others.  In  order  to  accomplish  this,  a  discharge 
pipe  was  run  into  the  bed  of  the  brook,  and  at  its  upper  end  was  fastened 


Copyright,  1902.  by  \Vm.  Lyman  Underwood 


So  near  and  yet  so  far 


140 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


into  the  bottom  of  a  small  tub  placed  in  the  deepest  part  of  the  pond,  the 
tub  being  used  to  keep  the  mud  away  from  the  outlet  and  so  prevent  the 
pipe  from  being  clogged.  For  an  overflow,  a  brass  standpipe  was  fitted 
into  the  outlet,  and  in  order  that  the  water  might  be  kept  at  any  desired 
level,  this  pipe  was  made  in  several  sections  which  fitted  one  into  another, 
and  by  putting  in  or  taking  out  a  number  of  sections  the  depth  of  water 
is  easily  controlled. 

Everything  being  in  readiness,  about  eighteen  inches  of  soil  was  replaced 
over  the  lining  of  clay,  the  slope  of  the  bottom  being  made  very  gradual 


Copyrigfht,  1902,  by  Wr 


Our  friends  the  frogs 

particularly  along  the  shores,  that  the  conditions  might  be  favourable  for 
the  growth  of  suitable  marginal  plants.  On  top  of  this  natural  soil  was 
placed  a  foot  of  compost,  made  by  thoroughly  mixing  two  parts  of  the  richest 
loam  with  one  part  of  well-rotted  cow  manure.  The  balance  of  the  excavated 
dirt  was  graded  back  upon  the  high  land  which  formed  the  south  shore  of 
the  pond.  The  land  on  the  north,  or  lower  side,  was  left  at  its  original 
level,  and  by  this  treatment  a  most  natural  effect  was  secured.  The  entire 
margin  was  well  sodded,  in  order  to  secure  a  firm  and  moderately  dry  ed-^e, 


The  Water  Garden  and  the  Mosquito  Problem  143 


^^  <v^/. 


ji^^ijr/^F-    ^y-^'j^y-/'^ 


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Coryrk 

How  mosquitoes  breed  in  the  absence  of  the  goldfish 

and  a  row  of  stepping-stones  was  placed  between  the  outlet  and  the  shore, 
thus  bringing  the  overflow  pipe  within  easy  reach. 

Along  the  lower  margin  were  set  out  marsh  marigolds,  and  forget-me- 
nots,  and  different  varieties  of  water-grasses.  Arrow-head  and  pickerel- 
weed  were  also  started  along  the  grassy  border,  and  all  along  the  farther 
and  broader  end  of  the  pond  were  grouped  masses  of  large  Japanese  iris, 
to  serve  as  a  background  for  the  water-lilies,  which  were  to  be  the  principal 
features  of  the  water  garden.  When  ready  for  planting,  the  water  was 
drawn  out  of  the  pond  until  only  a  few  inches  remained.  Planks  were  then 
placed  upon  the  bottom,  and,  walking  out  upon  them,  I  set  out  the  lilies, 
pushing  the  rhizomes  firmly  down  into  the  muddy  soil. 

After  the  plants  were  all  in  place,  in  order  to  keep  the  water  as  warm 
as  possible  until  the  new  growth  began,  the  pond  was  kept  about  half  full. 
Then,  as  the  tender  foliage  started  and  the  lily-pads  came  near  the  surface, 
the  level  was  raised  a  few  inches  at  a  time.  Where  it  is  not  practicable  to 
control  the  garden  in  this  way,  the  rootstocks  may  be  pushed  down  into  the 
mud  with  a  long  pole ;  but  the  growth  will  be  much  more  rapid  and  vigorous 
if,  at  the  start,  the  water  can  be  kept  quite  shoal  and  warm.     The  pond  was 


[44 


H( 


to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


first  planted  in  May,  and  by  the  middle  of  August  the  lilies  were  well  in 
bloom.  They  may  be  set  out  at  any  time  during  the  summer,  but  an  early 
start  is  necessary  if  they  are  to  flower  the  same  year. 

There  is  another  important  and  interesting  feature  of  this  pond  that  is 
of  special  significance :  it  has  become  the  home  of  a  large  number  of  beauti- 
ful goldfish  that  have  thriven  and  multiplied  in  its  waters  ever  since  the 
pond  was  started  eight  years  ago.  It  is  not  generally  realised,  as  it  should 
be,  that  goldfish  will  live  in, our  natural  northern  waters;  for,  as  I  shall  show, 
their  presence  in  many  small  ponds  may  be  of  vital  importance  to  us.  It 
is  now  known  that  a  certain  mosquito  conveys  from  man  to  man  the  germs 
of  malaria  and  yellow  fever,  and  it  has  been  found  that  water  is  absolutely 
essential  to  its  life  in  the  earlier  stages.  The  mosquito  lays  its  eggs  upon 
the  surface  of  some  quiet  pool,  where,  after  a  few  days,  they  hatch  out, 
filling  the  water  with  thousands  of  "wigglers,"  or  larvas,  and  after  another 
transformation  eventually  become  the  adult  mosquito.  To  exterminate  the 
mosquitoes,  we  must  destroy  their  breeding  places.  Fill  up  or  drain  off 
the  pools  where  the  "  wigglers  "  are  to  be  found  and,  where  it  is  not  practicable 


Goldfish  feeding  on  mosqu 


Copyright,  1902,  by  Wm.  Lyman  Underwood 

(arvae 


The  Water  Garden  and  the   Mosquito  Problem  145 

to  adopt  either  of  these  methods,  cover  the  surface  of  the  water  with  kerosene 
oil,  thus  cutting  off  the  supply  of  air  from  the  larvae  and  smothering  them. 

But  what  shall  we  do  with  the  water  garden,  which  appears  so  perfectly 
suited  for  raising  mosquitoes?  Shall  we  fill  it  up,  drain  it  off",  or  pour  oil 
upon  its  troubled  waters  ?  If  his  pond  should  prove  as  great  a  source  of 
pleasure  to  the  reader  as  mine  has  been  to  me,  he  will  be  loath  to  adopt  any 
of  these  radical  measures.  Repeated  and  diligent  search  had  failed  to 
reveal  the  presence  of  any  mosquito  larv^  in  my  pond,  and  this  seemed 
all  the  more  strange  when,  in  the  quiet  waters  of  the  brook  not  fifty 
feet  away,  I  discovered  thousands  of  active  "wigglers. "  Reflecting  upon 
this  fact,  it  seemed  probable  that  the  goldfish  were  holding  the  mosqui- 
toes in  check  in  the  pond,  while  in  the  brook  the  insects  were  breeding 
in  comparative  safety. 

To  test  the  correctness  of  this  theory,  I  took  two  small  goldfish  from  the 
pond  and  placed  them  in  an  aquarium  where  they  could  feed  upon  mosquito 
larv£e  and  be  under  observation.  The  result  was  as  anticipated.  Whenever 
they  were  dropped  into  the  water  the  "wigglers"  disappeared  in  short  order. 

When  it  is  once  understood  that  goldfish  are  useful,  as  well  as  orna- 
mental and  comparatively  hardy,  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  they  will  be  introduced 
into  many  small  bodies  of  water,  such  as  lily  ponds  and  water  gardens, 
where  mosquitoes  are  likely  to  breed.  In  my  experience,  these  fish  can  easily 
be  reared  in  any  sheltered  pond  where  the  water  is  shoal  and  warm. 

What  country  town  is  there  that  does  not  have  some  swamps  containing 
pools  that  are  difficult  and  perhaps  impossible  to  drain  ?  Where  it  is  possible, 
let  every  swamp  be  drained ;  but  let  no  hasty  judgment  condemn  and  banish 
all  quiet  country  pools,  for  many  of  them,  by  proper  treatment,  can  be 
improved,  and  made  not  only  wholesome  but  charming  features  of  beauty 
in  the  landscape. 


CHAPTER    IX 


Water-lilies  and  Other  Aquatic  Plants 


By  William  Tricker 


JNY  one  who  is  planning  to  grow  water-lilies  will  do  well  to 
study  the  conditions  under  which  they  thrive  in  nature. 
Water-HHes  do  not  grow  in  every  pond;  they  flourish 
only  in  places  that  are  exposed  to  full  sunshine,  and 
which  are  not  subjected  to  violent  freshets  or  strong 
springs  that  keep  the  water  cold  even  in  summer  time.  Another  thing, 
Nature  seldom  plants  more  than  one  species  in  one  pond.  Note  also 
that  natural  ponds  annually  receive  an  accumulation  of  dead  leaves,  and 
that  the  surface  water  constantly  adds  silt,  etc.,  to  the  accumulation  of 


Water-lilies  as  cut  flowers 
^^1 


148  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

vegetable  matter  which  furnishes  abundant  plant-food  for  nymphseas  and 
other  aquatic  plants. 

The  location  of  the  pond  may  first  receive  attention.  A  water-lily 
pond  should  be  at  a  convenient  distance  from  the  dwelHng-house  and  easy 
of  access.  Its  near  proximity  to  the  dwelling-house  can  not  be  considered 
a  menace,  since  mosquitoes  may  be  kept  in  check  by  means  of  goldfish. 
If  possible,  select  a  site  where  the  ground  slopes  gently  toward  the  pond; 
but  if  the  ground  is  level  or  nearly  so,  the  soil  taken  from  the  excavation 
may  be  used  to  form  a  bank  on  one  side  or  end,  which,  by  judicious  planting, 
will  present  a  pleasing  and  natural  effect.  The  water-level  of  the  pond 
should  be  a  few  mches  below  the  ground-line. 

Having  selected  the  site  and  decided  as  to  the  shape,  it  will  be  a  wise 
policy  to  err  on  the  side  of  making  the  basin  too  large  rather  than  too  small. 
If  you  have  never  grown  water-lihes  and  do  not  know  what  "tropical  vegeta- 
tion" means,  it  will  be  difficult  for  you  to  reaHse  how  much  space  should 
be  allotted  a  given  number  of  plants.  It  is  one  of  the  commonest  mistakes 
to  crowd  a  great  many  plants  into  a  little  pool.  Three  water-plants  are 
put  into  an  ordinary  tub,  where  there  is  not  sufficient  space  for  one.  Of 
course  there  is  a  limit  to  the  size  of  a  pond,  but  I  would  suggest  going  to  the 
extreme;  it  is  far  better  than  having  to  enlarge  afterward,  or  having  to 
content  oneself  with  a  pond  that  is  too  small.  However,  I  should  not 
advise  any  one  to  make  a  pond  so  large  that  it  will  be  out  of  proportion 
with  the  rest  of  the  garden. 

The  best  way  to  make  a  pond  will  in  most  cases  be  the  simplest  and  the 
most  nature-like.  Study  the  existing  conditions  in  every  case,  and  make 
use  of  the  materials  at  hand.  Clay,  gravel,  rough  stones  or  bricks  may  be 
used  for  construction.  Puddled  clay  will  make  a  water-tight  basin.  The 
clay  should  be  at  least  four  inches  thick  on  sides  and  bottom.  If  boxes  or 
tubs  are  to  be  used,  the  bottom  should  be  covered  with  sand,  otherwise 
the  soil  may  be  placed  on  the  clay  bottom.  Cover  the  sides  with  sod.  There 
is  much  labour  in  constructing  a  pond  of  clay,  and,  although  it  may  appear 
cheap,  I  would  not  recommend  this  method  of  construction  unless  the  clay 
can  be  had  for  the  digging  and  all  hauling  can  be  done  without  hiring  teams. 
Gravel  and  like  materials  that  can  be  used  as  concrete  will  answer  the  purpose 
well.  The  sides  and  bottom  should  be  covered  with  four  inches  of  the  same, 
with  a  facing  of  Portland  cement  an  inch  thick.  Rough  stones  laid  in  cement 
may  also  be  used  for  the  same  purpose.     The  walls  should  be  about  eight 


a  IB 


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II 


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Water-lilies  and  Other  Aquatic  Plants 


151 


inches  thick,  and  finished  with  a  facing  of  Portland  cement;  the  bottom 
should  be  constructed  in  like  manner.  When  the  above-named  materials 
are  used,  the  sides  should  be  flar- 
ing. The  depth  when  finished 
should  not  be  less  than  two  feet. 
The  ground  should  by  no  means  be 
new  or  made  ground.  A  water- 
lily  basin  needs  a  solid  substratum, 
so  that  settling  in  any  part  is  out 
of  the  question,  for  should  there 
be  a  leak  the  consequences  will  be 
disastrous.  The  best  and  most 
practicable  method  is  to  construct 
the  basin  of  brickwork.  This  work 
may  be  entrusted  to  a  local  bricklayer,  and  an  approximate  cost  can 
be  given  or  ascertained  beforehand.  The  walls  should  be  eight  inches 
thick,  built  perpendicular.  The  joints  should  be  all  well  filled  in  as  the 
work  proceeds.  The  wall  may  be  tapered  near  the  top,  finishing  with 
a  four-inch  brick  laid  flat.  The  walls  on  the  inside,  as  far  as  they  are 
tapered,  should  receive  an  inch-thick  plaster  of  Portland  cement.  The 
bottom,  or  floor,  may  be  grouted  or  laid  in  with  brickbats  or  whole  bricks, 
and  should  afterward  receive  a  good  facing  of  cement. 

Before  anything  is  done  in  the  way  of  construction,  the  water-supply 
must  be  assured,  especially  if  there  is  danger  of  prolonged  drought.  Provision 
must  also  be  made  against  a  freshet  after  heavy  rains,  in  case  the  pond  is 


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^^^ 

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^^ 

r^  A^ 

Lotus  in  a  farmer's  yard 


The  white  water-lily  of  the  South,  as  it  grows  at  State  Line,  Miss.,  in  a  pond  fifty  by  one 
hundred  and  twenty  feet,  belonging  to  Mrs.  M.  S.  Gaines 


1^2  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

fed  by  a  stream;  otherwise  the  occupants  might  be  swept  clean  out  of  the 
pond,  or  buried  under  a  mass  of  sand  or  other  material  carried  along  by  the 
freshet.  In  all  artificial  basins  an  overflow  should  be  provided,  to  serve 
the  double  purpose  of  overflow  and  outlet.  The  size  of  the  pipe  may  vary 
from  two  to  four  inches,  according  to  the  size  of  the  pond.  A  four-inch 
pipe  is  large  enough  for  a  pond  of  five  thousand  superficial  feet.  A  smaller 
pipe  than  two  inches  would  carry  off  the  surplus  water  of  a  small  pond, 
but  it  is  liable  to  become  choked  with  light  floating  matter.  The  overflow 
pipe  should  be  made  in  at  least  two  sections,  with  screw  joints,  an  elbow 
terminating  the  outlet  and  level  with  the  bottom  of  the  basin,  or  slightly 
depressed,  the  overflow  pipe  being  fitted  into  the  latter  and  terminating 
with  a  collar.  Never  plant  a  newly  constructed  basin  or  pond  built  of 
masonry  or  concrete  without  giving  the  same  a  thorough  soaking  and 
change  of  water;  otherwise,  the  caustic  property  of  the  cement  will  destroy 
the  plants,  fish,  or  any  living  thing. 

The  selection  of  varieties  requires  much  careful  consideration.  Not 
all  nymphaeas  are  adapted  for  every  mode  of  culture.  For  example,  any 
one  who  selects  for  tub  culture  such  a  rampant  grower  as  Nymphcca  titberosa 
is  sure  to  be  disappointed.  It  is  difficult  to  give  advice,  because  individual 
tastes  must  be  consulted.  Some  prefer  decided  colours,  others  white  or 
pink,  or  yellow  shading  to  red.  The  locality  and  section  of  the 
country  must  also  be  taken  into  consideration.  In  the  northern  and 
eastern  States  and  mountainous  districts  better  results  are  obtained  from 
the  hardy  nymphaeas  and  nelumbiums.  The  season  is  often  short  for  the 
latter,  and  tender  nymphaeas,  if  grown  at  all,  should  be  extra  large  plants; 
as  it  is  not  safe  to  plant  out  before  June  ist,  and  in  some  sections  not 
before  June  loth.  In  such  cases  it  is  better  to  confine  the  selection 
of  tender  nymphaeas  to  the  day-flowering  kinds.  Around  New  York  City 
and  south  and  south  westward  any  species  or  variety  can  be  grown.  A 
selection  may  be  made  comprising  all  nymphaeas,  both  hardy  and  tender, 
day-  and  night -flowering,  nelumbiums  victor  as,  and  miscel  aneous  plants. 
The  season  begins  in  April,  and  by  the  latter  end  of  the  month  NympJicua 
Laydekeri  rosea  is  in  blossom.  The  latter  can  be  relied  upon  every  time; 
it  is  not  only  the  first — it  is  also  the  last  of  the  season.  Some  of  the  hardy 
nymphaeas  are  short-lived,  or  rather  the  season  of  flowering  is  short — e.  g.,th.e 
Cape  Cod  pink  pond-lily,  N.  odorata  rosea.  In  fact,  the  typical  A^.  odorata 
and  its  numerous  hybrids,  together  with  A^.  titberosa  and  its  forms,  are  also 


Water-lilies  and  Other  Aquatic  Plants 


53 


short-lived.  Their  season  is  on  the  wane  by  the  Fourth  of  July.  Although 
the  European  varieties  hold  out  longer,  the  flowers  are  much  smaller,  and 
colours  begin  to  fade.  But  by  Independence  Day  the  nelumbiums  in  many 
shades  of  colour  attract  our  attention,  as  do  also  the  tender  nymphseas. 
From  July  until  September  the  tender  nymph^as,  with  their  gorgeous  colours 
and  gigantic  size,  dominate  the  water  garden,  and  the  hardy  ones  still  remain- 
ing in  blossom  are  almost  totally 
eclipsed  by  their  Oriental  brethren. 

An  aquatic  basin  twenty  by  fifty 
feet  will  afford  a  superficial  space 
of  one  thousand  feet.  The  soil  in 
which  the  nymphceas  are  to  be 
planted  may  be  placed  directly  on 
the  bottom,  or,  better  still,  boxes 
three  to  four  feet  square  and  one 
foot  deep  may  be  used  instead.  The 
soil  should  be  a  moderately  stiff, 
fibrous  loam,  and  thoroughly  rotten 
manure,  one  part  manure  to  two  of 
loam,  the  whole  bemg  composted,  if 
possible,  in  the  fall  for  spring  use. 
In  a  pond  of  the  above  dimensions 
ten  plants  of  tender  nymphasas  will 
cover  the  whole  surface.  It  is  not 
unusual,  in  the  region  of  Philadel- 
phia, for  a  single  plant  of  the  night - 
flowering  varieties  to  measure  twelve 
feet  across.  Thus,  allowing  each 
plant  its  individuality,  six  plants 
of  tender  nymph^as  will  suffice  for  such  a  pond.  But  supposing  the  pond 
is  planted  with  hardy  nymphaeas,  it  would  require  three  of  the  latter  in  place 
of  one  tender  nymph^a — at  least  for  the  first  season,  if  immediate  effect  is 
desired.  Instead  of  planting  in  clumps  of  three,  any  one  who  prefers  variety 
may  set  one  plant  each  of  twelve  distinct  varieties.  Hardy  and  tender 
nymphaeas  may  be  grown  in  the  same  pond,  if  desired;  also  lotus  in  variety. 
The  latter  must  necessarily  be  confined  to  a  given  space,  being  grown  either 
in  a  large  tub  or  in  a  walled-in  section. 


Pitcher  plant  in  flower  (Sarracenia  purpurea).    This  plant 
may  be  naturalised  at  the  side  of  a  pond 


154 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


The  following  twelve  hardy  nymph^as  represent  the  best  (regardless 
of  their  selling  prices)  adapted  to  an  artificial  aquatic  basin,  the  best 
six  being  marked  with  a*:    Arethusa,  Andreana,  Glonosa,  *James  Brydon, 


Victoria  regia  in  flower       (The  upturned  leaf-margin  of  the  Victoria  makes  it  unique) 

*Marliacea  alhida,  ^Marliacea  chromatella,  *AIarliacea  rosea,  Marliacea 
flamniea,  Marliacea  rubra  punctata,  Robinsoni,  *  William  Doogue,  *  William 
Falconer. 

The  question  may  arise  as  to  the  omission  of  such  grand  varieties  as 
A^  Gladstoniana,  N.  tiiherosa  Richardsonii,  and  A^.  odorata  Caroliniana.  They 
are  out  of  place  in  an  aquatic  basin  of  ordinary  size,  because  their  growth 
is  too  vigorous;  they  are  better  adapted  to  the  natural  pond,  and  to  places 
where  they  do  not  require  to  be  replanted  periodically.  Other  charming 
varieties,  such  as  A^.  Laydekeri  rosea,  N.  helvola,  etc.,  are  also  omitted;  they 
are  so  small  that  they  are  better  adapted  to  small  pools,  fountain  basins, 
and  tubs.  However,  they  may  be  planted  in  the  same  pond  with  strong- 
growing  species,  provided  there  is  a  suitable  corner  where  the  more  vigorous 
plants  will  not  encroach  upon  their  domain. 

If  any  one  wants  twelve  tender  nymphaeas,  six  of  them  being  day-flowering 
and  six  night-flowering,  I  should  recommend:  A'.  Capensis,  blue;  A^.  gracilis, 
white;  Mrs.  C.  W.  Ward,  pink;  A',  pulcherrima,  blue;  AVm.  Stone,  blue; 
A^.  Zanzibarensis  rosea,  pink;  N.  dentata,  white;  George  Huster,  crimson; 


Water-lilies  and  Other  Aquatic  Plants 


55 


Frank  Trelease,  crimson;  O'Marana,  pink-red;  Jubilee,  white;  A'',  rubra 
rosea,   carmine. 

Nelumbiums  are  all  good,  and  all  require  most  Hberal  culture  to  obtain 
the  best  results.  Those  of  decided  colours  are:  A^  album  grandiflorum, 
white;  N.  kermesinum,  pmk;  A',  roseum,  deep  pink.  The  most  vigorous  and 
commendable  varieties  are:  Shiroman,  white,  double,  extra  choice;  N. 
Pekinensis  rubruin,  brilHant  rosy  carmine,  large  and  handsome,  and  its  double 
counterpart,  A^.  Pekinensis  rubruni  plenum.  The  forms  of  A^  pygmcca  are 
beautiful,  but  they  do  not  command  attention  beside  the  nobler  species 
of  the  type. 

As  tub  plants  the  tender  nymphasas  are  disappointing,  because  they 
are  such  rampant  growers  and  feeders  that,  when  confined  to  the  limits  of 
an  ordinary  tub  or  half -barrel,  they  are  soon  starved  almost  to  death.  The 
small  quantity  of  plant -food  is  soon  exhausted;  the  leaves  assume  a  sickly 
yellow-green  colour;  and  tubers  are  actually  found  in  summer,  when  the 
plants  should  be  m  vigorous  condition  and  producing  flowers  in  abundance. 
If  tubs  are  used  at  all,  have  such  as  will  measure  three  or  more  feet  m  diameter. 

r 


The  wonde.-ful  sustaining  DOwer  of  Victoria  regia.     Missouri   Botanical  Garden    St.  Louis 


Anticipate  the  wants  of  the  plants,  and  if  the  plants  are  vigorous  give  them 
a  liberal  supply  of  liquid  manure  occasionally.  They  revel  in  our  warmest 
summer  weather,  and  are  quite  at  home  m  the  Victoria  pond  at  a  temperature 


.56 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


of  eighty-five  to  ninety  degrees.  Many  failures  occur  through  early  trans- 
planting. The  check  caused  by  digging,  shipping,  etc.,  which  cannot  be 
avoided,  together  with  the  change  of  temperature  and  exposure,  are  responsible 
for  numerous  losses  which  the  vender  is  unjustly  expected  to  shoulder. 
The  proper  time  to  piant  nelumbium  tubers  is  when  the  prevailing  conditions 
of  the  weather  are  conducive  to  immediate  growth.  Bear  in  mind  that 
tender  nymphasas  do  not  start  into  growth  with  the  hardy  kinds,  and 
require  different  treatment. 


A  small  water  lily  pond  in  a  suburban  yard  at  Bond  Hill,  near  Cincinnati 

Victoria  regia  is,  indeed,  the  "royal"  water-lily,  and,  under  proper 
conditions,  is  of  easy  culture.  It  is  not  a  native  of  North  America,  and 
cannot  be  grown  as  a  hardy  water-lily.  It  requires  artificial  heat.  Some 
growers  believe  the  Victoria  can  be  grown  in  a  natural  pond  as  well  as  a 
tender  nymphsea,  but  very  few  if  any  such  cases  are  in  evidence.  The  first 
on  record  was  grown  in  North  Carolina,  and  even  there  it  was  not  safe  to 
plant  before  the  latter  part  of  June.  Occasionally  plants  will  succeed  in 
aquatic  basins  in  and  around  Philadelphia  without  artificial  heat,  but  the 
seasons  are  uncertain,  and  the  results  may  more  frequently  be  failure  than 


Water-lilies  and  Other  Aquatic  Plants 


57 


success.  In  localities  where  the  summer  days  and  nights  are  hot,  as  in 
St.  Louis,  Victorias  can  be  grown  successfully  without  artificial  heat.  In 
altitudes  where  cool  nights  are  experienced  in  summer,  it  is  useless  to 
try  to  dispense  with  artificial  heat.  The  only  royal  road  to  success  with 
Victoria  regia  is  to  grow  it  in  an  artificial  pond  where  heat  may  be  applied 
during  the  early  season.       A  temperature  of  eighty -five  to  ninety  degrees 


Another  view  of  the  same  pond 

must  be  maintained.  By  the  end  of  June  matured  plants  are  in  evidence, 
which  will  withstand  a  lower  temperature  with  impunity;  but,  as  a  rule, 
we  have  warm  weather  during  July  and  August,  and  the  plants  continue 
growing  and  flowering.  The  end  of  June  is  about  the  right  time  to  plant 
Victoria  rcgia  without  artificial  heat,  but  it  will  be  August  before  the 
plants  arrive  at  maturity,  when  the  season 'is  also  well  advanced. 

Victoria    Trickeri   succeeds   best   in   a   temperature   ten   degrees   lower 


158  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

than  V.  regia,  and  is  often  difficult  to  raise.  It  is  ruinous  to  seedlings,  if 
they  are  at  all  late,  to  try  to  force  them.  The  growth  will  be  soft  and  liable 
to  attacks  of  plant-lice,  and  when  plant-lice  take  up  their  abode  on  a  young 
leaf  and  remain  unmolested  the  plant  is  soon  crippled  for  life.  The  seed  of 
V .  Trickeri  germinates  in  a  temperature  of  from  sixty-five  to  seventy-five 
degrees,  and  seventy-five  to  eighty-five  degrees  is  the  limit.  Every  precau- 
tion must  be  taken  against  greenfly,  and  there  must  be  an  abundance  of 
light  and  ventilation  as  long  as  the  plants  remain  under  glass.  Plants  may 
be  set  out  in  the  open  with  more  certainty  of  success  than  with  V .  regia,  but 
seldom  before  the  end  of  June.  However,  if  a  temperature  of  seventy-five 
can  be  assured  before  then,  it  is  safe  to  plant  out  Victorias.  When  an  artificial 
temperature  of  eighty  degrees  can  be  maintained,  even  if  it  is  by  the  middle 
of  May,  plant  out  in  summer  quarters,  and  by  the  end  of  June  it  will  be  safe 
to  remove  all  protecting  devices,  such  as  steam  pipes,  frames,  or  sashes. 

Nymphseas,  nelumbiums  and  Victorias  are  the  favourites,  but  there 
are  numerous  other  plants  that  deserve  attention  and  which  add  considerably 
to  the  general  appearance  of  a  water  garden.  Where  an  assortment  of 
nymphasas  is  planted,  the  tender  or  tropical  varieties  break  the  monotony 
by  throwing  their  flowers  well  above  the  foliage,  although  this  feature  is 
objectionable  to  some  because  it  is  so  unlike  the  habit  of  our  native  pond- 
lilies.  Something  strong-growing  and  tall  is  really  needed.  Clumps  of 
papyrus  can  be  grown  on  the  margin  of  the  pond.  Their  tall,  graceful  plumes 
are  unequalled  by  any  other  aquatic  or  subaquatic  plant.  The  umbrella 
plant,  Cyperus  altermfolius,  is  another  useful  plant.  The  hedychium,  or 
butterfly  lily,  with  its  canna-like  foliage  and  white  flowers,  is  worth  growing; 
also  the  giant  arrow-head,  Sagittaria  Montevidensis,  Sagittaria  falcata,  and 
Jiissicra  longifoUa  are  very  desirable  plants.  These  are  all  tendei,  and  need 
the  protection  of  a  greenhouse  or  warm  shelter  in  winter. 

Among  hardy  plants  I  would  mention  Sagittaria  Japonica  fl.  pi., 
Acorns  Japoniciis  variegatus,  Typha  latifolia,  Pontederia  cordata,  and  Lythrum 
roseum  siiperbiini. 

A  few  of  the  minor  aquatic  plants  may  also  find  shelter  in  the  large 
aquatic  basm,  but  they  must  be  watched  carefully,  for,  although  they  are 
diminutive,  they  are  rapid  growers,  soon  interfering  with  the  develop- 
ment of  the  nymphasas  if  not  kept  in  bounds.  The  water  hyacinths,  Eichhornia 
crassipes  major  and  E.  aziirea,  are  more  curious  than  beautiful.  The  water- 
poppy,  Limnocharis  Hmnboldtii,  is  a  very  striking  yellow  flower,  and  blooms 


Water-lilies  and  Other  Aquatic  Plants  159 

profusely,  but  it  grows  prodigiously,  and  will  soon  fill  a  pond.  The  water- 
snowflake,  Limnanthemiun  Indiciim,  is  another  very  attractive  plant,  with 
pure  white  flowers  covered  with  hirsute  glands,  giving  it  the  appearance 
of  a  flake  of  snow.  Like  all  Hmnanthemums,  or  "floating  hearts,"  the  flowers 
are  produced  on  the  petioles  near  the  leaf;  after  several  flowers  are  produced, 
a  runner  with  another  leaf  and  bunch  of  flowers  follows,  and  so  on,  and  very 


Under  side  of  a  Victoria   leaf,  showing  the  beautiful  venation  and  the  spaces  where  air  is  held 

soon  a  large  surface  is  covered.  These  and  many  other  plants  are  interesting, 
but  because  of  their  wild  and  rambling  habits  I  prefer  to  keep  them  out  of 
the  pond  where  choice  nympha^as  are  grown. 

A  very  useful  and  desirable  plant  to  grow,  and  one  which  can  be  had 
in  flower  in  winter  in  a  small  space,  is  the  cape  pond-weed,  Aponogeton 
distachyiim.  It  is  perfectly  hardy,  and  one  of  the  first  to  put  in  an  appearance 
in  spring,  but  during  hot  summer  weather  it  is  liable  to  rest.  The  flowers 
are  white,  borne  on  a  forked  spike,  and  very  sweet-scented. 

I  may  also  mention  here  another  tender  aquatic  plant  that  is  travelling 
northward  and  proving  itself  hardy,  and  where  so  it  is  liable  to  become 
a  pest,  viz.,  the  parrot's  feather,  Myriophyllum  proserpinacoides.  When 
grown  in  a  large  tub  on  a  pedestal  or  a  vase,  where  its  branches  can  droop 
over  the  edges,  it  is  a  handsome  plant;  but  on  the  margin  of  a  pond,  stream, 


i6o  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

or  ditch,  where  the  ground  is  wet  or  water  shallow,  it  is  of  marvellous  growth. 
The  reason  why  these  plants  are  seldom  seen  in  such  a  luxurious  condition 
is  that  people  attempt  to  grow  too  many  plants  in  a  small  pond  or  even  in  a 
tub,  and  consequently  they  are  starved. 

Many  other  plants  that  are  subaquatic  are  deserving  of  general  culture, 
but  as  yet  are  rarely  seen  in  the  garden,  their  proper  place  being  the  "bog 
garden."  Many  odd  and  curious  yet  beautiful  plants  are  met  with  in  this 
group — sarracenias,  or  pitcher  plants,  the  Darlingtonia  Calijornica,  Drosera 
or  sundew  in  variety,  the  marsh  marigold  (Caltlia  palustris),  and  its  double 
form,  the  dainty  myosotis,  or  forget-me-not,  JMenyantJies  trifoliata,  Calla 
palustris,  Helonias  bullata,  Lobelia  cardinalis,  spireas  in  many  forms,  Calopo- 
gons,  and  the  queen  of  hardy  orchids,  Cypripedimn  spectahile.  Ferns,  too, 
are  capital  for  such  places.  The  "bog  garden"  seems  to  be  an  English 
idea,  and  a "  good  one,  too,  but  we  have  never  heard  of  any  notable 
example  of  it  in  America. 


CHAPTER  X 

Rock  Gardens  and  Alpine  Plants 

By  Edward  J,   Canning 

OME  of  the  most  exquisite  gems  in  the  vegetable  kingdom 
grow  above  the  tree-hne  on  mountains.  These  alpine  plants 
are  of  low  and  compact  growth,  herbaceous  or  succulent  in 
character,  and  produce  flowers  of  exquisite  beauty  and 
colouring.  They  grow  in  crevices  or  in  pockets,  often 
overhanging  and  completely  carpeting  projecting  ledges  of  rocks.  The 
attempt  to  cultivate  these  plants  has  led  to  the  making  of  rock  gardens, 
where  they  can  be  provided  with  all  the  conditions  under  which  they  grow 
naturally,  except,  of  course,  altitude,  which  is  of  the  least  importance.  Many 
of  the  rarer  alpine  plants  cannot  be  grown  successfully  unless  these  conditions 
are  given.  But  a  rock  garden  may  be  made  to  provide  a  home  not  only 
for  true  alpine  plants,  but  also  for  a  large  number  of  interesting  plants  of 
small  stature  from  much  lower  altitudes,  A  well-constructed  and  tastefully 
arranged  rock  garden  can  be  made  one  of  the  most  interesting  features  of  a 
country  home.  Meaningless  mounds  of  stones  too  often  seen  in  gardens 
and  in  public  parks  are  by  no  means  the  best .  conception  of  a  rock  garden. 
The  rock  garden  should  be  a  close  imitation  of  a  rocky  mountain,  though, 
of  course,  on  a  smaller  scale.  It  should  have  crevices,  pockets,  and  over- 
hanging ledges,  and  these  should  be  filled  with  soils  to  suit  the  requirements 
of  the  different  plants ;  some  need  loamy  or  peaty  soils,  while  others  require 
a  large  proportion  of  crushed  rock.  As  few  gardens  contain  a  natural  rocky 
bank  or  hillside,  most  rock  gardens  are,  therefore,  "artificial,"  in  the  sense 
that  they  are  made  by  man,  but  there  is  no  form  of  gardening  in  which  one 
has  more  opportunity  to  give  expression  to  his  natural  taste  than  in  the 
construction  and  planting  of  a  rock  garden. 

There  are  two  kinds  of  construction,  the  "open"  and  the  "under- 
ground." The  open  rock  garden  is  made  from  a  natural  bank  or  hillside, 
and  very  attractive  it  can  be  made,  especially  if  the  bank  or  hillside  skirts 
a  lawn  and  is  entirely  free  from  the  roots  of  large  trees. 

i6i 


i62  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

The  ' '  underground ' '  rock  garden  implies  a  cutting  made  below  the 
natural  level  of  the  ground.  This  method  is  adopted  when  a  garden  does 
not  contain  a  natural  bank  or  hillside.  The  site  chosen  for  an  underground 
rock  garden  must,  of  course,  be  governed  by  circumstances,  but,  if  possible, 
it  should  be  in  a  secluded  portion  of  the  grounds,  and  near  the  boimdary 
rather  than  in  the  center  of  an  open  place,  if  it  can  be  avoided.  The  size 
should  then  be  determined  and  the  top  soil  all  removed  for  replacing  when 
the  cutting  is  complete.  There  should  be  a  central  path  of  not  less  than  five 
feet  in  width,  and  this  should  wind  in  such  a  manner  that  the  cutting  shall 
produce  a  variety  of  aspects  to  suit  the  requirements  of  the  different  plants. 
The  cutting  should  begin  at  one  end,  being  shallow  at  first,  but  gradually 
deepening  until  it  is  six  or  eight  feet  below  the  ground -le^'el.  All  the  soil 
taken  out  should  be  placed  above  the  sides  of  the  cutting,  to  still  further 
increase  the  height  from  the  path  through  the  center. 

The  cutting  should  not  be  made  regular,  or  smooth,  but  should  present 
an  uneven  surface,  with  occasional  mounds  and  depressions  of  various 
sizes.  After  the  rough  outline  is  formed,  the  top  soil  should  all  be  placed 
evenly  over  the  whole  surface.  The  rocks  may  be  then  placed  in  position ; 
the  kinds  used  do  not  greatly  matter.  Sandstone  is  perhaps  best,  though 
very  beautiful  effects  may  be  made  with  common  boulders.  Cut  stones  or 
stones  with  flat  surfaces  should  not  be  used,  as  they  detract  from  the  natural 
appearance  a  rock  garden  should  possess.  The  rocks  should  be  of  various 
sizes,  and  arranged  so  that  their  most  rugged  sides  are  seen.  Like  the  rocks 
on  the  mountainside,  they  should  occasionally  stand  out  boldly,  almost 
perpendicularly  with  the  edge  of  the  path,  then  withdraw  into  hollow  recesses ; 
but  they  should  always  provide  crevices,  pockets,  and  ledges  for  the  reception 
of  the  plants.  If  a  rock  garden  is  extensive  enough,  a  cascade  will  greatly 
add  to  its  attractiveness.  Rugged  stone  steps  leading  up  to  a  sinuous  path 
among  the  rocks  on  the  upper  part  of  the  rockwork,  with  seats  placed  at 
intervals,  may  be  introduced,  and  will  add  greatly  to  one's  enjoyment  of  it. 

Spring  is  perhaps  the  best  time  for  planting  the  rock  garden,  though 
early  fall  is  also  good.  The  pockets  and  crevices  should  be  so  arranged 
that  the  water  does  not  run  off'  too  readily ;  at  the  same  time  it  is  necessary 
that  they  should  have  good  drainage,  if  the  soil  below  the  rocks  is  of  a  clayey 
nature.  They  should  be  well  filled  with  soils  to  suit  the  requirements  of 
the  different  plants.  For  members  of  the  heath  and  orchid  family  a  peaty 
soil  is  best;  for  the  mossy  and  starry  saxifrages,  low-growing  sedums,  and 


Rock  Gardens  and  Alpine  Plants  165 

semper vivums,  and  plants  of  a  more  or  less  succulent  character,  a  soil  largely 
composed  of  crushed  rock  or  gravel  is  best.  Plants  belonging  to  the  primrose 
and  lily  families  will  do  best  in  a  soil  consisting  largely  of  leaf  mould, 
while  for  the  crucifera?,  compositas,  and  most  other  families,  a  good  loam 
is  all  that  is  necessary. 

It  is  a  mistake  to  plant  a  rock  garden  too  thickly.  Each  plant  should 
have  ample  room  to  develop  without  encroaching  on  its  neighbour,  and 
those  plants  which  have  a  tendency  to  spread  unduly,  or  cannot  easily  be 
kept  in  check,  should  be  rigidly  excluded  from  the  rock  garden,  no  matter 
what  other  good  qualities  they  may  have,  for  it  is  difficult  to  eradicate  them 
from  a  rock  garden  when  once  they  are  established. 

The  matter  of  exposure  requires  careful  study.  The  true  alpines  are 
better  confined  to  the  northern  or  northeastern  aspects,  where  they  would 
be  protected  from  the  midday  sun.  Plants  of  a  succulent  nature,  such 
as  the  low-growing  sedums,  may  occupy  the  sunniest  positions.  The  more 
delicate  alpines,  such  as  the  alpine  primulas  or  androsaces,  should  be  planted 
in  sheltered  nooks.  Cerastiums,  aubrietras,  dwarf  phlox,  and  plants  of 
a  similar  habit,  should  be  planted  to  overhang  ledges  of  rock,  while  the 
starry  saxifrages  and  sempervivums  may  occupy  holes  or  crevices  in  the 
rocks.  For  the  steepest  places,  or  where  it  may  be  difficult  for  some 
plants  to  obtain  a  foothold,  the  wild  ginger,  Asariim  Canadense,  Arenaria 
Balearica,  or  plants  of  a  like  habit,  are  excellent.  On  the  top  of  the  rocks, 
at  the  most  conspicuous  points,  or  at  the  turn  of  the  path,  may  be  located 
such  stately  plants  as  Acanthus  mollis,  Spiraea  Aruncus,  or  a  small  group 
of  Aqiiilegia  Canadensis.  A  small  border,  varying  in  width,  and  edged  with 
small  rough  stones,  looks  well  at  the  foot  of  the  rocky  slopes,  and  not  only 
serves  as  an  edging  for  the  path,  but  will  accommodate  many  plants,  such  as 
the  dwarf  composites,  ajugas,  or  Iceland  poppies. 

Spring-blooming  bulbs  may  be  planted  in  masses  among  the  plants, 
such  as  narcissus,  scillas,  snowdrops,  chionodoxas,  grape  hyacinths,  and 
crocuses.  These  blossom  early  and  do  not  interfere  with  the  regular  rock- 
garden  plants.  Tulips  and  Dutch  hyacinths  should  never  be  planted  in 
a  rock  garden;  such  highly  developed  forms  are  out  of  place  as  much  as  a 
Japanese  chrysanthemum  would  be  in  a  wild  garden. 

The  whole  rock  garden  should  be  enclosed  with  either  flowering  shrubs 
or  evergreens  planted  in  masses.  These  give  seclusion  and  shelter  from 
cold  winds,  and  in  their  shade  native  ferns  may  be  planted. 


i66  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

The  approaches  to  a  rock  garden  shoukl  not  be  too  abrupt ;  a  few  rocks 
placed  outside  along  the  path  leading  to  the  rock  garden,  and  also  among 
the  shrubs  which  enclose  it,  help  to  give  it  a  much  more  natural  appearance 

The  propagation  of  alpine  and  other  plants  suitable  for  rock  gardens 
is  simple.  All  may  be  raised  from  seeds,  and  most  of  them  by  cuttings  or 
division  of  the  plants.  The  writer  raises  his  plants  from  seeds  sown  m 
February,  in  four -inch  pots  of  light  sandy  soil,  in  a  warm  greenhouse.  The 
seedlings  are  transplanted  as  soon  as  large  enough  to  handle,  and  gradually 
given  more  air  as  they  increase  in  size.  By  the  end  of  April  they  are  usually 
large  enough  to  plant  out  permanently  in  the  rock  garden.  If  one  does 
not  have  a  greenhouse,  the  seeds  may  be  sown  m  a  coldframe,  in  shallow 
drills,  in  April,  and  transplanted  to  the  rock  garden  in  early  fall. 

The  whole  rock  garden  should  be  replanted  and  given  fresh  soil  about 
every  four  o^  "^.ve  years.  The  general  care  required  is  usually  less  than 
for  an  ordinary  flower  garden.  In  dry  weather  in  summer  the  plants  should 
receive  water  at  least  once  in  two  days,  and  in  winter  the  plants  which  over- 
hang ledges  of  rock  should  be  protected  with  branches  of  hemlock  or  pine. 

Following  is  a  list  of  some  of  the  plants  most  suitable  for  a  rock  garden, 
the  majority  of  which  the  writer  has  proved  to  be  hardy  in  New  England. 

Some    of    the    Best   of   the    True  Alpines 

Androsace  alpina  Gentiana  verna 

"  sarmentosa  Geum  montanum 

Anemone  alpina  Globularia  nana 

Antennaria  alpina  Leontopodium  alpinum  (Edelweiss) 

Aquilegia  alpina  Linaria  alpina 

Armeria  alpina  Lychnis  alpina 

Cerastium  alpinum  Potentilla  aurea 

Cheiranthus  alpinus  Primula  Mistassmica 

Campanula  Garganica  Reseda  glauca 

muralis  Saxifraga  csesia 
pulla  "  Cotyledon 

rotundifolia  "  "  var.  pyramidalis 

turbinata  "  crustata 

Waldsteinii  "  geranioides 

Dianthus  alpinus  "  longifoHa 

■'  glaciahs  "  oppositifolia 


Rock  Gardens  and  Alpine  Plants 


169 


Dianthus  petrseus 
Doronicum  glaciale 
Draba  alpina 
Epimedium  alpinum 


Silene  acaulis 
Soldanella  alpina 
Veronica  alpina 


Ajuga  Genevensis 

reptans 
Antennaria  plantaginea 
Anthemis  nobilis 
Arabis  albida 
Aubrietia  deltoidea 
Cerastium   Bierbersteinii 

purpurascens 

tomentosum 
Daphne  Cneorum 
Linnasa  borealis  var.  Americana 
Mitchella  repens 
Phlox  reptans 

Plants    Most   Suitable 
Anemone  Japonica 
Convallaria  majalis 
Cornus  Canadensis 
Cypripedium  parviflorum 
"  pubescens 

"  spectabile 

Dicentra  spectabilis 
Dictannus  albus 
Funkia  lancifolia 

var.  albo-marginata 
"        ovata 
"        Sieboldiana 
Helleborus  niger 


Plants    for   Overhanging    Ledges 

Phlox  subulata  alba 

atropurpurea 


Sedum  acre 
album 
Hispanicum 
"        purpureum 
Sieboldi 

var.  variegatum 
ternatum 
Stellaria  graminea 
Holostea 
Veronica  rupestris 
Vinca  minor 

FOR   the    Deepest   Recesses 
Lobelia  cardinalis 
syphilitica 
Orchis  latifolia 
Pachysandra  terminalis 
Polygonatum  biflorum 
Saxifraga  crassifolia 
Tiarella  cordifolia 
Trillium  cernuum 

grandiflorum 
sessile 
Uvularia  grandiflora 
Viola  Canadensis 
striata 


Plants   for   Conspicuous    Positions 


Acanthus  mollis 


Acanthus  candelabrum 


lyo 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


Aquilegia  Canadensis 
cserulea 
"  Olympica 

Dictamnus  Fraxinella 
Digitalis  purpurea 
Eryngium  planum 


Fritillaria  imperialis 
Lychnis  Chalcedonica 
Papaver  nudicaule 

"         orientale 
Spiraea  Aruncus 
Verhascum  Chaixii 


Plants   to   Be    Used    in    Pockets 


Achillea  tomentosa 

PtaiTnica  var.  flore  pleno 
Adonis  vernalis 
AlHum  Moly 
Alyssum  argenteum 

"  saxatile 

Anaphahs  margaritacea 
Anemone  patens  var.  Nuttalliana 

"  Pulsatilla 

Arenaria  Balearica 

' '  graminif  olia 

Armeria  maritima 

"  "        var.  Laucheaha 

Asarum  Canadense 

"        caudatum 
Campanula  Carpatica 
persicifolia 
Ceratostigma  plumbaginoides 
Colchicum  autumnale 
Coreopsis  rosea 
Corydalis  glauca 
nobilis 
Cotyledon  spinosa 
Dianthus  atrorubens 
fragrans 

' '  plumarius 

Dicentra  Canadensis 

"  cucullaria 

Dodocatheon  Meadia 


Doronicum  Caucasicum 
Draba  incana  var.  arabisans 
Dracocephalum  nutans 
Epig^a  repens 
Galax  aphylla 
Gentiana  acaulis 

"  Andrews! 

"  Saponaria 

' '  verna 

Geranium  Robertianun 
Gypsophila  repens 
Helianthemum  lavanduleefolium 

vulgare 
Hepatica  acutiloba 

' '  triloba 

Heuchera  sanguinea 
Iberis  sempervirens 

' '       Tenoriana 
Iris  pumila 

' '     verna 
Leucojum  aestivum 
Linum  perenne 
Lotus  corniculatus 
Lychnis  Viscaria  var.  splendens 
Mertensia  Virginica 
Oenothera  Missouriensis 
Ornithogalum  umbellatum 
Platycodon  grandiflorum  var.  Mariesii 
Polemonium  humile 


.  '■'L'\)kUr'^k; 


Rock  Gardens  and  Alpine  Plants 


173 


Polemonium  reptans 
Potentilla  Sibbaldia 
splendens 
Primula  elatior 
farinosa 
"         officinalis 
vulgaris 
Prunella  grandiflora 
Pyrola  rotundifolia 
Rhaz3^a  orientalis 
Rhexia  Virginica 
Sabbatia  campestris 
Sagina  procumbens 
Saxifraga  aizoides 
' '  Aizoon 

"  granulata 

"  umbrosa 

Scilla  Sibirica 
Sedum  roseum 

Calla  palustris 
Lobelia  cardinalis 
"         syphilitica 
Myosotis  palustris 
Parnassia  Caroliniana 
"  palustris 


Sedum  spectabile 
Sempervivum  araclinoideum 
' '  fimbriatum 

"  Pomelii 

"  tectorum 

Shortia  galacifolia 
Silene  Zawadskii 
Statice  Gmelini 
Stokesia  cyanea 
Trautvetteria  palmata 
Trollius  Asiaticus 

' '        laxus 
Tunica  Saxifraga 
Veronica  gentianoides 
incana 
' '  Ponas 

' '  spuria 

Viola  cucullata 
Waldsteinia  fragarioides 

Plants   for   Moist   Places 

Pinguicula  vulgaris 
Potentilla  palustris 
Saxifraga  Pennsylvanica 
Spigelia  ]\Iarilandica 
Spiranthes  cernua 
Ranunculus  flammula 


CHAPTER  XI 

The    Home    Window    Garden 

By  Edith  Loring  Fullerton 


||1E  HAVE  had  only  three  years'  experience  in  window  garden- 
ing, and  have  made  no  special  study  of  the  subject.  When 
my  husband  and  I  first  became  interested,  we  found 
great  difficulty  in  getting  advice  of  practical  value.  The 
articles  we  read  were  either  too  technical,  or  so  vague 
and  lacking  in  detail  that  we  decided  to  go  right  ahead  anyhow,  making 
our  own  blunders  in  our  own  way;  and  we  resolved  to  have  as  much  "fun" 
as  possible,  whatever  happened.  Our  point  of  view  has  been  expressed  by 
the  man  of  the  family  in  a  letter  to  a  friend  as  follows : 

"The  pictures  which  I  send  you  show  the  entire  plants  (without  any 
frills  or  fake),  which  were  raised  in  this  particular  window  by  two  'simon- 
pure'  amateurs,  in  a  cheaply  constructed  house,  alleged  to  be  warmed  by  a 
gas-belching  furnace  during  an  erratic  winter  and  a  phenomenal  February, 
with  a  further  plant- handicap  of  a  new-born  babe,  which  was  not  only  first 
in  our  thoughts,  but  required  a  high  temperature  to  be  maintained  by  night 
as  well  as  by  day.  Our  window  garden  is  a  two-by-four  affair,  composed 
of  a  couple  of  greenhouse  sash  which  I  screw  on  in  the  fall  and  take  off  in 
the  spring,  and  you  could  buy  the  whole  thing,  bulbs  and  all,  I  presume,  for 
five  dollars." 

This  is  a  masculine  way  of  summing  up  the  case.  The  photographs 
on  pages  179,  180,  and  183  are  our  own  pictures  of  our  own  plants.  If  I 
may  paraphrase,  "they  are  poor  things,  but  our  own."  The  other  pictures 
which  accompany  this  description  show  better  plant  specimens  and  greater 
photographic  skill,  but  the  results,  I  believe,  are  not  beyond  the  reach  of 
the  skilled  amateur.     Following  is  a  detailed  description  of  our  plant  nursery: 

There  are  two  adjoining  windows  on  the  south  side  of  our  house  giving 
on  to  a  small  balcony.  In  October  we  remove  the  sash  from  these  windows 
and  screw  up  the  window  garden.  It  is  really  a  bulk  window  with  a  glass 
roof ;  the  roof  is  on  hinges,  and  can  be  raised  to  admit  of  ventilation.     The 


176 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


floor  of  this  window  is  half  a  foot  below  the  level  of  the  window-sills.  A 
second  floor  resting  on  brackets  is  flush  with  the  sills.  This  makes  an  air- 
space under  the  pots,  which  keeps  out  much  of  the  cold.  The  balcony  also 
gives  good  protection,  else  we  should  have  to  take  greater  precautions  against 


A  successful  window  garden 

sudden  changes  in  temperature.  The  only  heat  the  garden  receives  is  from 
the  room.  We  have  had  no  trouble  with  the  cold,  however,  but  rather 
the  reverse,  and  have  to  hang  a  sheet  on  the  outside  of  the  window  to 
subdue  the  intensity  of  the  sun. 

In  the  window  we  have  a  floor  space  four  feet  long  by  one  and  a  half 
feet  wide.  In  this  we  have  raised  and  brought  into  bloom  eighteen  pots 
of  bulbs  and  half  a  dozen  pots  of  various  kinds  of  flowers. 


The  Home  Window  Garden 


179 


Last  September  we  took  up  such  plants  from  the  garden  as  we  wished 
to  bring  into  the  house — heliotrope,  begonias,  abutilon,  ageratum,  coleus, 
and  geraniums.  The  three  former  were  potted  and  cut  way  back;  the  latter 
were  sHps.  These  gave  us  some  flowers  while  the  bulbs  were  being  started. 
As  the  bulbs  came  into  the  window  we  relegated  the  ageratum,  coleus,  and 
geraniums  to  other  parts  of  the  house  where  we  have  flower-shelves  in  the 
windows.     We  found,  also,  that  the  garden  was  too  warm  and  sunny  for 


The  window  garden  as  seen  from  the  inside 


i8o 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


The  common  heliotrope 


A  truss  of  hyacinth 


begonias  and   a    little  Priimtla   obcojiica,  so   they  went    into   a    northeast 
window,  where  they  did  wonderfully  well. 

We  planted  the  bulbs  in  October,  and  tried  to  follow  the  many  directions 
we  had  read  of.  "Keep  them  dark,"  and  "Keep  them  cool,"  and  "Keep 
them  wet,"  and  "  Keep  them  dry,"  and  "  Keep  them  in  the  cellar,"  and  "  Keep 
them  in  the  attic,"  and  "Sink  the  pots  in  the  garden,"  and  "  Bury  them  in 
moss  or  sawdust  in  the  cellar,"  etc.;  but  unforeseen  demands  on  our 
time  made  it  necessary  for  them  to  take  care  of  themselves.     They  had 


One  of  the  primroses — Primula  obconica 


A  good  cyclamen 


The  Home  Window  Garden 


■8j 


one  good  thorough  watering  when  planted,  and  were  placed  on  a  dark 
swinging  shelf  in  the  cellar.  A  month  later  we  found  them  bone  dry  and 
no  sign  of  top-growth  except  one  Paper  White  narcissus. 

Root-growth  had  apparently  done  very  well,  so,  after  watering,  the 
entire  lot  were  transferred  to  the  attic,  where  they  had  subdued  light.  We 
kept  them  moist,  and 
they  began  to  grow  in 
a  very  good  succession. 

The  Paper  White 
narcissi  were  the  first 
to  appear,  and  we  put 
them  for  a  week  or  so 
in  a  west  window  before 
bringing  them  into  the 
strong  sunlight  of  the 
window  garden.  As 
each  kind  came  along 
we  treated  it  in  the 
same  way,  and  we  had 
flowering  bulbs  from 
December  loth  to  the 
middle  of  May. 
Our  Spanish  iris  failed 
to  bloom,  though  we 
had  a  splendid  crop  of 
foliage  (which  looked 
like  garlic). 

The  following  is 
our  stock  of  bulbs: 
Twelve  single  Roman 
hyacinths  (pink,  blue, 
yellow,  and  white),  two 
S  cilia  Cubana,  six 
freesias,  three  Narcissus 
gloriosiis,  three  Nar- 
cissus  Horsfieldii,    four 

Narcissus     Emperor,    six  T,,  polyanthus  narcissus-Narcissus  Ta.etta 


184  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

Narcissus  pocticiis  ornatiis,  six  Spanish  iris,  six  Paper  White  narcissi,  six 
Giant  White  narcissi,  six  grape  hyacinths,  and  four  cyclamens. 

And  this  was  the  order  and  duration  of  their  bloom :  Giant  and  Paper 
White  narcissi,  December  loth,  for  four  weeks;  white  hyacinths,  December 
20th,  for  three  weeks;  cyclamen,  January  ist  to  May  15th;  freesia, 
January  loth,  for  six  weeks;  blue  hyacinths,  January  20th,  for 
two  weeks;  pink  hyacinths,  February  ist,  for  two  weeks;  Narcissus 
gloriosus,  February  ist,  for  four  weeks;  yellow  hyacinths,  February  loth, 
for  two  weeks;  Narcissus  Horsficldii,  February  loth,  for  six  weeks; 
grape  hyacinths,  February  27th,  for  three  weeks;  Narcissus  Emperor, 
February  28th,  for  three  weeks. 

We  planted  the  bulbs  in  pure  sandy  leaf -mould  mixed  with  a  little 
commercial  fertihser,  first  placing  good  drainage  (stones)  and  plenty  of 
charcoal  in  the  bottom  of  the  pot.  One  season  we  used  garden  soil,  and 
were  miuch  troubled  with  caking,  worms,  and  insects.  With  the  leaf-mould 
we  have  not  been  troubled  with  worms  or  insects  of  any  kind,  and  the  earth 
has  been  perfection  as  far  as  consistency  goes. 

We  planted  three  Roman  hyacinths  in  a  six-inch  pot  (and  we  learned 
that  it  is  wise  to  plant  only  one  colour  in  a  pot,  as  they  bloom  at  different 
times),  two  Horsfieldii,  three  Emperor,  six  Poeticus,  and  six  Spanish  iris, 
each  in  eight-inch  pots ;  three  Paper  Whites,  three  Giant  Whites,  six  freesias, 
and  three  Gloriosus,  each  in  six-inch  pots;  six  grape  hyacinths  in  five-inch 
pot,  and  we  found  we  might  just  as  well  have  had  twelve  in  the  same  sized 
pot.  We  planted  two  scillas  in  an  eight-inch  pot,  and  were  much  interested 
to  see  what  they  would  do.  The  catalogue  described  them  as  bearing  large 
clusters  of  blossoms  twelve  inches  in  diameter.  When  these  two  bulbs 
showed  seven  buds  we  decided  that  the  entire  family  would  have  to  move 
out  when  they  bloomed.  It  was  by  planting  several  bulbs  in  one  pot  that 
we  had  such  continued  bloom. 

The  Paper  Whites  were  glorious,  some  bulbs  sending  up  three  flower- 
stalks,  each  one  bearing  twelve  to  fourteen  blossoms.  Giant  Whites  differ 
from  the  Paper  AVhites  only  in  being  a  little  larger,  sturdier,  and  a  little 
later.  The  white  Roman  hyacinths  sent  up  many  stalks  from  each  bulb. 
They  have  a  profusion  of  leaves — cpite  different  from  the  common  hyacinth 
that  one  usually  sees  in  the  garden.  The  white  was  the  first  to  bloom,  the 
blue  following,  then  the  pink,  yellow,  and  red.  The  blue  sent  its  flower- 
stalks  up  very  high,  and  the  leaves  were  so  long  they  curled  over  in  many 


The  Home  Window  Garden 


87 


fantastic  ways ;  the  pink  had  a  tendency  to  bloom  in  the  bulb,  and  the  yellow 
kept  its  leaves  in  a  pretty  circle  around  it,  reminding  one  of  a  canary  in  its 
cage.  Wehadone 
peculiar  red  one  which 
was  bought  for  pink.  It 
bloomed  a  good  deal  like 
the  yellow,  only  it  sent 
the  flowers  well  above 
the  leaves.  The  grape 
hyacinths  are  hke  doll- 
flowers,  with  their  tiny 
blue  bells  edged  with 
white. 

Cyclamen  ?  Well, 
cyclamen  is  a  perfect 
wonder  !  Last  year  we 
had  one  bulb  which  pro- 
duced for  us  only  four 
blossoms,  and  as  the 
baby  picked  two  in 
their  infancy  our  yield 
was  net  great.  In  the 
spring  it  was  placed 
by  accident  among  the 
empty  pots  on  the  north 
side  of  the  house.  In 
August  we  found  it  with 
four  new  leaves  pushing 
up.  It  was  repotted  and 
placed  where  the  rain 
could  reach  it,  and  left 
alone  until  brought  in 
the  house.  It  started  to 
bloom  in  Januar}^   and 

produced  fifty-four  elegant  blossoms  (see  page  180).  Then  there  were 
three  little  cyclamens  besides.  One  of  these  had  four  leaves  and  twenty- 
five  blossoms.      We  thought  it  paid  !       One  bulb  lost  all  its  flower-buds 


A  novel  way  of  growing  wild  flowers  in  the  home  window 


i88  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

but  made  fine  growth  for  the  following  year.  The  blossoms  were  all  different, 
the  large  one  white  with  cerise  center,  one  pure  white,  and  the  other  a  lovely- 
pink  with  a  deeper  center. 

Freesias — sweet,  dainty  surprises  that  they  are  !  We  always  marvel 
when  the  buds  come  out  from  among  the  grass-like  foliage,  then  swell  and 
burst  into  the  exquisite  yellow,  bell-shaped  flowers.  From  our  six  bulbs 
we  had  thirty-four  branches  of  bloom,  giving  us  six  weeks  of  dehght  in 
their  spicy  odour. 

The  whiteness  of  the  Poeticus  Ornatus  is  equalled  only  by  the  dogwood 
of  spring,  and  Nature  certainly  used  her  finest  paint-brush  when  she  painted 
the  delicate  crimson  line  on  the  edge  of  the  cup. 

We  were  a  little  doubtful  about  the  Narcissus  gloriosns,  as  we  had  never 
seen  it,  but  we  are  friends  for  life  now,  for  nothing  could  be  lovelier  than 
the  long  stalk  surmounted  by  fourteen  little  blossoms  with  their  deep  orange 
cup  and  cream-white  perianth.  We  asked  our  little  daughter  to  smell 
them,  and  she  immediately  said,  "Apple  sauce."  Could  anything  describe 
their  fragrance  better? 

Then  the  Horsfieldii,  with  its  long,  yellow  trumpet  and  creamy  perianth 
— a  flower  truly  fit  for  the  gods  !  The  perianth  measures  three  and  one-half 
inches  in  diameter,  and  the  trumpet  one  and  one-half  inches  long. 

Abutilon  blooms  nearly  all  the  time,  and  hehotrope,  when  it  once  starts, 
is  not  far  behind. 

As  the  plants  came  into  bud  we  gave  them  fertiliser  in  liquid  form  once 
every  week  or  two,  and  twice  during  the  winter  worked  a  little  of  the  dry 
food  into  the  earth,  being  careful  not  to  get  it  too  near  the  roots. 

A  Kenilworth  ivy  and  two  kinds  of  asparagus — .4.  Sproigeri  in  a  hanging 
basket  and  .4.  plnmosus  on  a  bracket — completed  our  garden.  That  is  all, 
except  that  we  feel  we  have  summer  always  with  us. 


CHAPTER   XII.     COLDFRAMES   FOR    WINTERING    PLANTS 

I.   COLDFRAMES  FOR  THE  COUNTRY  HOME 

By  J.   N.   Gerard 

BOUT  coldframes  I  have  always  had  varying  opinions,  some- 
times considering  seriously  the  arrangement  of  all  borders 
so  that  they  could  be  covered,  and  then  again  loathing  the 
sight  of  sash.  It  is  not  so  much  that  extraneous  things  in 
the  garden  offend  one's  esthetic  sense  (for  a  gardener, 
curiously  enough,  becomes  oblivious  to  labels,  stakes,  and  some  other  non- 
ornamental  things),  but  frames  require  constant  attention,  and  in  winter 
we  have  too  much  wet  and  slush  for  comfortable  work  out-of-doors.  Of 
course,  thousands  of  amateurs  have  frames  of  violets  and  pansies,  usually 
near  the  house,  from  which  they  gather  pleasure  as  well  as  flowers — if  they 
have  good  luck.  That  is  easy  enough ;  but  speaking  in  a  broader  way  of 
the  full  use  of  frames  in  a  garden,  the  problem  becomes  more  difficult. 
Any  one  who  amuses  himself  with  a  general  collection  of  plants  will 
find  that  frames  or  some  sort  of  covering  or  protection  are  of  use  at  all  seasons. 
Snowdrops  and  certain  irises  will  begin  to  flower  at  the  first  thaw  and  while 
the  snow  is  on,  and  should  have  overhead  covering.  Later,  some  of  the 
small  alpines  are  quick  to  welcome  the  rising  sun,  and  if  they  can  be  pro- 
tected for  awhile  they  not  only  pass  unscathed  by  the  warm  winds  of  the 
season,  but  the  open  sash  helps  somewhat  to  keep  them  in  a  damp  atmosphere. 
Mountain  plants  do  not  usually  suft'er  from  cold,  but  from  the  sun's  scorching 
rays  in  a  clear  sky.  On  the  Alps,  as  in  the  tropics,  the  rays  are  tempered 
by  abundant  vaporous  moisture.  If  one  has  only  a  few  plants,  oftentimes 
a  single  sheet  of  glass,  supported  overhead  on  wires,  answers  for  plants 
which  cannot  withstand  excessive  moisture. 

A.s  the  season  advances,  "summer-ripe"  bulbs  and  plants  have  stored 
up  their  food  for  another  season,  and  are  ready  to  rest  for  a  shorter  or  longer 
period.  For  these,  frames  are  again  the  ready  way  to  keep  away  wet  or 
moisture  so  that  they  will  not  be  stimulated  unduly.  As  the  growing  season 
ends,  the  fram.es  come  m.ore  into  play,  for  we  not  only  have  to  provide  for 

189 


IQO  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

blooming  plants  and  forcing  bulbs,  but  perhaps  there  are  a  lot  of  new  things 
which  look  hardy,  but  which  one  would  rather  not  trust  outside  until  one 
has  a  larger  stock.  Then  there  will  be  sHps  and  pots  of  seeds,  and  surely 
the  flotsam  and  jetsam  which  is  attracted  to  the  amateur. 

In  short,  there  is  no  question  of  the  usefulness  and  consequent  pleasure 
of  frames,  even  m  a  garden  of  hardy  things.  No  one  knows  better  than  the 
grower  of  hardy  plants  that  hardiness  is  a  comparative  term,  and  that  plants 
as  well  as  humans  are  subject  to  "consumption  and  sudden  death,"  so 
that  success  is  the  result  of  vigilance,  constant  care,  and  propagation.  Con- 
sequently, if  we  wish  to  have  the  nice  things  and  not  let  our  garden  run  to 
magenta -coloured  phlox,  we  must  protect,  when  necessary,  those  things  which 
are  injured  by  thawing,  or  are  m  some  years  uncertain.  It  is  not  the 
freezing  which  injures  most  hardy  plants,  for  their  cells  are  adjusted  to 
expansion,  but  quick  thawing  will  rack  many  of  them  seriously  when  at  all 
advanced  in  growth;  most  things  making  such  growth  being  m  a  state  of 
nature  protected  by  long-lying  snow. 

To  recur  again  to  the  seamy  side  of  the  subject.  Some  years  ago, 
being  tired  of  airmg  frames  m  stormy  weather,  as  a  diversion,  I  raised  the 
sash  of  my  frames  which  were  alongside  of  my  greenhouse  to  meet  the  incli- 
nation of  its  roof,  and  by  digging  a  path  at  the  back  had  head  room,  with 
access  through  the  furnace  section.  After  that  the  operator  worked  m  com- 
fort and  took  his  pleasure  less  sadly,  especially  after  I  had  knocked  out  a 
part  of  the  side  of  the  greenhouse,  and  grew  orchids  with  the  right  hand 
and  rested  hardy  plants  under  the  left. 


II.   An   Amateur's   Experience 
By  James   Wood 

CoLDFRAMES  are  not  sufficiently  appreciated  by  the  general  horticultural 
public.  Under  proper  management  so  much  can  be  done  with  them  to 
lengthen  the  outdoor  season  of  flowers  and  vegetables,  in  both  spring  and 
fall,  and  so  many  things  can  be  safely  carried  through  the  winter  with  them, 
that  it  seems  a  pity  they  are  not  more  generally  used.  Even  where  green- 
houses are  run,  coldframes  are  of  great  service  in  aiding  their  work. 

Coldframes  may  be  very  cheaply  constructed  where  parties  are  willing 
to  renew  them  every  few  years,  or  they  may  be  substantially  built  where 


Coldframes  for  Wintering  Plants 


191 


long-continued  use  is  required.  In  the  former  case,  cheap  "box  boards" 
may  be  used  for  the  sides  and  ends,  with  spruce  two  by  two-and-a-half-mch 
strips  for  the  cross-pieces  to  support  the  abutting  edges  of  the  sash.  For 
substantial  structures  it  is  well  to  build  the  front,  back,  and  ends  of  brick, 
twelve  inches  in  thickness,  with  a  four-inch  air  space  in  the  center,  with  suf- 
ficient cross-tie  bricks  to  make  the  wall  strong  and  secure.  These  walls 
should  be  covered  with  planks  securely  fastened  by  bolts  built  into  the 
wall.     To  these  planks  the  cross-pieces  or  rafters  are  fastened.     Two  by 


Cheap  but  effective  pits  for  wintering  tender  shrubs.    They  are  protected   by  a  windbreak  of  willows.    The  straw  and 
matting  are  used  in  very  cold  weather 

three  locust  pieces  are  best  for  these.  The  back  should  be  twelve  inches 
higher  than  the  front  for  the  ordinary  six-foot  width,  to  give  good  rain- 
drainage  and  an  advantageous  exposure  to  the  sun.  The  planks  on  front 
and  back  w^alls  should  have  the  same  inclination,  so  that  the  sash  may  be 
easily  slid  upon  them. 

The  ordinary  commercial  sash  is  three  feet  wide  and  six  long.  The 
glass  may  be  six  by  eight,  where  the  sash  is  liable  to  rough  usage,  or  ten  by 
fourteen  where  it  is  carefully  handled  and  well  protected.     There  will  be 


192  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

three  rows  of  the  larger  glass  and  five  of  the  smaller.  The  larger  glass  gives 
rather  the  better  results. 

The  writer  knows  of  no  better  way  to  give  an  idea  how  coldframes  may 
be  used  than  to  state  just  what  the  row  with  which  he  is  most  f  amihar  contains 
in  early  winter.  This  row  is  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  long  and  is 
covered  with  forty  sashes.  It  fronts  southeast,  and  is  well  protected  from 
cold  winds.  This  position  is  better  than  any  other,  as  the  morning  sun  is 
more  potent  than  the  afternoon. 

At  the  west  end  of  the  frames  there  are  four  sashes  of  violets — two  of 
Marie  Louise,  and  two  of  a  very  large  and  double  Russian  variety.  These 
w^ere  rooted  offsets  planted  in  June  last.  The  plants  made  a  good  growth 
during  the  summer  and  autumn,  and  are  now  full  of  buds  which  will  give 
splendid  bloom  in  the  early  spring.  Next  are  four  sashes  of  pansies.  The 
plants  were  set  in  October,  and  will  give  a  grand  bloom  in  February  if  the 
weather  is  favourable,  or  in  March  and  April  if  the  season  is  backward. 
There  are  three  sashes  of  English  daisies,  grown  in  the  open  ground  from 
offsets  of  the  choicest  selected  plants  grown  the  previous  season  from  seed. 
These  were  planted  in  the  frames  in  September  and  are  now  full  of 
bloom.  The  bloom  will  continue  until  next  June.  This  daisy  is  more 
valuable  than  is  generally  known.  Next  are  three  sashes  of  polyanthus. 
These  will  give  a  wealth  of  bloom  throughout  the  spring.  This  plant  is 
generally  hardy  in  the  latitude  of  New  York  City,  but  it  is  desirable  to  have 
the  flowers  before  the  outdoor  bloom. 

Then  follow  six  sashes  of  lettuce  of  the  variety  known  as  mignonette. 
Three  of  these  were  planted  in  September,  so  as  to  be^'kdvanced  to  heading 
when  winter  set  in.  These  will  be  in  prime  condition  for  use  in  February 
and  March.  The  rest  were  planted  six  weeks  later,  so  as  to  be  strong  plants 
through  the  winter,  to  head  up  in  April  and  May.  The  most  sohd,  hard- 
heading  sorts,  that  must  develop  very  slowly,  attain  a  higher  quaHty  in 
coldframes  than  when  grown  in  any  other  way. 

Next  are  two  sashes  of  tea-roses,  stored  for  planting  out-of-doors  for 
summer  bloom.  Tender  and  half-hardy  roses  can  be  carried  through  the 
winter  in  coldframes  in  the  best  condition  for  summer  bloom.  They  can  be 
packed  closely,  with  a  sprinkle  of  dry  leaves  among  the  tops. 

Then  follow  ten  sashes  of  cauliflowers,  five  in  a  row,  with  rows  twenty 
inches  apart.  These  were  put  in  about  October  ist,  and  will  head  in  April 
and  May-     Between  these  rows  are  two  rows  to  each  space  of  savoury-leaved 


Coldframes  for  Wintering  Plants  193 

spinach.  This  was  transplanted  closely  in  rows  in  time  to  be  at  the  best 
development  in  November.  It  keeps  in  perfect  condition  for  use  all  through 
the  winter,  and  attains  a  quality  never  found  in  outdoor  spinach.  When 
it  is  removed,  the  ground  is  entirely  occupied  by  the  cauliflower. 

The  last  space  of  five  sashes  is  occupied  with  sweet  peas  in  rows  two 
feet  apart.  The  seed  was  put  in  early  in  October,  so  that  the  plants  were 
five  or  six  inches  high  at  the  beginning  of  winter.  They  remain  dormant 
until  spring,  when  they  grow  slowly.  Here  and  in  the  cauliflower  and  rose 
spaces  the  soil  is  two  feet  below  the  glass.  As  the  vines  grow,  short  brush 
is  used  to  support  them  until  the  glass  is  reached,  when  the  sashes  are  removed. 
The  plants  will  stand  light  freezing  without  injury.  The  rows  are  then 
carefully  set  with  tall  brush,  and  the  finest  of  fine  blooms  come  about  the 
middle  of  May.  The  flowering  will  continue  until  the  earliest  outdoor  blooms 
are  ready.     At  no  other  season  are  the  sweet  peas  so  much  appreciated. 

As  space  is  made  vacant  by  the  removal  of  lettuce,  seeds  of  lettuce, 
beets,  cauliflower,  cabbage,  cucumbers,  and  muskmelons  in  pots,  and  other 
things,  are  put  in  for  the  plants  to  be  set  outside  for  early  use.  Flowering 
annuals  may  also  be  started. 

With  greenhouses  devoted  to  flowers  and  vegetables,  the  writer  has 
found  that  these  coldframes  "pay"  better  than  any  other  space  under  glass. 
Coldframes  may  be  on  any  scale  desired,  from  the  three  or  four  sashes  of 
the  beginner  to  the  market  gardener's  hundreds.  The  writer  once  asked 
a  market  gardener  who  grew  lettuce  very  extensively  how  he  could  afford 
to  pay  such  heavy  rental.  He  repHed:  "You  see  those  frames.  Every 
eight  inches  square  of  their  space  has  six  five-cent  nickels  in  a  little  pile  in 
the  groimd.     I  rake  them  out  each  season.    You  can  figure  it  for  yourself. " 

The  labour  in  caring  for  coldframes  is  but  slight,  but  the  requisite  atten- 
tion they  must  have.  This  consists  almost  entirely  of  two  things — water  and 
ventilation.  They  must  have  air  on  pleasant  or  sunny  days,  and  they  must 
have  water  when  that  is  necessary.     Too  frequent  watering  is  very  injurious. 

For  extremely  cold  weather  protection  is  advisable.  Covers  made 
of  tongued-and-grooved  pine  boards,  one  for  each  sash,  are  the  most 
convenient  and  durable.  J\Iats  made  of  straw  are  w^armer,  but  these  get 
soaked  with  rain  and  then  freeze  into  immanageable  nuisances.  Straw 
mats  with  board  covers  are  the  best  of  all  devices. 

A  sandy  loam,  with  plenty  of  well-rotted  manure,  is  the  best  soil  for 
frames. 


194  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


III.   Advice   of   a   Market   Gardener 
By  Patrick  O'Mara 

A  NECESSARY  adjunct  to  the  flower  and  vegetable  garden  is  a  coldframe. 
In  it  the  early  plantings  of  cabbage,  cauliflower  and  lettuce  (raised  from 
seed  sown  in  the  fall)  are  kept  over  during  the  winter.  Hardy  annuals  and 
biennials,  such  as  pansies,  daisies,  violets,  chrysanthemums,  auriculas, 
cowslips,  forget-me-nots,  hollyhocks,  carnations,  etc.,  are  best  grown  from 
seed  sown  in  August  or  early  September,  tran'::planted  into  a  coldframe,  and 
again  transplanted  in  spring  to  a  permanent  situation. 

A  coldframe  is  easy  of  construction,  being  simply  a  box  of  the  desired 
length  on  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  covered  with  sashes  when  cold 
weather  sets  in.  If  possible,  the  frames  should  be  constructed  so  as  to  run 
northeast  to  southwest,  or  east  to  west  if  the  former  is  not  feasible.  Calling 
the  side  facing  northwest  or  north  the  back  of  the  frame,  the  board  forming 
the  back  should  be  ten  or  twelve  inches  high — the  width  of  a  hemlock  board ; 
the  front  boards  should  be  six  or  eight  inches  high.  This  will  give  a  slope 
toward  the  sun,  the  better  to  catch  its  rays,  and  will  also  quickly  shed  rain. 
The  frame  is  made  by  putting  posts  in  the  ground  and  nailing  the  boards 
to  them,  one  at  the  center  of  each  board  and  one  at  each  end.  The  posts  are 
generally  made  from  hemlock  joists  two  inches  by  three  inches,  and  should  be 
sunk  about  two  feet  in  the  ground,  first  giving  them  a  good  coat  of  tar. 
Where  the  boards  join,  each  can  be  nailed  to  one  post,  the  wide  surface  of 
the  posts  being  faced  to  the  boards,  the  posts  to  be  on  the  outside  of  the 
frames.  The  standard  length  of  the  sashes  is  six  feet,  so  that  the  boards 
should  be  five  feet  eight  inches  apart,  thus  allowing  the  sashes  to  project  two 
inches  over  the  boards,  an  inch  at  each  end,  for  convenience  in  giving 
ventilation  and  in  taking  them  off  and  putting  them  on. 

Various  devices  are  used  to  so  fasten  the  sashes  as  to  prevent  them 
from  being  blown  away  by  heavy  winds.  The  simplest  is  to  prepare  small 
wooden  wedges  about  six  inches  long,  which  are  driven  in  between  the  sashes 
and  so  bind  the  whole  frame  securely.  A  safe  way  is  to  put  a  screw-eye 
in  the  end  of  each  sash  and  a  hook  in  the  board  and  fasten  each  sash  in  that 
manner.  These  fastenings  should  be  used  on  the  north  side  of  the  frame,  if 
the  prevailing  winter  winds  come  from  that  quarter.     Another  method  is  to 


Coldframes  for  Wintering  Plants 


195 


stretch  a  stout  wire  the  length  of  the  frame  over  the  sashes  and  along  the 
center,  anchor  it  securely  at  each  end  to  stout  posts,  fasten  it  at  one  end 
to  a  half -inch  iron  rod  which  is  threaded  and  which  passes  through  the  post, 
an  iron  plate  being  on  the  outside  of  the  post.  Then,  with  a  key  screwed  on 
the  bolt,  the  wire  can  be  made  as  taut  as  desired.  Shelter  from  the  cold 
northwest  winter  winds  is  very  important.  The  market  gardeners  put  up 
a  six-foot  fence  behind  their  frames  as  a  windbreak.  The  south  side  of  a 
house,  barn,  or  row  of  evergreen  trees  can  be  taken  advantage  of  on  small 
places.     It  will    be   necessary,   too,    to   put  a  bank   of    barnyard   manure 


Azalea  shed  and  pits 

against  the  outside  of  the  frames,  both  sides  and  ends,  as  additional  pro- 
tection from  cold. 

The  soil  in  coldframes  should  be  well  manured  and  well  dug  to  get  the 
best  results.  It  is  intensive  culture,  and  the  soil  must  be  rich  and  mellow. 
Care  should  be  taken,  too,  to  see  that  it  is  well  drained,  and  the  frames 
guarded  against  any  outside  surface  flow  of  water.  Nothing  is  more 
harmful  than  a  surplus  of  water  in  coldframes  during  the  cold  winter 
and  early  spring. 

When  the   crop  is  out  of  the  frames  in  the  spring  or  early  summer,  it 


196  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

will  be  found  beneficial  to  plant  a  crop  of  potatoes  in  them  occasionally,  also 
to  seed  them  down  to  a  green  crop,  such  as  red  clover  or  millet.  These  can 
be  dug  in  later  in  the  season,  and  will  be  valuable  to  renovate  the  soil. 

The  uses  for  coldframes  are  many,  and  are  indicated  in  the  short  list  of 
plants  given  to  be  grown  in  them.  Before  violet  culture  reached  the  high 
state  in  which  it  is  now,  violets  were  very  largely  grown  in  coldframes  for  the 
New  York  market.  One  florist  in  Jersey  City,  who  had  an  exceptionally 
favourable  location,  a  sharp  southern  slope  protected  from  the  north,  made 
a  very  comfortable  living  from  about  five  hundred  sashes  entirely  devoted  to 
violets.  Greenhouse  culture  of  violets  has,  however,  practically  forced  the 
abandonment  of  coldframes  by  florists.  They  can  be  and  are  still  used  by 
amateurs  for  their  own  use,  and  possibly  to  market  the  flowers  if  a  surplus 
is  produced.  If  violets  are  to  be  grown  in  coldframes,  they  must  not  be 
allowed  to  freeze  hard  at  any  time.  Care  must  be  exercised,  therefore,  to 
cover  the  frames  during  cold  weather  at  night  with  straw  mats  or  the  new 
burlap  mats,  and  over  them  close  board  shutters  made  out  of  half -inch  pine 
boards,  and  the  size  of  the  sash.  Heavy  weights  should  be  put  on  these 
to  keep  them  from  blowing  away.  These  coverings  will  be  found  useful, 
but  not  indispensable,  for  plants  in  coldframes  which  are  simply  being 
carried  over  the  winter.  If  care  is  taken  to  properly  temper  the  plants 
in  the  early  part  of  the  winter,  no  covering  but  the  sashes  will  be  necessary. 
When  snow  covers  the  glass  it  should  be  removed  as  soon  as  possible,  pro- 
vided the  ground  in  the  frames  is  not  frozen  hard  and  the  plants  are 
consequently  growing.  If  it  is  frozen  hard,  the  snow  may  be  allowed  to 
remain  on  for  weeks. 

The  most  important  point  in  handling  coldframes  is  ventilation.  With  a 
frame  tightly  closed  and  the  sun  shining,  the  temperature  in  the  frame,  even 
in  the  coldest  weather,  will  rise  rapidly,  and  air  must  be  admitted.  The  usual 
way  is  to  have  small  blocks  of  wood  prepared  and  laid  on  the  sashes  ready  for 
use.  With  the  wind  blowing  briskly  from  the  north  and  the  thermometer 
showing  twenty  degrees  or  less,  give  ventilation  on  the  southern  side  of  the 
frame.  The  blocks  should  be  about  four  inches  high,  sawed  out  of  furring 
strips.  By  inserting  these  flat,  on  edge,  or  upright,  three  gradations  of  ven- 
tilation can  be  given,  as  desired.  Sometimes  it  will  be  found  desirable  tc 
ventilate  by  tilting  the  entire  sash  and  inserting  the  block  either  flat  or 
edgewise  at  the  middle  of  the  sash,  the  block  resting  on  the  adjoining  sash. 
With  a  strong  wind  blowing  along  the  frame,  this  method  is  desirable,  as 


Coldframes  for  Wintering  Plants  197 

the  sashes  can  be  tilted  so  that  the  angle  of  elevation  is  in  the  same  direction 
that  the  wind  is  blowing.  During  fine  days  in  winter,  when  the  sun  is  shining 
and  there  is  not  more  than  two  or  three  degrees  of  frost,  alternate  sashes 
may  be  removed.  When  this  is  done  several  days  in  succession,  be  sure 
that  the  sashes  thus  removed  and  placed  on  top  of  the  next  ones  are  alternated,, 
so  as  not  to  have  the  same  plants  covered  each  day  with  the  double  sash. 
During  the  fine  days  of  late  winter  and  early  spring  the  sashes  should  be 
removed  entirely,  piling  them  at  the  end  of  the  frame. 

Should  the  soil  become  dry  at  any  time,  so  as  to  impede  growth,  then 
water,  but  this  is  not  likely  to  happen  during  the  winter  months,  and  rarely 
even  in  the  spring. 

Many  of  these  details  may  seem  superfluous,  but  it  is  only  by  close 
attention  to  details  that  success  can  be  achieved. 


IV.    Inexpensive    Pits   for   the   South 
By    Laura    Jones 

We  who  live  in  the  southern  or  south  central  States  can  keep  our  pets 
through  the  winter  months  with  much  less  trouble  and  expense  than  our 
northern  neighbours.  Pits  are  inexpensive,  and  in  this  latitude  most  plants 
can  be  kept  in  them  without  any  artificial  heat.  In  my  own  I  gather  tea- 
rose  buds,  sweet  violets,  primroses,  geraniums,  callas,  carnations,  abutilons, 
heliotropes,  and  a  variety  of  greenhouse  flowers  at  all  months  of  the  winter, 
and  here  I  start  greenhouse  seeds  and  all  of  my  summer-flowering  bulbs. 

One  of  the  most  important  requirements  of  a  pit  is  perfect  drainage. 
An  imperfectly  drained  pit  will  give  the  florist  much  more  trouble  than 
pleasure,  for  during  heavy  rains  the  water  will  often  rise,  causing  too  much 
moisture  for  many  a  choice  plant.  If  drainage  pipe  is  used,  it  should  be 
placed  in  one  comer,  and  the  floor  should  slope  from  all  sides  to  the  pipe, 
so  there  will  be  no  small  pools  of  water  in  any  part  of  the  pit.  In  my  own, 
the  drainage  pipe  extends  for  about  six  feet  from  the  pit,  and  is  covered  to 
about  four  feet  with  earth  and  sod.  During  severely  cold  weather,  when 
the  air  cannot  be  permitted  to  enter  at  any  other  point,  this  serves  as  a 
ventilator,  for  the  air  is  thoroughly  warmed  by  the  time  it  reaches  the  pit. 
One  end  of  the  pipe  shouM  be  covered  with  finely  woven  wire  netting  or 
small  iron  grate,  to  prevent  the  entrance  of  rats  or  rabbits. 


198  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

One  wishes  a  pit  to  be  a  permanent  structure,  and  rock  and  brick 
are  therefore  much  used  for  the  wahs,  but  such  wahs  are  not  altogether 
satisfactory.  I  have  mine  wahed  with  planks  of  three-inch  thickness,  and, 
with  the  exception  of  one  top  plank,  the  lining  is  as  good  as  when  put  in,  a 
dozen   years  ago. 

For  the  benefit  of  those  who  intend  to  have  a  pit,  I  will  give  dimensions, 
so  that  some  idea  of  cost  can  be  formed.  Length,  twelve  feet;  breadth, 
eight  feet;  height  of  north  end,  seven  feet;  of  south  end,  four  and  one-half 
feet.  This  gives  a  slope  of  two  and  a  half  feet,  which  is  sufficient  to  shed 
water,  and  permits  the  sun's  rays  to  penetrate  without  obstruction.  Twenty- 
five  planks  were  used  for  the  walls,  and  nine  for  the  benches.  Back 
under  the  other  benches,  about  two  feet  from  the  floor,  I  had  two  long 
benches  placed  for  storing  away  the  boxes  of  summer-flowering  bulbs  and 
dormant  plants. 

The  lumber  used  consisted  of  oak  planks  about  fifteen  inches  wide  and 
three  thick,  with  four  strips  eight  by  two  inches  for  outside  finish.  A  pit  of 
this  size  will  hold  a  goodly  number  of  pots,  but,  as  it  is  necessary  to  economise 
space  in  the  early  spring,  I  have  small  shelves  placed  in  the  east  and  west 
corners,  about  one  foot  and  a  half  from  the  top,  for  bulb-  and  seed-boxes. 

The  cost  of  a  pit  is  small.  The  digging,  carpenter's  work,  and  banking 
and  lumber  would  have  to  be  counted  as  the  main  expense.  The  cost  of 
sash  would  be  trivial,  but  cheap  glass  is  quite  expensive  in  the  end.  In 
placing  benches,  put  them  low  enough  to  prevent  the  plants  from  touch- 
ing glass,  as  the  hot  sunshine  will  scorch  foliage.  In  banking  earth 
around  the  pit,  it  must  be  securely  packed  against  the  plank,  so  there  will 
be  no  airholes  for  frost  to  enter. 


V.    Violets    in   Coldframes 

By  Sarah   Hopkins 

One  is  often  told  that  it  is  not  practical  to  raise  violets  in  New  England 
in  coldframes,  but  from  experience  I  can  affirm  the  contrary.  I  bought 
six  ready-made  coldframes,  and  they  are  so  well  made  and  of  such  excellent 
material  that  they  can  withstand  the  coldest  of  weather.  It  is  best  to  be 
on  the  safe  side,  however,  and  in  severe  weather  straw  matting  should  be 
placed  on  the  glass,  and  then  boards.     The  mats  can  be  made  at  home  with 


Coldframes  for  Wintering  Plants 


199 


burlap  and  of  straw  made  into  mattresses,  or  they  may  be  bought  for  one 
dollar  and  a  half  apiece. 

My  violets  are  a  source  of  great  pleasure  to  me.  They  are  a  delightful 
family,  and  on  cold  days,  when  all  the  ground  around  is  frozen,  they  alone 
are  warm  and  fragrant.  As  I  spent  two  winters  in  trymg  to  get  my  frames 
"mounted,"  so  to  speak,  it  may  be  of  some  help  to  others  to  hear  of  my 
trials.  First,  ground-moles  attacked  them  and  plowed  and  replowed  the 
roots  until  the  violets  were  almost  dead.     Had  I  but  known  it,  "rough  on 


ildirames  of  brick  and 


rats"  kills  them.  1  always  sunk  the  frames,  which  pro\'ed  a  poor  plan 
in  my  case. 

Select  a  high  and  dry  place  near  a  fence  or  hedge  of  evergreen  trees  for 
shelter  from  the  north.  It  may  even  pay  to  build  a  fence  along  the  north 
side.  The  frames  must  have  as  much  sun  as  possible.  The  soil  should 
be  banked  up  around  the  frames  to  keep  out  cold  and  dampness. 

In  my  six  frames  are  planted  one  hundred  and  eight  Lady  Hume  Camp- 
bell violets.     Every  two  weeks  or  so  I  pick  at  least  two  hundred  blossoms, 


200  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

and  they  are  of  an  unexcelled  fragrance  and  colour.  Next  year  I  intend 
to  double  the  number,  as  I  believe  my  coldframes  produce  finer  flowers  than 
any  I  have  seen  grown  in  a  greenhouse. 

There  are  very  few  days  when  it  is  too  cold  to  pick  violets  in  the  middle 
of  the  day.  Take  a  small  covered  basket,  lined  with  something;  open  the 
frames  a  little  at  a  time,  and  drop  the  blossoms  into  the  basket.  Of  course, 
there  are  some  days  when  the  matting  cannot  be  taken  off,  but  there  are 
not  many  of  them.  Each  day  the  frames  must  be  aired,  if  for  only  ten 
minutes  at  a  time.  It  is  best  to  have  a  small  thermometer  mside;  and 
seventy-five  degrees  is  the  highest  temperature  that  should  be  allowed. 

VI.     Pansies,  Forget-me-nots,  and  Wallflowers 
By  Thomas  Murray 

From  a  coldframe  may  be  had  violets,  wallflow^ers,  forget-me-nots 
and  pansies  in  March,  "hepaticas"  and  trailing  arbutus  in  April,  together 
with  wood-violets,  wood-anemones,  and  the  many  other  wild  flowers,  thus 
starting  the  flower  season  two  months  ahead.  Again  in  October  and 
November,  when  everything  outside  has  been  nipped  by  early  frosts,  the 
coldframe  preserves  a  few  choice  heliotropes,  begonias,  Marguerite 
carnations,  nasturtiums  grown  in  pots,  scarlet  sages;  and  the  queen  of  the 
autumn,  the  chrysanthemum,  is  seen  in  all  her  glory. 

Violets  for  growing  in  coldframes  are  propagated,  like  strawberries, 
by  runners.  Great  numbers  of  these  are  formed  in  April  just  as  the  flowering 
season  closes.  Take  as  many  as  you  need  to  fill  the  frames  the  following 
year — say  thirty-five  to  forty-five  for  a  six-  by  three-foot  sash,  remove  the 
old  plants,  and  put  the  young  ones  in  their  places.  Or,  should  the  space 
be  required  for  other  th'ngs,  place  the  young  plants  three  inches  apart  in 
shallow  boxes  or  in  small  pots  until  the  beginning  of  May,  when  they  should 
be  planted  in  the  open  ground,  kept  watered  and  cultivated  in  summer,  and 
transplanted  into  the  frame,  seven  inches  apart,  by  the  middle  of  August. 
Flowers  may  be  p'cked  from  early  October  until  late  November.  In  sections 
where  the  thermometer  registers  zero  it  will  be  necessary  to  keep  the  frames 
comfortably  covered.     In  warm  sectons  flowers  may  be  picked  all  winter. 

When  plants  are  frozen,  they  should  be  left  so,  but  during  long  warm 
spells  air  must  be  given  or  they  will  "damp  off,"  or  rot.     The  sunshine  in 


Coldframes  for  Wintering  Plants  201 

February  will  hr'.ng  the  flowers  out  again,  and  they  will  continue  to 
bloom  until  April.  In  summer  all  plants  should  be  frequently  sprayed 
to  keep  them  free  from  the  red  spider  and  green  fly,  otherwise  they  will 
give  trouble  in  winter. 

The  best  single  blue  varieties  are  California  and  Princess  of  Wales ;  the 
latter  has  the  larger  flower  and  longer  stem.  Among  double  blues,  Marie 
Louise  and  Farquhar  dark  are  favourites,  but  Lady  Hume  Campbell  or 
light  Farquhar  is  the  best.  This  variety  has  a  more  rugged  constitution, 
and  blooms  later. 

Forget-me-nots  are  raised  to  perfection  in  coldframes.  Sow  the  seed 
in  July  in  a  sheltered  spot  in  the  open  ground.  In  four  weeks,  or  when 
plants  are  large  enough  to  handle,  transplant  three  inches  apart ;  water  and 
grow  along  till  late  m  September,  then  plant  seven  inches  apart  in 
frames,  and  keep  them  growing  till  frosts  set  in.  A  covering  of  three  inches 
of  dry  leaves  or  straw  should  then  be  put  over  them.  The  frost  will  not 
hurt  them,  but  the  sun  shining  on  them  when  frozen  burns  the  leaves.  When 
the  weather  gets  warm  in  spring,  remove  the  leaf  mulch.  The  plants 
bloom  during  April  and  May. 

With  the  same  general  treatment,  but  leaving  them  in  the  open,  the 
plants  start  to  flower  toward  the  end  of  May,  and  bloom  continuously 
till  July.  The  seed  then  falls,  in  due  time  germinates,  and  flowers  appear 
next  season.  Old  plants  will  bloom  several  years,  but  young  plants  each 
season  give  best  results. 

Wallflowers  in  coldframes  are  very  satisfactory.  Sow  the  seed  in 
April  or  May  in  the  open  ground  or  in  "flats."  When  the  seedlings  are 
large  enough  to  handle,  transplant  three  inches  apart.  They  w411  crowd 
each  other  in  four  weeks,  when  they  may  again  be  transplanted,  giving 
each  plant  a  square  foot.  By  the  first  of  October  they  will  be  twelve  inches 
high,  and  bushy,  and  may  be  planted  singly  into  six-  or  seven-inch  pots,  or 
several  in  boxes,  and  removed  to  the  frame,  where  they  should  be  covered 
to  prevent  alternate  freezing  and  thawing.  They  do  not  like  high  temperature, 
so  the  sash  should  be  removed  on  all  clear  days,  especially  in  February  and 
March,  as  they  start  growing  then.  They  flower  in  April.  We  have  heard 
that  around  New  Rochelle,  N.  Y.,  some  plants  have  been  known  to  flower 
after  being  left  outside  all  winter,  but  we  have  ne»^ei  seen  them. 

Mignonette  is  always  welcome  and  a  general  favourite  in  the  garden 
and    yard,    but    it    is    seldom    seen    in    the   window  garden    or  coldframes, 


202  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

although  it  can  be  seen  at  its  best  when  grown  in  either  position  during 
the  fall  and  winter. 

Sow  the  seed  of  the  "Machet"  or  "Allen's  Defiance"  strains  about 
August  15th,  in  small  pots,  putting  four  or  five  seeds  in  each.  Water, 
and  cover  them  with  a  sheet  of  newspaper.  If  the  paper  is  kept  moist 
the  soil  will  not  require  watering  again  before  the  little  plants  come  up. 
If  more  than  two  seedlings  grow  in  each  pot,  they  should  be  pulled  out. 
For  pot  culture,  as  the  pot  is  filled  with  roots  more  room  should  be  given, 
until  each  has  been  potted  into  a  six-inch  pot.  The  stalks  should  be  supported. 
After  the  center  stalk  flowers  and  is  cut  away,  many  side  shoots  will  push 
out,  and  each  will  have  a  spike  of  flowers.  Mignonettes  may  be  kept  in 
bloom  all  winter.  When  plants  are  to  be  grown  in  frames,  they  may  be 
planted  there  as  soon  as  the  small  pots  first  fill  with  roots.  By  planting 
several  in  a  large  pot  a  large  specimen  can  be  grown  which  attains  a  height 
of  two  feet  and  a  diameter  of  the  same. 

Pansies  are  raised  from  seed  sown  each  season.  It  is  not  necessary 
that  they  should  be  bought  each  year,  as  home-saved  seed  is  equal  to  any 
from  the  store,  always  providing  a  good  strain  has  been  secured  at  the  start, 
as  Henderson's  Mammoth  Butterfly,  Giant  Trimardeau,  or  German  mixed. 
They  do  best  in  frames,  or  "flats."  They  take  kindly  to  transplanting,  and 
can  be  moved  when  in  full  bloom.  A  good  watering  always  brightens  them 
up  after  moving.  For  early  spring  use  in  the  window  box,  or  for  cut  flowers 
in  the  coldframe,  or  for  planting  in  beds,  sow  the  seed  the  middle  of  August. 
When  large  enough  to  handle,  about  the  time  the  third  leaf  shows,  trans- 
plant singly  three  inches  apart  in  shallow  boxes.  Attend  to  watering  until 
they  freeze,  then  cover  with  dry  leaves  and  leave  till  spring  starts  them  into 
growth  again.  They  will  stand  a  sharp  frost.  Ten  degrees  will  not  materi- 
ally afTect  them,  so  they  may  be  planted  out  in  beds  or  window  boxes  the 
first  week  in  April.  For  summer  and  fall  flowering,  sow  seed  in  April,  grow 
along,  and  plant  in  a  shady  bed  eight  inches  apart. 


CHAPTER  XIII.     HOTBEDS  FOR  EARLY  FLOWERS 

I.     How  TO  Manage  Hotbeds 

By   Patrick  O'Mara 


pTBEDS  are  most  excellent  things  for  those  who  appreciate 
early  vegetables.  They  are  also  useful  for  flowers,  especially 
tender  annuals,  and  enable  the  horticulturist,  whether 
amateur  or  commercial,  to  hasten  the  growth  of  asters, 
pansies,  and  the  like.  In  fact,  a  hotbed  is  a  cheap  and 
often  the  only  available  substitute  for  a  greenhouse. 

The  size  of  a  hotbed  is  determined  by  the  requirements  of  the  place;  a 
convenient  size  is  nine  feet  long,  taking  three  sashes.  An  excavation  three 
feet  deep  will  be  necessary.  This  should  be  boarded  up  completely  from  the 
bottom,  the  back  rising  two  feet  above  the  surface,  the  front  eighteen  inches. 
Cross-pieces  four  inches  broad  and  an  inch  thick  are  let  into  the  boards  a 
sufficient  depth  to  allow  the  edge  of  the  boards  to  be  even  with  the  under 
surface  of  the  sash  when  it  is  put  on.  A  strip  an  inch  wide  and  as  thick 
as  the  sash,  nailed  along  this,  provides  a  tight  frame  for  each  sash, 
and  renders  ventilating  easy. 

Fresh  horse  manure  is  the  material  used  to  furnish  the  heat.  A  quantity 
sufficient  for  the  purpose  should  be  procured  at  one  time.  Small  quantities 
procured  at  intervals  will  not  suffice.  After  a  few  days  the  pile  will  begin 
to  ferment,  which  fact  is  made  evident  by  escaping  steam.  The  pile  should 
then  be  thoroughly  forked  over  and  formed  into  a  new  pile.  In  two  or  three 
days  fermentation  will  again  occur,  and  then  the  material  should  be  put  in 
the  hotbed,  treading  it  down  evenly  and  firmly  to  a  uniform  depth  of  two 
and  a  half  feet.  It  is  better  to  mix  decayed  leaves  in  equal  quantities  with 
the  manure,  but  this  is  not  essential.  If  the  leaves  are  used  the  work  is 
hastened  somewhat,  as  fermentation  is  not  so  active.  The  bed  being  made, 
put  the  sashes  on  the  frame.  When  a  thermometer,  plunged  into  the 
manure,  shows  90  degrees  F.,  put  in  soil  to  the  depth  of  five  or  six  inches 
and  firm  it  down.  This  should  be  a  rich,  well-prepared  compost,  one- third 
well-rotted  barnyard  manure  and  two- thirds  fibrous  loam. 

203 


204 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


Great  care  should  be  taken  in  watering.  If  too  wet,  the  plants 
"damp  off."  or  get  weak  and  spindling;  if  too  dry,  they  are  likely  to  be  lost 
altogether.      Ventilation  is  a  most  important  point;  an  hour's  neglect  may 


A  market  i;ardene 


destroy  the  crop  of  seedlings.  When  the  sun  is  shining,  the  temperature 
may  be  allowed  to  rise  to  70  or  80  degrees;  at  other  times,  from  55  to  60 
degrees  is  a  proper  temperature. 

Covering  with  mats  and  shutters  is  highly  essential.  If  a  cold  night 
is  coming,  close  up  the  frame  early  to  store  the  heat,  and  put  the  covering 
on  about  an  hour  before  sunset.  Take  it  off  in  the  morning  from  an  hour  to 
two  hours  after  sunrise  during  cold  weather.  The  sides  and  ends  above- 
ground  should  be  banked  up  with  earth  and  six  inches  of  manure  to  keep 
out  cold  in  severe  weather. 

Of  course,  the  young  seedlings  must  be  transplanted  in  the  hotbed,  and 
the  cultivator  must  provide  room  enough  for  that  purpose.  A  sash  will 
cover  fifty  lettuce  plants  transplanted  for  forcing;  it  will  cover  500  trans- 
planted from  the  seed-bed.  The  latter  number  may  be  taken  as  a  fair  average 
for  the  general  run  of  plants  which  a  sash  will  cover  after  transplanting  is 
accomplished.  As  sown  in  the  seed-bed,  before  thinning  or  transplanting, 
a  sash  will  cover  about  5,000  seedlings.  A  sash  will  cover  500  radishes 
thinned  out  to  grow  to  maturity. 

In  transplanting,  be  careful  to  do  the  work  quickly  and  thoroughly, 
firming  the  plant  well  with  the  planting-stick.  Do  not  allow  the  plants  to  be 
out  of  the  ground  a  minute  longer  than  is  necessary.     Water  them  well 


Hotbeds  for  Early  Flowers 


205 


after  transplanting,  and  shade  them  with  dampened  sheets  of  paper  for  a  few 
days  until  they  have  taken  root.  Tepid  water,  say  90  degrees  F.,  can  be 
used  with  benefit  in  watering  plants  in  hotbeds,  for  the  reason  that  the  heat 
in  the  bed  must  be  conserved.  When  the  season's  work  is  done,  take  out 
the  manure  and  soil,  which  now  has  little  value  except,  perhaps,  to  lighten 
heavier  soils  used  for  potting. 

II.     How  TO  Make  a  Hotbed 
By  W.  C.   Egan 

Choose  a  sunny  position  protected  from  the  prevailing  spring  winds 
by  a  fence,  building,  or  hedge,  where  the  surface  drainage  will  be  away  from 
the  site  of  the  hotbed.     Have  the  lower  side  face  south,  if  possible. 

For  a  permanent  frame,  excavate  from  two  to  two  and  a  half  feet  deep, 
and  tile-drain  the  bottom.  For  sides  use  a  brick  or  cement  wall,  one  or  more 
feet  thick,  or  plank  from  two  to  three  inches  thick.  A  hollow  wall  in  either  case 
will  retain  the  heat  longer;  and  if  it  is  floored  with  wood,  so  much  the  better. 


View  in  a  greenhouse.     Persons  who  raise  quantities  of  melons  often   plant  all  their  seeds   in   splint  forms  or  baskets 
made  for  the  purpose,  but  the  same  kind  of  boxes  may  be  used  in  a  hotbed 


Remember  that  a  single  sash  is  three  feet  wide  and  three  long,  slanting 
lengthwise,  so  that  the  inside  measurements  must  be  multiples  of  these 
figures,  first  allowing  a  three-inch  lap  at  all  the  four  sides  on  which  the  sash 


2o6  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

will  rest.  The  portion  aboveground  should  be  one  foot  in  front  and  eighteen 
inches  at  the  back,  with  the  sides  tapering. 

If  cement  or  brick  is  used,  a  box  frame  of  two-inch  plank  should  be  bolted 
on  (bolts  set  in  the  cement),  and  strong  cross-bars  run  across  where  the  sash 
meet.  An  inch  strip  may  be  nailed  on  these  bars  to  divide  the  sash.  If  this 
is  done,  the  width  the  strips  occupy  should  be  figured  in  the  measurements. 
Cypress  is  the  most  lasting  wood  to  use. 

Mats  made  of  burlaps,  straw,  or  fiber,  obtainable  at  the  stores,  are 
advisable  to  use  during  cold  nights.  Light  wooden  shutters  further  retain 
the  heat  and  keep  the  mats  dry  during  stormy  weather.  Banking  up 
against  the  frame  with  coal-ashes  or  loam  is  commendable. 

Temporary  hotbeds  are  made  by  first  preparing  the  manure  as  described 
elsewhere  and  spreading  it  out  on  the  ground  two  or  more  feet  deep  and  fully 
two  feet  wider  all  around  than  the  frame  to  be  used.  On  this  set  a  frame 
one  foot  high  in  front  and  eighteen  inches  at  the  back  and  bank  manure 
around  it.  Or  have  another  frame  one  foot  wider  all  around,  which  place 
outside,  and  fill  the  space  between  with  manure. 

The  preparation  of  manure  for  a  hotbed  is  a  matter  of  great  practical 
importance.  The  result  aimed  at  is  a  slow,  moist,  enduring  heat.  This 
condition  is  secured  only  by  the  proper  manipulation  of  the  manure  before 
it  is  placed  in  the  frame.  Often  fresh  manure  that  comes  from  a  boxed 
structure  is  quite  hot  when  received,  and  it  is  sometimes  used  at  once,  but 
the  result  is  a  quick,  violent  heat,  rankly  charged  with  ammonia,  that  soon 
burns  itself  out,  and  ceases  to  act  while  the  weather  is  still  cold. 

Fresh  horse  manure  is  the  best  possible  kind  to  use,  and  should  have  a 
good  deal  of  rough,  stable-soaked  straw  or  litter  in  it.  If  this  is  lacking, 
litter  or  forest  leaves  may  be  added. 

When  it  is  received,  shake  it  up  most  thoroughly,  if  it  is  naturally  moist, 
and  place  it  in  a  pile  to  heat.  Protecting  from  rain  or  snow  by  covering 
with  boards  or  piling  under  cover  is  beneficial,  but  not  necessary.  If  the 
manure  is  dry  and  not  inclined  to  heat,  moisten  it  with  hot  water,  which  will 
soon  start  it. 

Let  it  stand  three  or  four  days,  then  turn  again,  placing  what  was  outside 
in  the  interior,  thoroughly  shaking  each  forkful,  and  pile  up  again.  Let  it 
remain  a  few  days  until  thoroughly  heated  through,  when  it  is  ready  to  be 
placed  in  the  frame. 

Here  it  should  be  distributed  evenly,  and  eventually  be  packed  down 


Hotbeds  for  Early  Flowers 


207 


firmly,  especially  at  the  sides  and  corners.  If  the  gardener  is  not  rushed  for 
time,  it  is  well  to  let  the  manure  lie  loose  for  a  few  days,  during  which 
time  it  will  heat  again.  Put  on  the  sash,  but  ventilate  day  and  night  until 
the  steam  passes  off.  During  this  process  most  of  the  ammonia  escapes, 
which  is  desirable  for  this  purpose,  as  the  manure  is  useful  for  its  heat  alone, 
and  not  for  plant  food.  When  a  thermometer,  sunk  in  the  manure  and  allowed 
to  remain  a  few  minutes,  shows  a  temperature  of  less  than  100  degrees,  the 


If  one  is  to  have  a  hotbed  every  year,  it  is  usually  better  to  use  heavier  lumber,  and  to  mortise  the  corners  together 


bed  is  ready  for  use.  I  like  to  use  two  cubic  yards  of  fresh  manure  to  each 
sash  of  three  by  six. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  directly  in  the  soil  covering  the  manure,  in  which 
case  the  soil  should  be  about  six  inches  deep;  or,  if  sown  in  shallow 
boxes,  which  are  placed  directly  on  the  soil,  the  earth  covering  may  be 
only  three  inches  deep. 

When  the  young  plants  are  up,  shade  a  little  wn'th  open  lath  frames, 
or  strew  litter  lightly  over  the  glass  on  hot,  sunny  days,  and  ventilate  by 
raising  the  leeward  side  of  the  sash. 


2o8  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

During  the  early  summer,  after  the  plants  have  been  removed,  lettuce 
or  radishes  may  be  grown  in  the  hotbed.  Where  six  inches  of  soil  has 
been  used,  cannas  will  grow  to  perfection;  they  seem  to  dehght  in  the 
half -spent  manure,  either  in  the  beds  or  wlien  removed  to  their  outside 
plantings  in  June. 

When  fall  comes,  remove  the  soil  and  manure  and  you  have  an 
admirable  pit  in  which  to  bloom  chrysanthemums ;  or  partially  fill  it  with 
sifted  coal-ashes  and  in  this  bury  the  pots  containing  bulbous  plants, 
such  as  Easter  liHes,  tulips,  hyacinths,  etc.,  which  require  darkness  and 
freedom  from  frost  in  order  that  they  may  develop  their  roots  before 
throwing  up  their  tops.  These  may  be  brought  into  heat  as  required, 
and  forced. 

It  is  well  to  cover  the  frame  with  sash  and  shutters  during  the  winter 
in  order  to  keep  the  frost  from  the  interior. 


CHAPTER  XIV.     THE  PLEASURES  OF  A  SMALL  GREENHOUSE 

L     The  Greenhouse  in  the  Snow 

By  L.   H.   Bailey 

T  IS  in  the  dead  of  winter  that  the  greenhouse  is  at  its  best, 
for  then  is  the  contrast  of  life  and  death  the  greatest.  Just 
beyond  the  Hving  tender  leaf— separated  only  by  the  slender 
film  of  the  pane — is  the  whiteness  and  silence  of  the 
midwinter.  You  stand  under  .the  arching  roof  and  look  away 
into  the  bare,  blue  depths  where  only  stars  hang  their  cold,  faint  lights.  The 
bald  outlines  of  an  overhanging  tree  are  projected  against  the  sky  with  the 
sharpness  of  the  figures  of  cut  glass.  Branches  creak  and  snap  as  they 
move  stiffly  in  the  wind.  White  drifts  show  against  the  panes.  Icicles 
glisten  from  the  gutters.  Bits  of  ice  are  hurled  from  trees  and  cornice,  and 
they  crinkle  and  tinkle  over  the  frozen  snow.  In  the  short,  sharp  days  the 
fences  protrude  from  a  waste  of  drift  and  riffle,  and  the  dead  fretwork  of 
weed-stems  suggests  a  long-lost  summer.  There,  a  finger's-breadth  away, 
the  temperature  is  far  below  zero ;  here  is  the  warmth  and  snugness  of  a 
nook  of  summer. 

This  is  the  transcendent  merit  of  a  greenhouse — the  sense  of  mastery 
over  the  forces  of  nature.  It  is  an  oasis  in  one's  life  as  well  as  in  the 
winter.     You  have  dominion. 

But  this  dominion  does  not  stop  with  the  mere  satisfaction  of  a  conscious- 
ness of  power.  These  tender  things,  with  all  their  living  processes  in  root, 
and  stem,  and  leaf,  are  dependent  wholly  on  you  for  their  very  existence. 
One  minute  of  carelessness  or  neglect  and  all  their  loveliness  collapses  in 
the  blackness  of  death.  How  often  have  we  seen  the  farmer  pay  a  visit  to 
the  stable  at  bedtime  to  see  that  the  animals  are  snug  and  warm  for  the 
night,  stroking  each  confiding  face  as  it  raised  at  his  approach  !  And  how 
often  have  we  seen  the  same  affectionate  care  of  the  gardener,  who  stroked 
his  plants  and  tenderly  turned  and  shifted  the  pots,  when  the  night  wind 
hurled  the  frost  against  the  panes  !  It  is  worth  the  while  to  have  a  place 
for  the  affection  of  things  that  are  not  human. 

209 


2IO 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


Did  my  reader  ever  care  for  a  greenhouse  in  a  northern  winter?  Has 
he  smelled  the  warm,  moist  earth  when  the  windows  are  covered  with  frost? 
Has  he  watched  the  tiny  sprout  grow  and  unfold  into  leaf  and  flower  ?  Has 
he  thrust  a  fragment  of  the  luxuriance  of  August  into  the  very  teeth  of  winter  ? 
Then  he  knows  the  joy  of  a  conquest  that  makes  a  man  stronger  and  tenderer. 


Here  is  the  warmth  and  snugness  of  a  nook  of  summer 


Greenhouses  are  of  many  kinds.  There  is  one  kind  of  the  commercial 
plantsman,  and  another  of  the  man  of  means  whose  conservatory  is  essential 
to  the  architectural  completeness  of  his  mansion.  Of  these  we  need  not 
speak  here,  for  their  necessity  is  long  ago  established.  But  for  another 
kind  we  wish  to  plead — for  the  quiet,  unobtrusive  greenhouse  as  an  adjunct 
to  a  modest  home. 

The  object  of  this  simple  winter  garden  need  not  be  the  mere  growing 
of  flowers,  although  these  may  be  had  without  trouble.  It  is  worth  the  while 
to  grow  a  plant  just  because  it  is  a  plant  and  because  we  are  human  beings. 


The  Pleasures  of  a  Small  Greenhouse  213 

The  best  plant  is  the  one  that  has  the  deepest  significance  to  you,  even 
though  it  never  make  a  flower.  I  know  a  man  who  has  hmidreds  of  plants 
m  expensive  greenhouses,  and  the  best  plant  of  all  is  a  little  white  clover 
that  closes  its  leaves  by  night  and  opens  them  by  day. 

Against  the  background  of  winter  every  green  and  growmg  plant  is 


A  snug  little  greenhouse  where  green  things  grow  and  flowers  bloom  in  the  very  teeth  of  a  northern  winter 

emphatic  Against  the  luxuriant  background  of  summer  a  plant  twice 
as  good  may  be  overlooked  and  lost.  The  simplest  and  easiest  things  are 
best,  for  it  is  not  well  to  make  the  uncommon  things  too  common.  A  dainty 
rarity  is  all  the  better  because  it  is  seen  in  contrast  w'th  the  homespun  of 
the  geranium  and  begonia ;  and  the  common  things  perpetuate  the  con- 
tinuities and  purposiveness  of  our  lives. 

Like  all  effort  that  is  worth  the  while,  the  labour  of  growing  plants 
under  glass  requires  watchful  care.  This  care  is  its  own  reward.  Many 
plants,  however,  are  easy  to  grow,  and  with  these  the  novice  should  begin; 


214 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


and  with  them,  also,  the  very  busy 

man  should  be  content.     All  of  us 

can  grow  bulbs.     We   can   lift    the 

roots  of  petunias  and  alyssum  from 

the   garden  when  the  frost  comes. 

We  can  start  the  seeds  of  many  annuals  in 

late     summer.      We    can    make    cuttings    of 

begonias  and  coleus  and  a  score  of  common 

things.       Here    and    there   we    can    pick    up 

something  new.     Gradually  we   add   to    our 

store ;    and    in   three  years'  time  our  winter 

garden,    small  or  large,    becomes     a     unique 

collection  of    old-time    friends    and    of    new- 

tnne  rarities. 


II.     The  Fun  of  Having  a  Greenhouse 


By  Ai 


G.     MiNSHALL 


It  is  pleasant  to  grow  one' 
carnations 


.4  physician  who  takes  time  for  a  greenhouse  gives  some 
use  Jul  warnings 

To  ANY  lover  of  the  garden  the  frost  brings 
a  feeling  that  the  world  in  which  he  lives  has  lost 
half  its  beauty  for  him,  and  he  anxiously  awaits 
the  time  when  the  leaves  once  more  begin  to 
show  their  loveliness  of  green  in  the  spring.  If, 
however,  he  is  the  lucky  possessor  of  "a  small  bit 
of  glass,"  he  has  discounted  the  effect  of  the  shock, 
and  can  continue  to  worship  his  favourite  goddess 
in  a  small  private  shrine  which  is  always  con- 
veniently at  hand,  and  whose  selected  treasures 
seem  much  nearer  and  dearer  than  the  lavish 
plenties  of  the  summer  garden.  In  this  "winter 
garden"  he  can  have  a  constant  change  of  scene 
by  shifting  the  various  parts,  and  by  bringing  in 
the  sleeping  roots  and  bulbs  to  brighten  the  field 
whenever    variety     may    be    desired;    and     if    he 


The  Pleasures  of  a  Small  Greenhouse  217 

has  been  properly  far-sighted  there  will  be  a  "continuous  performance," 
however  limited  the  stage  may  be,  until  the  returning  heat  of  the  summer 
renews  the  necessity  of  his  attention  being  directed  outside  again. 

To  descend  to  more  personal  and  practical  details,  my  experience  is 
that  the  man  who  has  to  run  his  own  little  greenhouse,  and  who  has 
any  sort  of  outside  garden,  would  better  not  try  to  keep  both  going  at 
full  steam  at  the  same  time,  unless  he  has  an  abundance  of  leisure  time 
at  his  disposal.  Somehow,  too,  there  is  not  the  attraction  about  the 
indoor  growing  of  plants  when  everything  is  flourishing  m  the  less- 
confined  and  healthier  surroundings  of  the  garden  bed.  Give  your  time 
to  the  greenhouse  m  the  winter  half,  and  to  the  outdoor  life  for  the 
remainder  of  the  year. 

However,  when  one's  "glass"  is  part  of  the  house,  and  would  look  very 
forlorn  if  empty,  a  fair  showing  can  be  made  with  a  few  begonias,  amaryllis, 
and  foliage  plants  which  do  not  love  the  exposure  of  the  open,  and  which  with 
sufficient  shading  and  sprinkling  will  not  suffer  from  the  heat,  as  so  many 
other  greenhouse  pets  do.  Some  people  use  fancy-leaved  caladiums  to  make 
a  summer  display  indoors  at  a  small  cost  in  time  and  trouble.  The  umbrella 
plant  {Cy perns  alternifolins)  is  much  used  for  this  purpose.  If  there  is  a 
blank  wall  to  be  covered,  Ficiis  pwmila  will  be  found  excellent.  It  looks 
well  both  summer  and  winter,  and  requires  little  care. 

My  own  little  oasis  opens  directly  out  of  the  dining-room,  and  is  heated 
by  steam  from  the  common  furnace.  I  have  deduced  a  few  simple  axioms 
for  its  successful  operation. 

Don't  let  green  fly,  mealy-bug,  or  scale  go  too  long;  smoke  or  spray 
when  at  all  plentiful. 

Don't  have  the  place  too  hot;  give  plenty  of  air  on  every  possible 
occasion. 

Don't  try  to  grow  rare  novelties ;  stick  to  robust,  standard  things  that 
will  not  require  coddling. 

Don't  try  to  grow  palms  and  pansies  under  the  same  conditions;  one 
or  the  other,  if  not  both,  will  prove  a  failure.  The  things  that  do  best  with 
VTiQ  are  those  that  every  florist  sells  as  "house  plants,"  and  which  are  "the 
survival  of  the  fittest." 

Lastly,  retire  to  your  greenhouse  when  you  have  an  attack  of  "the 
blues";  it  will  be  the  better  for  every  one  concerned.  There  is  nothing 
like  a  greenhouse  to  keep  one  cheerful. 


2l8 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


III.     Grow  the  Easy  Things 
By  J.  A.   Ellis 


Advice  of  a  Canadian  amateur  ivJio  on'iis  a  fiftecn-by-twcnty  greenhouse  costing  one 

hundred  dollars 

I  HAVE  a  small  garden  in  which  I  grow  many  flowers  and  vegetables. 
Some     years     ago    I    decided    to    build   a    little    greenhouse    in    which    I 

could  raise  my  own 
plants  in  the  spring 
for  the  garden,  and 
which  would  be  a 
"thing  of  beauty  and 
a  joy  forever"  during 
the  remainder  of  the 
year.  Accordingly,  I 
constructed  a  lean-to, 
about  twenty  feet  by 
fifteen.  It  cost  me 
about  one  hundred 
dollars. 

At  first  I  thought 
I  would  run  it  all  the 
year  round.  Not 
having  a  furnace  in 
my  house,  I  heated  it 
by  means  of  hard 
wood  burned  m  a  large 
box-stove,  and  found 
this  did  very  well  so 
long  as  the  fire  was 
properly  looked  after. 
This,  I  knew,  would 
entail  my  getting  up 
in  the  middle  of  the  night,  w^hen  the  weather  was  zero  or  thereabouts,  to 
renew  the  fire,  but  I   had   no  fear  about  my  not  doing  this.     However,  I 


Chrysanthemums  on  a  side  bench 


Easter-time — the  height  of  the  greenhouse  season 


The  Pleasures  of  a  Small  Greenhouse  221 

omitted  to  get  up  on  two  or  three  occasions,  and,  of  course,  those  were  the 
nights  when  the  thermometer  dropped  out  of  sight.  I  found  nearly  ail 
my  plants  frozen,  and  I  came  to  the  conclusion  that  this  would  not  do. 
Now  I  keep  the  greenhouse  going  until  very  cold  weather  comes,  when  I 
remove  the  plants  into  the  house,  and  in  early  spring  I  take  them  back 
again  to  the  greenhouse. 

When  stocking  the  greenhouse  I  had  visions  of  some  of  the  fine  plants 
which  we  see  pictured  in  the  catalogues,  and  I  went  in  for  a  most  miscellaneous 
assortment,  including  chrysanthemums,  roses,  carnations,  orchids,  palms, 
ferns,  etc.  I  soon  found,  by  bitter  experience,  that  to  grow  all  these  plants 
successfully  different  temperatures  were  required.  I  succeeded  in  killing 
ofT  a  good  deal  of  my  first  stock  by  trying  one  temperature  after  another. 
Finally  I  made  up  my  mind  that  I  would  have  to  discard  those  plants  which 
required  a  high  temperature. 

One  year  I  grew  nearly  all  chrysanthemums  and  did  very  well  with  them, 
but  gave  them  up,  as  I  found  that  they  demanded  more  time  and  attention 
than  a  busy  amateur  could  give. 

I  have  now  got  down  to  the  commoner  plants,  such  as  fuchsias,  begonias, 
geraniums,  abutilons,  primulas,  cyclamens,  and  a  few  palms.  I  find  that 
these  all  thrive  pretty  well  in  the  same  temperature,  and  there  is  nearly 
always  something  in  bloom.  Such  plants  as  these,  too,  are  more  easily 
placed  to  advantage  around  the  house  in  winter. 

On  the  whole,  I  would  not  like  to  give  up  my  greenhouse.  By  its  aid  I 
am  enabled  to  raise  flower  and  vegetable  plants  for  my  garden  in  the  spring. 
I  keep  it  fairly  attractive  in  the  summer  and  fall,  and  in  the  winter  I  can 
beautify  my  house  with  the  plants  taken  from  it. 


IV.     A  Suburban  Experience 

By  J.   N.    Gerard 

An  amateur  can  readily  dispense  with  most  tools  rather  than  with 
a  greenhouse.  If  his  taste  for  growing  things  is  catholic,  it  becomes 
a  necessity;  and  if  he  collects  only  so-called  "hardy"  plants,  it 
is  scarcely  less  a  most  valuable  adjunct  to  his  garden.  With  a  winter  of 
practically  seven  months,  a  man  without  shelter  for  plants  misses  more 
than  half  his  pleasure  in  seeing  things  grow.     I  say  "a  man"  advisedly;  a 


222  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

woman,  somehow,  being  able  to  grow  plants  to  perfection  in  living-rooms 
under  adverse  circumstances.  A  greenhouse  is  nothing  more  than  a  tool 
to  a  gardener,  and  it  is  difficult  to  see  why  greenhouses  should  be  placed  so 
prominently  in  gardens,  and  often  made  so  pretentious.  They  would  mostly 
be  impro\'ed  by  a  coat  of  dark-green  paint,  which  would  help  to  eliminate 
them  from  the  landscape;  or,  if  near  the  house,  they  might  be  of  some 
colour  which  would  make  them  as  inconspicuous  as  possible. 

Having  satisfied  oneself  as  to  the  need  of  a  house,  the  ways  and  means 
are  in  order.  Here,  as  in  most  garden  matters,  the  cost  is  on  a  sliding  scale 
which  bears  no  relation  to  the  pleasure  to  be  derived.  One  can  spend  several 
hundred  dollars  on  a  small  house,  or,  if  he  is  handy  with  tools,  can,  by  using 
sash,  cover  as  much  space  as  one  would  care  to  look  after  at  an  expense 
for  materials  of  fifty  to  seventy-five  dollars.  A  good  hot-water  apparatus 
with  two-inch  pipes  should  cost  as  much  more.  This  will  cost  nothing  to 
place,  if  pipes  are  bought  cut  to  right  lengths. 

There  are  makeshifts  for  heating,  but  for  a  small  house  or  a  large  one 
there  is  nothing  as  satisfactory,  to  my  mind,  as  hot-water  circulation  from 
a  self -feeding  heater.  These  heaters  need  no  attention  oftener  than  twice 
daily.  One  does  not  care  to  be  tied  up  to  a  fad,  and  a  greenhouse  so 
heated  can  be  left  to  the  care  of  almost  any  one.  I  have  heated  a  house 
fifteen  by  eighteen  feet  for  about  ten  years  with  such  a  stove  with  an 
average  of  less  than  twenty-five  pounds  of  coal  per  day. 

In  a  greenhouse,  as  with  other  things,  it  is  not  what  you  put  in,  but 
what  you  get  out  of  it,  that  counts.  The  "cropper"  finds  his  fun  in  practical 
results,  while  another  has  just  as  much  fun  in  letting  things  grow  and  seeing 
visions  without  tangible  results;  while  another  man,  who  should  be  an  ento- 
mologist, persecutes  bugs  to  his  joy.  (There  are  insects  to  be  found  in  a 
greenhouse   sometimes.) 

There  are  some  advantages  and  some  disadvantages  in  attaching  a 
greenhouse  to  a  dwelling,  but  the  man  who  likes  his  fling  and  wants  a  work- 
house had  better  have  it  at  a  little  distance,  where  his  ideas  of  order  will  not 
receive  critical  attention.  In  this  case  he  will  be  doing  about  the  best  for 
his  comfort  if  the  house  is  only  shortly  distant  from  the  dwelling,  when  the 
heater  may  be  placed  in  the  cellar,  to  the  saving  of  room,  and  the  saving  of 
comfort  on  stormy  nights. 

Do  not  get  hot  yourself  when  told  that  "you  should  see  Mr.  Brown's 
flowers,"  when  you  know  they  are  chickweed  as  compared  with  yours. 


An  ideal  worth  striving  for — to  own  such  a  place  and  share  it  with  others 

The  feathery  grace  of  palms,  the  rugged   strength  of  sword-liite  pandanus  leaves,  the  greenery  of  ferns  and  hanging    baslsets, 
the  rich  form  and  colouring  of  certain  begonias 


The  Pleasures  of  a  Small  Greenhouse  225 


V.     A  Rose-fancier's  Hobby 

By  Edward   A.    Reed 

Eight  Imndrcd  roses  per  season  in  a  house  ten  and  one-Jialj    by    fifteen    and    one- 
half  feet 

My  little  greenhouse  is  built  directly  from,  and  includes  a  part  of, 
the  piazza  on  the  south  side  of  the  house.  It  is  ten  and  one-half  feet 
wide  and  fifteen  and  one-half  feet  long,  including  the  piazza,  which 
is  five  and  one-half  feet. 

A  door  from  the  parlour  opens  upon  the  piazza,  and  then  a  few  steps 
lead  down  to  the  floor  of  the  greenhouse  proper ;  on  the  west  is  a  door  into 
the  garden.  The  entrance  from  the  house  I  regard  as  of  supreme  importance, 
because,  fully  to  enjoy  a  greenhouse,  you  must  be  able  to  run  into  it  easily, 
at  odd  moments,  when  you  are  pressed  for  time  or  the  weather  is  stormy; 
and  then  what  pride  and  joy,  on  a  bleak  winter's  day,  to  simply  open  the 
parlour  door  and  show  admiring  guests  the  pots  of  hyacinths  and  daffodils 
— above   all,   roses  ! 

The  greenhouse  is  heated  by  a  small  hot-water  stove,  but  I  imagine 
that  it  might  be  done  more  easily  and  cheaply  by  a  coil,  if  our  furnace  per- 
mitted it.  Sloping  shelves  fill  the  piazza  for  palms,  begonias,  geraniums, 
callas,  and  other  plants,  especially  such  as  require  little  sun ;  for,  of  course, 
there  is  no  direct  light  overhead  on  the  piazza  part  of  the  greenhouse. 

The  benches  are  filled  entirely  with  roses — between  sixty  and  seventy 
in  all — Souvenir  de  Wooton  and  Bon  Silene,  with  a  few  Safranos  and  Perles. 
As  the  winter  comes  on  we  lock  the  garden  door  and  fill  that  end  of  the 
passage  with  roses  in  pots.  Most  florists  would  smile  at  the  idea  of  raising 
roses  in  such  a  house  as  mine,  but  I  average  eight  hundred  blooms  from 
October  to  June.  This  is  a  generous  reward,  not  to  mention  the  pleasure 
of  the  work. 

The  roses  are  taken  out  the  last  of  May,  and  new  ones  planted  in  the 
benches,  in  fresh  soil.  During  the  winter  the  soil  is  fertilised  with  well- 
rotted  cow  manure  and  a  little  bone-dust.  A  short  hose,  from  a  faucet  on 
the  piazza,  easily  waters  and  syringes  the  plants.  Roses  must  be  thoroughly 
syringed  to  keep  down  red  spider.  A  guard  on  the  top  of  the  piazza  and 
a  wire  screen  over  part  of  the  greenhouse  protect  the  glass  from  the  snow 
from  the  roof  of  the  house. 


226  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

In  my  opinion,  no  one  should  attempt  to  raise  roses  in  such  a  house 
who  is  not  thoroughly  in  love  with  them,  but  ordinary  plants  and  flowers 
may  be  easily  managed. 


VI.     A  General  Collection  of  Plants 

By  Hugo   Erichsen 

A   nine  by  iwdvc-joot  hottsc  containing  snmctJiing  besides  the  "easiest''  tilings 

Few  things  have  given  me  greater  pleasure  than  my  little  greenhouse, 
though  it  is  but  nine  by  twelve  feet  in  size — just  large  enough  to 
accommodate  a  comfortable  chair  (in  addition  to  the  plants),  in 
which,  more  than  once  during  hours  of  illness,  I  have  basked  ni  the  sun- 
shme  that  filtered  through  the  roof.  Alany  and  many  a  time  it  has  conveyed 
to  me  a  cheering  message  of  promise,  presaging  the  joys  of  spring. 

A  capacious  bench  in  the  form  of  a  horseshoe  accommodates  three 
rows  of  plants  of  medium  size.  In  order  to  prevent  overcrowding,  I  have 
elevated  plants  with  considerable  foliage  on  iron  stands.  Heat  is  supplied 
by  water-pipes  connected  with  a  coil  in  our  hot-an-  furnace.  One  door 
gives  access  to  the  dining-room,  and  another  opens  into  the  garden,  thus 
facilitating  transplanting  and  other  work. 

In  one  corner,  a  square  opening  was  left  in  the  floor,  enabling  me  to 
plant  a  Marechal  Niel  rose  in  the  ground,  of  which  that  vigorous  grower 
quickly  took  possession.  For  a  long  time  its  growth  was  hardly  perceptible, 
but  now  it  covers  the  top  of  the  greenhouse,  forming  a  verdant  canopy 
from  which  large,   fragrant  yellow  roses  depend  during  the  season. 

I  consider  palms  and  drac£enas  very  useful  in  conservatories  of  limited 
size.  Among  blooming  plants,  I  like  the  Dutch  bulbs,  azaleas,  some  of  the 
begonias,  geraniums,  Olea  jragrans,  the  baby  primrose  (P.  Forbesii),  Genista 
Cananensis,  the  Japanese  chrysanthemums,  and  some  of  the  varieties  of 
abutilon.  These,  with  specimens  of  Araucaria  excelsa,  philodendron, 
aspidistra,  and  an  Otaheite  orange  or  two,  will  fill  all  available  space. 

I  make  it  a  rule  to  fumigate  my  "winter  garden"  every  fall,  to  prevent 
an  invasion  of  aphides.  Smut,  which  gives  me  considerable  trouble,  is 
controlled  by  applications  of  sulphur. 

If  I  could  not  do  any  better,  I  would  convert  a  cellarway  into  a  green- 


The  Pleasures  of  a  Small  Greenhouse 


229 


house  by  covering  it  with  window-sashes,  and.  heating  it  with  an  oil-stove. 
In  competent  hands  an  outfit  of  this  kind  would  do  wonders. 


VII.     A  Greenhouse  Near  Cincinnat. 
By  E.  T.    Harvey 

My  greenhouse  is  built  on  the  east  side  of  the  house,  and  is  connected 
with  the  dining-room  by  two  doors,  which  were  formerly  windows. 
A  window  from  the  kitchen  also  looks  into  it.  Altogether,  it  is 
thirty-four  feet  long,  part  of  it 
twelve  feet  wide,  and  the  exten- 
sion with  sloping  glass  roof  is 
eight  feet  wide.  As  its  appear- 
ance indicates,  it  has  grown  from 
time  to  time,  and  I  think  for  that 
reason  it  seems  to  fit  into  the 
situation  better. 

A  flower  bed  about  two  and 
one-half  feet  wide,  which  runs 
all  around  the  house  and  next  '^'-  ^-  '^-  ^^'"^^'^ '"°''"'  greenhouse  at  Bond  hhi.  ohio 
to  the  walk,  serves  as  an  ideal  place  for  Dutch  bulbs,  and  it  is  made 
thoroughly  impervious  to  moles.  During  the  summer  it  is  mostly  filled  with 
pot  plants  from  the  greenhouse.  The  flowering  vines,  as  shown  m  the 
picture,  are  tall  nasturtiums,  which  are  still  blooming  until  the  middle 
of  November. 

At  the  south  end  of  the  greenhouse  I  have  a  large  cold-pit.  This  I 
reserve  for  the  tender  roses  and  half-hardy  plants.  In  addition  to  this, 
I  have  another  pit  for  sweet  violets,  and  I  have  a  large  lot  entirely 
devoted  to  flowers,  flowering  shrubs,  and  trees,  so  there  is  considerable 
to  look  after. 

My  greenhouse  is  heated  with  a  hot-water  heater  that  also  suppHes 
the  eight-room  dwelling  house.  I  have  always  used  anthracite  coal,  as  it 
makes  a  more  reliable,  steady  heat.  In  cold  weather  I  try  to  arrange  to 
have  the  fire  at  its  best  about  two  or  three  in  the  morning,  and  it  lasts  from 
ten  at  night  until  six  or  seven  next  morning.  I  have  curtains  to  let  down 
at  some  of  the  windows  in  the  greenhouse,  and  when  the  mercury  gets  into 


230 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


the  zeros  I  favour  the  more  tender  plants  as  weh  as  I  can.  Of  course,  in 
growing  such  a  variety  as  I  have  the  conditions  are  not  suited  to  all,  but 
I  seldom  lose  any.  The  list  is  too  numerous  to  mention,  but  I  have  some 
large  palms,  a  fine  specimen  of  Pittospornui  Tobira  more  than  five  feet 
across,  a  loquat  in  bloom,  orange  and  lemon  trees  in  fruit,  araucarias, 
azaleas,  camellias,  begonias,  ferns,  a  lot  of  flowering  plants,  and  even  crotons. 

In  summer  I  move  all  the  p  ants  and  arrange  favourable  and  attractive 
places  for  them  about  the  garden. 
Five  or  six  night-blooming  cereus, 
a  few  climbing  roses  and  a  large 
JMonstera  deliciosa  are  about  all 
that  remain  inside,  and  they  are 
too  large  to  handle. 

It  is  hard  to  estimate  the 
cost,  as  I  have  made  so  many 
changes,  but  I  should  think  about 
$350  would  put  up  the  building  if 
I  had  to  do  it  over  again. 

I  cannot  imagine  how  any 
one  who  loves  plants  could  spend 
money  better  than  by  building  a 
small  greenhouse.     Things  may  be 

so  arranged  that  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  or  a  half-hour  at  the  most, 
every  morning  is  plenty  of  time  to  care  for  it,  but  one  will  take  a  great  deal 
more  time  than  this  when  one  has  the  opportunity  to  enjoy  it. 

After  the  dark  days  of  winter,  when  the  days  lengthen  and  the  sun 
grows  brighter,  comes  the  most  enjoyable  time  in  the  greenhouse.  The 
plants  seem  to  freshen  up,  and  I  have  tender  water-lilies  and  other  things 
to  start  in  anticipation  of  summer  time.  Who  but  an  enthusiast  can  appre- 
ciate the  joys  of  the  new  spring  catalogue?  Besides  the  pleasure  of  the 
flowers  comes  the  feeling  of  looking  after  and  caring  for  the  plants.  He 
who  grows  roses  "must  first  have  them  in  his  heart."  Very  few  days  in 
the  year  pass  without  some  flowers  from  the  greenhouse  on  our  table,  and 
then  there  is  the  pleasure  of  caring  for  the  plants  themselves.  They  all 
have  different  needs  and  associations,  like  old  friends.  I  should  not  wish 
to  live  without  a  greenhouse.  There  is  no  end  of  satisfaction  in  growing 
good  things  and  watching  their  development. 


greenhouse 


The  Pleasures  of  a  Small  Greenhouse  233 

VIII.     The  Cost  of  a  Greenhouse 

By    Maida   Maitland 

A    case  where  it  paid  to  add  a  conservatory  to  a  rented  house 

A  LITTLE  more  than  a  year  ago,  as  we  stood  gazing  out  on  our  first 
garden,  the  thought  of  the  chilly  winds  and  frosts  of  winter  sweeping 
away  the  wealth  of  bloom  and  leaving  things  desolate  filled  us  with 
feelings  of  keen  regret. 

"Why  not  build  a  small  conservatory  and  carry  on  our  gardening 
through  the  winter?"   I  temptmgly  suggested. 

"I  am  afraid  the  cost  is  away  beyond  our  means,"  was  the  cautious 
man's    reply. 

"We  can  at  least  get  prices  and  consult  our  bank-book,"  the  tempter 
ventured. 

The  man's  eyes  brightened  as  a  vision  of  roses,  carnations,  and  bright 
flowers  blooming  amid  the  snows  of  a  Canadian  winter  rose  to  his  mind 

Landlord,  plumbers  and  contractors  were  interviewed,  and  the  proposi- 
tion stood  thus :  The  landlord  agreed  to  allow  us  to  buikl  a  conservatory, 
to  become  his  property  on  our  removal  from  his  house.  The  house  was 
to  be  ours  for  five  years,  and  forever  if  we  wanted  it.  A  conservatory  ten 
by  sixteen,  built  of  best  material,  would  cost  $150. 

The  woman  sat  back  with  disappointment  plainly  visible  on  her  face, 
for  this  to  her  seemed  too  large  an  outlay  to  spend  on  a  house  not  their  own. 

"Let  us  see,  now,"  said  the  business  man.  "Spread  over  five  years, 
$150  would  increase  our  rent  exactly  $2.50  per  month,  and  if  we  remained 
ten  years  it  would  be  $1.25." 

"Then  if  that  is  all,  we'll  have  our  greenhouse!"  was  the  woman's 
joyous  reply,  "for  by  your  figuring  it  just  amounts  to  our  cream  bill  for 
the  month." 

In  three  weeks  the  work  was  completed,  and  there  was  an  air  of  excite- 
ment about  the  place  as  the  plants  began  to  arrive.  A  good  space  was 
set  aside  for  carnations;  these  were  benched,  likewise  the  roses.  Down 
the  center  we  placed  a  rack  with  three  shelves,  decreasing  in  width  as  it 
ascended.  The  top  shelf  was  built  like  a  window-box,  only  wider,  and 
around  both  sides  our  choicest  vines  were  planted,  but  so  arranged  as  not  to 
interfere  with  the  shelves  beneath.     Around  the  other  two  sides  of  the  room 


234 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


a  bench  was  placed  with  sides  built  up  to  hold  three  inches  of  earth.  At 
the  inside  edge  of  this,  moon  vines,  swansonia,  and  the  beautiful  passion 
vine  were  benched  at  intervals  and  trained  on  trellises  to  cover  the  walls. 
All  the  creepers  from  the  baskets  and  window-boxes  of  the  summer  were 
placed  to  the  outside  edge  of  the  table,  and  in  one  month,  as  we  beheld 
our  handiwork,  the  result  was  encouraging. 

All  went  well  until  the  cold  nights  of  December  came ;  in  the  mornings 


It  is  worth  while  to  have  a  little  greenhouse  for  the  pleasure  of  growing  one's  own  chrysanthemums 


The  Pleasures  of  a  Small  Greenhouse  237 

the  temperature  would  go  down  to  forty-two  degrees.  However,  during 
the  day  the  sun's  bright  rays  would  warm  up  things  to  nearly  scorching 
point,  but  to  counterbalance  the  chill  that  was  sure  to  follow  at  night  I 
religiously  excluded  all  fresh  air,  so  as  to  retain  all  the  heat  possible.  This, 
we  found  later,  wou'd  never  do.  The  temperature  must  vary  but  slightly 
during  the  twenty-four  hours  in  order  to  approximate  natural  conditions. 
Then  came  depressing  days,  and  it  was  feared  by  those  who  laughed  at  us 
and  those  who  encouraged  us  that  our  venture  was  a  failure  after  all. 

One  day  at  '.unch  we  told  of  our  trials  and  disappointments  to  a  clever 
young  architect  who  was  visiting  us,  and  after  a  careful  investigation  of 
the  little  building  he  advised  us  to  send  for  a  carpenter,  cut  out  a  small 
groove  on  the  inside  of  each  window-frame  with  the  exception  of  the  roof, 
and  insert  a  second  pane  of  glass.  This  increased  our  expenditure  somewhat, 
so  that  we  counted  that  with  these  extras  and  the  necessary  plants  to  stock 
the  place  our  expense  account  reached  $200.  With  the  extra  glass  our 
troubles  ceased,  and  during  the  intense  cold  of  our  Canadian  climate  we 
were  able  to  keep  the  tenderest  plants.  Before  long  our  carnations  bloomed 
freely,  geraniums,  begonias,  chrysanthemums  and  other  plants  added  colour 
and  beauty  to  our  winter  garden,  and  we  felt  that,  had  our  venture  cost 
twice  the  amount,  we  were  amply  repaid.  When  the  warm  sunshine  of 
February  came  to  us,  our  roses,  which  we  had  looked  upon  as  failures,  budded 
and  blossomed,  and  then,  indeed,  we  felt  that  we  had  reached  success.  How- 
ever, there  are  two  sides  to  all  questions,  and  there  are  many  disappointing 
features  the  first  year  in  a  greenhouse,  and  to  all  who  embark  in  the  venture 
I  will  give  the  quaint  definition  of  "patience"  as  given  by  a  little  Scottish 
maiden  to  hang  as  a  motto  over  the  conservatory  door:  "Bide  a  wee  and 
dinna  wearv." 


CHAPTER   XV 
How  TO  ^Iake  a  Formal  Garden  at  a  Moderate  Cost 


By  Warren   H.   Manning 


l£^ 

m.^/"  -i-r 

-i*^ 

ii.ioii 

} 

r^^-   . 

.-A, 

c 

-=^s=..... 

^ 

T  is  the  small  home  grounds  of  vil- 
lages that  offer  the  most  favour- 
able opportunities  for  a  marked 
advance  in  civic  improvement  and 
in  the  broadening  of  the  home  life, 
this  to  be  brought  about  by 
estabhshing  upon  the  grounds 
compartments  for  various  purposes 
as  clearly  defined  as  are  those 
of  the  house  and  in  some  of  which 
I  the  same  degree  of  comfort  and 
privacy  can  be  secured.  In 
ordinary  village  lots  such 
compartments  would  be  the 
back  yard,  of  which  a  part  would  be  used  for  service  requirements  and 
a  part  turfed  or  cultivated,  an  area  at  the  side  of  the  house  for  garden, 
lawn  or  terrace,  with  direct  access  to  the  living-rooms,  and  the  front  lawn 
— a  continuous,  unfenced  area  maintained  for  the  mutual  benefit  of  the 
householder,  his  neighbours,  and  the  public.  The  public  may  thus  secure 
vistas  over  turf  between  street,  trees,  and  houses.  The  center  of 
the  vistas  should  be  kept  open,  and  there  should  be,  along  and 
between  the  front  lines  of  the  houses,  a  nearly  continuous  but  irregular  belt 
of  vines,  shrubs,  and  herbs.  Such  a  belt,  by  the  continuity  of  its  greenness 
and  its  graceful  drapery  of  foliage  and  stems,  brings  houses  varying  in  style, 
size  and  colour  into  harmonious  relations  with  each  other,  with  the  grounds, 
and  with  the  surrounding  landscape,  and  gives  a  relief  to  the  rigidity  of 
architectural  lines.  That  part  of  the  plantation  extending  from  house  to 
house  will  serve  also  to  screen  a  garden  or  terrace  from  passers-by. 

In  assigning  space  to  each  compartment,  provision  should  also  be  made 

239 


240         How  to  Make  a  Formal  Garden  at  Moderate  Cost 

for  room  upon  which  to  estabhsh  the  border  plantations  required  to  shut 
out  unattractive  and  frame  in  attractive  views,  as  seen  from  important 
viewpoints  within  house  and  grounds.  In  all  this  study  regard  should  be 
had  for  the  general  composition — that  is,  the  picture  to  be  produced 
ultimately  by  the  house,  with  its  drapery  of  vines,  its  skirting  of  shrubs, 
and  the  trees  that  form  its  background  and  frame  in  its  lawn  areas. 

Primarily,  the  architectural  character,  the  general  arrangement  and 
location  of  the  house,  as  well  as  the  arrangement  of  the  grounds,  of  which 
the  garden,  be  it  formal  or  informal,  is  a  part,  should  be  governed  by  the 
existing  conditions.  On  a  very  rugged  and  picturesque  site,  where  the 
surface  is  covered  with  an  attractive  growth  of  low,  dense  shrubs,  an  unsym- 
metrical  house  made  to  fit  into  and  grow  out  of  the  surface  with  little  injury 
to  attractive  rock  formation  and  shrub  growth  would  be  fitting.  Upon 
such  a  site  a  formal  garden  would  be  quite  out  of  place,  because  the  cost  of 
construction  and  sacrifice  of  another  type  of  beauty  would  be  greater  than 
the  return.  A  distinctly  informal  garden,  with  the  flower  beds  in  pockets 
and  valleys  of  deep  soil,  and  where  the  native  shrubbery  already  established 
on  the  thin  soil  of  ridges  and  ledges  is  retained,  will  have  a  peculiar  beauty 
of  its  own.  A  person  having  such  a  lot,  who  can  appreciate  the  beauty 
of  natural  conditions,  or  one  having  an  abandoned  quarry  or  pit  and  who 
can  take  full  advantage  of  such  unusual  situations,  may  excite  the  mild 
derision  of  his  neighbours  for  buying  a  "rubbish  hole"  and  saving  "brush," 


A  bit  of  formal  gardening — an  incidental  feature  of  the  Stokes  estate  at  Lenox 


How  to  Make  a  Formal  Garden  at  a  Moderate  Cost        243 

but  in  the  end  he  will  turn  derision  into  congratulation  and  emulation. 
Except  in  a  comparatively  few  localities,  such  sites  are  rare.  Usually  lots 
are  so  flat  and  bare  that  some  type  of  the  formal  garden  is  the  most  feasible 
as  well  as  the  most  logical  thing,  and  it  is  for  this  reason  that  particular 
attention  is  given  to  such  gardens  at  this  time. 

The  successful  plan  for  a  formal  garden  must  grow  out  of  an  independent 
study  of  conditions,  not  a  study  of  ready-made  plans.     A  good  plan  will  be 


Hardy  grasses  as  elements  of  formal  gardeninu       >ii       i  ^m  -  ;   inc    n   Mii^miiu   i  .nr...  m. 

a  reasonable  thing — that  is,  there  will  be  an  obvious  reason  for  every  part  of 
it.  You  will  not  put  in  walks,  beds,  dials,  arbours,  pools,  etc.,  because  they 
.are  pretty,  or  because  you  regard  them  as  an  essential  part  of  the  furnishing 
of  such  a  garden,  as  you  would  regard  a  frying-pan  an  essential  in  the  kitchen. 
Obviously,  a  pool  or  fountain  without  a  constant  and  copious  water-supply 
would  be  unsatisfactory,  and  a  sun-dial  in  constant  shade  would  be  quite 
absurd.     Now  that  all  animate  and  inanimate  things  are  given  a  voice  by 


244 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


our  story- writers,  one  should  be  somewhat  cautious  about  statuary.     Just 
imagine  the  protest  of  a  nude  figure  in  zero  weather  ! 

Do  not  attempt  to  utiHse  discarded  material  or  utensils  which  one  would 
instantly  associate  with  other  uses — such  as  beer-bottles  for  the  edging 
of  beds,  old  kettles  on  tripods  painted  red  and  with  imaginary  fires  of  stone 
under  them,  and  old  earth-filled  stoves  with  geraniums  blazing  out  of  the 
cover-holes,  love-in-the-mist  puffing  out  of  the  smoke  flue,  and  a  front 
draft  exhaling  "infant's  breath." 


A  bed  of  dwarf  flowering  cannas  as  seen  at  the  Pan-American  Exposit 


Above  all,  avoid  the  curious  and  the  grotesque  unless  you  are  ready 
frankly  to  accept  the  idea  that  the  garden  is  to  be  a  museum — a  place  for 
the  display  of  freaks.  When  you  do  this,  do  not  inflict  it  upon  all  your 
friends  all  the  time.  A  very  retired  nook  behind  a  very  high  hedge  would  be 
anappropriateplacefor  Alexander  Pope's  "Imagery  in  Evergreen  Subjects," 
with  which  a  "virtuoso  gardener"  would  "ornament  villas  and  gardens" 
to  distinguish  them  from  the  "barbarous  countries  of  gross  nature."  Fancy 
"  Adam  and  Eve  in  yew,  Adam  a  little  shattered  by  the  fall  of  the  Tree  of 
Knowledge  in   the    great   storm,    Eve   and   the  Serpent  very  flourishing";, 


How  to  Make  a  Formal  Garden  at  a  Moderate  Cost       247 

"  St.  George  in  box,  his  arm  scarce  long  enough,  but  will  be  in  condition  to 
stick  the  dragon  by  next  April ;  a  green  dragon  of  the  same,  with  a  tail  of 
ground  ivy  for  the  present;  an  old  Maid  of  Honour  in  wormwood." 

Neither  should  there  be  attempted  in  the  flower  gardens  of  small  home 
grounds  a  pattern  in  walks  and  beds  so  complicated  that  it  cannot  be  traced 
by  the  eye,  unless  all  flowers  are  omitted  from  the  beds.  The  very 
crooked  walks  and  beds  of  such  designs  are  difficult  to  care  for. 

In  determining  the  location,  the  relative  size  of  beds,  walks,  and  other 
features,  it  is  the  harmony  of  good  proportion  and  fitness  which  gives  artistic 
merit  to  a  good  design.  Good  proportion  comes  largely  from  intuition; 
fitness  grows  out  of  knowledge  and  good  sense. 

In  making  the  design  for  beds,  bear  in  mind  that  it  is  difficult  to  cultivate 
from  one  walk  a  bed  more  than  four  feet  wide,  or  one  more  than  eight  feet  wide 
between  two  walks.  If  beds  are  to  be  wider,  narrow  walks  through  the 
center  will  be  needed.  It  is  hardly  necessary  to  say  that  beds  should  be  most 
thoroughly  prepared,  if  the  most  luxuriant  growth,  best  health  and  greatest 
abundance  of  flowers  are  to  be  secured;  and  as  this  garden  represents  a 
comparatively  small  part  of  the  lot,  such  preparation  can  usually  be  afforded. 
Use  two  feet  of  good  and  well-enriched  garden  soil,  with  tile  drains  a  foot 
deeper  under  each  bed,  leading  to  a  free  outlet,  especially  in  heavy  soils. 
If  necessary,  accept  for  the  time  being  the  soil  as  it  is  with  a  very  thorough 
spading,  with  the  addition  of  a  very  large  amount  of  well-decomposed  manure, 
and  then  approach  the  ideal  treatment  as  rapidly  as  possible. 

The  width  of  a  walk  is  governed  largely  by  usage.  If  a  horse  and  cart 
are  to  be  used,  a  walk  should  be  from  six  to  eight  feet  wide ;  a  wheelbarrow  will 
require  a  walk  three  feet  wide ;  if  two  persons  are  to  walk  abreast  comfortably, 
the  walk  should  be  four  or  five  feet  wide ;  narrow  walks  in  the  center  of  beds 
should  be  from  one  and  one-half  to  two  feet  wide.  \'\'alks  made  of  a  perma- 
nent material  require  less  care  and  are  more  comfortable  to  use  at  all  times. 
A  first-rate  material  is  good  red  brick,  laid  on  a  six-  to  ten-inch  foundation 
of  loose  gravel,  cinders,  or  sand,  with  a  low  crown  to  shed  water.  Other 
coloured  brick  will  in  some  cases  be  as  good  or  better.  Slate  flagging  upon 
the  same  foundation  is  good.  Cement  concrete  is  neat  and  clean,  and  durable 
if  well  laid,  but  the  colour  is  not  as  good  as  brick.  Tar  concrete  and  asphalt 
blocks  are  an  abomination  in  colour.  Thm  sheets  of  sandstone,  limestone, 
or  other  flat -surfaced  rocks  of  irregular  outline,  make  serviceable  and  pictur- 
esque stepping-stone  walks  when  joints  are  made  close  enough  to  prevent 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


Formal  beds  edged  with  box 


A  modest  formal  garden  in  Germantown,  Pa. 


How  to  Make  a  Formal  Garden  at  Moderate  Cost         251 

the  heel  of  a  lady's  shoe  from  being  caught  in  them,  and  with  edges  next  to 
beds  made  straight.  Such  a  walk  should  also  have  a  porous  foundation. 
If,  however,  the  cost  of  such  a  foundation  cannot  be  undertaken,  lay  the 
stones  directly  upon  the  soil.  If  the  action  of  frost  makes  the  surface  of 
stones  too  uneven,  they  can  be  replaced  easily.  A  macadam  walk  of  crushed 
stone  four  inches  deep,  or  a  similar  surface  of  binding  gravel,  makes  a  firm 
walk,  but  dirt  will  track  from  it  to  the  house,  and  weeds  will  grow  in  it.  A 
surface  of  smooth,  round  pebbles  is  clean  and  free  from  weeds,  and  often 


Siaicly  steps  descend  into  the  formal  garden 


gives  an  excellent  colour-effect  when  carefully  selected,  but  it  does  not  pack 
well.  A  turf  walk  is  often  used,  but  it  holds  the  wetness  of  dew  and  rain, 
and  it  does  not  sharply  outline  the  pattern  of  a  formal  garden,  because 
there  is  not  colour  contrast  enough  between  it  and  the  planted  beds.  If 
you  do  not  care  to  go  to  the  cost  of  such  surfacmgs,  use  the  soil  of  the  garden 
as  a  walk.  It  will  be  muddy  and  dusty  at  times,  but  occasional  mud  and 
dust  need  not  seriously  detract  from  your  pleasure. 

A  low,  true  edge  of    some    material    should    be    formed    next    to    the 


252 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


bed  to  hold  walks  and  earth  in  place;  and,  in  addition  to  this,  a  verdant 
edge  of  such  plants  as  dwarf  box,  ivy,  or  the  dwarf  high-bush  cranberry^ 
all  of  which  can  be  held  by  trimming  to  a  rigid  line.  Less  desirable  as  an 
edging  are  such  plants  as  the  narrow-leaved  blue  day-lily  and  the  dwarf 
irises.  A  turf  edge  is  much  less  expensive,  but  it  lies  too  flat  to  make  a 
distinct  line  of  demarkation. 

Water  in  basins  and  fountains  adds  much  to  the  attractiveness  of  a 


Where  the  sun-dial  has  the  place  of  honour 

formal  garden  if  it  can  be  secured  to  give  a  constant  flow  to  fountains  or 
falls.  A  fountain  that  is  put  on  tap  for  company  is  likely  to  be  a  snare 
and  a  delusion.  If  your  garden  is  a  show-place,  maintained  chiefly  for  the 
benefit  of  occasional  visitors,  such  a  fountain  on  tap  may  be  all  right; 
but  if  it  is  a  place  to  live  in,  you  want  the  water  daily,  just  as  you  want 
the  flowers  daily.  Even  if  you  do  not  use  water  as  a  feature  in  the  garden 
design,  it  is  very  desirable,  and  in  some  places  quite  essential,  that  3^ou 
have  it  from  hose  connections  for  watering  beds.  Where  the  water-supply 
is  limited,  it  can  be  used  to  make  a  wet  spot  for  bog  plants,  or  it  can  be  used 


■^i.' 


■J  I 


^      5  o 

i     3  .S 


£  u 


<_   a 

°  S 

(U     o 


n 


How  to  Make  a  Formal  Garden  at  a  Moderate  Cost        257 

in  a  shallow  basin  as  a  water  mirror,  in  which  fishes,  but  not  plants,  can  be 
kept,  but  in  which  plants  grown  along  the  side  will  be  reflected;  or  as  a  small 
stream  running  from  a  spouting  head  into  a  basin  in  a  wall,  from  which 
it  will  drip  to  a  lower  basin  with  an  outlet.  If  there  be  a  column  of  water, 
it  should  be  continuous  and  strong.  In  the  construction  of  basins,  cement 
is  most  serviceable  and  least  expensive.     Of  course,   in  winter  the  water 


Bulb  time  in  the  formal  garden 

should  be  shut  ofT;  but  if,  in  the  construction  of  the  basins,  the  sides 
are  made  flaring  instead  of  perpendicular,  the  action  of  ice  is  not  so 
likely  to  burst  them. 

A  hedge  as  a  boundary  for  a  garden  is  appropriate;  but,  owing  to  the 
amount  of  space  it  will  ultimately  occupy,  its  interference  with  the  growth 
of  garden  plants,  the  trouble  of  keeping  it  in  good  condition,  and  its  lack 
of  flowers,  it  is  usually  best  to  substitute  substantial  brick  or  stone  walls, 
if  the  house  be  of  brick  or  stone,  or  wooden  fences  if  the  house  be  of 
wood.  The  objection  to  wood  lies  in  the  difficulty  of  repairing  and 
painting  it  when  covered  with  vines. 


2s8 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


An  appropriate  place  for  seats,  arbours,  sun-dials,  and  other  useful 
and  attractive  accessories  will  be  found  as  the  plan  develops. 

In  planting,  the  purpose  should  be  to  establish  an  effective  display 
of  colour  in  foliage,  flowers,  twigs,  or  fruits  in  their  season,  rather  than  a 
varied  and  interesting  collection  of  plants — if  it  is  a  flower  garden  rather 
than  a  botanic  garden  that  is  to  be  created.  This  will  be  accomplished 
best  by  using  in  large  quantities  the  few  varieties  that  will  give  the  best 
floral  or  other  effects  desired,  rather  than  many  varieties  in  small 
quantities.  Obviously,  trees  or  shrubs  having  a  wide  spread  cannot  be 
used  unless  trimmed  constantly. 


Standard  roses  and  pyrethrums  near  the  greenhouse 


CHAPTER  XVI.     JAPANESE  GARDENING  FOR  SMALL  AREAS 

I.  A  Japanese  Garden  in  an  American  Yard 

By  William  Verbeck 

ORN  and  brought  up  in  Japan,  my  natural  playground  was  the 
Japanese  garden.  I  was  happy  when  I  drowsed  away  a  hot 
afternoon  under  a  distorted  pine,  on  the  shady  side  of  a  child 
mountain,  with  a  book  about  elves  and  dwarfs  in  my  hand ; 
and  in  my  imagination  I  would  people  the  little  hills  and 
dells  with  the  wee  folk  Later,  when  the  maples  were  red,  a  score 
of  my  Japanese  playmates  would  join  me  in  mimic  war;  and,  armed 
with  bamboo  lances  and  swords,  we  attacked  and  counterattacked,  now 
hiding  in  mountain  fastnesses,  now  wading  through  iris  ponds.  The  masking 
of  hill  behind  hill  and  the  artful  vistas  of  the  ancient  garden-builder  had 
prepared  for  us  an  ideal  stage  for  strategy  and  battle.     As  I  grew  older, 


'With  rye  straw   I   thaiched   ihc   cate.     My  fences  were  made  of  bamboo  fishing  poles  tied  with  rough  hemp  rope' 


26o  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

with  my  father  I  ex])lored  many  ancient  gardens  of  the  Daimios;  and  of 
these  I  remember  best  an  extinct  garden,  grown  to  seed,  grewsome  and 
beautiful,  the  ]3on(l  a  tarn  grown  over  with  a  green  scum.  I  learned  to 
love  those  gardens  all,  from  Hamagoten,  the  Emperor's  summer  garden 
by  the  sea,  to  the  humblest  effort  of  the  farmer  to  merge  a  stone,  a  shrine, 
and  a  pine  tree  into  a  landscape. 

And  so  when  1  made  my  home  in  America  I  longed  for  a  genuine 
Japanese  garden.  My  first  one  I  built  behind  a  school  building,  m  the 
woods,  on  a  beetling  chft'  of  limestone.  Jutting  over  the  rocks  I  put 
my  summer  house.  It  was  fifteen  feet  square,  and  the  veranda  commanded 
a  vista  cut  through  the  tree-tops  of  the  valley  below.  A  sliding  window 
in  the  back  gave  a  glimpse  of  the  dense  woods  which  opened  up  into  a  long 
vista  to  the  north.  Instead  of  paper  shutters  I  used  ground  glass,  as  better 
withstanding  the  weather.  The  room  had  its  regulation  tokonoma  and  its 
chigaidana — the  first  an  alcove  for  the  hanging  scroll,  the  second  a  recess 
for  shelves  arranged  /'//  echelon.  The  walls  were  first  plastered  smooth,  and 
then  I  overlaid  them  with  plaster  of  Paris,  using  my  bare  hands  to  describe 
cloud  patterns  as  I  approached  the  ceiling  and  sea-wave  patterns  on  nearing 
the  floor.  Among  the  waves  I  set  shells  and  mosses.  The  whole  was  built 
of  carefully  seasoned  pine  of  selected  grain,  and  oiled  to  give  the  appearance 
of  age.  I  cleared  a  space  of  about  fifty  feet  square  in  front  of  the  summer 
house,  and  laid  out  what  is  technically  known  as  a  "flat  garden."  I  dug 
out  an  old  brook-bed  that  meandered  through  it,  and  covered  the  bottom 
with  white  pebbles,  bordering  it  with  rocks  and  ferns.  A  bamboo  fence 
and  a  rustic  bridge  completed  this  plateau. 

But  I  tired  of  this  garden,  because  I  wanted  to  see  and  hear  real  water, 
and  that  was  impossible  on  the  cliff;  so  I  dragged  my  little  house  down  to 
the  campus  below  the  school,  against  a  fringe  of  trees,  and  remodelled  it. 
I  opened  up  another  side  for  more  ground-glass  shutters,  and  added  a  moon 
window  with  cloud  slats  across  its  face.  I  abandoned  the  flat  type  of  garden 
and  composed  something  approaching  the  conventional  "hill  garden," 
Because  of  the  difference  in  the  conditions  of  climate  and  environment, 
I  found  it  impossible  to  conform  to  all  the  traditions  and  laws  of  the  classical 
Japanese  garden  Therefore  I  treated  my  subject  freely,  and  followed  the 
spirit  rather  than  the  letter  of  the  conventions. 

The  classical  garden,  like  a  sonnet,  is  governed  by  special  laws  of  harmony 
and  rhythm.     It  must  have  its  five  hills,  its  ten  trees,  and  its  fourteen  stones 


Japanese  Gardening  for  Small  Areas 


265 


— and  the  greatest  of  these  is  the  stones.  You  can  get  along  without  hills, 
and  you  can  get  along  without  trees,  but  you  cannot  get  along  without 
stones.  Indeed,  the  perfect  type  of  the  fiat  garden  is  nothing  but  an  archi- 
pelago of  rocks  in  a  sea  of  white  pebbles.  The  stones  must  be  the  foundation ; 
the  rest  are  mere  accessories.  Speaking  stones  are  what  is  wanted — stones 
that  suggest  moods  and  passions — for  the  Japanese  recognise  that  there 
are  sermons  in  stones.  Each  stone  has  its  name  and  relative  ]-)lace  in  the 
composition.  There  is  the  Guard- 
ian Stone  in  the  center,  and 
opposite  it  the  Belle  view  Stone. 
Across  the  cascade  is  the  Moon- 
shade  Stone,  and  so  on  in  orbits 
around  the  grand  key  are  the 
Throne  Stone,  Worshipping 
Stone,  Snail  Stone,  Idle  Stone, 
and  so  on. 

The  hills  unmask  each  other 
by  rule.  The  principal  hill  has  its 
two  foothills,  its  spur  hills,  its  dis- 
tant peak  seen  through  a  valley, 
and  the  low  hill  that  must  stand 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake. 

As  there  is  a  principal  stone 
and  a  principal  hill,  so  must 
there  be  a  "principal  tree,"  the 
slwjin-boku,  around  which  the 
Tree  of  Perfection,  the  Tree  of 
Evil,  the  Tree  of  the  Setting  Sun, 
the  Tree  of  Silence,  and  the  Tree 
of  Solitude  bow  their  lesser  heads. 

These  are  the  essentials.  Now  add  one  pond,  one  island,  two  stone 
lanterns,  three  bridges,  and  mix  thoroughly,  garnish  with  lotus,  and  serve 
with  goldfish  and  mandarin  duck.  There  is  a  recipe  for  the  classical 
Japanese  garden. 

To  return  to  my  American  translation  of  the  Japanese  garden — I  laid 
out  an  irregular  square  one  hundred  feet  in  each  direction,  and  into  it  crowded 
about  an  acre  of  view,  and  by  exaggerating  the  perspective  produced  depths 


1  wanted  to  see  and  hear  real  water 


266  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

of  vista  such  as  might  suggest  gUmpses  through  the  wrong  end  of  a  telescope. 
In  the  center  I  placed  my  "  Dedication,"  or  key-stone,  a  ragged  slab  on  end 
with  a  bold,  smooth  face,  ready  for  inscription.  Following  traditions,  I 
placed  my  garden  with  its  back  to  the  north ;  and  from  the  other  three  points 
of  the  compass  I  made  sketches,  each  with  salient  features  invisible  in  the 
other  two.  From  these  "elevations"  I  blended  a  "plan."  The  lakelet 
and  the  hills  were  then  staked  out  in  no  haphazard  way.  For  every  inlet 
there  was  a  reason.     Every  hill  formed  a  screen  of  malice  aforethought. 

The  lake  was  made  about  fifty  feet  long,  well  grouted  and  gravelled, 
to  hold  a  foot  of  water.  On  the  west  side  three  immense  stones  formed 
the  entrance  to  a  cave  into  which  the  waters  of  the  lake  followed,  or,  more 
properly  speaking,  out  of  which  the  waters  poured.  The  plashing  of  a 
hidden  waterfall  came  out  from  the  cool  of  the  grotto.  A  second  source 
of  supply  was  arranged  to  creep  through  the  dry  lake  to  the  south,  grown 
with  rank  weeds  and  iris.  The  third  supply  was  in  the  shape  of  a  small 
mountain  torrent  shooting  under  a  rustic  sod  bridge.  Then  the  electricians 
buried  their  wires,  safely  protected  from  moisture  in  lead  pipes,  and  leading 
to  fifteen  standard  lanterns.  Here  it  was  that  I  fell  from  grace  in  not  adhering 
to  the  strict  traditions  of  the  classical  garden.  My  desire  for  fairy  effects 
turned  me  to  the  more  plebeian  models,  and  I  found  in  the  tea-garden  an 
excuse  for  illumination.  I  therefore  added  a  dozen  wooden-post  lanterns 
to  my  three  monumental  stone  lanterns. 

Aly  "principal  hill,"  eight  feet  high,  was  built  over  the  grotto,  and 
with  two  foothills  formed  a  crescent  chain  of  mountains  against  the  lake. 
The  foothills  were  sundered  by  a  chasm  bridged  over  with  a  great  stone  slab. 

Then  came  the  placing  of  the  stones.  With  no  professional  landscape 
gardener  to  hamper  me,  and  with  the  assistance  of  a  stone-boat,  an  intelligent 
team,  a  stupid  driver,  and  my  ordnance  sergeant,  who  had  learned  obedience 
m  the  army,  I  revelled  in  stones.  I  planted  and  replanted;  I  squmted  down 
lanes  and  vistas  until  each  stone  satisfied  me. 

With  rye  straw  I  thatched  the  gate  in  the  north,  and  also  a  second 
summer  house  on  the  Principal  Hill  over  the  grotto.  j\Iy  fences  were  made 
of  bamboo  fishing-poles  tied  with  rough  hemp  rope.  I  built  an  impossible 
red  bridge  over  the  dry  arm  of  the  lake.  It  is  a  facsimile  of  the  one  in  the 
Wistaria  Garden  at  Kameido,  Tokio.  Here  agam  I  borrowed  from  the 
"pleasure  garden,"  but  I  needed  a  bit  of  colour  to  balance  the  red  sacred 
gate  leading  to  my  fox-god  shrine  at  the  northern  end. 


Japanese  Gardening  for  Small  Areas  271 

In  building  this  bridge  I  am  afraid  1  have  lad  myself  open  to  the  same 
criticism  that  might  be  made  of  most  Japanese  gardens  in  America,  which 
are  generally  too  lavish  in  bronze  storks  and  expensive  dwarf  trees.  They 
remind  me  of  the  new  florid  style  of  Tokio  pottery,  manufactured  for  the 
American  trade,  and  not  at  all  Hke  the  subdued  grace  of  the  old  Satsuma 
ware.  Though  I  have  some  few  Japanese  plants,  the  tree  that  looks  its 
part  the  best  is  a  grotesque  lilac  which  I  found  in  the  back  yard  of  an  adjacent 
farm.  The  garden  as  it  stands  has  cost  me,  including  everything,  about 
one  thousand  dollars.  When  once  installed,  the  expense  of  keeping  such 
a  garden  is  slight.  As  the  elements  beating  upon  the  summer  houses 
weather  the  unpainted  wood,  so  does  every  freshet  add  character  to 
the  outlines  of  the  hills  and  brooks.  The  last  cloudburst  did  more  for 
my  garden  than  my  whole  summer's  work. 


II.     The  Japanese  Garden  in  Golden  Gate  Park 
By  C.   H.   Townsexd  and   E.  C.   B.  Fassett 

There  is  probably  no  scheme  of  gardening  which  offers  greater  pos- 
sibilities for  diversified  arrangement  within  a  limited  space  than 
that  followed  by  the  Japanese.  It  is  essentially  landscape  gardening 
requiring  an  uneven  surface — there  must  be  hills  and  valleys,  groves  and 
open  spaces,  rivulets,  pools,  rocks,  and  whatever  is  suggestive  of  the  natural 
landscape.  Much  that  is  formal  is  introduced  in  the  way  of  bridges,  buildings, 
stone  lanterns,  bamboo  trellises,  and  potted  trees.  Taken  as  a  whole,  the 
features  which  compose  it  are  all  more  or  less  in  miniature,  excepting  the 
original  trees  of  the  locality  and  the  buildings.  Being  a  representation 
of  the  scenery  of  a  country  within  narrow  Hmits,  it  is  in  reality  a  condensed 
landscape.  Notwithstanding  the  high  degree  of  art  upon  which  it  depends, 
it  is  much  more  natural  in  conception  than  the  gardens  of  other  countries, 
with  their  clipped  box  hedges,  walks,  and  growths  of  all  kinds  in  straight 
rows  or  in  exact  mathematical  curves. 

The  Japanese  garden  has  been  little  more  than  an  experiment  in  this 
country.  There  is  a  large  and  notable  one  in  Golden  Gate  Park,  at  San 
Francisco,  created  as  a  Japanese  exhibit  at  the  Midwinter  Fair,  in  1893. 
This  garden  comprises  a  half -acre  of  hillside,  on  which  are  groups  of  scrubby 
pines  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  high,  and  is  enclosed  by  a  unique  fence  in 


272  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

natural  wood  with  a  coping.  A  grade,  leading  up  from  the  park  roadway  to 
the  temple-gate  entrance  of  the  garden,  is  dug  into  low,  broad  steps,  each 
earthy  terrace  supported  by  a  row  of  cobbles.  Although  said  to  be  not 
entirely  correct  as  a  Japanese  garden  gateway,  the  entrance  structure  is  a 
thing  of  beauty,  its  quaint  contours  and  the  weathered  gray  of  its  timbers 
appeahng  at  once  to  the  eye. 

Within  the  garden  there  are  two  thatch-roofed  tea-houses  overhanging 
fish-ponds,  w^here  tea  is  served  by  Japanese  women  in  native  costume.  As 
you  drink  tea  in  the  garden,  you  naturally  share  the  crisp  Japanese  cakes 
with  the  expectant  goldfishes  clustered  below.  On  higher  ground  in  the 
rear  is  a  Japanese  house. 

The  ponds  are  supplied  by  a  stream  that  comes  trickling  most  naturally 
down  the  hill  over  its  artificial  stony  bed.  The  stream  is  the  overfiow  from 
a  rock-built  well-curb  into  w^hich  water  splashes  from  a  couple  of  w^ell-buckets, 
the  rope  suspending  them  being  in  reality  the  pipe  which  conveys  the  water 
from  a  distant  reservoir.  A  mass  of  bamboo  and  pine  conceals  three  sides 
of  the  water  source  and  gives  an  air  of  sylvan  retreat.  Msitors  are  inclined 
to  follow  the  course  of  the  artfully  natural  stream  as  it  tumbles  m  cascades 
over  the  rocks,  or  widens  into  pools  crossed  by  arched  rustic  bridges,  or 
narrows  where  just  a  stepping-stone  suffices  for  a  crossing.  In  the  pools 
water-plants  fiourish,  and  along  the  rocky  banks  are  ferns,  mosses,  lilies, 
and  other  suitable  plants,  with  here  and  there  an  overhanging  pine  branch. 

The  miniature  lakes  have  the  irregular  shore  outlines  of  natural  lakes, 
and  lie  in  well-diversified  country,  if  the  term  country  can  be  applied  to  so 
limited  an  area.  Their  shores  are  low^  in  places,  with  grassy  margins,  and 
high  in  others  and  covered  with  shrubbery.  Here  and  there  are  little  groups 
of  stunted  Japanese  pine  trees  only  a  couple  of  feet  in  height.  The  ponds 
are  really  quite  shallow,  probably  not  more  than  a  foot  in  depth.  After 
being  dug,  they  are  paved  with  stones,  the  paving  extending  up  to  the  shore 
margin,  and  the  entire  bottom  covered  with  cement  to  prevent  the  accumula- 
tion of  mud.  Their  bottom  levels  are  so  arranged  that  they  can  be  readily 
drained  and  cleaned,  and,  being  of  small  size,  the  flow  of  water  is  sufficient 
to  prevent  their  becoming  stagnant.  The  rustic  bridges  are  of  proportions 
suitable  to  their  surroundings,  but  all  wide  enough  and  strong  enough  to 
carry  passengers  in  single  file. 

Along  the  walks,  sections  of  low  bamboo  fencing  are  created,  doubtless 
more  for  the  purpose  of  ornament  than  to  protect  the  tiny  lawns.     A  high 


Japanese  Gardening  for  Small  Areas  275 

bamboo  fence  covered  with  wistaria  encloses  a  yard  containing  a  pair  of 
cranes — white,  with  black  markings — that  look  as  though  they  might  have 
just  alighted  from  a  flight  across  a  Japanese  fan.  Paths,  rather  wider  than 
those  of  gardens  in  Japan,  are  mtroduced  of  necessity,  as  this  garden  is 
quite  a  public  place.  Where  the  walks  lead  over  uneven  ground,  low,  broad 
steps  are  cut  into  the  earth,  each  being  banked  with  a  log  cut  the  width 
of  the  path. 

One  would  never  know  it  was  a  square  garden  until  after  complete 
exploration,  as  only  a  part  of  it  can  be  seen  from  any  single  position,  owing 
to  the  distribution  of  its  knolls,  larger  trees,  and  buildings.  Much  of  its 
charm  would  doubtless  be  lost  with  any  cutting  away  of  shrubbery  that 
would  reveal  more  to  the  eye  and  leave  less  to  the  imagination. 

A  garden  of  this  kind  is  one  of  constant  study  and  development,  and 
becomes  to  the  Japanese  a  little  land  of  poetry,  full  of  quaint  symbolism 
and  refined  ornament,  appealing  to  the  higher  senses.  To  know  this  garden 
is  to  love  it,  and  its  subtle  charm  does  not  fail.  Of  all  restful  places,  it  is 
most  so,  and,  though  of  small  compass,  there  are  many  points  of  view,  with 
seats  artfully  placed,  where  pleasing  vistas  reward  the  eye.  There  are  a 
score  of  garden-lovers  in  San  Francisco  who  feel  that  they  must  visit  it  at 
least  once  a  week  and  watch  Mr.  Hagiwara,  the  gardener,  at  his  work. 

In  a  certain  city  a  library  window  that  once  looked  out  on  a  thirty-by- 
forty  back  yard  of  the  plainest  description — a  typically  dreary  back  yard — 
now  offers  a  view  of  a  tiny  Japanese  landscape  where  moderate-sized  stones 
represent  boulders  and  bushes  stand  for  trees.  The  stepping-stones  are 
small,  it  is  true,  but  they  lead  around  knolls  and  bits  of  shruobery  and  across 
a  tiny  bridge.  A  bamboo  trellis  above  the  board  fence  supports  vines  that 
shut  from  view  everything  undesirable. 

A  friend  with  whom  we  drank  tea  in  the  San  Francisco  garden  has 
written  this:  "I  have  a  Japanese  garden  growing  in  my  mind.  Some  day 
the  painted  wooden  steps  leading  up  past  the  side  of  the  house  into  the  yard 
in  the  rear  will  be  replaced  by  rough  stones.  Farther  back  the  planks  must 
come  up  and  be  burned,  and  there  shall  be  irregular  stones  to  step  upon. 
Ferns  and  small  pines  shall  grow  in  porcelain  bowls,  and  there  will  be  some 
mossy  stones  in  the  corner  where  it  is  always  shady.  Bits  of  bamboo  trellis 
with  wistaria  shall  serve  as  screens  where  the  outlook  is  unsightly.  Pines 
shall  grow  on  the  north  terrace  and  make  silhouettes  against  the  sky.  The 
useless  shed  shall  somehow  be  converted  into  a  Japanese  summer  house. 


276  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

I  have  already  located  some  shrubbery  that  will  be  transplanted.  At  the 
top  of  the  steps  a  torii  will  invite  entrance,  and  I  will  have  a  stone  lantern 
— a  real  ishi  doro,  even  if  it  has  to  be  made  to  order.  I  know  just  what 
trees  to  plant  for  blossoms,  and  a  little  pond  in  a  sunken  tub  will 
hold  some  water-lilies. 

"I'm  sure  to  find  a  unique  little  boulder  to  set  up  somewhere,  and  it 
will  be  the  easiest  thing  m  the  world  to  get  earth  for  a  little  mound  hill. 
There  will  be  double  windows,  and  in  the  days  to  come  I  shall  sit  in 
Buddha-like  contemplation  of  pleasant  things,  and  great  serenity  shall 
settle  upon  my  soul." 

As  one  enters  the  garden  there  is  first  an  open,  level,  sanded  area,  its 
irregular  limits  surrounded  by  small  grass-plats,  ponds,  and  the  more  stunted 
vegetation,  with  the  bridges,  tea-houses,  and  larger  trees  farther  back,  and 
many  paths  with  earth-cut  steps  up  the  grades  that  rise  from  the  sanded 
area  to  several  parts  of  the  higher  grounds.  A  wistaria  projects  beyond 
the  eaves  of  the  tea-house,  and  trellises  for  vine  are  of  bamboo,  supported  by 
posts  six  feet  high.  Against  the  rear  wooden  wall  of  the  garden  rises  a 
receding  tier  of  heavy  wooden  shelves,  from  which  grow  many  varieties  of 
dwarfed  pines  in  porcelain  pots. 

The  original  pines  in  the  garden,  still  erect  in  their  natural  symmetry, 
are  stripped,  one  by  one,  of  their  Californian  simpHcity  and  taught  to  wear 
the  art  of  Japan.  Each  tree  is  studied  by  the  quiet  gardener.  Its  possi- 
bilities as  a  part  of  its  surroundings  are  carefully  worked  out  and  it  is  put 
to  torture.  Its  young  limbs  are  racked  and  its  back  bent  until  it  is  trans- 
formed into  a  creature  of  weird  fantasy.  A  well-rounded  young  pine  tree 
must  be  cultivated  and  cropped;  its  hmbs  must  be  bent  and  altered,  lopped 
off  on  one  side  near  the  top  and  on  the  other  near  the  base,  until  it  looks 
as  aged  as  a  veteran  of  the  hilltop  after  the  buffeting  storms  of  years. 

Fancy  grooming  the  foliage  of  a  pine  tree  !  Yet  this  very  thing  is  done 
by  boys  in  the  branches,  who  pull  out  the  old  leaves  till  only  fresh  green  ones 
remain.  Here  they  saw  a  branch  to  let  in  light  and  a  shapely  patch  of  blue 
sky,  and  there  thin  out  the  twigs  to  leave  a  fret  of  pine  needles  against  an 
azure  ground.  Likewise  eff'ective  vistas  are  opened  up  through  the  scraggy 
pines.  The  limbs  of  the  trees,  on  close  inspection,  are  seen  to  be  twisted 
and  braced  to  produce  the  picturesque.  Each  gracefully  reaching  branch 
in  the  training  is  often  splintered  with  bamboo  and  tied  fast  with  numberless 
hempen  strings.     As  the  twig  is  bent,  so  grows  the  tree,  and  its  large  branches 


Japanese  Gardening  for  Small  Areas  279 

by  gentle  but  persisted  suasion.  The  individualised  graces  thus  imparted 
to  each  branch  excite  esthetic  emotions,  even  in  those  who  have  no  knowl- 
edge of  the  symbolic  suggestions  thereby  conveyed.  The  Japanese  hold  a 
worshipful  attitude  toward  "the  honourable  pme,  "  and  their  never-ending 
care  produces  results  which  are  a  revelation. 

Blossoming  plants  are  selected  with  care  to  bloom  in  rotation.  At 
one  visit  you  find  the  garden  with  azaleas  not  great  bush  shrubs,  but  dainty, 
well-bred  plants,  each  blossom  perfect  and  of  exquisite  colour.  Another 
time  the  Japonicas  alone  are  in  evidence,  but  in  such  harmony  that  one 
forgets  other  flowers  have  bloomed  there.  Still  again,  some  time  in  February, 
pink  flowers  burst  forth  from  the  twisted  branches  of  the  dwarfed  almonds, 
and  after  these  bloom  the  plums  and  cherries.  In  the  autumn  there  are 
chrysanthemums.  It  must  not  be  understood  that  flowers  are  numerous 
at  any  time.  One  of  the  charms  of  Japanese  gardening,  as  of  art,  is  the 
simplicity  and  freedom  from  overcrowded  variety;  they  subordinate  lesser 
things  to  a  single  point  of  interest.  They  insist  upon  restful  spaces,  and  the 
beauty  of  a  single  spray  must  be  revealed  and  emphasised. 

The  Japanese  garden  is  more  than  a  flower  garden,  and  its  attractions 
are  not  confined  to  the  brief  season  of  flowers.  In  winter  it  is  not  a  waste 
of  broken-down  stalks.  The  pmes  in  their  quaint  and  weird  forms  are 
there  in  winter  as  in  summer;  the  pathways  among  the  evergreens  and 
boulders,  across  the  bridges,  and  under  the  arches,  still  bear  the  alluring 
aspect  of  a  garden. 

Even  the  fences  are  always  important  in  the  decoration.  The  minor 
enclosures  are  of  bamboo,  while  the  fence  enclosing  the  garden  is  made  of 
weathered  wood,  showing  the  natural  grain.  The  buildings  also  show  the 
knots  and  grain  of  the  wood.  Pamt  is  not  used  on  any  of  the  garden's 
structures. 

Single  flat  stepping-stones  are  much  used  by  the  Japanese,  and  they  are 
placed  so  artfully  that  one  naturally  follows  their  meanderings.  The  paths 
must  suggest  the  most  natural  courses  from  point  to  point.  But  neither 
the  fences  nor  the  paths  are  straight,  if  the  gardener  thinks  the  topography 
will  permit  of  their  being  made  otherwise.  Japanese  stone  lanterns  are 
effectively  placed  in  favourite  locations,  such  as  on  small  islands  or 
overlooking  the  water. 

It  is  the  gardener's  art  to  place  the  seats,  arbours  and  summer  houses 
for  the  best  views  of  the  garden's  attractions.     Openings  are  made  through 


28o  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

the  shrubbery  to  offer  inviting  gHmpses  beyond,  where  some  one  thing  is 
given  prominence,  although  it  may  be  only  a  fine  boulder  or  an  artistic  roof 
over  a  drinking  basin.  The  boulders,  in  the  beauty  of  this  natural  roughness, 
are  emphasised  after  they  have  been  located  by  the  Japanese  gardener. 
No  art  of  the  stonecutter  could  make  them  more  attractive,  while  the  use  to 
which  some  are  put  compels  approval  from  its  very  genuineness. 

Stone  lanterns,  porcelain  bowls  and  wooden  structures  vary  the  scheme 
of  decoration  with  their  shapes  outlined  upon  the  somber  foliage.  The 
ishi  doro — the  stone  lantern,  the  torii — the  archway  with  double  timbers 
across  the  top,  said  to  be  an  invitation  to  the  birds,  are,  like  other 
structures  in  the  garden,  full  of  meaning  to  the  Japanese,  but  these  decorative 
accessories  do  not  convey  to  the  foreign  mind  so  much  that  they  could  not 
be  dispensed  with  and  the  simple  garden  adopted  at  its  real  value  as  a 
natural  scheme. 

The  Japanese  create  even  smaller  models  of  landscapes — gardens  so 
tiny  that  they  may  occupy  no  more  space  than  the  top  of  a  good-sized  table. 
In  these  the  merest  pebbles  do  duty  as  rocks,  a  capful  of  stones  will  construct 
a  cliff,  and  a  bunch  of  small  plants  serve  for  a  forest,  while  the  paths  and 
streams  may  be  spanned  by  a  finger's  breadth. 

Landscape  gardening  is  said  to  have  been  introduced  into  Japan  from 
China,  where  Buddhist  priests  had  created  miniature  landscapes  in  the 
temple  gardens.  It  was  to  this  end  that  the  dwarfing  of  trees  and  shrubs 
became  a  necessity.  The  artistic  purpose  was  to  copy  the  attractions  of 
a  true  landscape  and  to  give  the  impression  that  a  real  one  conveys.  It 
stands  for  a  picture,  not  merely  to  look  upon,  but  one  to  stroll  about  in  and 
to  be  enjoyed  from  within  the  picture  itself.  The  Japanese  garden  is  as 
much  an  art  creation  as  is  a  painting. 

There  are  several  styles  of  gardens  in  Japan,  having  in  common  many 
names  and  much  folklore,  but  they  are  also  individualised  as  the  gardener 
— a  poet  or  priest,  as  he  may  be — endeavours  to  express  some  mood  of  nature. 
There  are  "hill  gardens,"  or  "flat  gardens,"  in  their  various  "rough"  or 
"finished"  fashions,  and  there  are  trees  for  a  framework  of  foliage,  or  stones 
for  the  laying-out  of  a  ground-plan.  Perhaps  by  the  readmg  of  this  sketch 
of  a  transplanted  Japanese  garden  in  America  some  one  having  a  patch 
of  rugged  ground  covered  with  trees  and  bushes  may  be  tempted  to  convert 
it  into  a  garden  somewliat  of  the  Japanese  pattern. 


CHAPTER  XVII.     WILD    GARDENS 

I.     Wild     Gardening     in     a     Small     Area 

By  James  J.   Allen 

CANNOT  remember  ever  to  have  seen  the  gentle  art  of 
wild  gardening  numbered  among  the  kingly  sports,  yet  of 
them  all  there  is  perhaps  none  more  worthy  of  the  name. 
When  we  read  in  Mr.  Robinson  s  entertaining  book  how 
whole  estates  may  be  devoted  to  its  development,  we  can 
understand  how  the  ideal  wild  garden  may  call  for  time,  money  and 
elaborate  equipment  such  as  only  those  of  princely  birth  and  fortune 
may  be  presumed  to  possess  But  it  is  not  of  such  extensive  affairs  that 
I  purpose  to  speak,  but  of  a  modest  experiment  of  my  own,  one  quite 
within  the  reach  of  any  purse,  and  calling  for  no  more  of  royalty  than 
inheres  in  any  citizen  who  exercises  sovereignty  over  his  own  back  yard. 
In  fact,  mine  is  such  an  unpretentious  little  thing  that  I  am  hardly  worthy 
to  be  called  a  wild- gardener,  and  it  may  be  thought  presumptuous  for  me 
to  speak  as  if  I  was  an  accepted  member  of  the  guild.  Still  I  have  noticed 
that  the  true  wild- gardener  is  to  be  recognised  by  certain  qualities  of  the 
mind  and  heart  rather  than  by  the  number  of  acres  over  which  his  possessions 
extend.  If  he  delights  in  the  out-of-door  life;  if  he  prefers  the  field  laughing 
with  daisies  and  spotted  with  Queen  Anne's  lace  to  the  regularly  laid  out 
garden  he  exhibits  some  of  the  hall-marks  of  the  brotherhood,  There  is 
hope  for  him  that  he  may  yet  attain  to  that  attitude  of  tolerant  contempt  for 
all  purely  conventional  gardening  which  is  the  distinguishing  characteristic 
of  the  wild  gardener.  There  never  yet  w^as  one  at  all  worthy  of  the  name 
who  could  ab  de  a  regular  flower-bed.  Your  prim  and  formal  border  is  an 
abomination  to  him,  and  it  is  a  settled  canon  of  his  cult  that  wild  gardening 
bears  about  the  same  relation  to  the  ordinary  kind  that  epic  poetry  does  to 
the  roundelay.  And  I  take  it  to  be  some  evidence  of  inward  grace  and 
worthiness  that  the  feeling  appeals  to  me  as  by  no  means  indefensible.  Just 
as  if  there  were  not  beauty  enough  in  the  individual  flowers,  but  we  must 

283 


284 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


strive  to  construct  out  of  them  a  lot  of  formal  beds,  designed  after  the  latest 
oilcloth,  and  in  which  the  subtle  and  delicate  beauty  of  the  parts  is  lost  in 
the  commonness  of  the  whole  ! 

It  is  much  the  same  as  if  the  masterpieces  in  the  Uffizi  were  grouped 
together  so  as  to  reproduce  the  mosaics  in  its  pavement,  and  all  the  sweetness 

of  Fra  Angelico,  the  grace  of 
Raphael,  and  the  power  of 
Buonarroti  were  sacrificed  to  the 
mediocrity  of  a  Greek  border. 
If  one  can  imagine  how  Ruskin 
would  have  felt  over  such  an 
arrangement  of  the  masters,  one 
can  understand  how  it  is  that  all 
lovers  of  the  wild  garden  the  world 
over  go  back  to  nature  for  their 
inspiration,  and  echo  j\Ir.  Robin- 
son's prayer  for  deliverance  from 
the  "death  note  of  the  pastry 
cook's  garden."  But  to  our 
subject. 

The  country  home  faces  upon 
a  street  in  a  little  rural  community 
not  so  far  from  New  York  but  that  the  proprietor  of  the  wild  garden,  who 
works  for  a  living  during  such  intervals  as  his  royal  pastime  allows,  has  no 
trouble  in  passing  daily  back  and  forth.  From  the  side  and  rear  the  house 
looked  out  upon  a  piece  of  waste  ground  which,  until  my  no\'itiate  began,  had 
been  abandoned  to  the  sumac  and  the  bramble.  This  was  separated  from  the 
cultivated  garden  and  the  road  by  a  terrace  four  feet  high,  surmounted 
along  its  entire  length  by  a  trelHs  covered  with  sweet  peas.  Behind  this 
trellis  and  the  bank  the  seclusion  was  complete.  It  was  here  that  I  started 
the  wild  garden,  working  entirely  screened  from  the  road,  while  my  two 
young  but  enthusiastic  assistants  sat  in  the  shade  and  offered  advice  upon 
the  various  problems  of  floriculture  as  they  presented  themselves. 

I  commenced  by  uprooting  the  briers  and  the  sumac  bushes,  being 
careful  to  preserve  such  natural  features  as  the  place  possessed.  A  couple 
of  boulders  were  rolled  into  picturesque  positions,  and  clusters  of  bushes 
were  left  standing  here  and  there.     In  one  corner  near  the  house  a  clump 


Adder's  tongue,  or  dog's-tooth  violet 


Wild  Gardens 


285 


of  tall  white  birches  grew  directly  out  of  the  terrace.  Another  corner  was 
filled  with  a  dense  growth  of  staghorn  sumac.  Xot  far  off  was  a  fair-sized 
maple.  These  furnished  shade,  so  necessary  where  forest-loving  plants  are 
to  be  naturalised.  But  by  far  the  most  attractive  of  the  natural  features 
of  the  garden  was  a  wild  grapevine  with  gnarled  and  twisted  stem,  as  thick 
as  one's  wrist,  which  had  clambered  up  over  a  couple  of  birches,  covering 
them  with  its  mterlacing  arms  and  bending  them  over  by  its  weight,  until 
they  formed  a  natural  arbour  of  great  beauty.  Two  wild  cherry  trees  standing 
nearby  furnished  convenient  support  on  which  the  birches  leaned  when  the 
midsummer  wealth  of  leaves  and  fruit  made  the  vine  too  heavy  for  them  to 
bear.  From  a  little  distance  off  it  rose  above  the  surrounding  bushes  with 
the  symmetry  of  a  dome,  the  broad,  overlapping  leaves  covering  it  as  with 
tiles.  Beneath  was  a  veritable  bower,  at  all  times  shady,  and  a  spot 
presenting  many  possibilities.  Such  were  the  prominent  features  of  my  wild 
garden,  as  yet  uninhabited  except 
by  the  ever-present  daisy,  the 
goldenrod,  and  the  aster. 

The  task  which  now  presented 
itself  was  to  fill  this  up — to  bring 
from  forest  and  meadow  and 
swamp  every  plant  that  was 
"pleasant  to  the  sight,"  and  make 
it  to  grow  in  the  garden.  The 
work  was  commenced  in  the  early 
spring,  and  the  hepatica  and  the 
violet  were  planted  in  masses 
beneath  the  vine-covered  birches. 
Here,  too,  I  set  out  in  favourable 
positions,  under  the  tangled  lower 
branches  of  the  trees,  colonies 
of  the  pink  lady's-slipper  and 
of  the  showy  orchis.  In  the 
shade  of  the  maple  were  naturalised  the  mountain  laurel  and  the 
wild  azalea,  Anth  such  success,  too,  that  both  bloomed  the  season 
after  transplanting.  Along  the  fence  the  wild  sunflower  was  started, 
and  it  has  grown  since  with  increasing  profusion.  Under  the  cluster 
of  birches  near  the  house  I  commenced  a  fern  bed,  and  in  early  j\Iay  excited 


Rueanemone 


286  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

the  mild  amazement  of  the  cows  by  wheeHng  up  through  the  pastures 
where  they  grazed  barrow-loads  of  unfolding  fiddleheads.  Among  the  ferns 
were  planted  the  trillium,  the  pyrola,  and  a  few  stalks  of  the  graceful,  if  evil- 
scented,  cohosh.  Out  in  the  open  lot,  and  just  close  enough  to  the  maple 
for  its  swaying  branches  to  give  alternate  sun  and  shade,  I  established  a  fine 
colony  of  wild  bergamot.  The  flowers  were  found  in  a  distant  field,  where 
they  grew  m  great  irregular  masses,  like  a  lake  of  lavender  in  a  sea  of  green. 
With  great  labour  I  brought  a  quantity  of  the  roots  home.  All  about  them 
I  spread  a  broad,  thick  mat  of  creeping  thyme.  The  next  year,  when  both 
came  up  m  their  beauty,  the  picture  was  well  worth  seeing.  Verily,  no 
Oriental  monarch  sits  upon  carpet  more  magnificent ;  nor  can  the  looms  of 
Wilton  nor  of  Brussels  nor  of  far  Bagdad  produce  its  equal  !  At  all  times 
an  exquisite  green,  there  comes  a  day  when  myriads  of  unsuspected  buds 
blossom  into  simultaneous  beauty,  and  presto  !  the  "  bank  whereon  the  wild 
thyme  blows  "  rivals  in  its  carpeting  the  tapestries  of  Ormus  and  of  Ind. 

Beside  one  of  the  boulders  a  populous  little  community  of  the  Venus's 
looking-glass  was  planted.  To  my  mind  there  is  something  peculiarly 
attractive  about  this  little  plant — an  out-of-the-w^ay  something  that  baffles 
definition.  With  its  slender,  tapering  spires,  curiously  turned  and  clasped 
at  regular  intervals  by  circular,  shell-like  leaves,  each  with  its  star-fiow^er 
seated  on  the  stem,  it  is  enough  different  from  everything  else  to  suggest 
no  analogue  near  at  hand.  I  have  studied  them  often,  unable  to  satisfy 
myself  whether  they  resembled  more  a  forest  of  diminutive  totem  poles 
or  a  village  of  liliputian  pagodas. 

Out  in  the  blazing  sun  the  gorgeous  butterfly-weed  spread  its  orange 
blossoms  above  the  grass,  an  attractive  flower,  and  so  plentiful  that  one 
would  think  none  easier  to  procure.  But  let  me  warn  any  enthusiastic 
proselyte,  with  all  the  earnestness  that  the  memory  of  aching  back  and 
blistered  hands  can  give,  that  it  is  easier  to  draw  up  leviathan  with  a  hook 
than  to  raise  the  obstinate  asclepias  from  the  depths  to  which  its  fleshy 
roots  go  down. 

A  fallen  tree  or  an  old  stump  is  an  invaluable  possession  for  a  wild  garden. 
No  matter  how  bare  or  unsightly  at  first,  the  Virginia  creeper  or  the  Virgin's 
bower  w^ll  clothe  it  in  a  year  or  two  in  draperies  that  nothing  can  surpass. 
Just  under  one  edge  of  my  grapevine  I  placed  a  curious  stump  that  I  found 
in  one  of  my  rambles  near  a  neighbouring  lake.  I  astounded  a  native  by 
paying  him  twice  his  charge  for  carting  it  home.     Had  he  known  my  delight 


Wild  Gardens 


287 


over  its  discovery  he  might  have  exacted  fourfold  with  impunity.  But  I 
managed  to  conceal  my  eagerness  under  a  most  indifferent  exterior,  and  thus 
the  tide  of  opportunity  in  the  life  of  one  rustic  passed  unnoticed.  The 
stump  was  hollowed  out  with  age,  and  shaped  somewhat  like  a  boat.  Filled 
with  leaf-mould,  it  makes  a  picturesque  habitation  for  the  partridge  vine, 
the  flowering  wintergreen,  the  pipsissewa,  and  the  smaller  ferns.  All  along 
one  side  it  rests  upon  a  bed  of  moss,  and  near  it  I  have  inserted  thirty 
or  forty  roots  of  the  false  Solomon's  seal.     Back  of  these  a  more  pretentious 


False  Soiomon's  seal 


fern  bed  has  been  planned.  Here  great  masses  of  the  interrupted  fern  have 
been  installed,  along  with  the  ostrich  fern  and  the  stately  osmundas,  the 
tall  varieties  in  the  rear  and  sloping  down  to  the  shield  ferns  and  the  humble 
polypody  in  front.  Next  year,  if  all  goes  well,  that  corner  embowered 
beneath  its  vine,  and  flanked  with  ferns,  will  be  as  charming  as  Titania's 
dell.  Even  this  year  it  was  full  of  interest.  If  one  had  gone  there  in  the 
early  spring,  before  the  buds  on  the  birch  trees  had  burst  or  the  grapevine 
put  forth  a  single  leaf,  one  would  have  found  the  ground  purple  with  hepatica, 
planted  the  year  before.  They  had  hardly  gone  when  the  violets  took 
possession.  A  little  later,  beneath  the  tangled  lower  branches  of  the  trees, 
a  number  of  stout  green  cones  could  have  been  seen  pushing  their  way  up 
through  the  mould.  These  were  the  lady-slippers  and  the  showy  orchis. 
All  winter  long  I  had  been  wondering  whether  the  spring  would  call  them 
into  life  again,  so  that  now  I  watched  the  unfolding  of  the  pairs  of  broad. 
oval  leaves  with  intense  interest.  Probably  a  dozen  of  each  had  been  set 
out.     All  came  up,  and  more  than  half  of  them  bloomed  as  naturally  as  m 


288 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


their  native  wilds.     Indeed,    nothing   could  be  more  lifelike  than  the  low 
purple  and  the  white  spikes  of  the  one  and  the  nodding  pink  bags  of  the  other, 

as  they  grew  amid  the  tangle  of 
dead  twigs  about  the  foot  of  the 
trees.  To  see  them  growing  there 
in  their  freshness  one  had  to  pinch 
himself  to  realise  that  only  a 
hundred  feet  away  was  a  much- 
travelled  road,  lined  with  street 
lamps,  and  that  just  beyond  the 
terrace  was  a  most  conventional 
and  ladylike  border  of  coleus, 
geranium,  and  the  like.  This  was 
my  first  great  triumph.  I  had 
brought  to  my  very  doors  a  bit  of 
woodland  life  such  as  Nature 
reveals,  as  a  great  favour,  to  a 
chosen  few — something  which 
only  those  who  seek  her  in  her 
most  secluded  haunts  are  ever 
permitted  to  see. 

The  most  serious  difficulty  with 
which  I  had  to  contend  in  the 
construction  of  my  wild  garden  was 
the  lack  of  natural  moisture.  A 
small  pond  or  running  stream  is  almost  a  necessity.  So  many  of  our 
most  beautiful  wild  flowers  live  in  the  lush  lowlands  that  a  garden 
that  cannot  at  least  approximate  those  conditions  must  perforce  forego 
many  a  handsome  inhabitant.  Of  course,  in  my  modest  patch  of 
ground,  with  its  total  area  of  little  more  than  a  city  lot,  lakes  and 
rivulets  were  things  merely  to  be  dreamed  of.  Even  so  homely  a 
matter  as  a  bit  of  swamp  was  beyond  my  power  of  production,  all  efforts 
to  that  end  resulting  in  nothing  better  than  a  mudhole.  The  best  I  could 
do  was  to  build  of  stone  and  cement  a  rectangular  tank,  which  I  connected 
with  one  of  the  leaders  of  the  house  and  thus  made  it  do  service  as  a  miniature 
pond.  With  the  aid  of  the  garden  hose  I  had  no  trouble  in  keeping  this  full, 
and  the  overflow  kept  the  ground  below  it  at  all  times  fairly  wet.     In  this 


Trillium  grandiflorum,  with  toothwort  in  the  foreground 


Wild  Gardens 


289 


tank  I  placed  the  yellow-spattered  dock,  the  purple  pickerel- weed,  the  arrow- 
head, and  the  white  water-lily,  all  gathered  from  a  lonely  pond  in  the  woods, 
and  in  one  end  a  compact  mass  of  wild  forget-me-nots,  lifted  from  the  margin 
of  a  nearby  stream.  In  the  wet  ground  were  planted  the  early  spring  cress, 
the  painted  cup,  and  a  little  later  on  the  pitcher  plant,  the  purple-fringed 
orchis,  and  a  dozen  or  more  specimens  of  the  pogonia  and  the  calopogon. 
Surrounding  these  were  placed  the  taller  and  more  vigorous  of  the  water- 
loving  plants.  At  one  end  I  put  several  stalks  of  the  tall  meadow  rue,  and 
about  them  a  few  plants  of  the 
tawny  touch-me-not.  Back  of 
these  I  massed  the  cardinal  flower 
and  the  great  lobelia.  Along 
the  edge  and  farther  from  the 
tank  grew  the  hyssop  skullcap,  the 
purple  vervain,  and  the  yellow 
sundrops.  At  the  other  end  a 
great  quantity  of  the  blue  flag  was 
set  out,  and  a  little  way  off  a 
thrifty  bunch  of  marsh  marigold. 
During  the  year  of  transplanting 
all  did  well,  for  I  was  careful  to 
keep  everything  wet.  But  I  knew 
that  the  test  would  come  in  the 
fall,  when  the  country  house  would 
be  closed  and  the  delicate  plants 
would  be  left  upon  a  dry  hillside, 
with  no  other  moisture  than  the 
natural  rainfall  until  the  follow- 
ing spring. 

As  I  might  have  expected, 
with  the  more  tender  flowers  I 
failed.  Such  of  the  pitcher  plants 
as  survived  the  winter  sent  up  a 
few  lean  and  impoverished 
pitchers,  but  none  of  them  had 
vitality  enough  to  produce  a  flower.  To  my  surprise,  half  a  dozen 
pogonias     and    a    few    calopogons     struggled     to     maturity     amid     the 


Commonest  and  best  of  the  goldenrods  (Solidago  Canadensis) 


290  How   to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

grass,  and  bloomed.  Exquisite  in  colour  and  fragrance  they  were,  but  it 
was  easy  to  see  that  in  the  adverse  conditions  in  which  they  were 
placed  they  were  not  the  "fittest "  that  were  destined  to  survive.  With  the 
flowers  of  more  vigorous  habits  I  succeeded  better.  The  Joe  Pye  weed  grew 
like  the  fabulous  beanstalk.  The  blue  flag  was  a  mass  of  colour,  and  right 
in  the  midst  of  it  a  sturdy  buttercup  scattered  its  golden  disks  in  all  directions 
This  illustrates  one  of  the  happy  accidents  of  wild  gardening,  for  many  a  root 
is  brought  in  unawares,  to  grow  to  maturity  and  surprise  us  some  morning 
by  flaunting  its  unexpected  flowers  in  our  face.  The  tall  meadow-rue  and 
the  jewel-weed  made  a  combination  of  considerable  beauty.  But  the  cardinal 
flower  surpassed  them  all.  Ordinarily,  too  few  buds  open  at  once,  and  conse- 
quently the  one-sided  racemes,  in  spite  of  their  brilliance  of  colour,  present 
a  ragged  and  incomplete  appearance.  But,  owing  to  some  magic  of  soil  or 
sun,  my  flowers  burgeoned  out  rich  and  full.  Such  magnificence  of  colour, 
such  compactness  of  bloom,  I  have  never  seen.  The  flowers  actually  over- 
lapped one  another  like  scales,  and  the  inflorescence  was  without  a  break. 
For  whole  weeks  they  stood  there  like  tapers  of  vermilion  flame ;  and  day 
by  day  I  watched  them  as,  with  the  advancing  bloom,  the  superb  colour 
crept  slowly  up  the  stems,  until  at  length  the  last  glory  flickered  at  the  top 
and  died.  And  all  that  was  left  were  a  number  of  unsightly  stalks  on  which 
the  seed-cases  were  already  beginning  to  turn  brown. 

Of  course,  I  had  many  disappointments;  but  these  are  not  so  pleasant 
to  dwell  upon.  Many  a  specimen  transplanted  with  tender  care  never  came 
up.  Moles  beneath  the  surface,  and  rabbits  above,  had  to  be  reckoned  with. 
Once  a  workman  hired  to  clear  out  the  weeds  eradicated  a  thriving  colony 
of  the  beautiful  though  ephemeral  day-flower;  and  occasionally  when  I 
returned  at  night  I  found  that  during  the  day  my  junior  assistant  had  dug 
up  my  most  cherished  possession. 

Nevertheless,  in  spite  of  all  drawbacks,  the  making  of  the  wild  garden 
has  been  a  pleasure.  Holidays,  vacations,  and  many  an  hour  snatched  before 
and  after  the  business  of  the  day,  have  been  devoted  to  its  care.  Woods 
and  meadows  and  mountains  have  been  explored,  and  the  search  after  the 
hiding-places  of  the  rarer  flowers  has  had  about  it  some  of  the  keen  enjoyment 
of  the  chase.  In  the  three  years  that  it  has  been  a-building  quite  a  deal  has 
been  accomplished.  From  the  time  the  first  hepatica  opens  its  eyes  until 
the  last  gentian  shrivels  in  the  frost  some  eighty  species  bloom  within  its 
narrow  boundaries.     And  most  of  these  have  been  brought  there,  in  basket 


Wild  Gardens  203 

or  wheelbarrow,  from  the  country  round.  The  stocking  of  the  garden  has 
furnished  an  object  for  every  ramble  and  been  the  dominant  idea  in 
every  drive.  It  has  involved  manual  labour  of  the  most  arduous  kind, 
for  I  had  no  corps  of  servants  to  whom  I  could  say  go  hither  and  they 
went,  nor  do  this  and  it  was  done.  The  garden,  such  as  it  is,  is  the  work 
of  my  own  hands,  and  the  enjoyment  I  find  in  it  is  heightened  by  the 
labour  it  cost.  If  the  making  of  it  has  brought  me  into  closer  contact  with 
nature,  so  has  it  also  awakened  a  wider  sympathy  with  man.  One  cannot 
push  a  loaded  wheelbarrow  over  many  miles  of  unbroken  country  without 
getting  rid  of  much  of  his  indifference  toward  the  men  who  work  with  their 
hands.  As  a  recreation  it  has  displaced  tennis  and  the  wheel,  and  even  the 
links  hold  out  their  allurements  in  vain.  Recreation,  instruction,  work: 
these  three  are  found  in  my  wild  garden.     What  royal  game  can  offer  more .? 


II.     California  Wild  Flowers  for  American  Gardens 

By  Joseph   Burtt  Davy 

The  beauty  of  many  of  our  Galifornia  wild  flowers  and  their  suitabiHty 
for  garden  culture  are  not  as  well  recognised  by  the  horticulturist  and  garden- 
lovers  of  our  own  country  as  by  those  of  other  lands.  In  England,  for 
example,  no  town  or  country  garden  would  be  considered  complete  without 
its  "herbaceous  border,"  containing  among  plants  from  other  lands  many 
of  the  charming  flowers  which  make  the  California  hills  and  plains,  and  even 
deserts,  such  a  blaze  of  glory  in  the  months  of  February,  March,  and  April. 
Among  these  old-fashioned  favourites  is  the  golden  orange  Eschscholzia, 
or  California  poppy,  usually  grown  in  northern  Europe  as  a  summer  annual. 
How  well  I  remember  the  keen  delight  I  took,  in  my  boyhood  days,  in  running 
out  into  the  garden  in  the  dewy  hours  of  the  June  mornings  to  watch  the 
little  patches  of  Eschscholzia,  sown  by  my  mother's  own  hand,  throw  off 
their  quaint  nightcaps  and  show  their  rich,  satiny  petals  at  the  first  touch 
of  the  sun's  rays,  and  the  dainty  little  "baby  blue-eyes,"  and  the  prettily 
spotted  Nemophila  macidata,  drooping  with  the  weight  of  glistening  dew- 
drops,  respond  with  a  welcoming  smile  to  the  gentle  caress  of  the  sun.  Other 
summer  annuals  from  far-off  California  always  graced  our  flower  beds — 
slender  pink  clarkia,  gorgeous  lilac  godetia,  blue  lupine,  pink  calandrinia, 
the  quaint,  pink-and-white  collinsia,  called  by  California  children  ' '  Chinese 


294 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


pagodas";  yellow  collomia,  dainty,  white,  pale-yellow  or  pinkish   "meadow 
foam"   (Floerkia),  bright   little   "birds'  eyes"   (Gilia  tricolor) ,  prim  tidy-tips 

(layia),  golden  bartonia  (Mentzelia 
Lindleyi),  rich  blue  California  bell- 
flower  (Phacelia  Whitlavia),  and  the 
delicately  cream-coloured  "  cream- 
cups"  (Platystemon  Calif ormcus). 

In  the  shrubbery,  also,  California 
is  represented  among  the  earliest 
flowering  shrubs  of  spring  by  the 
beautiful  pendulous,  pink  racemes  of 
the  flowermg  currant,  with  its  spicy 
odour,  and  the  golden-flowered, 
evergreen  mahonia. 

I  could  easily  describe  a  dozen 
other  species  which  would  grace  the 
garden  of  the  most  fastidious  lover 
of  flowers,  provided  he  is  not 
wedded  to  the  formal  bedding-out 
style  of  gardening.  I  may  only 
mention,  however,  the  white  forget- 
me-not  (Plagiobothrys),  with  its 
fuzzy,  warm  bud-covering  of  rich- 
brown  hairs ;  California  children  call 
it  the  "pop-corn  flower,"  but  the 
more  poetic  Spanish -Calif  ornians 
euphoniously  named  it  Nievitas,  the 
diminutive  of  nieve  (snow).  This  is 
an  annual  plant,  grown  from  seed, 
and,  like  the  gilias,  is  found  on  the 
dry  plains  and  hillsides  of  middle 
California.  Singly,  this  plant  is  not 
showy,  but  sown  in  a  mass  it  is 
wonderfully  effective. 
T,;^)  are  charming  spring  flowers.  There  are 
three  or  four  species  in  California.  The  plant  is  also  called  "  mosquito  bills," 
"wild   C3^clamen,"    "mad   violets,"   "prairie-pointers,"   " pickler-bills, "  and 


Wintergreen  and  Indian  pipe 

Shooting    stars    (page 


Wild  Gardens 


295 


"  roosters'  heads,  "  the  latter  name  appHed  by  boys  with  fighting  propensities, 
who  gather  two  stems,  hook  the  flowers  together,  and  pull  to  see  which  head 
will  come  off  first.  The  most 
beautiful  species  of  them  all  is 
Cleveland's  shooting  star  {Dode- 
catJieon  Clevelandi),  from  southern 
California,  blossoming  'in  the  early 
springtime,  even  before  the  baby 
blue-eyes  are  awake.  It  sends  up  a 
tall  shaft,  crowned  with  a  large 
cluster  of  beautiful  blossoms,  vary- 
ing from  a  delicate  lilac  to  pure 
white.  The  petals  are  ringed  below 
with  pale  yellow,  and  the  beak  of  the 
flower  is  a  rich  prune-purple.  There 
is  a  generous,  fine  look  about  these 
flowers,  although  they  are  exquisitely 
delicate.  Their  charm  is  completed 
by  delicious  perfume,  like  that  of 
the  cultivated  cyclamen. 

Shooting  stars  are  perennial, 
tuberous-rooted  plants,  not  difficult 
of  cultivation  if  properly  managed. 
They  can  be  grown  in  pots,  like  the 
cyclamen,  and  dried  off' when  the  seeds 
mature  and  the  leaves  wither.  They 
should  then  be  kept  dry  until  late  in 
the  following  fall,  when  they  may  be 
gently  watered  and  placed  near  the 
light  if  they  are  to  be  flowered  in  the 
house,  or  placed  outside  in  the  spring, 
care  being  taken  not  to  allow  them 
too  much  water.  They  should  be 
protected  from  mice   while  dormant. 

The  beautiful  prickly  phlox,  Gtlia  Californica,  is  a  bushy  perennial 
plant  with  densely  fascicled  needle-like  leaves  and  masses  of  handsome  pink 
or  Hlac  flowers.     The  texture  of  the  petals  "is  of  the  finest  silk,  with  an 


Dalibarda  repens 


296 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


exquisite  sheen,"  and  the  blossoms  have  a  delicate  fragrance.  It  grows  on 
dry  hills,  or  on  the  plains  in  dry,  gravelly  washes  of  torrential  streams,  in 
southern  Cahfornia  and  northward  to  Monterey.  This  plant  has  a  peculiar 
charm  for  the  traveller,  because  it  produces  such  bright  masses  of  colour 
among  the  cacti  and  boulders  of  the  most  desolate  "  washes,"  so  characteristic 


The  lemon-lily  (not  an  American  plan;)  along  u  driveway 

of  those  semi-arid  regions  with  torrential  rains,  where  there  is  not  enough 
natural  verdure  to  check  the  rushing  off  of  the  waters.  And  it  charms  one 
by  its  generosity  in  blooming  so  late  in  the  summer  season,  when  the  hills 
have  exchanged  the  greenness  of  their  winter  costume  for  the  sere  brownness 
of  the  summer,  which  is  our  dormant  season,  when  the  roads  are  thick  with 
dust,  and  when  few  other  wild  flowers  are  to  be  seen. 


Wild  Gardens  297 

The  annual  and  perennial  herbs,  though  the  most  noticeable,  are  not 
the  only  plants  of  California  which  produce  beautiful  flowers.  We  have 
gorgeous  masses  of  pink  rhododendron  and  cream-and-yellow  azalea  in 
springy  places  on  mountainsides;  the  deep  magenta  chaparral-pea  forms 
dense,  tangled,  ir  ipenetrable  thickets  of  spiny  shrubs  on  the  dryer  and  more 
exposed  ridges  of  the  same  mountains,  intermixed  with  the  white  tresses  of 
the  chamisal  and  the  delicate  pink  or  white  waxen  bells  of  the  manzanita ; 
elsewhere  we  find  the  glorious  white  halos  of  the  Matilija  poppy,  the  stately 
cream-coloured  spikes  of  the  yuccas,  and  dozens  of  other  ornamental  shrubs, 
too  numerous  to  mention  here,  which  would  grace  any  garden.  Our  orna- 
mental flowering  trees  are  few,  but  the  creamy  trusses  of  Madroha  blossoms, 
succeeded  by  bright  scarlet  berries,  and  the  white  candelabras  of  the 
California  buckeye,  are  worthy  a  place  in  any  garden.  Among  the  shrubs, 
none  are  greater  favourites  or  more  characteristic  of  California  than  the 
blue -tinted  ceanothus,  or  California  lilac.  It  grows  on  arid,  shaly  slopes 
of  the  mountains  near  the  ocean,  where  it  can  catch  a  whiff  of  salt-laden 
air,  and  seems  to  reflect  some  of  the  blueness  of  the  water  in  its  masses  of 
blossoms.  Often  it  forms  the  prevailing  shrub  over  areas  of  hillside  many 
acres  in  extent,  to  which  it  gives  a  quiet  and  hazy  china-blue  tint. 
California  lilac  was  cultivated  in  the  gardens  of  the  early  settlers  in  San 
Francisco  until  replaced  by  exotics,  often  much  less  worthy  of  a  place  there; 
it  is  now  rarely  seen  in  cultivation  in  the  West,  though  sometimes  grown  in 
English  gardens.  The  odour  of  the  flowers  is  peculiar  and  not  altogether 
pleasant,  but  recalls  many  a  joyous  California  mountain-climb  to  one  who 
has  imbibed  a  deep  love  for  her  solitudes. 


CHAPTER   XVIII.     ROSES 

I.     Where  Shall  We  Plant  Roses  ? 

By   L.   H.    Bailey 


HAT  depends  on  what  you  want  them  for.  If  you  want  them 
primarily  for  fine  flowers,  plant  them  in  an  area  by  them- 
selves, where  they  can  have  good  care.  Roses  are  highly 
bred  plants.  They  cannot  shift  for  themselves  and  yet 
maintain  all  their  superlative  excellences,  any  more  than 
potatoes  or  blackberries  can.  Thrust  into  the  shrubbery,  they  suffer  in 
the  corn-petition.  The  flowers  deteriorate;  the  bushes  dwindle  and  die. 
Roses  need  special  treatment  and  care.      They  are  flower-garden  subjects. 

If  one  wants  a  good  mass  of  shrubbery,  he  must  choose  plants  that  are 
vigorous,  hardy,  verdurous,  and  able  in  large  measure  to  care  for  themselves. 
The  common  named  garden  roses  do  not  belong  to  this  class  of  shrubs. 
They  are  not  verdurous.  Their  foliage  is  scant,  not  adapted  to  mass  efi:ects, 
and  very  liable  to  insect  and  fungous  attacks.  Highly  bred  roses  should  not 
be  mixed  in  the  general  border. 

To  all  these  remarks  there  are  exceptions.  Some  of  the  single  and 
wild  roses  are  well  adapted  to  shrubbery  masses.  This  is  particularly  true 
of  the  East  Asian  Rosa  riigosa  (page  317),  which  is  hardy,  has  an  attractive 
habit,  strong  and  picturesque  canes,  abundant  and  interesting  foliage, 
attractive  large  white  or  red  single  or  semi-double  flowers,  large  and  conspicu- 
ous fruits,  and  is  practically  free  from  insect  and  fungous  attacks.  This  rose 
has  character  as  a  shrub,  winter  and  summer. 

When  I  say  that  roses  should  be  planted  by  themselves,  I  do  not  mean 
that  they  should  be  set  in  the  lawn.  They  are  out  of  place  when  scattered 
over  the  yard.  They  mean  nothing  there.  One  cannot  cultivate  them. 
They  are  unsightly  when  tied  up  in  straw  for  the  winter.  Their  period  of 
attractiveness  is  short.  When  the  bloom  is  past  they  are  uninteresting. 
In  the  lawn,  the  plants  must  compete  with  the  grass.  They  suffer  from 
drought.     Being  scattered,  they  receive  only  occasional  attention. 

299 


300  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

If  you  are  fond  of  roses,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  make  a  regular  rose  garden 
at  the  side  or  rear  of  your  place,  in  the  spirit  that  you  would  make  a  straw- 
berry bed.  Choose  good  soil.  Till,  and  fertilise,  and  prune.  Work  for  a 
heavy  crop — a  crop  of  large  and  perfect  flowers. 

There  are  certain  kinds  of  roses  that  are  well  in  place  on  banks  and 
rough  borders  and  against  fences  and  gates.  These  are  usually  not  the 
highly  developed  named  sorts,  however. 

Crimson  Rambler  is  always  in  place  on  a  porch ;  one  is  shown  on  page  303. 
The  same  may  be  said  of  the  Baltimore  Belle  and  multiflora  types,  where 
they  are  hardy.  If  there  is  no  space  in  which  roses  can  be  separately  grown, 
the  plants  may  be  placed  alongside  other  shrubbery,  and  late-blooming 
herbs  may  be  massed  about  them  to  supply  foliage  and  to  fill  the  latter  part 
of  the  season. 

There  are  two  questions  to  ask  when  you  are  discussing  the  place  to  grow 
roses :  Are  they  to  be  grown  primarily  for  flowers  ?  Are  they  to  form  a 
structural  part  of  the  landscape  planting? 


II.     The  ]\Iodern  Tendency  in  Roses 
By   Leonard   Barron 

Notwithstanding  the  nominal  position  that  the  rose  has  held,  from 
time  immemorial,  as  the  "queen  of  flowers,"  it  is  not  to  be  gainsaid  that 
the  rose  as  a  garden  plant  has  been  relegated  of  late  years  to  a  secondary 
place.  It  has  been  overshadowed  by  the  very  laudable  desire  to  plant 
more  largely  of  native  trees  and  shrubs,  with  which  have  been  associated 
the  flowering  shrubs  of  Japan.  Unfortunately,  rose  plants  are  not  decorative 
bushes  of  themselves — at  least,  the  most  commonly  accepted  groups  are  not, 
and  in  order  to  devote  space  to  roses  a  decided  rose  enthusiasm  is  first  of  all 
needed.  A  rose  plant  must  be  looked  upon  only  as  a  means  to  an  end — 
glorious  roses-^and  the  more  this  object  is  kept  in  view  the  less  ornamental 
does  the  rose  plant  become.  This  is  due  to  the  hard  pruning  that  is  necessary 
if  you  would  have  the  best  blooms  on  the  hybrid  perpetuals,  which  are  the 
only  generally  reliable  kinds  for  the  average  garden. 

But  there  is  a  change  coming  over  the  scene.  Since  the  very  wide 
distribution  of  the  popular  Crimson  Rambler,  attention  has  been  directed 
to  the  possibilities  of  other  groups  of  roses  for  various  purposes.     The  avail- 


Roses 


303 


ability  of  climbing  roses  for  garden 
use  has  led  many  into  planting  this 
and  Wichuraiana,  and  hybrids  from 
them,  in  continually  increasing 
numbers.  A  few  progressive  horti- 
culturists have  seen  these  things,  and 
there  is  a  very  marked  tendency  now 
in  various  parts  of  the  country  to 
raise  up  a  new  race  of  roses  which 
will  fit  our  climatic  conditions  better 
than  the  French  races  upon  which 
dependence  has  been  placed,  and  to 
which  the  mind  naturally  turns 
whenever  the  rose  is  named.  The 
strong  sun  of  summer  and  the 
severe  trials  of  winter  make  the 
conditions  for  roses  in  America  very 
different  from  those  that  prevail  in 
England  and  in  France,  and  the  roses 
which  have  been  bred  to  meet  the 
requirements  of  those  countries  do 
not  always  find  things  most  comfort- 
able for  them  here.  Yet  for  a  long 
time  to  come  reliance  must  be  placed 
upon  such  varieties  of  European  origin 
as  are  found  best  fitted  to  survive. 

The  present  trouble  with  roses 
in  American  gardens  is  that  the 
bloom  falls  as  soon  as  it  is  developed, 
and  while  we  can  grow  fine  wood  and 
get  a  burst  of  bloom  that  is  marvellous, 
yet  it  is  all  over  in  a  day  or  two,  and 
the  season  of  the  rose  is  dead  in  its 
birth.  Therefore  is  the  present 
tendency  to  try  other  roses  for  other 
purposes  than  the  mere  blooms. 

There  are  hybridists  at  work  who 


Crimson  Rambler 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


>%:.     ^rt 


I 


S^CHE- 


Psyche,  a  climbing  rose 


are  endeavouring  to  blend  the 
roses  of  France  and  England  with 
some  of  our  native  species  in  the 
belief  that  from  the  introduction 
of  native  blood  they  will  obtain 
roses  which  will  stand  the 
climate  better.  May  their  efforts 
be  crowned  with  success !  The 
creation  of  a  sturdy  American 
race  will  more  surely  give  an 
impetus  to  rose-culture  than  will 
the  mere  multiplication  o  f 
forcing  varieties. 

That  the  rose  can  be  grown 
with  great  success  is  demon- 
strated each  year,  for  the  plant 
simply  insists  on  flowering 
profusely  in  the  face  of  all 
sorts  of  neglect.  What  we  need 
is  the  proper  adaptation  of 
varieties  or  races.  I  do  not  for 
a  moment  think  that  the  popular 
H.  P.  roses  of  to-day  will  be 
■I  driven  out  of  the  garden  of  the 
rose-lover,  nor  that  where  the 
H.  T.  varieties  can  be  induced  to 
Uve  on  (with  the  most  solicitous 


Roses 


307 


care),  that  any  new  races  will  oust  them  from  our  best  gardens.  No, 
indeed;  for  they  are  the  roses  of  sentiment  and  of  common  belief.  But 
in  remote  parts  of  the  country  where  a  rose  is  merely  a  rose,  the  demand 
for  varieties  that  will  last  in  flower  is  great,  and  when  such  can  be 
introduced  there  will  be  roses  everywhere.  The  rose  will  never  be  out  of 
fashion  or  favour,  and,  given  the  right  varieties,  the  demand  for  it 
will  increase. 

A  marked  feature  of  hardy  rose-growing  already  referred  to  is  in  the 
production  of  what  may  be  called  the  Rambler  hybrids — roses  that  make 
tremendous  growth  each  year  and  are  suitable  for  pillar  work.  Many  people 
want  rose-bowers  and  arbours,  to  which  purpose  these  hybrids  are,  of  course, 
well  suited.  They  are  hardy,  free-flowering,  and  of  rampant  growth,  and 
where  Wichuraiana  has  been  used  in  their  making,  have  foliage  that  is 
almost  evergreen  and  insect-proof.  I  look  to  this  class  as  the  basis  of  a 
fresh  stimulus  for  rose-growing  in  our  gardens. 

III.     Outdoor  Roses  for  the  South 
By  p.  J.   Berckmans 

Out  of  the  hundreds  of  roses  described  in  floral  catalogues,  it  is  some- 
times exceedingly  difficult  to  select  such  varieties  as  are  best  suited  for 
open-ground  growing  in  the  South.  The  trouble  is  that  a  large  majority 
of  the  varieties  of  tea-roses  are  of  such  weak  constitution  as  to  unfit  them 
for  the  above  purposes,  and  are  suitable  only  for  forcing  under  glass.  By 
the  indiscriminate  selection  of  new  roses  oft'ered  with  extravagant  descriptions, 
many  of  our  enthusiastic  amateur  rosarians  have  met  with  disappointment. 
Preference  should  be  given  to  old  favourites  which  have  withstood  the  test 
of  years  and  have  long  been  the  glory  of  Southern  gardens.  Scores  of  new- 
comers have  of  late  taken  their  places,  only  to  disappear  with  their  first 
season  of  growing,  if,  indeed,  they  grew  at  all. 

Years  ago,  before  the  forcing  of  roses  under  glass  had  stimulated  produc- 
tion of  varieties  intended  for  that  purpose,  the  originators  of  new  sorts 
looked  more  to  a  robust  constitution,  combined  with  a  profusion  of  bloom, 
perfection  of  shape,  and  lasting  colours,  than  to  the  characters  that  now 
constitute  the  up-to-date  forcing  rose.  Forcing  roses  require  the  utmost 
skill  and  careful  regulation  of  artificial  temperature  to  bring  out  their  wonder- 


3o8  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

ful  fine  points.  At  the  South  there  are  many  classes  or  tA^pes  of  roses  which 
grow  to  great  perfection,  but  cannot  withstand  the  cold  of  the  Northern 
winters.  There  is,  therefore,  a  greater  range  in  selecting  varieties  for 
special  purposes. 

The  tea-roses  will  doubtless  long  remain  the  favourite  class ;  but  in  plant- 
ing the  proper  sorts  the  amateur  must  not  be  misled  by  selecting  those  whose 
constitution  is  too  weak  to  stand  the  long  and  warm  southern  summers. 
We  cannot  expect  to  grow  in  open  ground  as  perfect  Brides,  Bridesmaids, 
Perles,  etc.,  as  are  grown  under  glass,  but  we  still  have  our  Gloire  de  Dijon, 
Madame  Camille,  Devoniensis,  ]\Iarechal  Niel,  Souvenir  de  la  Malmaison,  Marie 
Van  Houtte,  and  scores  of  others  that  have  survived  hundreds  of  newer 
sorts,  and  bid  fair  to  survive  for  many  years  hence.  The  climbing  Noisette 
roses  frequently  grow  to  enormous  size,  and  are  noted  for  the  profusion 
and  length  of  blooming.  In  the  Hybrid  Perpetual  class  are  found  the  most 
perfect  forms,  the  short-jointed  sorts  being  as  a  rule  those  that  bloom  during 
the  longest  part  of  the  growing  season.  i\mong  some  of  these  varieties, 
as  also  in  the  Hvbrid  Tea  section  which  produces  the  most  exquisite  flowers, 
are  many  which  are  afTected  with  what  is  termed  "die  back,"  which  is  often 
followed  by  the  loss  of  the  plant.  Among  these  are  La  France,  American 
Beauty,  Caroline  Testout,  and  a  few  others.  Polyantha  roses  give  excellent 
results,  and  seem  to  adapt  themselves  to  most  soils. 

Again,  among  the  newer  tea-roses  there  is  a  deficiency  in  their  root 
system  which  causes  a  weak  constitution.  While  this  defect  is  less  apparent 
when  such  plants  are  grown  under  glass,  it  becomes  more  serious  when 
planted  in  open  ground.  Such  varieties  may,  however,  receive  increased 
vigour  if  they  are  budded  upon  strong-growing  stocks,  and  after  trying  many 
of  the  species  used  for  that  purpose  by  European  growers,  the  Manetti  has 
been  found  the  most  desirable.  ]\Iany  of  our  best  tea  and  hybrid  perpetuals 
would  long  since  have  disappeared  from  cultivation  had  it  not  been  for  the 
Manetti  stock,  which  is  in  extensive  use. 

As  a  guide  for  prospective  rose-planters  at  the  South,  the  following 
lists  are  suggested  as  likely  to  prove  the  most  successful : 

ox    OWN    ROOTS 

Tea — Bon  Silene,  Bride,  Bridesmaid,  Caroline  Kuster,  Comtesse  de 
Breteuil,  Christine  de  Noue,  Coquette  de  Lyon,  Duchesse  de  Brabant,  Etoile 
de  Lyon,  Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria,  Maman  Cochet,  Marie  Guillot,  Madame 


Roses  311 

Camille,  ]\Ime.  Abel  Chatenay,  Francisca  Kruger,  Mme.  Honore  Defresne, 
Meteor,   Vicomtesse  de  Wautiers,   Safrano,   Zelia    Pradel. 

Bourbon — Glory  of  France,  Imperatrice  Eugenie,  Princess  Imperial 
Victoria,  Souvenir  de  la  Malmaison. 

Hybrid  Perpetnals — A.  K.  Williams,  Anne  de  Diesbach,  Eugene  Furst, 
Earl  of  Dufferm,  Alfred  Colomb,  Coquette  des  Alpes,  General  Jacqueminot,, 
Gloire  Lyonnaise,  Jean  Liabaud,  ]\Ime.  Moreau,  Mme.  Gabriel  Luizet,  Magna 
Charta,  Paul  Neyron,  Pierre  Nottmg,  Paeonia,  General  Washington,  Perle 
des  Blanches,  Prince  Camille  de  Rohan,  Rev.  J.  B.  M.  Camm,  Ornement 
des  Jardins. 

China — Archiduc  Charles,  ]\Iadame  Carl,  Mme.  Jean  Sisley. 

Polyantha — Cecile  Brunner,  Clothilde  Soupert,  Marie  Favie,  Perle  d'Or, 
Mozella,  Climbing  Clothilde  Soupert. 

Noisette  and  Climbing — Devoniensis,  Elie  Beauvilain,  Reine  Marie 
Henriette,  Reve  d'Or,  Solfaterre,  Lamarque. 

BUDDED    UPON    MANETTI 

Banksia — White  and  Yellow. 

Tea  and  Hybrid  Tea  and  N oisettes  —Qsi^isan  Christy,  La  France,  Caroline 
Testout,  Perle  des  Jardins,  Angelique  Veyisset,  Chromatella,  Marechal  Niel, 
Niphetos,  Emily  Dupuy,  Madame  de  Watteville. 

Hybrid  Perpetnals— American  Beauty,  Baronne  de  Rothschild,  Doctor 
Henon,  Frere  Marie  Pierre,  Frangois  Michelon,  Mabel  Morrison. 


IV.     Hardy  Roses  Near  Chicago 
By  W.  C.   EgaxN 

The  vicinity  of  Chicago,  especially  that  of  the  bluff  lands  to  the  north 
and  lying  close  to  the  lake,  is  not  an  ideal  home  for  roses,  but  with  a  proper 
selection  of  varieties  and  a  suitable  winter  protection  they  may  be  grown 
quite  successfully.  The  following  so-called  hybrid  perpetnals  have  proved 
the  most  reliable  with  me : 

Carmine,  Crimson  and  Red  — Prince  Camille  de  Rohan,  General  Jacque- 
minot, La  Rosiere,  Captain  Hayward,  Anne  de  Diesbach,  Alfred  Colomb, 
Countess  of  Oxford,  Ulrich  Brunner,  Marshall  P.  Wilder,  Louis  Van  Houtte, 
Mme.  Victor  Verdier,  Pierre  Notting,  Eugene  Furst,  Paeonia. 


312 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


Pink  and  Rosc—^l^gnSi  Charta,  Mrs.  R.  G.  Sharman-Crawford,  Captain 
Christy,  Garden  Favourite,  Paul  Neyron,  John  Hopper,  Baronne  Prevost, 
Prince  of  Wales,  Lyonnaise,  Mile.  Suzanna  de  Rodocanachi. 

White  and  Blush  — ^Irs.  Paul,  Perle  des  Blanches,  Madame  Plantier, 
Hybrid  China. 

The  following  additional  ones  are  quoted  as  doing  well  on  the  "Wooded 
Island"  at  Jackson  Park,  Chicago,  wdiere  the  elevation  above  the  lake  's 
some  eighty  feet  lower  than  here  at  Egandale :  Duchess  de  Morny,  CaroHne 
de  Arden,  Bell  Normandie,  Comtesse  de  Serenye,  La  France,  G.  M.  Maurande, 
Baroness  Rothschild,  Earl  of  Dufferin,  Jean  Liabaud. 

I  cannot  handle  La  France, 
for  the  buds  brown  in  the  sun, 
nor  Mrs.  John  Laing,  which,  with 
Jeannie  Dickinson,  is  tender  at 
Jackson  Park. 

Nearly  all  of  the  moss-roses  do 

fairly  well  here,  including  the  new 

remontant     forms.       Hermosa, 

Clothilde    Soupert,    and   many   of 

the    so-called    dwarf    fairy    roses, 

especially      the      exquisite      Mile. 

Cecile   Brunner,  come  through  the 

winter  well   when   protected,    and 

bloom    all    summer.     About  all  of  the  hybrid   tea  bedding    roses    require 

removal    to    a    coldframe  in  the  fall,  or  a  sash  and  frame  placed  over  them 

for  the  winter. 

The  hardiest  climbing  garden  rose  is  the  Prairie  Queen,  but  it  blooms 
much  better  if  slightly  protected  from  the  sun's  rays  during  the  winter. 
The  following  climbing  roses  have  proved  valuable  under  winter  protection : 
Crimson  Rambler,  Seven  Sisters,  Dundee  Rambler,  the  Daw^son,  Thalia, 
Euphrosyne,  Paul's  Carmine  Pillar,  Reine  Henriette  ^larie,  and  Wichuraiana 
and  its  hybrids. 

Nearly  all  of  the  hybrids  of  R.  riigosa  are  hardy  without  protection, 
the  lovely  ]\Irs.  Bruant,  with  its  tea  blood,  being  an  exception.  Jackson 
Dawson's  hybrid  rugosas,  "The  Arnold"  and  "W.  C.  Egan, "  have  done 
exceptionally  well.  Lord  Penzance's  hybrid  sweetbriers  require  protection, 
and  some  even  then  go  back.      A  set  that  I  have  growing  against  a  north 


Rosa  Spinosissima  var.  Altaica 


A  good  pillar  rose.     Climbing  General  Jacquemi 


Roses 


315 


wall,  protected  in  winter  by  a  single  thickness  of  burlap,  does  the  best.  The 
Harrison  and  Persian  Yellow  do  fairly  well  without  protection.  The  following 
thrive  unprotected:  R.  riigosa,  R.  mollis,  var.  poniifera,  R.  spinosissima, 
var.  Altaica  (a  lovely  single  white,  resembling  the  Cherokee  rose),  R.  nitida, 
var.  alba,  R.  riihrifolia  (R.  ferruginea),  and  the  sweetbriers. 

The  following  are  well  adapted  to  wild  gardening,  and  are  native  to  this 
section:     R.  setigera,  R.  Engelmanni,  R.  blanda,  R.  Carolina,  and  R.  humilis. 


Pruning    Roses 


By   B.  M.   Watson 


In  Bailey's  "Cyclopedia  of  American  Horticulture"  some  fifty  species 
of  roses  are  enumerated  as  common  in  cultivation.  From  these  species 
innumerable  varieties  have  sprung.  It  seems  impossible,  in  a  genus  so 
diversified,  to  give  any  general  rules  for  pruning,  but  by  classifying  roses  by 
their  habits  of  growth  it  is  hoped  that  some  help 
may  be  gi\'en  the  inexperienced  grower.  It  is 
assumed  in  what  follows  that  the  plants  are  well 
cultivated  and  have  plenty  of  nourishment. 

I.  Hybrid  perpetuals,  hybrid  teas,  Provence 
and  moss  roses  are  best  grown  as  bushy  plants. 
They  should  be  severely  cut  back  while  dormant 
in  spring,  but  never  in  summer  or  early  autumn,  as 
is  sometimes  done  because  they  are  straggling  and 
look  unkempt  in  an  otherwise  neat  garden.  From 
two-thirds  to  four-fifths  of  last  year's  wood,  and  all 
weak  shoots,  are  removed.  This  results  in  strong 
growths,  producing  large  fiow^ers,  the  size  of  which 
can  be  increased  by  disbudding.  If  numerous 
smaller  flowers  are  desired — i.  e.,  quantity  at  the 
expense  of  quality — the  shortening-in  need  not  be 
carried  so  far.  It  is  permissible  to  cut  back  only 
one-half,     but     this     treatment     is     objectionable, 

and  does  not  tend  to  keep  the  plants  in  good  condition.  This  winter 
pruning  should  be  supplemented  by  a  summer  pruning,  which  consists 
of    simply    cutting    out    the     flowering     shoots     after     the    flowers    fade. 


Hybrid  perpetual  rose  before  prun- 
ing.     (General  Jacqueminot) 


3i6 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


Crimson  Rambler  before  pruning 


It  is  already  done  if  all  the  blooms  have  been  gathered.  Remove  weak 
growths  and  all  sprouts  from  the  stock  as  they  appear.  As  the  plants  age, 
worn-out  stems  must  be  taken  out  and  the  center 
left  open  to  encourage  new  shoots.  Some  of  these 
roses  are  short-lived  and  must  eventually  be 
replaced.  Hybrid  perpetual  roses  of  weak  habit 
— c.  g.,  Prince  Camille  de  Rohan — should  be  cut 
back  harder  than  vigorous  growers  like  General 
Jacqueminot,  but  only  when  in  good  health. 
Hybrid  teas  as  a  rule  require  the  most  severe 
pruning;    moss  and  Provence  roses  least. 

2.  Climbing  roses — the  Dawson,  Baltimore 
Belle,  Prairie  Queen,  Crimson  Ramblers,  and 
others — need  not  be  pruned  so  hard  as  those  above  described.  Cut  off  in 
spring,  before  the  buds  open,  from  one-fifth  to  one-third  of  the  previous 
year's  growth ;  also,  in  established  plants,  any  of  the  old,  flowering  wood 
which  is  enfeebled.  Do  not  hesitate,  even  if  a  part  of  the  trellis  is  laid 
bare.  It  is  by  this  means  only  that  these  plants  can  be  kept  vigorous.  In 
summer  take  out  most  of  the  old  wood  after  it  is  done  flowering, 
and  train  new  growths  as  desired,  pinching  out  weak  and  objec- 
tionable shoots. 

Half -climbing  roses,  like  the  Japanese  Rosa  umlti  flora  (R. 
polyantha)  and  its  varieties,  the  sweetbriers,  R.  setigera,  the  type 
and  the  dog  rose,  are  commonly  grown  as  bushes  and  pruned  as 
above  described,  more  attention  being  paid  to  cutting  out  worn- 
out  stems  and  keeping  the  centers  open;  but  the 
flowering  wood  must  not  be  removed  after  bloom- 
ing where  fruit  is  desired  in  winter. 

Trailing  roses  {R.  Wichuraiana  and  its  varieties) 
require  comparatively  little  pruning,  particularly 
in  the  North,  where  unfavourable  seasons  are  apt 
to  kill  some  of  the  wood.  By  taking  out  dead 
branches  and  cutting  back  enough  to  restore  the 
balance  opportunity  is  given  for  new  growths  which  are 
essential  to  keep  them  in  good  condition.  Half -climbing  hybrids  of  this  rose— 
e.  g.,  Mr.  Walsh's  Sweetheart,  Debutante,  etc.,  and  the  old  Ayrshire  roses— i?. 
arvensis  {R.  repens)  and  their  varieties — are  pruned  in  much  the  same  way. 


Crimson  Rambler  pruned  (scale 
somewhat  larger) 


Rosa  rugosa,  one  of  the  best  roses  for  the  shrubbery 


Ros( 


319 


The  Persian  Yellow  rose,  Harrison's  Yellow,  and  Austrian  Brier  are  not 
strong  growers.  One  must  be  cautious  with  the  knife,  cutting  out  the 
flowering  wood  after  the  blooms  fade.  In  established  plants  the  worn-out 
stems  can  be  removed  at  any  time.  Scotch  roses  can  be  treated  in  the  same 
way,  and  are  much  benefited  by  being  cut  clean  to  the  ground  once  in  about 
seven  years.  Their  habit  of  spreading  by  underground  stems  helps  the 
recovery. 

3.  Wild  roses,  R.  blanda,  Carolina,  liicida,  nitida,  etc.,  are  grown  not 
only  for  the  flowers,  but  for  bright  twigs  and  hips,  in  winter.  Consequently 
much  depends  upon  sturdy  growth.  They  are  frequently  planted  in  such 
quantity  that  careful  pruning  is  impossible.  Take  out  the  older  wood 
from  time  to  time,  and  at  intervals  of  several  years,  determined  by  their 
condition,  cut  clean  to  the  ground,  at  the  same  time  giving  manure  and 
stirring  the  soil.  An  equally  good  method  of  renewal  is  to  dig  up  and 
reset  the  plants,  discarding  the  old  and  feeble. 

Rosa  rugosa  and  its  variety  alba  do  not  require  annual  pruning,  unless 
it  be  a  little  shortening-in  of  the  tips — an  interminable  operation.  After 
these  plants  are  well  established,  however,  the  older  canes  should  be  cut 
out  occasionally,  thus  keeping  the  center  free  and  encouraging  new  growths. 
If  at  any  time  they  are  in  bad  shape  from  winter-killing  or  disease,  they  can 
be  cut  to  the  ground.  Hybrids  of  Rosa  rugosa,  like  Madame  Bruant,  are 
helped  by  spring  pruning,  cutting  back  the  annual  growths,  and  thinning 
out  old  wood. 

4.  Tender  roses,  like  the  teas.  Chinas,  Bengals,  and  Bourbons,  should 
be  cut  in  at  the  beginning  of  the  flowering  season,  and,  since  they  are  really 
perpetual  bloomers,  this  process  must  be  continued  as  long  as  the  season 
lasts.  Weak  and  unproductive  shoots  must  be  removed.  Cloth  of  Gold, 
Lamarque,  Marechal  Niel,  and  other  roses  of  like  habit,  are  closely  pruned 
after  their  wood  is  well  ripened,  when  they  are  most  at  rest.  Under  glass, 
this  is  usually  done  just  before  starting  them  into  growth.  To  bloom  the 
Cherokee  rose  in  a  cool  greenhouse  in  January  and  February,  four-fifths  of 
the  summer's  growth  must  be  cut  away  in  October.  Worn-out  canes  can 
be  removed  at  any  time.  The  double-flowered  varieties  of  R.  Bauksia; 
are  severely  cut  back  after  the  blooms  have  faded,  in  May  or  June,  in  a 
cool  house. 

Many  methods  are  employed  in  propagating  roses,  but  the  practice  here 
described  is  simple  and  effective.    Cuttings  can  be  rooted  in  the  garden  or  in 


320  How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 

the  greenhouse.  For  out-of-door  work  they  should  be  made  in  November, 
before  severe  frost,  of  wood  of  the  current  year's  growth.  They  should  be 
cut  into  lengths  of  six  inches,  tied  nito  bundles  w4th  tarred  rope,  and  buried 
eighteen  inches  deep  in  sandy  soil,  and  furthermore  protected  from  freezing 
by  a  covering  of  leaves.  In  spring,  when  the  ground  is  thawed  and  settled, 
they  should  be  planted  in  V-shaped  trenches  m  well-prepared  beds,  using 
a  little  rotted  barnyard  manure.  The  cuttings  should  stand  nearly  erect, 
and  be  so  deeply  planted  that  only  one  bud  shows  above  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  two  inches  apart  in  the  row,  with  the  rows  twelve  inches  apart. 
In  this  way  many  desirable  hardy  roses  can  be  multiplied — e.  g.,  Crimson 
and  Yellow  Ramblers,  the  Dawson  Rose,  Rosa  miiltiflora,  R.  Wichuraiana, 
and  all  their  other  progeny,  R.  setigera,  Prairie  Queen,  and  Baltimore  Belle, 
etc.,  also  the  ^lanetti  rose  for  stock.  Under  glass,  these  same  varieties  will 
give  a  larger  percentage  of  rooted  plants  if  the  cuttings  are  made  two  or 
three  inches  long,  planted  in  pure  sand  in  pots  or  boxes,  and  kept  in  a  green- 
house, 45°  F.  These  cuttings,  also,  should  be  made  in  autumn,  before  severe 
weather,  of  wood  just  completing  its  growth.  They  should  be  planted 
thickly,  about  one-half  their  length  deep,  and  well  shaded  for  three  weeks. 
Keep  the  temperature  so  low  that  the  buds  will  not  start  into  growth  before 
the  cutting  is  rooted.  The  young  plants  can  be  set  out  m  May,  either  directly 
from  the  cutting-bed  or  after  having  been  established  in  pots. 


VI.     A    Rose    Bank 

By  W.   H.   Sargent 

Concealing  an  unsightly  bank  by  transforming  it  into  a  rose  garden 

accomplishes  several  desirable  objects.     It  "makes 

-xiu    mw>um'--     tlic  wastc  places  to  blossom  as  the  rose,"  and  also 

Rose  bush --->S^    y*^™'™;  ;'.•■:.■■ 

,,^^/  V'"'"       affords  the  plants  abundant  light,   air,  and  room, 

Turf-  IS, ^  ^vl^icj^  lY^Qy  ^Q   j^Q^  always  get  if  planted  in  beds 

3/  /  --Sand  where  room  is  of  more  value. 

Ig^l.Heavygardensoii  Pockcts   should   bc   dug   iuto   thc   sidc  of  the 

bank   and    the    turf    brought    forward   and   shaped 

into  basins,  as  shown  in  the  sketch.     In   this  way 

all    the    wash    from    the    bank  will    be    collected 


Roses 


321 


around  the  roots.  Climbing  roses  do  particularly  well  if  kept  a  little 
off  the  ground  In  the  North,  where  the  winters  are  particularly  severe, 
the  bushes  should  be  pinned  back  against  the  bank  and  covered  with 
brush  or  leaves. 


CHAPTER   XIX.     HOW  I  BUILT  MY  COUNTRY  HOME 

A  Concrete  Example  of  Landscape  Gardening 

By  W.  C.  Egan 

AM  garden-bred,  for  in  the  early  fifties  my  father's  garden 
was  one  of  the  show -places  in  Chicago ;  but  I  have  no  recol- 
lection of  a  fondness  for  gardening  during  my  youth.  A 
strenuous  business  life  of  more  than  thirty-five  years  in  that 
bustling  city  so  impaired  my  health  that  my  physician 
prescribed  a  retirement  and  enjoined  a  life  in  the  open  air.  Being 
happily  anchored  by  a  growing  family,  a  roving,  open-air  life  was  out  of  the 
question.  How  was  I  to  occupy  my  mind,  hitherto  in  constant  activity,  and 
still  remain  in  one  place  ?  I  did  not  have  to  consider  long.  The  subtle 
influence  of  the  garden  of  my  youth — so  long  dormant — asserted  itself, 
and  an  ever-increasing  love  for  shrub  and  flower  and  arboreal  life  seemed 
to  say  to  me:  "Why  not  build  and  maintain  a  country  home — one  of  your 
own  creation — exhibiting  your  own  individuality?  Why  not  make  it  yoitr 
garden,  not  a  gardener's  garden?" 

The  die  was  cast  and  a  hunt  for  the  site  began.  The  towering  bluffs  and 
wooded  ravines  bordering  Lake  Michigan  north  of  Chicago  afforded  abundant 
opportunities  for  selection,  and  a  view  of  the  lake  over  the  wavering  foliage 
of  the  ravine  tree-tops  caused  the  selection  of  a  site  for  the  future  "  Egandale." 
The  natural  beauties  of  the  site  were  further  enhanced  by  a  wooded  ravine 
constituting  two-thirds  of  the  boundary  lines,  whose  trees  afford  a  massive 
bank  of  foliage  which  is  ever  refreshing  to  the  eye. 

All  this  happened  fifteen  years  ago.  I  had  the  place,  but  no  knowledge 
of  how  to  develop  it.  Flowers,  shrubs  and  trees  did  not  grow  among  my 
business  affairs.  Nevertheless,  I  was  determined  that  the  place  should  be  of 
my  own  creation,  and  so  I  resolved  to  go  ahead  and  make  my  own  mistakes 
in  my  own  way.     And  I  made  three  important  ones. 

A  dense  undergrowth  confronted  me.  The  woodman  had  discovered 
my  prize  years  prior  and  had  appropriated  every  tree  on  the  main  land 
large   enough   to   convert  into   cord -wood.     Of  ancestral   trees  there  were 

323 


324 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


^^H^^^^^^HK^^v^i>j^^^j^H 

The  house  as  it  looked  in   1891.     Note  the  useless  trees  in  the  front  yard  and  the  awkward  curve  in  the  driveway 


The  house  in   1900,  showing  improvement  in  front  lawn  by  the  massing  of  shrubbery 


How  I  Built  a  Country  Home  325 

none;  but  my  knowledge  of  them,  being  confined  to  hearsay,  caused  me  to 
imagine  every  long-shanked  oak  that  grew  from  a  decapitated  stump  capable 
of  bemg  converted  into  one.  I  considered  that  a  plethora  of  ancestral  oaks 
would  be  the  crowning  glory  of  a  lawn,  so  I  left  any  towering  tree  that 
possessed  a  head. 

My  next  mistake  was  in  road-making.  In  laying  out  my  entrance 
roadway  I  substituted  an  uncouth  curve  for  a  graceful  one  to  save  a  worth- 
less oak  that  happily  died  about  the  time  I  discovered  my  error. 

In  the  third  place,  I  wanted  a  rockery,  and  wanted  it  where  all  could 
see  it;  so  I  placed  it  near  the  center  of  the  lawn.  Men,  teams  and  a 
derrick  were  engaged,  and  soon  boulders,  gathered  nearby,  were  piled  up, 
one  upon  another,  and  a  circular  rim  eight  feet  in  diameter  and  six  feet 
high  was  erected  and  filled  with  soil.  It  was  fearfully  and  wonderfully 
made,  and  looked  it — not  then,  however,  for  I  thought  it  a  thing  of  beauty 
that  would  last  forever.  I  grew  flowers  on  top,  but  neglected  to  furnish  a 
step-ladder  that  they  might  be  seen. 

I  soon  grew  tired  of  the  stork-like  trees,  that  seemed  to  make  no  head- 
way, and  they  were  grubbed  out.  I  bought  exotics  from  nurserymen  and 
planted  them  here  and  there  until  my  lawn  was  littered  up  worse  than 
ever.  ]\Iy  man  got  dizzy  dodging  them  with  the  lawnmower.  I  was  not 
satisfied.  Something  seemed  wrong.  The  place  had  an  unfinished  look. 
I  was  regaining  my  health,  had  open-air  exercise,  but  there  was  a  screw 
loose  somewhere. 

What  little  reading  I  had  done  in  the  horticultural  line  had  educated 
me  faster  than  I  had  improved  the  place.  Fortunately  I  came  across  a  copy 
of  the  America}!  Garden,  edited  in  those  days  by  a  certain  professor  now 
at  Cornell  University.  In  a  leading  article  on  landscape  gardening,  this 
man  advocated  an  open  center  and  massing  at  the  boundaries.  Here  was 
an  inkling  of  the  cause  of  my  dissatisfaction.  I  had  not  opened  or  massed 
anywhere.     I  had  cluttered. 

When  spring  came  there  was  an  upheaval.  The  lawn  was  opened  up 
and  plantings  made  in  groups  at  the  sides.  My  lawn  seemed  to  have  doubled 
in  size.  Heretofore  the  mind  was  confused  when  looking  down  the  grounds. 
Now  there  was  a  peaceful  quietness  as  the  eye  glanced  along  the  unbroken 
greensward  to  the  bordering  mass  of  leafy  trees. 

The  rockery  had  become  a  scarecrow.  Even  the  wild  geese  in  their 
migratory  flights  steered  to  the  right  or  left  of  it.     I  took  a  lot  of  pleasure 


326 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


in  demolishing  it.  A  spur  of  the  ravine  ran  into  the  lawn  a  hundred  feet 
or  so,  dividing  the  southern  end  into  two  deep  bays.  I  reasoned  that  the 
same  forces  that  made  the  spur  might  have  deposited  some  rocks  at  its  head ; 
and  I  recalled  an  outcrop  I  had  seen  on  the  side  of  a  hill  in  California,  where 
Nature  supplied  the  rocks  and  the  birds  the  plants.  So  I  placed  some  rocks 
in  this  spot  and  endeavoured  to  imitate  it. 

Up  to  this  point  I  had  practically  lost  four  years  of  precious  time.  But 
now  a  new  era  began.  The  experience,  however,  had  been  worth  a  great 
deal.  It  enabled  me  to  warn  my  friends  against  the  errors  with  which  I 
Jiad  struggled. 

In  mv  later  plantings  I  had  combined  the  hardy  perennials  with  the 
shrubs,  planting  the  former  in  masses,  and  not  repeating  the  same  perennial 
at  any  one  point  of  view.  Each  shrubbery  bed  is  so  planted  that  some  part 
of  it  is  in  bloom  from  early  spring  until  frost. 

The  wooded  ravines  have  been  left  to  Nature's  care.  Wandering  up 
and  down  the  bank  is  prohibited  except  where  walks  are  provided,  as  the 


Side  yard  in   1902,  looking  toward  the  house 


How  I  Built  My  Country  Home 


327 


denizens  of  the  wood  resent  too  much  famiharity.  I  found  ferns,  trilHums, 
hepaticas  or  a  few  moccasin  flowers  in  my  own  woods,  and  more  from  the 
neighbouring  ravines  have  been  added,  until  groups  and  colonies  abound. 


A  view  of  the  lake  caused  the  selection  of  the  site 

These  native  plants  thrill  the  heart  with  delight  when  spring's  first  breath 
rouses  them  to  activity. 

Along  the  shrubbery  bank  bordering  the  roadway  to  the  stable,  masses 
of  squills,  snow-drops,  crocuses,  chionodoxas,  grape  hyacinths,  and  narcissi 
herald  a  season  of  delight,  while  above  them  follow,  in  bloom,  the  shad- 
bush,  the  May-Day  tree,  and  flowering  plums  and  cherries,  and  the  JMissouri 
currant  mingles  its  spicy  breath  with  the  scent  of  the  freshly  turned  soil, 
just  aroused  from  its  frozen  slumber.  All  these  are  but  the  advance-guard 
of  a  countless  throng  of  hardy  flowers  that  will  open  up  in  well-regulated 
succession,  until  the  stately  Anemone  Japonica  comes  to  fight  its  battle 
with  Jack  Frost. 

My  garden  is  open  to  all  who  will  love  and  appreciate  its  contents,  be 
they  from,  the  mansion  in  the  park  or  from  the  cottager's  home.  My  flowers 
bloom  not  for  me  alone,  but  for  those  of  kindred  tastes,  and  it  is  a  pleasure 
for  me  to  show  them.     ]\Iany  delightful  friends  have  thus  been  made. 

The  pleasures  of  gardening  are  infinite  and  varied.     One  need  not  delve 


328 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


in  the  mysteries  of  botanical  lore  ni  order  to  obtain  enjoyment  in  one's 
intimacy  with  plant  life.  It  is  best  to  look  upon  plants  as  garden  friends. 
The  hardy  forms  become  in  time  old-established  companions,  for  each 
spring  they  arise  from  their  slumber  and  greet  you  with  renewed  life.  They 
are  like  some  dear  friends  returned  from  a  distant  journey,  whose  presence 
we  have  missed. 

Not  the  least  of  garden  pleasures  is  the  exchange  of  surplus  plants  with 
those  of  kindred  tastes.     1  have  many  such  cherished  plants,  some  of  which 


The  side  yard  in  1890.    Worthless  trees  scattered  here  and  there.     No  view 


are  from  friends  whom  I  have  never  seen.  They  are  pleasant  reminders  of 
their  donors,  and,  under  more  constant  observation  than  a  photograph 
hidden  m  an  album,  they  fade  not,  neither  do  their  gowns  go  out  of  fashion. 
It  will  pay  the  intending  planter  to  give  careful  attention  to  companion 
cropping  with  ornamental  subjects,  so  that  there  will  be  a  successful  effect 
on  the  same  area,  or  that  the  defects  of  one  plant  may  be  remedied  or  covered 
by  the  excellences  of  another.  Such  a  case  is  pictured  on  page  30.  Here  are 
Lilium  siiperhtim  and  peonies.  The  peony  is  the  earlier  riser,  starting  sooner 
into  growth,  and  maturing  its  flowers  before  the  lily  has  shot  its  blooming  spike 
above  the  surrounding  foliage.  The  lily  is  thus  unseen  at  this  time,  and 
takes  no  part  m  the  floral  display;  but  soon  after  the  withered  peony  blooms 


How  I  Built  My  Country   Home  331 

have  been  cleared  away  the  tah  hly  spikes  emerge  from  the  mass  of  dark- 
green  foHage,  and,  rising  high  above  it,  form  their  candelabra  heads  of  coral- 
tinted  bells.  There  is  economy  in  this  method,  as  two  crops  of  bloom,  each 
differing  entirely  from  the  other,  are  produced  from  one  bed.  An  allied  lily, 
L.  Canadense,  found  on  the  drier  parts  of  the  meadow,  is  another  that  takes 
most  kindly  to  garden  life.  I  use  it  also  as  a  second-crop  flower,  and  to  give 
height  and  variety  to  the  border. 

I  grow  the  American  cowsHp,  or  shooting  star,  which  loses  its  foliage 
soon  after  blooming  in  the  spring.  Alternating  with  the  plants  are  Cam- 
panula Carpatica,  whose  spreading  foliage  carpets  the  ground  left  bare  by 
the  disappearing  dodecatheons.  Here  and  there  in  among  both  these  plants 
are  placed  the  Canadian  lilies,  producing  a  pleasing  combination.  Both 
of  these  lilies  may  be  gathered  from  our  prairies  when  in  bloom,  cutting 
their  stalks  back  to  within  a  foot  of  the  ground,  and  keeping  the  bulbs 
damp  while  exposed,  planting  them  where  wanted  at  once  or  in  temporary 
quarters  until  the  fall  months. 

There  are  many  beautiful  flowering  bulbs  and  plants  that  we  should 
all  grow  whose  foliage  ripens  off  and  disappears  soon  after  blooming.  They 
are  generally  of  a  character  requiring  planting  in  masses  to  be  effective,  and 
are  early  to  flower  and  vanish,  leaving  generous  spaces  of  vacant  ground 
until  the  next  spring,  adorned  only  by  a  monument  in  the  shape  of  the 
identifying  label.  This  label  is  essential  in  large  plantings,  for  without  it 
the  presence  of  dormant  bulbs  might  be  overlooked  and  damage  done  in 
careless  digging.  How  to  cover  these  bare  spaces  is  a  matter  of  importance 
to  those  who  desire  their  borders  to  look  neat  and  tidy.  I  plant  snow- 
drops, chionodoxas,  scillas,  crocus,  grape  hyacinths,  and  all  of  the  spring- 
blooming  class,  in  masses  under  widespreading  shrubs,  so  situated  that  the 
sun  will  reach  them  during  part  of  the  day. 

My  physician's  prescription  should  be  incorporated  in  the  materia 
medica  of  all  nations.  It  was  extremely  pleasant  to  take,  and  not  only 
restored  my  shattered  health,  but  was  the  means  of  awakening  in  me  a 
love  for  the  greatest  of  all  delights — one's  own  garden. 


APPENDIX  I 


FLOWERS   FOR   SPECIAL   PURPOSES 


Suggestive  lists  based  upon  the  colour  and 
season  of  bloom;  the  height  of  the  plant;  the 
kind  of  soil,  whether  light  or  heavy,  moist 
or  dry;  the  conditions  of  shade  or  sunshine; 
resistance  to  frost,  and  value  for  cut  flowers 
and  for  maintaining  an  uninterrupted  suc- 
cession of  bloom. 


By  M.  G.  KAINS 


EDITORIAL  NOTE. — The  following  lists  are  believed  to  be  fundamentally 
different  from  all  other  lists  of  similar  appearance.  The  great  fault  with  the  extended 
lists  found  in  some  expensive  works  on  gardening  is  that  they  contain  too  few  lists  and 
too  many  plants  in  each  list.  Moreover,  the  Latin  names  are  often  put  first  or  used 
to  the  exclusion  of  the  common  names.  The  result  is  that  such  lists  app'al  the  beginner 
and  are  never  used.  Those  which  follow  are  designed  to  be  of  every-day  practical 
service  to  beginner  and  expert.  The  writer  has  resolutely  turned  his  back  upon  the 
impossible  idea  of  absolute  completeness,  which  has  made  the  old  lists  so  repellant  and 
unpractical.  The  keynote  of  the  present  endeavour  is  suggestiveness.  Hence  there  are 
many  lists  and  few  plants  in  each  list.  This  must  be  the  right  principle.  Surely,  the 
average  person  does  not  need  fifty  or  a  hundred  plants  for  some  one  special  purpose. 
Four  may   be   enough;   six   should   be   ample;   ten  names  will  give  plenty  of  choice. 

The  net  result  of  the  old-time  extensive  list  is  to  impress  the  beginner  with  the 
immense  number  of  plants  in  cultivation.  But  such  an  idea  is  worse  than  useless, 
because  it  discourages  the  beginner.  According  to  the  "Cyclopedia  of  American  Horticulture," 
there  are  nearly  twenty-fiive  thousand  species  of  plants  cultivated  in  America.  But  what 
is  the  use  of  laying  emphasis  on  a  mere  cyclopedic  fact  of  such  a  character  ?  There 
is  another  idea  which  is  much  more  important,  viz.,  the  great  diversity  of  human  needs  and 
purposes  which  are  comprised  under  the  one  word  "floriculture."  Here  are  two 
hundred  lists  of  plants,  and  each  list  represents  a  distinct  idea.  There  are  at  least  two 
hundred  distinct  purposes  for  which  people  cultivate  plants.  The  differentiation  of  these 
purposes  must  have  its  educational  value.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  following  lists  will 
help  the  amateur  gardener  to  clear  up  his  ideas  and  determine  what  he  really  wants. 
The  author  has  a  wide  acquaintance  with  plants,  and  there  are  very  few  in  the  following 
lists  with  which  he  is  not  personally  acquainted.  A  good  many  duplicates  will 
be  found — e.g.,  the  pansy  appears  in  several  lists,  but  this  is  part  of  the  original  plan,  for 
the  best  plants  are  relatively  few  in  number,  and  it  is  better  to  suggest  common  and  easily 
grown  ones  for  the  various  purposes  to  which  they  are  adapted  than  rare  and  costly 
plants  of  doubtftil  suitability. 

SPECIAL  NOTICE 

Dates  of  blooming  are  based  upon  the  vicinity  of  New  York.  The  names  have  been  stand- 
ardised with  the  ''Cyclopedia  of  American  Hortictdture." 


APPENDIX     I 


ANNUALS    (See    Chapter    1) 

Ten  of  the  most  popular  annuals: 

Balsam.  Impatiens  Balsaiiiina. 

China   Aster,   C allistc p>Jins  liortensis. 

Marigold,   Tagetcs  spp. 

Mignonette,  Reseda  spp. 

Morning-glory,  I pomcca  purpurea. 

Nasturtitim,   Troparolnin  spp. 

Pansy,   Viola  tricolor. 

Petunia,  spp. 

Poppy,  Papavcr  spp. 

Verbena,   Verbena  spp. 
Ten  anntials  useful  as  cut  flowers: 

Alyssum,  Sweet,  Alyssn>u  maritimiim. 

Aster,  Callistephus  liortensis. 

Baby's  Breath,  Gypsophila  clcgans. 

Coreopsis  spp. 

Cosmos,  Cosmos  spp. 

Daisy,  Swan  River,  Bracliycoiue  iheridifolia 

Nasturtium,  Tropcroliiin  spp. 

Pansy,    Viola  tricolor. 

Pea,  Sweet,  Lathyrus  odoraius. 

Stock,  Ten  Weeks,  Matthiola  incana,  var. 
annua. 
Six  fragrant-flowered  annuals: 

Alyssum,  Sweet,  Alyssniu   iiiaritiumm. 

Bartonia,  IMcntzelia  Lindlcyi. 

Mignonette,  Reseda  spp. 

Pea,  Sweet,  Lathyrus  odoratns. 

Stock,   Ten  Weeks,   Matthit^Ui   incana,  var. 
annua. 

Sultan,  Sweet,  Centaitrca  nioschaia. 
Six  everlasting-flowered  annuals: 

Catananche  cccrulea. 

Gomphrcna  glohosa. 

HelicJirysnm   bractcatnni. 

Helipteriim    rosenin. 

Polypteris   Hookcriana. 

Xeraniheiniiin  annuiini. 
Six   annuals    that   bloom   for   eight  weeks  oi 
longer: 

Agerattim,   Ageratunt  conyzoides. 

Clarkia,  Clarkia  elegans. 

Morning-glory,  Ipomcea  purpurea. 

Nasturtium,   Tropceoluni  spp. 

Petunia,  Petunia  spp. 

Zinnia,  Zinnia  spp. 
Six  climbing  anmtals: 

Balloon-vine,  Cardiospcrniuin  Halicacabuin 

Bean,  Hyacinth,  Dolichos  Lablab. 

Cypress-vine,  Ipomcea  Quamoclit. 

Hop,   Japanese,   HnmtUiis  Japonicus,    var 
variegatus. 


Climbing  Annuals — Continued 
Moonriower,  Ipomcea  Bona-nox. 
Morning-glory,  Ipomcea  purpurea. 
Six  annuals  with  striking  foliage: 
Castor-bean,  Ricinus  communis. 
Corn,  Japanese  variegated,  Zea  Mays,  var. 

Japonicus. 
Hemp,  Giant,  Cannabis  sativ a,  var.  gigantea. 
Hop,   Japanese,   Huniulus  Japonicus,   var. 

'eariegafus. 
Nicotiana  alata. 
Prince's-father,       Amaranetus       hypochon- 

driacus. 
Six   annuals    that  re-sow    themselves — likely 

to  prove  troublesome: 
Hop,   Japanese,   Humulus  Japonicus,   var. 

variegatus. 
Morning-glory,  Ipoma-a  purpurea. 
Nicotiana  alata. 
Poppy,   Pa  paver  spp. 
Rose  Moss,  Portulacca  grandiflora. 
Shell-flower,  Moluccclla  Iccvis. 
Six  annuals  for  successional  sowing: 
Alyssum,   Sweet,  Alyssum  mariiimum 
Baby's  Breath,  Gypsophila  elegans. 
Clarkia,  Clarkia  elegans. 
Pea,  Sweet,  Lathyrus  odoratus. 
Poppy,  California,  Eschscholzia  Californica. 
Stock,  Ten  Weeks,  Matthiola  incana,  var. 

annua. 
Six  annuals  for  sunny  places: 
Amaranths,  Amarantus  spp. 
Balsam.  Impatiens  Balsamina. 
Bean,   Hyacinth,   Dolichos  Lablab. 
Gaillardia,  Gaillardia  spp. 
Nasturtium,   Tropceoluni  spp. 
Rose  Moss,  Portulacca  grandiflora. 
'ix  annuals  for  shady  places: 
Godetia,   (J^notJiera   spp. 
Musk-plant,  Mimulus  moschatus. 
Nemophila,  Neinophila  spp. 
Pansy,   Viola  tricolor. 
Tarweed,  Madia  elegans. 
Torenia,   Torenia  spp. 
Six  annuals  for  rocky  places: 

Baby's  Breath,  Gypsophila  elegans. 
Candytuft,  Iberis  spp. 
Catclifly,   Silene  spp. 
Clarkia,  Clarkia  elegans. 
Nasturtium,   Tropceolum  spp. 
Rose  Moss,  Portulacca  grandiflora. 
Six  annuals  for  sand}^  soil: 
Clarkia,  Clarkia  elegans. 


335 


336 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


Annuals  for  sandy  soil — Continued 

Cobcea  scandois. 

Godetia,  CEnotliera  spp. 

Nasturtium,   Tropccolum  spp. 

Portulacca,  Portulacca  grandiflora. 

Zinnia,  Zinnia  elegans. 
Six  annuals  for  heavy  soil: 

Alyssum,  Sweet,  Alyssum  maritimum. 

Chrysanthemum,  Chrysanthemum  coronaria, 
etc. 

Godetia,  (JLnotJiera  spp. 

Pea,  Sweet.  Latliyrns  odoratii:;. 

Petunia,  Petunia  spp. 

Zinnia,  Zinnia  elegans. 
Six  annuals  for  very  cold  climates: 

Alyssum,  Sweet,  Alyssum  maritimum. 

Clarkia  elegans. 

Marigold,  Tagetes  spp. 

Pansy,   Viola  tricolor. 

Pea,  "Sweet,  Lathyrus  odoratus. 

Stock,  Ten  Weeks,  Matthiola  incana,  var. 
annua. 
Six  annuals  for  warm  climates: 

Amaranths,  Amarantus  spp. 

Balsam,  Impatiens  Balsamina. 

Moonflower,  Ipomcea  Bona-nox. 

Morning-glory,  Ipomcea  purpurea. 

Nasturtium.,   Tropccolum  spp. 

Rose  Moss,  Portulacca  grandiflora. 
Six  annuals  that  resist  drought: 

Bean,   Hyacinth,  Dolichos  Lablab. 

Ice-plant,  Mesembryaiithcmutn  crysiallinum. 

Nasturtium,   Tropccolum  spp. 

Petunia,  Petunia  spp. 

Rose  Moss,  Portulacca  grandiflora. 

Zinnia,  Zinnia  elegans. 
Six  annuals  that  blossom  after  a  frost: 

Alyssum,  Sweet,  Alyssum  maritimum. 

Candytuft,  Iberis  spp. 

Clarkia  elegans. 

Marigold,  Tagetes  spp. 

Phlox  Druminondii. 

Stock,  Ten  Weeks,  Matthiola  incana,  var. 
annua. 
Six  annuals  which    inay  be  sown  in  autumn 
for  early  spring  bloom: 

Candytuft,   Iberis  spp. 

Clarkia  elegans. 

Gilia,  CEnotliera  spp. 

Pea,  Sweet,  Lathyrus  odoratus. 

Phlox  Drumynondii. 

Poppy,  California,  Eschschohia  Calif  arnica. 
Six  annuals  that  blossom  in  May: 

Alyssum,  Sweet,  Alyssum  marttimtun. 

Baby's  Breath,  Gypsophila  elegans. 

Godetia,  CEnotliera  spp. 

Marigold,  Tagetes  spp. 

Phlox  Druminondii. 

Stock,  Ten  Weeks,  Matthiola  incana,  var. 
annua. 
Six  annuals  that  bloom  in  June: 

Amaranths,  Amarantus  spp. 


Annuals  that  bloom  in  June — Continuea 

Candytuft,  Iberis  spp. 

Clarkia  elegans. 

Morning-glory,  Ipomaa  purpurea. 

Nastvirtium,   Tropccolum  spp. 

Stock,   Ten   Weeks,   Matthiola  incana,  var. 
annua. 
Six  annuals  that  bloom  in  July: 

Bean,  Hyacinth,  Dolichos  Lablab. 

Chrysanthemum  coronarium,  etc. 

Cobcea  scandens. 

Gaillardia,  Gaillardia  spp. 

Moonflower,  Ipomcea  Bona-nox. 

Nasturtium,  Tropccolum  spp. 
Six  annuals  that  bloom  in  August: 

Bean,  Castor,  Ricinus  communis. 

Chrysanthemum  coronariuni',  etc. 

Hemp,  Giant,  Cannabis  sativa,  var.  gigantea. 

Hop,   Japanese,   Humulus  Japonicus,    var. 
variegatus. 

Moonflower,   Ipomcea  Bona-nox. 

Alauratidia  Barclaiana,  etc. 
Six  annuals  that  bloom  in  September: 

Ageratum,  Ageratum  co)iyzoides. 

Candytuft,  Iberis  spp. 

Cosmos,  Cosmos  spp. 

Musk-plant,  Mimulus  nioschatus. 

Verbena,  Verbena  spp. 

Zinnia,  Zinnia  elegans. 
Six  annuals  that  blossom  in  October: 

Alyssum,  Sweet,  Alyssum  maritimum. 

Candy tiift,  Iberis  spp. 

Clarkia,  Clarkia  elegans. 

Godetia,  CEnotliera  spp. 

Marigold,   Tagetes  spp. 

Stock,  Ten  Weeks,  Matthiola  incana,  var. 
annua. 
Six  white-flowered  annuals: 

Baby's  Breath,  Gypsophila  elegans. 

Candytuft,  Iberis  spp. 

Daisv,  Swan  River,  Brachycome  iberidifolia. 

Heli'picrum    coryinbiflorum. 

Moonflower,   Iponnra   Bona-nox. 

Nicotiana  alata. 
Six  lilac,  magenta,  or  purple-flowered  annuals: 

Bean,  Hyacinth,  Dolichos  Lablab. 

Cobcea  scandens. 

Mourning-bride,  Scabiosa  spp. 

Nemophila,  Nemophila  spp. 

Verbena,  Verbena  spp. 

Xeranthemum   annu urn. 
Six  blue-flowered  annuals: 

Ageratum,   Ageratuiii  conyzoides. 

Corn-flower,  Centaurea  Cyanus. 

Daisy,  Swan  River,  Brachycome  iberidifolia. 

Lobelia  Eriniis. 

Nemophila,   Nemophila  spp. 

Salpiglossis  sinuata. 
Six  yellow-flowered  annuals: 

Calceolaria  spp. 

Helipterum  Sanfordii. 

Marigold,   Tagetes  spp. 


Appendix 


337 


Yellow-flowered  annuals — Continued 

Nasturtium,   Tropceolum  spp. 

Poppy,  California,  Eschscholzia  Californica. 

Zinnia,   spp. 
Six  pink-flowered  annuals: 

Amaranth,  Globe,  Goniplirciia  globosa. 

Balsam,  Impatiens  Balsauii}ia. 

Clarkia  elegans. 

Cosmos  spp. 

Gilia,  Qinothera  spp. 

Pea,  Sweet,  Latliyriis  oJoratiis. 
Six  red-flowered  annuals: 

Cockscomb,  Celosia  spp. 

Gaillardia  spp. 

Hclichrysniii  bractcatiiDi. 

Linum  graiidifioriiDi,  var.  rubruiii. 

Poppy,  Papavcr  spp. 

Rose  Moss,  Portulacca  grandiflora. 
Six  annuals  with  variegated  flowers: 

Butterfly-flower,  Scliizanthiis  spp. 

Godetia,  CEuothcra  spp. 

Helipterii ui  Alanglesii. 

Monkey-flower,  ^liimthis  spp. 

Petunia  spp. 

Phlox  Drummondii. 
Six  annuals  less  than  one  foot  high: 

Alyssum,  Sweet,  Alyssum  maritimiiMi. 

Ice-plant,  MesembryantJiemiim  crystallinum. 

Lobelia  Erinus. 

Nemophila  spp. 

Pansy,   Viola  tricolor. 

Rose  Moss,  Portulacca  grandiflora. 
Six  annuals  between  one  and  two  feet  high: 

Baby's  Breath,  Gypsophila  elegans. 

Clarkia  elegans. 

Marigold,  Tagetes  spp. 

Mignonette,  Reseda  spp. 

Mimulus  spp. 

Petunia  spp. 
Six  annuals  between  two  and  three  feet  high: 

Amaranths,  Amarantus  spp. 

Bartonia,  Mentzelia  Lindleyi. 

Cotton,  Gossypiitm  Iierbaceuin. 

Polypteris  Hookeriana. 

Poppy,  Papaver  spp. 

Mourning-bride,  Scabiosa  spp. 
Six  annuals  more  than  three  feet  high: 

Bean,  Castor,  Ricinus  communis. 

Com,     Japanese     variegated,     Zea    Mays, 
var.  Japonicus. 

Cosmos  spp. 

Hemp,  Giant,  Cannabis  sativa,  \a.v  gigantea. 

Alohiccella  spinosa. 

Nicotiana  alata. 

PERENNIALS  (See  Chapter  II) 

Ten  of  the  most  popular  perennials: 

Anemone  spp. 

Columbine,  Aquilegia  spp. 

Coneflower,  Rudbeckia  spp. 
■   Hollvhock,    Ahhcca   rosea. 


Most  popular  perennials— Continued 

Iris  spp. 

Larkspur,  Delphinium  formosum. 

Peony,  PcEonia  spp. 

Phlox  spp. 

Poppy,  Papaver  spp. 

Sunflower,  Helianthus  spp. 
Ten  perennials  useful  for  cut   flowers: 

Anetnone  Japonica. 

Columbine,  Aquilegia  spp. 

Daisy,  Giant,  Pyrethrum  uliginosum. 

Gaillardia  aristata. 

Gas-plant,  Dictamnus  albiis. 

Larkspur,  Delphinium  formosum. 

Pinks,  Dianthus  spp. 

Rocket,  Sweet,  Hesperis  matronalis. 

Snapdragon,  AntirrJiinum  spp. 

Sunflower,  HcliantJius  dcbilis. 
Six  perennials  with  fragrant  flowers: 

Gas-plant,  Diciamnus  albus 

Goldentuft,    Alyssum,    saxatile,    var.    com- 
pactum. 

Ground  Nut,  Apios  tuberosa. 

Rock-cress,  Arabis  albida. 

Rocket  Sweet,  Hesperis  matronalis. 

Scotch  Pink,  Dianthus  plumariiis. 
Six  perennials  with  everlasting  flowers: 

Amnwbium  alatum. 

Briza  maxima  (grass). 

Bromus  brizccformis  (grass). 

Cat's  Ear,  Aniennaria  dioica. 

Helichrysum  gra ndifloru m. 

Statice  incana. 
Six  perennials  that  will  bloom  the  first  season: 

Butterfly  Pea,  Centrosema  Virginiana. 

Ch  rysa  n't  hem  um  morifolium. 

Gaillardia  aristata. 

Larkspur,  DclpJii}iiiim  formosum. 

Pink,  Dianthus  spp. 

Snapdragon,  AntirrhiniDn  ma  jus. 
Some     perennials    that    may    be    cut    after 
flowering  for  a  second  crop  of  bloom: 

Coneflower,  Rudbeckia  triloba. 

Larkspur,  Delphinium  formosum. 

Goldentuft,  Alyssum  saxatile. 
Six  climbing  perennials: 

Butterfly  Pea,  Centrosema  Virginiana. 

Clematis  Viorna,  var.  coccinea. 

Dolichos       Japonicus,       Pueraria       Thun- 
bergiana. 

Ground  Nut,  Apios  tuberosa. 

Hop,  Common,  Humulus  Lupulus. 

Perennial  Pea,  Lathyrus  latifolius. 
Six    perennials    that    blossom     longer    than 
eight  weeks : 

Coral  Bells,  Heuchera  sanguinea. 

Marguerite,   Golden,  Anthcmis  tinctoria. 

Perennial   Pea,  Lathyrus  latifolius. 

Poppy,  Iceland,  Papaver  nudicaule. 

Popp\'-mallow,    Callirhoe   involucrata,  var. 
lineariloba 

Sunflower,  Helianthus  multiflorus. 


338 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


Six     perennials    to    remain     undisturbed    for 
years; 
Gas-plant,  Dictaiuniis  albiis. 
Ins  spp. 

Peony,  Pccojiia  spp. 
Pill  ox  spp. 

Perennial  Pea,  Lathyrus  latijoliiis. 
Yucca  filamentosa,  etc. 
Six    perennials  to  be  renewed   every  year  or 
two : 
Columbine,  Aquilcgia  ccErulca. 
Coneflower,  Riidbcckia  triloba. 
Daisy,  English,  Bcllis  pcrennis. 
Holl\-hock,  Althca  rosea. 
Poppy,  Iceland,  Papaver  nudicaule. 
Snapdragon,   Aniirriiinum  majus. 
Six   perennials   likely   to   prove    troublesome 
by  spreading: 
Balm,   Fragrant,  Monarda  didyiw 
Candytuft,   Iberis  sempervirens. 
Goldenrod,  Solidago  rigida. 
Ground  Nut,  Apios  tuberosa. 
Poppy,  Plume,  Bocconia  cordata. 
Sacaline,  Polygonum  bachalinense. 
Six  perennials  for  sunny  places: 
Conefiower,  Rudbeckia  hirta. 
Gaillardia  aristata. 

Golden  Marguerite,  AntJieniis  tinctoria. 
Poppy-mallow,    Callirhoe   involucrata,   var. 

lineariloba. 
Rock-cress,  Arabis  albida. 
Sunflower,  Helianthus  spp. 
Six  perennials  for  shady  places: 
.4 ncmonc  Pciiiisylvaiiica. 
Bluebells,  Mcrtensia  piilmonarioides. 
Bugleweed,  Ajiiga  reptens. 
Helleboras  niger. 
Phlox  divaricaia. 

Shooting  Star,  Dodecatheon  Meadia. 
Six  perennials  for  coll  climates: 
Goldentuft,  Alyssmn  saxatile. 
Lychnis  alpina. 
Moss  Pink,  Phlox  snbiilata. 
Poppy,   Iceland,  Papaver  nudicaule. 
Rocket,  Sweet,  Hcspcris  matronalis. 
Saxifrage,  Saxifraga  spp. 
Six  perennials  for  warm  climates: 
Chrysanthciniim  spp. 
Coneflower,  Rudbeckia  hirta. 
Dianthus  spp. 
Funkia  spp. 
Gunnera  manicata. 
Iris  Japonica. 
Six  drought-resisting  perennials: 

Baby's   Breath,   Gypsophila   paniculata. 
Coneflower,  Rudbeckia  hirta. 
Inula  grandiflora. 
Sedum  spp. 

Sunflower,  Helianthus  spp. 
Yucca  filamentosa,  etc. 
Six  perennials  that  bloom  after  a  frost: 
chrysanthemum  spp. 


Perennials  that  bloom  after  a  frost — Continued 

Goldentuft,  Alyssum  saxatile. 

Gaillardia  aristata. 

Goldenrod,  Solidago  spp. 

Perennial  Pea,  Lathyrus  latifolius. 

Poppy,   Iceland,  Papaver  nudicaule. 
Six  perennials  for  rocky  places: 

Anemone  blanda. 

Bluebells,   Mcrtensia   pulmonarioides. 

Columbine,  Aquilegia  spp. 

Moss-pink,  Phlox  subulata. 

Rock-cress,  Arabis  albida. 

Sun   Rose,  Helianthemum  Cltamcccistus. 
Six  perennials  for  sandy  soil: 

Blazing-star,  Liatris  spp. 

Hclichrysum  arenarium. 

Poppy-mallow,   Callirhoe    involucrata,   var. 
lineariloba. 

Sacaline,  Polygonum  Sachalinense. 

Sunflower,  Helianthus  spp. 

Sun-rose,  Helianthemum  canadense. 
Six  perennials  for  heavy  soil: 

Columbine,  Aquilegia  spp. 

Forget-me-not,  Alyosotis  palustris. 

Gas-plant,  Dictamnus  albus. 

Larkspur,   Delphi)iium  jormosnm. 

Peony,  Pceonia  spp. 

Phlox  spp. 
Six  perennials  for  moist  or  low  ground: 

Balm,  Fragrant,  Monarda  didyma. 

Cardinal  Flower,  Lobelia  cardinalis. 

Funkia  spp. 

Iris  Iccvigaia. 

Joe-Pye-weed,  Eupatorium   purpurcum 

Ranunculus  aquaticus. 
Six  perennials  that  re-sow  themselves: 

Beard-tongue,   Pentstemon  spp. 

Cardinal  Flower,  Lobelia  cardiiialis. 

Clematis  Viorna,  var.  coccinea. 

Forget-me-not,  Alyosotis  palustris. 

Gas-plant,  Dictamnus  albus. 

Snapdragon,  Antirrhinum  majus. 
Six  perennials  with  striking  foliage: 

Adam's  Needle,   Yucca  filamentosa. 

Anemone  'japonica. 

Eulalia,  Miscanthus  Sinensis,  var.  zebrinus. 

Funkia  spp. 

Giant  Reed,  Arundo  Donax. 

Poppy,  Plume,  Bocconia  cordata. 
Six  perennials  less  than  one  foot  high: 

Candytuft,   Iberis  sempervirens. 

Daisy.   English,  Bellis  perennis. 

Forget-me-not,  Alyosotis  palustris. 

Moss  Pink,  Phlox  subulata 

Rock-cress,  Aubrtetia  deltoidea. 

Shooting-star,  Dodecatheon  Meadia. 
Six  perennials  from  one  to  two  feet  high: 

Achillea   ptarmica. 

Balm,  Fragrant,  Monarda  didyma. 

Columbine,  Aquilegia  Canadensis. 

Funkia  subcordata. 

Lychnis  Viscaria. 

Poppy,  Iceland,  Papaver  nudicaule. 


Appendix 


339 


Six  perennials  from  two  to  three  feet  high: 
Bleeding-heart,  Diccntra  spp. 
Canterbury-bell,   Caiiipayiula  Aledium. 
Cardinal  Flower,  Lobelia  cardinalis. 
Flame  Flower,  Kiiipliofia  aloides. 
Gas-plant,  Dictauuins  albiis. 
Peon}^  PcBonia  spp. 

Six  perennials  from  three  to  four  feet  high: 
Adam's  Needle,    Yucca  filaincntosa. 
Daisy,  Giant,  Pyrclhntni   iiligino.sM)>i. 
Larkspur,  Dclphiiiiiiin  foniiosiDii. 
Poppy,  Oriental,  Papaver  orienlale. 
Sunflower,  Heliantlius  multiflorus. 
Tree  Peony,  Pcconia  Moutan. 

Six  perennials  from  four  to  six  feet  high: 
Coneflower,  Rudbeckia  maxima. 
Hollyhock,  Aliliea  rosea. 
Japanese     Eulalia,  Miscanllnts,    var.  varie- 

gatiis. 
Joe-Pye-weed,  Eupaioriuni  purpureum 
Ravenna  Grass,  EriantJius  Ravenncc. 
Zebra     Grass,    MiscantliHs    Sinensis,    var. 
zebrinus. 

Six  perennials  taller  than  six  feet: 
Bugbane,  Ciniicijiiga  raceniosa. 
Cranibe  cordijolia. 

Grass,   Giant   Rye,  Elynnns  coudensafiis. 
Reed,  Giant,  Aritndo  Donax. 
Sacaline,   Polyganiim   SacJialinense. 
Sunflower,   Heliantlius  orgyalis. 

•Six  white-flowered  perennials: 
Achillea  ptarmica. 
Adam's  Needle,   Yucca  filainentosa. 
AsUlbe  Japonica. 
Daisy,  Bellis  perennis. 
Day  Lily,  Funkia  spp. 
Rock-cress,  Arabis  albida. 

Six   lilac,  magenta   and    purple-flowered  per- 
ennials: 

Beard-tongue,  Pcntstcinoi  spp. 

Blazing-star,  Liatris  clegans. 

Gas-plant,  Dictainniis  albiis. 

Pink.  Fringed,  Dianihits  superbns. 

Rock-cress,  Aubrietia  deltoidea. 

Shooting-star,   Dodecatheon  Meadia. 
Six  blue-flowered  perennials: 

Anonone  blanda. 

Clematis  Davidiana. 

Columbine,     Rocky     Mountain,     Aquilegia 
ccerulea. 

Forget-me-not,   Myosotis  pahistris. 

Irts  Icevigata. 

Larkspur,   Delphiniiini   formosiim. 
Six  yellow-flowered  perennials: 

Columbine,   Aquilegia  chrysantha. 

Coneflower,   Rudbeckia  spp. 

Gaillardia  aristata. 

Goldentuft,      Alyssum      s  a  x  at  i  I  c  ,     var. 
con  paction. 

Poppy,   Iceland,  Papaver  niidicaiile. 

Sunflower,  Helianthus  spp. 


Six  pink-flowered  perennials: 
Bleeding-heart,  Dicenira  spp. 
Hollyhock,  Althea  rosea. 
Lychnis  Viscaria,  var.  splendens 
Moss-pink,  Phlox  subulata. 
Peony,  Pceonia  spp. 
Pink,  Dianthus  spp. 

Six  red-flowered  perennials: 
A)iemone  Japonica. 
Balm,  Fragrant,  Hlonarda  didyma. 
Cardinal   Flower,  Lobelia  cardinalis. 
Clematis  Viorna,  var.  coccinea. 
Coral  Bells,  Heuchera  sangiiinea. 
Peony,  Pceonia  spp. 

Perennials  with  variegated  flowers:  Many 
cultivated  varieties  of  such  perennials  as 
Lychnis  Viscaria,  Phlox  paniculata, 
Dianthus,  etc. 

Six  perennials  that  bloom  in  April  or  earlier: 

Anenwtie  blanda. 

Bloodroot,  Sanguinea  Canadensis. 
Bluebells,   Mcrtensia   pulmonarioides. 
Candytvift,  Ibcris  scm pcrvircns. 
Daisy,  English,  Bellis  perennis. 
Shooting-star,  Dodecatheon  Meadia. 

Six  perennials  that  bloom  in  May: 

AJHga  re  plans. 

Alpine  Lamp  Plant,  Lychnis  alpina. 

Forget-me-not,  Myosotis  palustris. 

Moss  Pink,  Phlox  subulata. 

Rock-cress,  Arabis  albida. 

Tree  Peony,  I\eonia  Moutan. 
Six  perennials  that  bloom  in  June: 

Achillea  ptarmica. 

Bleeding-heart,  Dicentra  spp. 

Columbine,  Aquilegia  glandulosa. 

Leopard's   Bane,  Doronicum  plantaginemn 
var.    excel  sunt. 

Peony,  Pceonia  officinalis. 

Rock-cress,  Atibrietia  deltoidea. 
Six  perennials  that  bloom  in  July: 

Adam's  Needle,   Yticca  filamentosa. 

Blazing-star,  Liatris  elegans. 

Canterbury-bell,  Campanula  Aledium. 

Clematis  Viorna,  var.  coccinea. 

Gas-plant,  Dictamntts  albiis. 

Poppy,  Iceland,  Papaver  iiudicaule. 
Six  perennials  that  bloom  in    August: 

Balm,  Fragrant,  Monarda  didyma. 

Butterfly  Pea,  Centrosema  Virginiana. 

Ground  Nut,  Apios  tuberosa. 

Hollyhock,  Althea  rosea. 
-Lychnis  Viscaria. 

Sunflower,  Heliantlius  multiflorus. 
Six  perennials  that  bloom  in  September: 

Cardinal  Flower,  Lobelia  cardinalis. 

Clematis  Viorna,  var.  coccinea. 

Coneflower,  Rudbeckia  maxima. 

Daisy,   Giant,  Pyrethriim  uliginosum. 

Funkia  lancifolia. 

Perennial  Pea,  Lathyrus  latifolius. 


340 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


Six  perennials  that  bloom  in  October  or  later: 
Chrysanthemum  spp. 
Gaillardia  aristata. 
Goldenrod,  SoUdago  rigida. 
Golden ttift,  Alysswm  saxatile. 
Popp3',  Iceland,  Papaver  nudicaule. 
Poppy-mallow,  Callirhoe  involucrata. 

SHRUBS  (See  Chapter  III) 

Ten  of  the  most  popular  shrubs: 

Barberry,  Berbcris  vulgaris. 

Currant^  Golden,  Ribcs  aiireimi. 

Deutzia  gracilis. 

Hydrangea  paniculata  grandiflora. 

Lilac,  Syringa  vulgaris. 

Rhododendron  Catawbiense. 

Snowball,   Viburnum  Opulus. 

Spircsa  spp. 

Syringa      or      Mock-orange,      Philadelphus 
coronarius. 

Weigela,  Dicrvilla  Japonica. 
Ten  shrubs  with  fragrant  flowers: 

Alder,  White,  Clethra  alnifolia. 

Allspice,  Carolina,  Calycanthus  floridtis. 

Amorpha,     Fragrant,     Amorpha    fruticosa, 
var.  fragrans. 

Currant,  Golden,  Ribes  aureuiu. 

Daphne  Mezereum. 

Elder,  Sambucus  Canadensis. 

Lilac,  Syringa  vulgaris. 

Mock-orange      or      S3"ringa,      Philadelphus 
coronarius. 

Oleaster,  Eleagnus  argentea. 

Sheepberry,  Viburnum  Lentago. 
Ten    shrubs    whose    individual    flowers     are 
large  and  showy: 

Azalea  Calendulacea. 

Azalea  rhombica. 

Carolina  Allspice,  Calycanthus  floridiis. 

Magnolia  Soulangiana. 

Magnolia  stellata. 

Rhododendron  Catawbiense. 

Kerria,  White,  Rhodotypos  kerrioides. 

Rosa  rugosa. 

Rose  of  Sharon,  Hibiscus  Syriacus. 

Stiiartia  pentagyna. 
The    shrubs    which    are    completely    covered 
with  small  but  numerous   flowers: 

Bvickeye,  Dwarf,  Msculus  parviflora. 

Buttonbush,  Cephalanthus  occidentalis. 

Daphne  Mezereum. 

Exochorda,  Exorchorda  grandiflora. 

Fringe-tree,  Chionanthus  Virginica. 

Judas-tree,  Cercis  Canadensis. 

Quince,  Japanese,  Cydonia  Japonica. 

Smoke-tree,  Rhus  Cotinus. 

Spicebush,  Lindera  Benzoin. 

Thorn,   Cratcegus  Crus-galli. 
Six  shrubs  that  blossom  for  eight   or    more 
weeks : 

Cinquefoil,  Shrubby,  Potentilla  fruticosa. 

Kerria,  Kerria  Japonica. 


Shrubs  that  blossom  for  eight  or  more  weeks 
— Continued 
Pepperbush,  Sweet,  Clethra  alnifolia. 
Red  Root,  Ceanothus  Americanus. 
St.  John's  Wort,  Hypericum  prolificum 
Staggerbush,  Pieris  Mariana. 

Six  shrubs  useful  for  cut  flowers: 

Almond,    Double     Flowering,   Primus    Ja- 
ponica. 
Currant,  Golden,  Ribes  aureum. 
Deutzia  gracilis. 
Lilac,  Syringa  vulgaris. 
Snowball,   Viburnum  Opulus. 
Spircca  spp. 

Six  shrubs  attractive  in  fruit: 

Barberry,  Thunberg's,  Berberis  Thunbergii. 
Burning-bush,  Euonymus  atropurpiirens. 
Currant,  Indian,  Sym phoricarpus  vulgaris. 
Kerria,  White,  Rhodotypos  kerrioides 
Snowberry,  Sym  phoricarpus  racemosus. 
Strawberry-bush,  Euonymus  alatus. 

Six  shrubs  attractive  in  foliage: 

Allspice,  Carolina,  Calycanthus  fioridus. 
Golden-bell,  Forsythia  suspensa. 
Hydrangea,  Oak-leaved,  Hydrangea  querci- 

folia. 
Oleaster,  Elccagnus  argentea. 
Raspberry,  Flowering,  Riibus  odoratiis. 
Swallow  Thorn,  Hippo phae  rhamnoides. 

Six     deciduous      shrubs      attractive     during 
winter : 
Barberry,  Berberis  Thunbergii. 
Bramble,  Japanese,  Rubus  cratccgifoHus. 
Kerria,  Kerria  Japonica. 
Kerria,  White,  Rhodotypos  kerrioides. 
Swallow  Thorn,  Hippo  phae  rhamnoides. 
Winterberry,  Ilex  verticellata. 

Six  evergreen  shrubs: 

Juniper,  Juniperus  communis. 
Laurel,  Mountain,  Kalmia  latifolia. 
Mahonia,  Berberis  Aquifolium. 
Pieris  fioribunda. 
Pine,  Dwarf,  Ptnus  pumila. 
Rhododendron  Catawbiense. 

Six    shrubs    attractive    because     of     autvxmn 
colors  with  splendid  foliage: 
Barberrv,  Thunberg's,  Berberis  Thunbergii. 
Burning'-bush,  Euonymus  atropurpureus . 
Rose,  Japanese,  Kerria  Japonica. 
Strawberry-bush,  Euonymus  alatus. 
Sumac,  Dwarf,  Rhus  copallina. 
Willow,  Virginia,  Itea  Virginica. 

Shrubs  with  variously  colored  foliage: 

Numerous  horticultural  varieties  of  many 
species,  e.  g.: 

Purple-leaved  Plum,  Filbert  and  Barberry. 

Golden-leaved  Elderberry,  Syringa  and 
Hop-tree. 

Variegated-leaved  Althea,  Weigela,  Dog- 
wood. 


Appendix 


341 


Shrubs  to  be  protected  from  the  winter  sun: 

Certain  evergreens  with  broad  leaves,  such 
as  andromeda,  mahonia,  and  some  rho- 
dodendrons. Planting  on  a  northern 
exposure  or  in  the  shade  of  evergreens 
or  even  very  branchy  trees  is  generally 
effective. 
Four  shrubs  with  coloured  bark: 

Bailey's  Osier,  Corniis  Baileyi. 

Bramble,  Japanese,  Rubus  cratagifoliiis. 

Kerria,  Kerria  Japonica. 

Strawberry-bush,  Euonyinus  Auiericanus. 
Four  shrubs  that  resist  drought: 

Cherry,  Sand,  Prnniis  Bessyi. 

St.  John's  Wort,  Hypericum  Kalmianiiiii. 

Swallow  Thorn,  Hippophae  rhamnoides. 

Tamarisk,   Taiiiarix  Cliinensis. 
Fotir   shrubs   likely   to    become    troublesome 
by  suckering,  etc.: 

Cinquefoil,  Shrubby,  Potentilla  fruiicosa. 

Ozier,  Red-twigged,  Cornus  stolonifera. 

Raspberry,  Flowering,  Rubus  odoratus. 

Swallow  Thorn,  Hippophae  rhamnoides. 
Four  shrubs  for  warm  cliinates: 

Allspice,  Carolina,  Calycanthus  floridus. 

Camellia,  American,  Stuartia  pentagyua. 

Oleaster,  Elccagnus  argentea. 

Weigela,  Diervilla  spp. 
Four  shi-ubs  for  cold  climates: 

Buttonbush,  Cephalanilius  occidentalis. 

Daphne  Mezereum. 

St.  John's  Wort.  Hypericum  Kalinianuin. 

Sheepberry,  Viburnum  Lentago. 
Four  shrubs  suitable  for  sunny  places: 

Allspice,  Carolina,  Calycanthus  floridus. 

Indigo,  Bastard,  Ainorplia  fruticosa. 

Oleaster,  Elccagnus  argentea. 

Spiraea,  Blue,  Caryoptcris  Mastacanthus. 
Four  shrubs  suitable  for  shady  places: 

Andromeda  floribunda. 

Mahonia,  Berberis  Aqnifolium. 

Mountain  Laurel,  Kalinia  latijolia. 

St.  John's  Wort,  Hypcriciiiii  aiireum. 
Four  shrubs  suitable  for  hea\-y  soil: 

Cinquefoil,  Shrubby,  Potentilla  fruticosa. 

Lilac,  Syringa  vulgaris. 

Rose  of  Sharon,  Hibiscus  Syriacus. 

Thorn,  Cratcegus  Crus-galli. 
Four  shrubs  suitable  for  light  soil: 

Bearberry,  Red,  Arctostaphylos  Uva-Ursi. 

Cherry-,  Sand,  Prunus  pumila. 

St.  Andrew's  Cross,  Ascyrum  hypericoides. 

St.  John's  Wort,  Hypericum  prolificum. 
Four  shrubs  suitable  for  rockv  places: 

Barberry,  Creeping,  Berberis  repens. 

Bearberry,  Red,  Arctostaphylos  Uva-Ursi. 

Crowberry,   Empetruin    nigrum. 

Sweet  Fern,  Comptonia  asplenifolia. 
Four  shrubs  suitable  for  moist  soil: 

Alder,  White,  Clethra  alnifolia. 

Holly,  Mountain,  Nemopanthus  fascicularis. 


Shrubs  suitable  for  moist  soil—  Continued 

Spiccbush,  Benzoin  odoriferum. 
\\'illow,  Virginian,  I  tea  Virginica. 

Four  shrubs  suitable  for  the  seashore: 

Bearberry,  Red,  Arctostaphylos  Uva-Ur%i. 

Cherry,  Sand,  Prunus  puniila. 

Swallow  Thorn,  Hippopluic  rhamnoides. 

Tainarisk,  Tamarix  Cliinoisis. 
Four  shrubs  that  bloom  in  April  or  earlier; 

Daphne  Mezereum. 

Goldenbell,  Forsytliia  suspensa. 

Juneberry,  Amelanchier  Canadensis. 

Quince,  Japanese,  Cydonia  Japonica. 
Four  shrubs  that  bloom  in  May: 

Barberry,  Berberis  vulgaris. 

Kerria,  White,  Rhodotypos  kerrioides. 

Lilac,  Syringa  vulgaris. 

Silverbell,  Habenaria  tetraptera. 
Four  shrubs  that  bloom  in  Jvme: 

Amorpha,  Fragrant,  Amorpha  fruticosa.  van, 
fragrans. 

Corchorus,  Kerria  Japonica. 

Deutzia  gracilis. 

Oleaster,  Elceagnus  argentea. 
Four  shrubs  that  bloom  in  July: 

Buttonbush,  Cephalanthus  occidentalis. 

Pepperbush,  Sweet,  Clethra  alnifolia. 

St.  John's  Wort,  Hypericum  prolificum. 

Spircea  Douglasii. 

Four  shrubs  that  bloom  in  August : 
Alder,  Sweet,  Clethra  alnifolia. 
H ydrangea  paniculata  grandiflora. 
Spir^a,  Blue,  Caryoptcris  Masticanthus. 
Spircea  Bidlata. 

Four  shrubs  that  bloom  in  September  or  later: 

Gordonia  pubescens  (not  fully  hard}). 

Witch-hazel,  Hamamelis  Virginia Jia. 

Spiraea,  Blue,  Caryopteris  AIastaca)ithus. 

Spircea  conspicua. 
Four  shrubs  less  than  two  feet  high : 

Barberry,  Creeping,  Berberis  repens. 

Bunchberry,   Cornus  Canadensis. 

Daphne  Cneorum. 

St.  Andrew's  Cross,  Ascyrtim  hypericoides. 
Four  shrubs  between  two  and  five  feet  high: 

Barberry,  Thunberg's,  Berberis  Thungergii. 

Redroot,  Ceanothus  Americanus. 

St.   John's  Wort,   Hypericum    prolificum. 

Spiraea,    Blue,  Caryopteris    Mastacanthus. 
Four  shrubs  between  five  and  eight  feet  high: 

Barberry,  Common,   Berberis  vulgaris. 

Goldenbell,  Forsythia  suspensa. 

Quince,  Japanese,  Cydonia  Japonica. 

Rose,  Japanese,  Kerria  Japonica. 
Four  shrubs  between   eight  and    twelve   feet 
high: 

Buttonbush,  Cephalanthus  occidentalis. 

Oleaster,  Elceagnus  argentea. 

Silverbell,  Halesiu  tetraptera. 

Smoke-tree,  Rhus  Cotinus. 


342 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


Four  shrubs  between  twelve  and  twenty  feet 
high: 

Amorpha,    Fragrant,      Amorpha     jruHcosa 
var.  fragrans. 

Burning-bush,  Euonymus  atropurpureus. 

Swallowthorn,  Hippo pha'e  rhamnoides. 

Tamarisk,   Tamarix  Chinensis. 
Four  shrubs  with  white  flowers: 

Deutzia  gracilis. 

Exochorda,  Exochorda  grandiflora. 

Pepperbush,  Clethra  alnijolia. 

Silverbeil,  Halesia  tetraptera. 
Four  shrubs  with  purple  flowers: 

Daphne  Mezereum. 

Indigo,  False,  Amorpha  jruticosa. 

Flowering  Raspberry,  Rubus  odoratus. 

Smoke-tree,  Rhus  Cotinns. 
Two  shrubs  with  blue  flowers: 

Amorpha  herbacea. 

Callicarpa  Americana. 
Pour  shrubs  with  yellow  flowers: 

Barberry,  Common,  Berberis  vulgaris. 

Currant,  Golden,  Ribes  aureiim. 

Goldenbell,  Forsythia  suspensa. 

Rose,  Japanese,  Kerria  Japonica. 
Four  shrubs  with  red  flowers: 

Currant,   Red-flowered,  Ribcs  sayiguineum. 

Diervilla,  spp.  ^ 

Quince,  Japanese,  Cydonia  Japonica. 

Spiraea  Douglasii. 
Ten  of  the  most  popular  hedge  plants: 

Arbor- vitcB,  American,   Thuya  occidentalis. 

Hemlock,  Tsuga  Canadensis. 

Holly,  Ilex  crenata,  var.  microphylla. 

Honeysuckle,  Tartarian,  Lonicera  Tatarica. 

Locust,  Honey,  Gleditschia  triacanthos. 

Osage  Orange,  Madura  avirantiaca. 

Privet,  California,  Ligiistrum  ovaliflorum. 

Quince,  Japanese,  Cydonia  Japonica. 

Spruce,  Norway,  Picea  excelsa. 

Thorn,  Cockspur,  Cratcegus  Crus-galli. 
Four  evergreen   I  edge  plants: 

Arbor-vitce,  American,  Thuya  occidentalis. 

Hemlock,  Tsuga  Canadensis. 

Holly,  Ilex  crenata,  var.  microphylla. 

Spruce,  Norway,  Picea  excelsa. 
Four  flowering  hedge  plants: 

Barberry,  Thunberg's,  Berberis  Thunbergii. 

Deutzia  'gracilis. 

Quince,  Japanese,  Cydonia  Japonica. 

Spircea  prunifolia. 
Four  deciduous  hedge  plants: 

Buckthorn,  Rhamnus  caihartica. 

Honeysuckle,  Tartarian,  Lonicera  Tatarica. 

Lilac,  Syringa  vulgaris. 

Thorn,  Cockspur,  Cratcegus  Crus-galli. 

TREES   (See  Chapter  IV) 

Ten  of  the  most  popular  trees: 
Basswood,  Cilia  Americana. 
Button  wood,  Platanus  occidentalis. 


Most  popular  trees — Continued 

Chestnut,  Castanea  Americana. 

Elm,  American,   Ulmus  Americana. 

Horse-chestnut,   .Esculus  Hippocastaniim. 

Locust,  Robinia  Pseudacacia. 

Locust,   Honey,  Gleditschia  triacanthos. 

Maple,  Sugar,  Acer  sacharum. 

Pine,  White,  Pinus  strobus. 

Spruce,  Norway,  Picea  excelsa. 
Six  trees  with  ornamental  foliage: 

Angelica-tree,   Chinese,   Aralia  Chinensis. 

Catalpa  speciosa. 

Coffee-tree,  Kentucky,  Gymnocladus  Cana- 
densis. 

Cucumber-tree,      Large-leaved,      Magnolia 
macro  pliylla. 

Locust,  Honey,  Gleditschia  iriacantJws. 

Papaw,   Asimina  triloba. 
Six  trees  with  fragrant  floVers: 

Linden,  American,  Tilia  Americana. 

Locust,  Black,  Robinia  Pseudacacia. 

Magnolia,    Yulan. 

Magnolia,  Hypoleuca. 

Pterostyrax  hispida. 

Yellow-wood,  Cladrastis  tinctoria. 
Six  trees  with  large  individual  flowers : 

Dogwood,  Flowering,  Cornus  Florida. 

Gordonia  pubescens  (not  fully  hardy). 

Magnolia,   Hypoleuca. 

Magnolia,   Yulan. 

Papaw,  American,  Asimina  triloba. 

Tulip-tree,  Liriodendron  Tulipifera. 
Six  trees  covered  with  small    but  numerous 
flowers: 

Catalpa  speciosa. 

Goldenchain,  Laburnum  vulgare. 

Laurel,  Great,  Rhododendron  maximum. 

Lilac,  Japanese,  Syringa  Japonica. 

Maple,  Red,  Acer  rubrum. 

Yellow-wood,  Cladrastis  tinctoria. 
Six  trees  with  attractive  autumn  foliage: 

Maple,  Sugar,  Acer  sacharum. 

Oak,  White,  Quercus  alba. 

Pepperidge,  Nyssa  sylvatica. 

Sassafras,  Sassafras  officinale. 

Sweet-gum,  Liquidambar  styracifiua. 

Tulip- tree,  Liriodendron  Tulipifera. 
Four  evergreen  trees: 

Holly,  American,  Ilex  opaca. 

Laurel,    Giant,   Rhododendron  maximum. 

Pine,  White,  Pinus  strobus. 

Spruce,  Norway,  Picea  excelsa. 
Four     deciduous      trees,     attractive     during 
winter: 

Birch,  Paper,  Betula  papyrifera. 

Pagoda-tree,  Japanese,  Sophora  Japonica. 

Sumac,  Staghom,  Rhus  typhina. 

Willow,  Yellow,  Salix  Viiellina. 
Four  trees  with  showy  fruits: 

Cucumber-tree,      Large-leaved,      Magnolia 
macro  phylla. 

Holly,  American,  Ilex  opaca. 


Appendix 


343 


Trees  with  showy  fruits — Continued 

Alountain  Ash,  American,  Sorbus  A»icricana. 
Sumac,  Staghorn,  Rhus  typhina. 

Six  trees  suitable  for  city  planting: 
Ash,  American,  Fraxinus  Americana. 
Button  wood,  Platanus  occidentaLis. 
Locust,  Honey,  Gleditschia  triacanthos. 
Maidenhair-tree,  Ginkgo  biloba. 
Pagoda-tree,  Japanese,  Sophora  Japonica. 
Tree     of     Heaven,     Ailanthus     glandiilosa 
(pistillate) . 

Four  trees  suitable  for  seaside  planting; 
Juniper,  Juniperus  Virginica. 
Sassafras,  Sassafras  officinalis. 
Spruce,  White,  Picea  alba. 
Tree     of     Heaven,     Ailanthus     gland  ulosa 
(pistillate) . 

Four    weeping  trees  and  trees  with  coloured 
foliage : 
Horticultural  varieties  of  numerous  species, 
c.  g.,  Maple,  Birch,  Beech,  Poplar,  Oak, 
Willow,  Elm,  etc. 

Four  trees  that  bloom  in  April  or  earlier: 
Maple,  Red,  Acer  rubruin. 
Shadbush,   Amelanchier  Canadensis. 
Judas-tree,  Cercis  Canadensis. 
Magnolia   Yulaii. 

Four  trees  that  bloom  in  May : 

Dogwood,  Flowering,  Cor)ius  florida. 
Golden-chain,  Laburnum  vulgare. 
Magnolia  Soulangeana. 
Tulijj-tree,  Liriodendron  Tulipifera. 

Four  trees  that  blooin  in  June: 
Catalpa   speciosa. 

Locust,  Black,  Kobinia  Pseudacacia. 
Alagnolia  hypoleuca. 
Pterostyrax  hispida 

Four  trees  that  bloom  in  Jtily: 

Chestnut,   American,   Castanea  Americana. 
Laurel,    Great,   Rhododendron   maxii)ium. 
Lilac,  Japanese,  Syringa  Japonica. 
Rhus  scmialata. 

Four  trees  that  blooin  in  August: 

Angelica-tree,   Chinese,   Aralia  Chinensis. 
Sorrelwood,  Oxydendrum  arboreum. 
Tamarisk,   Tamarix  Gallica. 
Varnish-tree,  Kadreuteria  paniculata. 

Four  trees  that  bloom  in  September: 

Angelica-tree,   Chinese,   Aralia   Chinensis. 
Gordonia  pubescens  (not  fully  hardy) . 
Pagoda-tree,  Japanese,  Sophora  Japonica. 
Rhus  semialata. 

VINES   (See  Chapter  V) 

Ten  of  the  most  popular  \-ines: 
Actinidia  arguta. 

Boston    Ivy,    Ampclopsis   tricuspidata. 
Clematis  spp. 


Alost  popular  vines — Continued 
Cobcca  scandens. 

Dutchman's  Pipe,  Aristolochia  macrophylla. 
Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  spp. 
Ivy,  EngUsh,  Hedera  Helix. 
Pea,   Perennial,  Lathyrus  latif alius. 
Trumpet-creeper,  Tecoma  radicans. 
Wistaria  Chinensis. 

Six  vines  with  showy  flowers: 
Clematis  spp. 
Cobaea  scandens. 
Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  spp. 
Moon  flower,   Ipomoea  Bona-nox. 
Pea,  Perennial,  Lathyrus  lattjolius. 
Trumpet-creeper,   Tecoma  radicans. 

Six  vines  with  attractive  foliage : 
Actinidia  arguta. 
Akebia  quinata. 

Boston    Ivy,    Ampclopsis   tricuspidata. 
Dutchman's  Pipe,  Aristolochia  macrophylla. 
Hop,    Japanese,    Humulus  Japonicus,  var. 

variegatus. 
Silk  Vine,  Periploca  Graca. 

Six  annual  vines: 

Balloon-vine,  Cardiospermum  Halicacabum. 
Bean,    Scarlet    Runner,    Phaseolus    multi- 

florus. 
Canary-bird  Flower,  Tropaolum  peregrinum. 
Ipomcca  versicolor. 
Maurandia  Barclaiana. 
Thunbergia  alata. 

Six  herbaceous  perennial  vines: 

Cinnamon- vine,  Dioscorea  divaricata. 
Clematis,     Scarlet,     Clematis    Viorna,    var. 

coccinea. 
Ground  Nut,  Apios  tiiberosa. 
Hop,  Common,  Humulus  Lupulus. 
Pea,  Butterfly,  Centrosema  Virginiana. 
Pea,   Perennial,  Lathyrus  latif alius. 

Six  vines  with  fragrant  flowers: 
Actinidia   polygama. 
Akebia  qui)iata. 

Cinnamon- vine,  Dioscorea  divaricata. 
Ground  Nut,  Apios  tuberosa. 
Honeysuckle,   Hall's,   Lonicera  Halliana. 
Silk- vine,  Periploca  Graxa. 

Six    vines    that    bloom    for    more    than  four 
weeks : 

Clematis   Viorna,   var.   coccinea. 

Cobcea  scandens. 

Honeysuckle,   Hall's,   Lonicera  Halliana. 

Morning-glory,  Lpomosa  purpurea. 

Pea,  Perennial,  Latliyrus  latifolius. 

Trumpet  creeper,    Tecoma  radicans. 
Six  woody  perennial  vines: 

Akebia  quinata. 

Bitter-sweet,  Celastrus  scandens. 

Matrimony  Vine,  Lycium  Chinense. 

Silk  Vine,  Periploca  Grccca. 

Trumpet-creeper,   Tecoma  radicans. 

Wistaria  Chinensis. 


344 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


FERNS    (See  Chapter  VI) 

Six  of  the  most  popular  hardy  ferns: 

Christmas  Fern,  Polystichmn  acrostichoides. 

Eagle  Fern,  Pteris  aquilina. 

Maidenhair,  Adiantum  pedatiim. 

Ostrich    Fern,    Matteuccia   Struthio pteris. 

Polypody,  Polypodium  vidgare. 

Royal  Fern,  Osmunda  regalis. 
Four  hardy  ferns   suitable   for   damp   places: 

Marsh  Fern,  Dryo pteris  Thely pteris. 

Royal  Fern,  Osmunda  regalis. 

Sensitive  Fern,  Onoclea  sensibilis. 

Wood  Fern,  Dryo  pteris  cristata. 
Four  hardy  ferns  that  will  stand  sunlight: 

Eagle  Fern,  Pteris  aquilina. 

New  York  Fern,  Dryo  pteris  Noveboracense. 

Royal  Fern,  Osmunda  regalis. 

Sensitive  Fern,  Oiwclca  sensibilis. 
Four  hardy  ferns  that  need  shade: 

Chain  Fern,  Woodivardia  angustifolia. 

Lady  Fern,  Felix-fa:inina. 

Maidenhair,  all  spp. 

Oak  Fern,  Phegapteris  Dryo  pteris. 
Four     hardy    ferns     that    succeed   in    partial 
shade: 

Cinnamon   Fern,  Onoclea  cinnamomea. 

Ebony  Spleenwort,  Asplenium  platyneiiron. 

Purple-stemmed  Cliff  Brake,  Pellcea  atropur- 
purea. 

Royal  Fern,  Osmunda  regalis. 
Four  ferns  suitable  for  dry  places: 

Brittle  Fern,  Cysto pteris  fragilis. 

Chain  Fern,   Woodivardia   Virginica. 

Polypody,   Polypodium  vulgare. 

Purple-stemmed  Cliff  Brake,  Pellcea  atropur- 
purea. 
Four  evergreen  ferns: 

Ebony   Spleenwort,   Asplenium  ebeneum. 

Grape    Fern,   Cut-leaved,    Botrychium    dis- 
sec  turn. 

Hairy-lip  Fern,  Cheilanthes  vestiiia. 

Polypody,  Polypodium  vulgare. 


BULBS   (See  Chapter  VII) 

Ten  of  the  most  popular  hardy  bulbs : 

Crocus  spp. 

Daffodil,  Narcissus  Pseudo-Narcissus. 

Gladiolus  spp. 

Hyacinth,  Hyacinthus  spp. 

Jonquil,   Narcissus  Joyiquilla. 

Lily,  Lilium  spp. 

Narcissus,  Poet's,  Narcissus  poeticus. 

Tiger  Flower,  Tigridia  spp. 

Tulip,  Tulipa  spp. 

Zephyr  Flower,  Zephyranthes  spp. 
Six  bulbs  for  April  or  earlier  bloom: 

Crocus   spp. 

Crown-Imperial,  Fritillaria  Imperialis. 

Glory  of  the  Snow,  Chionodoxa  Lucilice. 

Hyacinth,   Grape,   Muscari   moschatum. 


Bulbs  for  April — Continued 

Snowdrop,  Galanthus  nivalis. 

Snowflake,    Spring,    Leucojum    vernum 
Six  hardv  bulbs  for  May  bloom: 

Daffodil,   Narcissus  Pseudo-narcissus. 

Hyacinth,   Hyacinthus  spp. 

Jonquil,   Narcissus  Jonquilla. 

Pusclik i)iia  scilloides. 

Suinmer  Snowflake,  Leucojum  cestivum. 

Tulip,  Tulipa  spp. 
Six  hardy  bulbs  that  bloom  in  June: 

Anemone    narcissiflora. 

Anemone,   Poppy-Flowered,  Anemone  coro- 
naria. 

Anemone    Virginiana. 

Harebell,  Scilla  festalis. 

Iris,  Spanish,  Iris  XipJiium. 

Lily,  Cuban,  Scilla  Peruviana. 
Six  bulbs  that  bloom  in  July: 

Blazing-star,    Tritonia  crocosniccflora. 

Homeria  collina. 

Hyacinth,   Star,  Scilla  auluninalis. 

Lycoris  sanguinea. 

Tiger  Flower,  Tigridia  buccijera. 

Zephyr  Flower,  Zephyranthes  carinata. 
Six  bulbs  that  bloom  in  Atigvist: 

Blazing-star,    Tritonia    crocata. 

Gladiolus  spp. 

Hyacinth,    Giant   Summer,  Galtonia   candi- 
cans. 

Squill,    Hyacinth,    SctUa    Hyacinthioides. 

Tiger  Flower,  Tigridia  Pavonia. 

Watsonia   Meriana. 
Six  bulbs  that  bloom  in  September: 

Hyacinth,  Starry,  Scilla  autumnalis. 

Lily,  Guernsey,  Nerine  sarniensis. 

Lycoris  aurea. 

Saffron,    Meadow,    Colchicum   autumnale. 

Snowflake,   Autumn,   Leucoju>n   autumnale. 

Stcrnbergia  lutea. 
Six  of  the   most  popular  plants    with  tubers, 
rhizomes,  etc.: 

Begonia,  tuberous. 

Canna  spp. 

Dahlia  spp. 

Elephant's  Ear,  Colocasia  antiquorum ,  var. 
esculentum. 

Lily-of-the- valley,  Convallaria  majalis. 

Tuberose,  Polianthes  tubcrosa. 


AQUATIC       AND       BOG       PLANTS 
(See  Chapters  VIII  and  IX) 

Ten  of  the  most  popular  aquatics  (excluding 
water-lilies) : 
Arrowhead,  Sagittaria  spp. 
Arum,  Water,  Calla  spp. 
Cardinal  Flower,  Lobelia  cardinalis. 
Flag,  Blue,  Iris  spp. 

Floating-heart,  Limnanthcmum  lacunosuin. 
Lotus,  American,  Nelumbo  spp. 
Pickerel- weed,  Pontederia  spp. 


Appendix 


345 


Most  popular  aquatics — ( 'ontinued 
Swamp-pmk,  lieloiiias  biillata. 
Victoria  spp. 
Water-lily,  NymphcBa  spp. 

Four  aquatic    plants    for    bogs  and   gardens: 
Cardinal  Flower,  Lobelia  cardinalis. 
Flag,  Blue,  Iris  versicolor. 
Pitcher      Plant,      California,      Darlingtonia 

Californica. 
Swamp-pink,  Helonias  bullata. 

Four  aquatics  for  ponds: 

Floating-heart,  Limnanthemuin  lacunosuiii. 
Lotus,  American,  Nelunibo  lutea. 
Pondweed,  Cape,  Aponogeton  distachyum. 
Water-lily,  Nymphcea  odorata,  etc. 

Four  aquatics  that  bloom  in  May  or  earlier: 
Buck-bean,  Menyanthes  trijoliata. 
Goldenclub,  Orontinni  aquatic um. 
Marsh  Marigold,  Caltha  paliistris. 
Yellow  Flag,  Iris  Pseudacoriis. 

Four  aquatics  that  bloom  in  June: 
Arrowhead,  Sagittaria  lati folia. 
Arum,  Water,  Calla  palustris. 
Flag,  Blue,  Ins  versicolor. 
Water-lily,    Sweet    Scented,    Nymphcea 
odorata. 

Four  aquatics  that  bloom  in  July: 
Bur-reed,  Sparganiiini  raiuosuin. 
Floating-heart,  Liuinantheminii  lacunosurn. 
Nundo,  Ligusticum  actceij oliuin . 
Pickerel-weed,   Pontederia  cordata. 

Four  aquatics  that  bloom  in  August: 
Arrowhead,  Sagittaria  lati  folia. 
Hemlock,  Water,  Cicuta  maculata. 
Rice,  Indian  Water,  Zigania  miliacea. 
Sundew,  Drosera  rotundifolia. 

Four    aquatics  that   bloom  in   September  or 

later: 
Cardinal   Flower,   Lobelia   cardinalis. 
Pondweed,  Cape,  A ponogeton  distachyum. 
Sundew,   Drosera  filiformis. 
Water-lily,       Sweet       Scented,       Nymphcea 

odorata. 

Four   aquatics  less  than  one  foot   above  the 
pond  surface: 

Arum,  Water,  Calla  palustris. 

Floating-heart,   Limnanthcmum  lacunosurn. 

Pitcher      Plant,      California,      Darlingtonia 
Californica. 

Pondweed,  Cape,  A  ponogeton  distachyum. 
Four  aquatics  from  one  to  three  feet  high: 

Flag,  Blue,  Iris  versicolor. 

Pickerel- weed,  Pontederia  cordata. 

Pink,  Swamp,  Helonias  bullata. 

Turtlehead,  Chelone  glabra. 
Four  aquatics  more  than  three  feet  high: 

Aster,   Purple  Stem,  Aster  puniceus. 

Cat-tail,   Broad-leafed,    Typha  lati  folia. 

Nundo,  Ligusticum  actcsi folium. 

Rice,  Indian  Water,  Zigania  miliacea. 


Four  aquatics  hkely  to  spread  unduly: 
Arrowhead,  Sagittarta  spp. 
Cat-tail,   Typha  spp. 
Golden-club,  Oronttum  spp. 
Floating-heart,   Limnanthemum  lacunosurn. 


ALPINE  PLANTS  AND  ROCK  GARDENS 
(See  Chapter  X) 

Ten  of  the  most  popular  rock  plants: 

Baby's  Breath,  Gypsopliila   rcpens. 

Bluebells,   Ca)npannla   rotundifolia. 

Columbine,  Common,  Aquilegia  Canadensis. 

Daphne  Cneorum. 

Foxglove,  Digitalis  purpurea. 

Gas-plant,  Dictamnus  albus. 

Golden-tuft,  Alyssum  saxatile. 

Moss-pink,  Phlox  subulata. 

Poppy,  Iceland,  Pa  paver  nudicaule. 

Saxifraga  crassifolia. 
Four  rock  plants,  annuals: 

Clarkia  elegans. 

Daisy,  Swan  River,  Brachycome  iberidifolia. 

Gilia  micrantha. 

Linaria  alpina. 
Four  rock   plants,   herbaceous   perennials: 

Harebell,  Carpathian.  Campanula  carpatica. 

Lamp  Flower,  Lychnis  Alpina. 

Poppy,    Alpine,    Papaver   Alpinum. 

Rock-cress,  .Aubrietia  deltoidea. 
Four  shrubby  rock  plants: 

Barberry,  Creeping,  Berberis  repens. 

Crowberry,  Empetrum  nigrum. 

Dapline  Cneorum. 

Laurel,   Mountain,   Kalmia  laiifolia. 
Four   rock    plants    that    bloom    in    April   or 
earlier: 

Anemone  blanda. 

Bluebells,  Mertensia  pulmonarioides. 

Daphne  Cneorum. 

Whitlow-grass,  Draba  Alpina. 
Four  rock  plants  that  bloom  in  May: 

Rock-cress,  Arabis  albida. 

Moss-pink,  Phlox  subulata. 

Alpine  Anemone,  Anemone  Alpina. 

Stellaria  gra)ninea. 
Four  rock  plants  that  bloom  in  June: 

Bunchberry,  Cornus  Canadensis. 

Columbine,  Alpine,  Aquilegia  Alpina. 

Easter  Bell,  Stellaria  Holostea. 

Rock-cress,  Aubrietia  deltoidea. 
Four  rock  plants  that  bloom  in  July: 

Blazing-star,  Liatris  spicata. 

Catchfly,  German,  Lichnis  Viscaria. 

Lobelia  syphilitica. 

Stonecrop,  Sedum  acre. 
Four  rock  plants  that  bloom  in  August: 

Anemone  Japonica. 

Poppy,  Iceland,  Papaver  nudicaule. 

Sedum  ternatum. 

Spraguea  umbellata. 


346 


How  to  Make  a  flower  Garden 


Four  rock  plants  that  bloom  in  September: 
Alder,  White,  CLethra  alnifolia. 
Anemone  Japonica. 
Cardinal  Flower,  Lobelia   cardinalis. 
Sedum,  Showy,  Seduni  spectabile. 

Four   rock  plants   that  bloom  in  October  or 
later: 
Goldentuft,  Alyssiini  saxatile. 
Popp)-,  Iceland,  Papavcr  niidicaidc. 
Poppv-mallow,  Callirhoc  involiicrata 
Sedum,  Showy,  Sedum  spectabile. 


WINDOW-GARDEN  PLANTS 
(See  Chapter  XI) 

Ten  of  the  most  popular  window-garden  plants : 
Abutilon  spp. 
Begonia  spp. 

Calla,  Richardia  Africana. 
Cyclamen  Persicum. 
Fuchsia  spp. 

Geranium,   Pelargonium   spp. 
Heliotrope,  Heliotropium   spp. 
Oxalis  spp. 

Primrose,  Chinese,  Primula  Sinensis. 
Rubber  Plant,  Ficus  elastica. 

Ten    window    plants    that    may     be    trans- 
planted from  the  garden: 
Ageraium  spp. 
Abutilon  spp. 
Alyssum  spp. 
Begonia  spp. 
Candytuft,  Iberis  spp. 
Coleus    spp. 
Fuchsia  spp. 

Geranium,  Pelargonium  spp. 
Heliotrope,  Heliotropium  spp. 
Lobelia  Erinus. 

Ten  window  plants  that  will  stand  extremes  of 
neglect  and  coddling: 
Agave  Americana. 
Begonia  spp.  (shrubby). 
Calla,  Richardia  Africana. 
Chinese  Primrose,  Primula  Sinensis. 
Cocos  Weddelliana. 
Cyclamen  Latijohum. 
Geranium,  Pelargoniuni  spp. 
Grevillea  robiista. 
Livistona  Chinensis. 
Rubber  Plant,  Ftcus  elastica. 

Ten  vines  for  window  gardens : 
Asparagus  plumosus. 
Asparagus  S  pre  tiger  i. 
Ground  Ivy,  Nepeta  Glechoma. 
Honeybell,  Mahernia  verticillata. 
Kenilworth  Ivy,  Linaria  Cymbalaria. 
Moneywort,  Lysiniachia  nummularia. 
Periwinkle,  Vinca  major. 
Smilax,  Asparagus  medcoloidcs. 
Wandering  Jew,  Zebrina  pendula. 
White  Cud,  Nierenibergia  rivularis. 


Ten  bulbs  for  window  gardens: 
Begonia,  tuberous. 
Crocus  spp. 
Cyclamen  Laiifolium. 
Freesia  spp. 

Hyacinth,  Hyacinthus  spp. 
Iris,  Spanish,  Iris  Xiphium. 
Narcissus,  Chinese,  Narcissus  Tazetta  var. 
Narcissus,     Paperwhite,    Narcissus    Tazetta 

var. 
Oxalis  spp. 
Tulip,  Tulipa  spp. 

Ten  window  plants  for  hanging  baskets: 
Artillery-plant,  Pilea  serpyllifolia. 
Alyssum  spp. 
Centaurea  spp. 
Cerasiium  iomentosum. 
Draccena  terminalis. 
Lobelia  Erinus. 
Alaurandia  Barclaiana. 
Nasturtium,  Dwarf,  Tropccolum  spp. 
Periwinkle,  Vtnca  major. 
Wandering  Jew,  Zebrina  pendula 


GREENHOUSE   PLANTS  (See  Chapter  XII) 

Ten  flowering  greenhouse  plants: 

Azalea  Indica. 

Bouvardia  spp. 

Cereus  grandiflorus. 

Erica  spp. 

Hibiscus,  Chinese,  Hibiscus  Rosa-Sinensis. 

Hydrangea  hortensis. 

IpomoEa  HorsfallicE. 

Olive,  Fragrant,  Osmanthus  (Olea)  jragrans. 

Piqueria  (Stevia)  trinerva. 

Stephanotis  floribunda. 
Ten  plants  suitable  for  coldframes: 

Anemone  spp. 

Daisv,  Bellis   perennis. 

"Dutch  Bulbs" 

Forget-me-not,  Myosotis  palustrt 

Mignonette,  Reseda  spp. 

Pansy,  Viola  tricolor. 

Pea,  Sweet,  Lathyrus  odoratus. 

Polyanthus,  Primula  elatior. 

Stocks,  Matthiola  incana  var.  annua. 

Violet,  Viola  odorata. 
Six  tender  shrubs  to   be   stored   over   winter 
in  pits  or  cellars: 

Azaleas,   for   May  bloom. 

Genista,  Cytisus  Canariensis. 

Poinsettia,  Euphorbia  pulcherima. 

Star      Jasmine,      Trachelospermuni     jasmi- 
noides. 
Ten  plants  that  may  be  started  in  a   hotbed 
for  early  spring  flowers: 

Ageratum,  Ageratum  conyzoides. 

Alyssum,  Sweet,  Alyssum  maritinutm . 

California   Poppy,  Eschscholzia  Californica. 

Candytuft,  Iberis  spp. 

Clarkia  elegans. 


Appendix 


347 


Plants  started  in  a  hotbed — Continued 
Godetia,  CEiiothcra  spy. 
Marigold,   Tagctcs  spp. 
Nasturtium,  Dwarf,  Tropccohtm  spp. 


Nentophila  spp. 
Stock,  Ten  Weeks, 


Alatthiola  incana,  var. 


Ten  bulbs  for  the  greenhouse : 
Agapanthus  spp. 
Aiiiaryllis  spp. 
Crinuin  spp. 
Dioscorea  spp. 
Easter  Lily,  Bermuda,  Liliniii  longiflornin, 

var.  eximiiim. 
Gloxinia  spp. 
Ixia  spp. 
Nerine  spp. 
Richardia  spp. 
Tuberose,  Polianthcs  iiiberosa. 

Ten  foliage  plants  for  the  greenhouse: 
Araucaria  cxcclsa. 
Aspidistra  lurida,  var.  variegata. 
Croton  {Codceium)  spp. 
Draccsna  marginata. 
Dieffenbachia  spp. 

Elephant's  Ear,  Colocasia  autiqiioritni. 
Jacobina  nmgnifica. 
Pandanus  utilis. 
Plurnix  dactylifera. 
Rubber  Plant,  Picas  elastica. 

Ten  vines  for  the  greenhotise: 

Allamanda  Hendersoni. 

Boiigainvillea  glabra  var.  Sanderiana. 

Cissiis  discolor. 

Clerodendron  Thorn psontc. 

Hoy  a  carnosa. 

Lapageria  rosea. 

Passiflora  racentosa. 

Plumbago  capcnsis. 

Solan lun  jasniinoides. 

T lumber gia  laitrifolia. 


PLANTS     FOR     FORMAL     GARDENING 

(See    Chapter    XV) 

Ten  bedding  plants  for  subtropical  effects: 
Acalypha  marginata. 
Arundo  Donax. 
Canna  spp. 

Castor-bean,  Ricinus  communis. 
Croton  (Codiczum)   spp. 
Elephant's  Ear,  Colocasia  aniiquorum. 
Grcvillea  robusta. 

MiscantJius  Sinensis,  var.  zcbrinus. 
Pampas  Grass,  Cortaderia  argcutca. 
Pandanus  utilis. 

Ten  shrubs  and  trees,  etc.,  grown  in  tubs  for 
porch  decoration: 
Bay,  Laurus  nobilis. 
Centurj^-plant,  Agave  Americana. 
Hydrangea  hortensis,  var.  Otaska. 


Shrubs  and  trees  for  porch  decoration — Con- 
tinued 
Livistonia  Sinensis. 
Oleander,  Xeriuin  oleander. 
Pandanus  utilis. 
Pandanus  X'eitchii. 
Phoenix  spp. 
Privet,  Ligustrum  spp. 
Rhapis  flabelliformis. 

Ten  plants  for  roof-gardens,  etc.: 
Areca  spp. 
Aspidistra. 
Begonia  rex. 
Caladium  spp. 
Cocos  Weddelliana. 
Dracaena  spp. 
Kentia  spp. 
Pandanus  spp. 
Sanseveria  Zeylanica. 
Vine  a  spp. 

Ten  plants  for  vases: 
Achyranthes  spp. 
Centaurea  Cineraria. 
Coleus  spp. 
Cordyline  indivisa. 
Geranium,  Pelargonium  spp. 
Helichrysum  petiolatum. 
Lobelia  Erinus. 
Nasturtium,   TropcBolwn  spp. 
Periwinkle,  Vinca  spp. 
Senecio  mikanioides. 

Bedding  plants  for  carpet  bedding: 
Red  foilage: 

Acalypha  tricolor. 
Iresine  Lindeni. 
Alternanthera  amcena  spectabilis. 
Altcrnanthcra  versicolor. 

Yellow  foliage: 
Iresine  aurea  reticulata. 
Alternanthera  aurea  nana. 
Coleus,  golden. 
P yrethrum  parthenifolium  aureuni. 

Whitish  foliage: 

Cciiliuirea  gynniocarpa. 
i  'iiicraria  nniriliina. 
luhcreriii  scciinda  glauca. 
Geranium,  Pelargonium  spp. 

Height  less  than  one  foot: 

Altcruanlhcra  paronychioides. 
('iiicriiria  iinirilinia. 
[{chcvcria    met  all  ic  a. 
Oxalis  tropoeloides. 

Height  from  one  to  two  feet: 
Acalypha  marginata. 
Centaurea. 

Coleus  Verschaffeltii. 
Pyrethruin  parthen:folium  aitreutn. 

Blue  flowers: 

Ageratum  conyzoides. 
Heliotrope,   Heliotropitun  spp. 


348 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


Bedding  plants — Continued 

White  flowers: 
Agcratuni  coiiy^oidcs. 
Alyssum,  Sweet,  Alyssitin  inaritimum. 
Phlox  Druiniuo)idii. 
Verbena  spp. 

Red  flowers: 
Begonia  Vernon. 
Ciiphea  tricolor. 
Phlox  Druminondii. 
Salvia  splendens. 


Perennials  from  Japan — Continued 

Petasites  Japonica,  var.  gigantea. 

Sedunt  Siebaldii 

Thcrinopsis  fabacea. 
Six  hardy  bulbs  from  Japan: 

Black  Lil}',  Fritillaria  Camschatccnsis. 

Lilium  speciosum. 

Lily,  Tiger,  Lilium  tigrintini. 

Lycoris  sanguinea. 

Lycoris  squamigera. 

Narcissus  Tasetta. 


PLANTS    FROM   JAPAN 
(See  Chapter  XVI) 

Comparatively  few  people  can  afford  a 
"Japanese  garden,"  but  no  one  need  deprive 
himself  of  a  "Japanese  comer"  or  "Japanese 
border"  in  which  the  most  interesting  plants 
of  Japan  may  be  grown  by  themselves 
according  to  American  floricultural  methods. 
No  equal  area  in  the  world  furnishes  so  large 
a  list  of  desirable  ornamental  plants  as  Japan. 
Ten  of  the  flowers  most  popular  in  Japan: 

Apricot,  Japanese,  Primus  Munic. 

Cherry,  Prunus  Pseudo-Cerasus. 

Chrysanthemum  spp. 

Iris,  Japanese,  Iris  laevigata. 

Lily,  Japanese,  Lilium  auratum. 

Maple      (autumn      leaves      considered      as 
"flowers"). 

Morning-glory,  I pomoea  spp. 

Peony,  Pcconia  spp. 

Plum,  Japanese,  Prunus  iriflora. 

Quince,  Japanese,  Cydonia  Japonica. 
Six  shrubs  from  Japan: 

Aucuba  Japonica. 

Bamboo,   Bambusa  pygmcea 

Cherry,  Flowering,  Prunus  Pseudo-Cerasus. 

Fatsia     Japonica      (Japanese      rice     paper 
plant). 

Ligustrum  Japonicuni. 

Rhodotypos  Kerrioides. 
Twenty  perennials  from  Japan  suited  for  the 
hardy  border: 

A)icinone  cernua. 

Anemone  Japonica. 

Aralia  cordaia. 

Aquilegia  Buergeriana. 

Aster  Tataricus. 

Astilbe  Japonica. 

Campanula  punctata. 

Dicentra  spectabilis. 

Epimedium  ntacranthum. 

Eulalia,  Miscanthus  spp. 

Funkia  spp. 

Hemerocallis  spp. 

Iris  Icevigata. 

Lily,  Japanese,  Lilium  auratum. 

Ophiopogon  spp. 

Peon3^   PcBonia  officinalis. 

Peony  Tree,  Pceonia  Moutan. 


WILD     GARDENS     (See  Chapter  XVII) 

Six  choice  wild  flowers  and  ferns: 

These  plants  should  not  be  taken  from  the 

wild     even     for     garden      purposes.       If 

ordered    from   dealers,   be   sure   they   are 

nursery-grown,   not  collected. 
All      native      orchids,      especially     Lady's- 

slippers,  Cypripedium  spp. 
Arbutus,  Trailing,  Epigcea  repots. 
Fringed  Gentian,  Gentiana  cri)iita. 
Hartford  Fern,  Lygodium  palmatum. 
Laurel,  Giant,  Rhododendron  maximum. 
Walking  Fern,  Ca)npiosorus  rJiizophyllus. 
Six    wild    flowers    of    easy    cultivation    that 

bloom  in  eai-ly  spring: 
Bloodroot,  Sanguinaria  Canadensis. 
Everlasting,  Antennaria  plantaginifolia. 
Hepatic  a  triloba. 

Squirrel  Corn,  Dicentra  Canadensis. 
Spring  Beauty,  Claytonia  Virginica. 
Wind-fiower,  Anemone  nemorosa. 
Six  robust-growing  plants  of  the  class  which 

the  beginner  should  start  with: 
Artichoke,  Jerusalem,  Helianthus  iuberosus. 
Elder,  common,  Sambucus  Canadotsis. 
Joe-Pye-weed,  Eupaiorium  purpurcuin. 
Poppy,  Plume,  Bocconia  cordaia. 
Rudbcckia  laciniata. 
Teasel,  Fuller's,  Dipsacus  fulkmum. 
Six  wild  flowers  that  are  easily  grown   from 

seed: 
Bloodroot,  Sanguinaria  Canadoisis. 
Cardinal  Flower,  I^ohclia  cardinalis. 
Columbine,  Aquilci^iu  Canadensis. 
Cone-flower,  Rudbcckia  liirta. 
Aster,  New  England,  Aster  Novcc  Anglce. 
Sunflower,  Graceful,  Helianthus  orgyalis. 
Six  hardy   exotic   perennials   that   are   easily 

raised  from  seed  and  are  suitable  for  the 

wild  garden: 
Aquilegia  atro purpurea. 
Larkspur,  Delphinium  formosum. 
Poppy,  Iceland,  Papaver  nudicaule. 
Rock-cress,   Arabis  albida. 
Rocket,  Sweet,  Hesperis  matronalis. 
Snapdragon,  Antirrhinum  ma  jus. 
Six  wild  flowers  that  will  bloom    in    April  or 

earlier: 
Anemone  nemorosa  (wind  flower). 


Appendix 


349 


Wild  flowers — Continued 

Everlasting,  Antennaria  plantaginijolia. 

Spring  Beauty,  Claytonia  virgintca. 
^   Hepatic  a  triloba. 

SanguDiaria  Canadensis,   bloodroot. 

Squirrel  Corn,  Dicentra  Canadensis. 
Six  wild  flowers  that  bloom  in  May: 

Everlasting,   Antennaria  planiagi'nijolia. 

Columbine,   Aquilegia   Canadensis. 

Jack-in-the-Pulpit,  Ariscstna  triphyllum. 

Sweet-william,  wild,   Phlo.x  macitlata. 

Wake  Robin,   Trillin  in  grand  ifloruin. 

Yellow  Water  Crowfoot,'  Rannncnlus  niitlii 
fidus. 
Six  wild  flowers  that  bloom  in   June: 

Common  Elder,  Sanihnciis  Canadensis. 

Coneflower,  Ritdbeckia  hirta. 

Fragrant  Balm,  Monarda  didyma. 

Great  Solomon's  Seal   Polygonatuin   gigan- 
teiim. 

Shooting-star,  Dodecatheon  Meadia. 

Tall  Buttercup,  Ranunculus  acris. 
Six  wild  flowers  that  bloom  in  Julv: 

Adam's  Needle,   Yticca  filanientos'a. 

Bouncing  Bet,  Saponaria  officinalis. 

Butterweed,  Erigcron   Canadensis. 

Cone-flower,   Ritdbeckia    speciosa. 

Monkey-flower  Miiniilns  tigrinus. 

Purple  Cone-flower,  Echinacea  purpurea. 

Virgin's  Bower,  Clematis  Virginiana. 
Six  wild  flowers  that  bloom  in  August: 

Buttonbush,  Cephalanthns  occidentalis. 


Wild  flowers — Continued 

Cone-flower,  Rudbeckia  laciniata. 
Elecampane,  Inula  Hcleniiun. 
Fuller's  Teasel,  Dipsacus  jullonum. 
Great  Lobelia,  Lobelia  syphilitica. 
Joe-Pye-weed,  Eupaiorium  purpureum. 
Six  wild  flowers  that  bloom  in  September: 
Blazing-star,  Liatris  squarrosa. 
Boneset,  Eupaiorium   perjoliatum. 
Cardinal  Flower,  Lobelia  cardinalis. 
Cone-flower,  Rudbeckia  triloba. 
Po])]))-,   Plume,  Bocconia  cordata. 
1  ruin|u;t-civrper,  Tecoma  radtcans. 
Six  wild  flowers  that  bloom  in  October: 
Dais\-  Fleabane,  Erigcron  sirigosus. 
Golden  Aster,  Chrysopsis  gramimjolia. 
Goldcnrod  {Solidago  spp.). 
Starwort,  Aster  spp. 
Sunfli )\vcr,    Hclianthus 
Swamp-flower,    Helianthus  angustifolius. 
Witch-hazel,  Hamamehs. 
Six  attractive  wild   flowers,  in  bark,   berries, 

etc.,  from  November  to  spring: 
Celastrus  scandens. 
Laurel,    Giant    Holly,    Ilex.    Rhododendron 

ina.xiniuin. 
Red-branched     Dogwood     (Cornus    stoloni- 

jera) . 
Spindle  Tree  (Euonymus). 
Thorns,   Cratcegus,  various   red-fruited  spp. 

ROSES  (For  lists,  See  Chapter  XVIII) 


APPENDIX  II 


HOW  TO   GROW   FLOWERS 


Brief  directions  for  cultivating  one  hundred 
and  fifty  of  the  commonest  and  most  desir- 
able flowers,  mostly  annuals  and  perennials. 


By  M.  G.  KAINS 


APPENDIX   II 


Abutilon.  See  Flowering  Maple. 
Aconite,  Winter.  Plant  the  bulbs  abotit 
two  inches  deep  in  any  garden  soil  in  inid- 
autumn  and  do  not  disturb  unless  they  are 
desired  in  new  quarters.  Then,  after  the 
foliage  has  turned  yellow,  dig,  dry  in  the 
shade,  clean,  and  store  in  a  dry,  airy  rooni 
until    planting   time. 

Adam's  Needle.      See  Yucca. 

Ageratum.  Sow  seeds  in  greenhouse  or 
hotbed,  and  when  about  two  inches  high 
transplant  six  inches  apart ;  or,  for  later  bloom, 
sow  in  the  garden  when  the  soil  becomes 
warm.  For  winter  bloom,  sow  in  August. 
Will  grow  in  any  good  garden  soil. 

AjuGA.     See  Bugleweed. 

Alyssum,  Sweet.  Sow  seeds  in  green- 
house or  hotbed  in  spring  and  transplant 
when  two  inches  high  to  any  garden  soil; 
for  later  bloom  sow  in  garden  when  soil 
becomes  warm.  For  winter,  sow  in  August. 
Also  readih-  propagated  by  cuttings  of  young 
shoots  placed  in  sandy  shaded  soil.  Divisions 
and  layers  also  may  be  made. 

Amaranth.  Cultivate  like  Prince's- 
feather,  which  see. 

Anemone.  Plant  tuberous  species  in  the 
hardy  border  in  mid-autumn  and  the  other 
species  in  rockeries,  etc.,  choosing  a  well- 
drained,  fairly  rich  sandy  loam  if  possible. 
The  plants  may  be  divided  in  autumn  or 
spring  when  the  clumps  have  become  Aveedy 
or  too  large  for  their  quarters.  For  indoor 
blooming  in  winter  the  tubers  may  be  potted 
from  September  to  October  and  managed 
like  hyacinths  or  tulips.  B}-  judicious  man- 
agement a  succession  of  bloom  may  be 
obtained  from  January  imtil  the  outdoor 
cluinps  commence  to  blossom  in  the  spring. 

Anthemis.      See   Marguerite,   Golden. 

Antirrhinum.      See   Snapdragon. 

Apios.     See  Ground-nut. 

Aquilegia.      See  Columbine. 

Arabis.     See  Cress,  Rock. 

Arundo.      See   Reed,  Giant. 

Asparagus  (.4.  Sprcngcri).  Plant  seeds 
in  ordinary  potting  soil  at  any  time  during 
the  winter,  transplant  the  seedlings  when 
large  enough  to  small  pots,  and  keep  them 
growing  vigorously  in  frequently  changed 
larger  pots,  or  while  small  place  in  hanging 
baskets,  along  the  edges  of  benches,  etc. 
May  be  propagated  by  division.  Does 
best  in  a  moderately  cool  greenhouse  or 
room        Very     easily     managed.       The     red 


berries  are  beautiful,  but  they  sap  the 
strength  of  a  plant.  If  the  green  plant  is 
preferred,  pick  off  the  young  berries. 

Aster,  China.  For  earliest  bloom  sow 
the  seed  in  a  coldframe  in  autumn,  and 
protect  the  plants  until  the  ground  can  be 
worked  in  the  spring,  when  they  may  be 
transplanted  about  a  foot  apart.  These 
should  blossom  in  late  spring  or  early  summer. 
A  successional  sowing  may  be  made  under 
glass  in  the  winter,  and  the  plants  set  in  the 
garden  when  danger  of  frost  has  passed. 
Usually,  however,  the  seed  is  sown  in  a  cold- 
frame  in  early  spring,  and  the  plants,  when 
about  three  or  four  inches  tall,  transferred 
to  the  garden  in  late  spring.  These  will 
blossom  in  late  summer.  Asters  thrive  best 
in  rich  soil. 

Asters.  Native.  Sow  the  seeds  in  a  cold- 
frame  in  earl}^  spring,  and  when  the  plants  are 
about  three  inches  tall  transplant  about 
eighteen  inches  apart  in  clumps.  Established 
clumps  may  be  divided  in  autumn  and  the 
pieces  reset.  Greenwood  cuttings  root 
readily. 

Aubrietia.  Sow  seeds  where  the  plants 
are  to  remain  and  thin  to  about  six  inches. 
When  once  established,  further  propagation 
may  be  made  by  means  of  cuttings  or  layers. 

Baby's  Breath  {Gypsophila).  Sow  seeds 
in  early  spring  in  a  mild  hotbed  or  green- 
house; transplant  the  seedlings  when  about 
two  inches  tall  to  small  pots,  and  again  to 
any  garden  soil  when  the  weather  becomes 
settled.  For  winter  bloom,  seeds  may  be 
sown  in  late  summer,  when  cuttings  or  layers 
of   the   perennial  species   may  also  be  made. 

Bachelor's-buttons  {Ranunculus  acris, 
var.  florc  plcno).  Sow  seeds  in  mild  hotbed 
or  greenhouse  in  early  spring;  transplant 
the  seedlings  to  small  pots  when  about  two 
inches  tall,  and  when  the  weather  becomes 
settled  transplant  to  good  soil  in  the 
garden.  After  once  becoming  established, 
the  clumps  maj-  be  divided  in  spring.  See 
also  Globe-flower,  Cornflower. 

Balloon-vine  {Cardiospermum).  After 
danger  of  frost  has  passed,  sow  in  ordinary 
garden  soil  and  provide  a  wire  trellis  from 
five  to  ten  feet  high,  according  to  the  qtiality 
of  the  soil. 

Balm,  Fragrant  (Moiiarda  didynia).  Sow 
seeds  in  spring  and  transplant  to  permanent 
quarters  when  the  plants  become  large  enough. 
A    moist    rich    situation    is    most    favorable. 


353 


354 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


Plant  in  masses  for  distant  observation,  since 
the  flowers  are  rather  unkempt.  Divide 
frequently,  because  the  plants  spread  rapidly 
from  their  underground  stems. 

Balsam  {Impatiens).  Sow  seed  in  mild 
hotbed  in  early  spring  or  when  spring  opens 
in  the  garden.  Transplant  the  seedlings 
when  about  two  inches  high,  the  early  ones 
to  small  pots,  the  later  ones  to  the  beds,  which 
should  be  good  garden  soil  in  sunny  places. 
For  winter,  cuttings  may  be  made  in  late 
summer  or  early  autumn  and  the  plants  kept 
in  rather  warm  quarters.  Cuttings  may  also 
be  made  of  the  greenhouse  plants  for  out- 
door use. 

Bartonia.     See  Poppy,  Mexican. 

Bean,  Hyacinth  (Dolichos).  Sow  like 
morning-glory  (which  see) ,  but  provide  a 
taller  and  stronger  trellis,  since  the  twining 
vines  often  grow  more  than  fifteen  feet. 

Beard-tongue  {Pentstemon).  Sow  seeds 
in  a  mild  hotbed  or  greenhouse  in  early 
spring;  transplant  to  flats  or  small  pots,  and 
when  the  weather  becomes  settled  set  in  the 
garden.  Some  species  do  best  in  partial 
shade,  but  most  can  stand  the  sun.  All  need 
moist  soil,  but  are  not  partial  to  quality  of 
soil.  Many  are  grown  as  annuals,  but  the 
perennial  kinds  may  be  propagated  by 
division. 

Bee-balm.      See  Balm,  Fragrant. 

Begonia  (shrubby  or  fibrous-rooted  kinds). 
Easily  grown  from  cuttings  of  firm  green 
wood,  which,  when  rooted,  may  be  planted 
in  ordinary  potting  soil.  Frequent  changes 
of  pots  and  additions  of  fresh  soil  are  necessary, 
and  so  are  light  and  fresh  air.  Cuttings  take'n 
in  February  and  kept  growing  vigorously 
should  become  fine  plants  by  the  following 
winter,  during  the  latter  part  of  which  they 
should  blossom  freely. 

Blazing-star  {Liatris).  Plant  seeds  in 
ordinary  soil  in  the  autumn,  and  in  the 
spring  thin  or  transplant  the  seedlings  to 
stand  from  one  to  two  feet  apart,  according 
to  variety.  Though  doing  best  upon  good 
soil,  the  plants  will  yield  well  upon  soil  too 
poor  for  most  garden  flowers.  When  once 
established,  they  may  be  increased  by  means 
of  offsets.      See  also  Montbretia. 

Bleeding-heart  {Dicentra).  Plant  roots 
when  the  ground  can  be  worked  in  spring, 
choosing  rather  good  soil.  The  plants  d"o 
well  for  years  without  further  attention  than 
an  annual  manuring  and  the  removal  of 
weeds. 

Bluebells  {Mertensia).  Sow  seed  as 
soon  as  ripe,  where  the  plants  are  to  remain 
in  rich  loamy  soil  sheltered  from  the  wind, 
but  exposed  to  the  sun.  Do  not  disturb. 
Leaves  die  after  the  plants  flower.  Plants 
do  not  propagate  well  by  division. 

Bluebottle.     See  Cornflower. 

Bluet.     See  Cornflower. 


Bocconia.     See  Poppy,  Plume. 

Bugbane  {Ciinicifuga).  Sow  seeds  in  fall 
or  spring  where  the  plants  are  to  stand, 
choosing  the  rear  of  borders  and  places 
where  the  bad  smell  of  the  plants  will  not  be 
noticed,  and  where  the  attractive  foliage  and 
flowers  will  show  off  well.  Thin  the  plants 
to  stand  from  two  to  four  feet  apart.  Estab- 
lished plants  may  be  divided  in  fall  or  spring. 

Bugleweed.  Easily  propagated  by  divi- 
sion or  by  seeds.  Ajuga  re  plans  succeeds  well 
in  shady  places,  but  may  spread  too  fast. 

Bulbocodium.  Plant  the  bulbs  m  early 
autumn,  choosing  rather  light,  fairly  rich 
soil  and  sinking  the  bulbs  two  inches  deep. 
Allow  the  foliage  to  die  naturally  each  spring 
after  flowering.  Every  second  or  third 
year  dig  up,  clean,  store  in  a  cool,  airy  place 
until  planting  time.  Does  well  m  lawns, 
since  the  foliage  usually  dies  before  the  lawn 
needs  mowing.  It  should  bloom  a  week 
before  the  crocuses. 

BuRNiNG-BUSH.      See  Gas-plant. 

Butterfly-flower  {Schizanthus) .  Sow 
seeds  in  a  mild  hotbed  or  greenhouse  in  early 
spring,  transplant  the  seedlings  when  about 
two  inches  tall  to  small  pots,  and  when  the 
weather  becomes  settled  place  in  the  garden 
in  any  good  soil.  They  may  also  be  sown 
in  the  open  ground  if  desired.  Allow  about 
a  foot  between  plants.  For  winter  bloom 
sow  seed  in  midsummer  and  transplant 
frequentl}^  as  the  plants  need  more  pot  space. 
They  should  flower  from  mid-winter  till 
spring. 

Butterfly  Pea.      See  Centrosema. 

Caladium.      See  Elephant's  Ear. 

Calceolaria.  The  hybrid  kinds  may  be 
grown  from  seed  sown  in  the  greenhouse  in 
late  winter,  the  seedlings  being  transferred 
to  pots  as  soon  as  they  are  large  enough  to 
handle,  and  set  in  rather  shady  locations 
when  the  weather  becomes  settled.  The 
plants  are  usually  grown  as  greenhouse 
specimens,  the  seeds  being  sown  in  mid- 
summer in  partial  shade.  For  best  results 
they  should  receive  no  check,  but  be  given 
rather  frequent  changes  of  pots  until  near 
flowering  time,  when  they  may  be  allowed 
to  become  pot-bound. 

Calliopsis.  a  popular  name  for  certain 
kinds  of  Coreopsis,  which  see. 

Callirhoe.     See  Poppy-mallow. 

Campion.     See  Lychnis. 

Candytuft,  Annual  {Alyssuw).  Sow  seeds 
in  greenhouse  or  hotbed,  and  when  about 
two  inches  high  transplant  from  six  to  twelve 
inches  apart  in  good  garden  soil;  for  later  blos- 
soms sow  when  the  soil  becomes  warm;  for 
winter,  sow  in  August.  Biennial  and  perennial 
species  and  varieties  are  also  propagated  as 
above,  but  the  latter  are  more  frequently 
reproduced  by  stem  cuttings  in  the  green- 
house or  bv  division. 


Appendix 


355 


Canna  File  holes  in  the  seeds  and 
soak  them  m  warm  water  for  about  a  day 
before  sowing  singly  in  pots  under  glass  in 
late  winter.  When  six  or  eight  inches  tall, 
transplant  from  two  to  six  feet  apart  in  any 
soil,  light  and  rich  preferred.  In  autumn 
dig  up  the  clumps,  dry  them  for  a  few  days 
in  an  open  shed,  and  store  in  a  warm,  dry, 
airy  cellar.  During  winter  divide  the 
clumps  of  desirable  seedlings  or  of  named 
varieties,  allowing  at  least  one  eye  to  each 
piece,  and  plant  in  pots  for  transplanting 
to  the  garden  in  late  spring.  These  give 
earliest  effects.  The  divisions  or  the  whole 
clumps  may  be  set  direct  in  the  garden,  but 
are  later  in  producing  effects. 

Cardinal  Flower  {Lobelia  cardinalis) . 
Sow  seeds  under  glass  in  late  winter,  and 
when  a  few  inches  tall  transplant  to  moist 
soil,  especially  on  the  borders  of  marshes  and 
streams.  When  once  established  they  will 
continue  from  year  to  year.  Strong  plants 
may  be  divided;  and  vigorous,  stocky  shoots 
may  be  used  for  greenwood  cuttings.  When 
used  in  beds  and  borders,  the  plants  should 
stand  at  least  eighteen  inches  apart. 

Cardiospermum.      See  Balloon-vine. 

Castor-oil  Bean.  Start  seed  in  hotbed 
singly  in  pots  and  transplant  from  four  to  ten 
feet  apart,  when  about  six  inches  tall,  after 
danger  of  frost  has  past,  or  sow  direct  in 
garden  when  soil  becomes  warm.  Dry,  rich, 
deep   soil  is  best. 

Catananche.  Sow  seeds  in  a  mild  hotbed 
or  greenhouse  in  early  spring,  transplant  the 
seedlings  when  about  two  inches  tall,  and 
again  to  the  garden  when  the  weather  becomes 
settled.  Seeds  may  also  be  planted  where 
the  plants  are  to  remain.  Allow  about 
eighteen  inches  between  plants.  They  do 
well  in  light  soil. 

Celosia.     See  Cockscomb. 

Centrosema.  Sow  seed  in  early  spring, 
choosing  sandy  soil  where  the  plants  are  to 
remain.  Provide  a  wire  trellis  upon  which 
the  vines  may  twine  five  or  six  feet. 

Chamomile.     See  Marguerite,  Golden. 

Chionodoxa.     See  Glory  of  the  Snow. 

Chrysanthemum  {C.  coronariiim) .  Sow 
the  seed  in  a  hotbed  in  early  spring,  and 
when  a  few  inches  tall  transplant  about 
twelve  inches  apart  in  ordinary  soil.  A  later 
sowing  may  be  made  where  the  plants  are 
to  stand  in  the  garden,  the  excess  being 
weeded  out.  Judicious  pinching  back  tends 
to  make  the  plants  more  shapely. 

CiMiciFUGA.     See  Bugbane. 

Clarkia.  For  earliest  bloom  where  winters 
are  mild  sow  seeds  in  early  autumn ;  for  next 
early,  sow  in  earliest  spring,  and  for  suc- 
cession sow  when  g  ^und  has  become  warm. 
When  about  three  inches  tall  transplant 
about  twelve  inches  apart  in  any  soil. 

Clematis.     Set    nursery-grown    plants    in 


rich,  light  loam,  provide  trellis  for  the 
climbing  kinds,  give  annual  applications  of 
manure,  and  mulch  with  Utter  during  winter. 
Often  the  native  species  may  be  obtained 
in  the  woods.  Small  plants  should  be 
selected  in  such  cases.  Do  not  take  them  if 
they  are  rare  in  your  neighbourhood. 

Canterbury  Bells.  Sow  seed  in  green- 
house or  hotbed  in  early  spring;  transplant 
the  seedlings  as  they  need  it  and  set  in  the 
open  ground  after  the  weather  has  become 
settled,  allowing  two  feet  apart  in  ordinarily 
good  soil.  They  may  be  expected  to  produce 
some  blossoms  the  first  season,  but  are  more 
prolific  in  the  following  year.  They  are  often 
sown  in  the  open  ground,  but  in  this  case  do 
not  usually  blossom  until  the  second  season. 

CoBCEA  scANDENS.  Sow  the  Seed  in  late 
winter  and  water  sparingly  till  germination 
is  complete;  transplant  the  seedlings  when 
about  two  inches  tall  to  small  pots  and  set  them 
in  the  open  after  danger  of  frost  has  passed. 
Provide  a  twenty-foot  wire  trellis.  Green- 
wood cuttings  in  sandy  soil  and  gentle  heat 
may  be  taken  from  plants  growing  in  the 
greenhouse. 

Cockscomb  {Celosia).  Sow  seed  in  early 
spring  in  a  mild  hotbed  or  greenhouse;  trans- 
plant the  seedlings  when  about  two  inches 
tall  to  small  pots  or  flats,  and  when  danger 
of  frost  has  passed  set  in  the  garden  from 
six  to  eighteen  inches  apart  according  to 
variety.  If  the  plants  ever  suffer  for  want 
of  water,  they  will  drop  their  leaves.  Plant 
in  light,  rich,  deep,  moist  soil.  For  winter 
bloom  sow  in  late  summer. 

CoLEUS.  Take  cuttings  from  garden-grown 
plants  before  danger  of  frost.  When  they 
have  struck  root,  which  they  do  readily, 
plant  in  good  potting  soil  in  small  pots  and 
shift  to  larger  ones  as  the  plants  require 
room.  They  do  best  and  have  the  most 
brilliant  colours  in  bright  sunlight  and  warm 
rooms  or  greenhouses.  For  outdoor  planting 
the  cuttings  are  rooted  in  midwinter  and  the 
plants  brought  forward  to  three-  or  four-inch 
pots,  from  which  they  are  set  in  the  open 
ground  about  a  foot  apart  for  the  smaller 
kinds  and  eighteen  inches  for  the  larger. 
In  a  moderately  rich  sandy  loam  well-exposed 
to  the  sun  the  plants  develop  the  most 
brilliant  colours.  In  very  rich  soil  they  grow 
larger,  but  lack  brilliancy. 

CoLCHicuM.  Plant  bulbs  three  inches  deep 
in  late  summer  or  early  autumn  in  light,  deep, 
rich  sandy  loam  and  give  a  mulch  of  leaves 
or  litter,  which  should  be  raked  oft"  in  spring. 
The  autumn  species  make  their  foliage  in 
spring  and  bloom  without  leaves  in  August 
and  September.  They  should  remain  undis- 
turbed until  the  flowers  and  foliage  show 
signs  of  failing.  Then,  after  the  foHage  has 
died  down,  they  may  be  dug,  divided,  and 
planted  in  new  ground  at  the  proper  season. 


356 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


The  spring-blooming  kinds  may  be  planted 
like  snowdrops  in  lawns.  Both  spring  and 
autumn  blooming  species  do  well  in  rockeries. 
Columbine  (Aquilegia).  Sow  seeds  in 
midwinter  and  transplant  when  the  seedlings 
are  large  enough,  using  small  pots  or  flats. 
These  plants,  if  kept  growing  vigorously, 
should  blossom  the  first  season.  Plant  in 
any  soil,  among  rocks,  or  in  borders  exposed 
to  the  sun,  but  sheltered  from  wind.  Further 
propagation  is  easily  effected  by  division — 
the  only  safe  way  to  secure  plants  like  the 
parents  if  more  than  one  species  or  variety 
is  growing  in  the  neighbourhood. 

CONE-FLOWER.        See    RUDBECKIA. 

Coral  Bells  {Heiichcra  sanguinea).  Sow 
seeds  in  early  spring  in  a  hotbed  or  mild  green- 
house, transplant  the  seedlings  to  small 
pots  when  about  two  inches  tall,  and  again  to 
ordinary  garden  soil,  about  one  foot  apart, 
when  the  weather  becomes  settled.  Later 
sowings  may  be  made  in  the  open  ground. 
If  grown  as  a  perennial,  the  clumps  may  be 
divided  in  spring  when  the  ground  becomes 
warm.  Cuttings  may  be  made  for  winter 
use  in  late  summer  and  for  summer  use  in 
late  winter. 

Coreopsis.  Sow  the  seed  in  a  hotbed  in 
earlv  spring  or  in  the  open  ground  for  later 
bloom,  and,  when  a  few  inches  tall,  transplant 
about  two  feet  apart  in  ordinary  garden  soil. 
The  perennial  varieties  may  be  propagated 
by  greenwood  cuttings  taken  in  summer  and 
set  in  a  coldframe  or  by  division  of  the  clumps 
in  autumn  or  spring. 

Corn-flower  {Centaurea  Cyaniis).  Sow 
seed  where  the  plants  are  to  remain  and 
thin  to  about  eighteen  inches.  Any  soil  will 
suit.     The  plants  self-sow. 

Cosmos.  Sow  the  seed  in  a  mild  hotbed 
or  greenhouse  in  early  spring;  transplant  the 
seedlings  when  large  enough  to  handle  and  as 
often  thereafter  as  they  need,  and  set  in  the 
open  ground  when  the  season  has  become 
settled,  choosing  rather  poor  soil  and  fairly 
sunny  situations  protected  from  wind.  On 
rich  soil  they  grow  spindling  and  produce 
fewer  and  inferior  blossoms  later  in  the 
season  than  those  on  poorer  soil.  Pinching 
out  the  leading  shoots  of  the  young  plants 
helps  to  make  them  stockier  and  more 
prolific. 

Cotton  {Gossypium).  Sow  seeds  in  a  mild 
greenhouse  or  hotbed  in  late  winter  or  early 
spring.  Transplant  to  small  pots  and  perhaps 
again  before  the  weather  becomes  settled, 
when  the  plants  may  be  set  in  the  garden 
about  two  feet  apart  mainly  to  form  back- 
grounds for  smaller  growing  plants. 

Cowslip,  American.      See  Shooting-star. 

Cowslip,  Virginia.     See  Bluebells. 

Cram  BE  (C.  cordifolia).  Sow  seeds  in 
ordinary  soil  where  the  plants  are  to  remain 
or  in  a  separate  bed  from  which  to  be  trans- 


planted. Allow  three  or  more  feet  between 
plants.  If  desired,  start  in  a  hotbed  or 
greenhouse  and  transplant  to  pots  or  flats 
while  the  plants  are  small.  The  flowers  are 
rarely  produced  before  the  third  year,  after 
which  the  plants  fail.  During  the  first  two 
years  the  foliage  is  ornamental.  Plant 
annually  for  succession. 

Cress,  Rock  {Arabis).  Sow  seeds  in  early 
spring  where  the  plants  are  to  reinain  and 
then  to  about  four  inches.  They  thrive 
well  in  poor  soil,  but  require  plenty  of  sun. 
The  perennial  kinds  are  usually  propagated 
by  division.  Cuttings  root  readily.  See 
also  Aubrietia,  which  is  sometimes  called 
Rockcress. 

Crocus.  Plant  bulbs  in  early  autumn 
about  three  inches  deep  in  a  sunny  situation 
and  well-drained,  rather  light,  fairly  rich 
soil.  After  the  foliage  has  turned  yellow,  dig 
up  the  bulbs,  dry  them  in  the  shade,  clean 
and  store  them  until  planting  time.  If 
planting  be  delayed,  the  bulbs  will  start  to 
grow.  They  may  be  allowed  to  remain  in 
the  ground  two  years  without  damage,  but 
if  three  or  more  years  they  are  likely  to  push 
out  of  the  ground. 

Crocus,  Autumn.     See  Colchicum. 

Crown  Imperial.     See  Fritillaria. 

Cyclamen.  Sow  seeds  in  December  or 
January,  and,  as  the  little  plants  become 
large  enough  to  handle,  transplant  them  to 
small  pots  or  to  flats,  in  which  they  must  be 
kept  growing  vigorously.  As  they  need 
more  space,  plant  them  singly  in  pots,  using 
a  light,  fairly  rich  potting  soil.  When  the 
weather  becomes  settled,  transfer  the  pots 
to  a  partially  shaded  location  out  of  doors, 
plunging  the  pots  almost  to  their  rims  in  a 
well-drained  soil.  By  September  the  plants 
should  be  in  five-inch  or  six-inch  pots,  in 
which  they  are  to  flower.  About  fifteen 
months  must  elapse  from  planting  the  seed 
before  the  flowers  appear.  Only  vigorously 
growing  plants  should  be  kept;  the  slow  ones 
are  not  worth  saving.  Bulbs  obtained  from 
seedsmen  are  frequently  unsatisfactory 
because  thev  have    become    dried. 

Cup  and  Saucer.   See  Canterbury  Bells. 

Cypress-vine  {Iponicca  Quamoclit).  Sow 
the  seeds  in  early  spring  where  the  plants 
are  to  remain,  choosing  good  garden  soil 
and  a  rather  sunny  exposure.  Thin  the 
plants  to  about  eight  inches;  provide  upright 
wire  or  string  trellis  ten  feet  or  more  high 
for  the  plants  to  twine  upon. 

Daffodil.  Plant  the  bulbs  three  or  four 
inches  deep  in  atitumn  in  good  garden  soil 
and  in  partial  shade.  Each  bulb  will  produce 
a  clump  of  bulbs  in  the  course  of  three  or 
four  years,  when,  after  the  foliage  has  died 
down,  they  should  be  dug  up,  divided,  and 
replanted.  The  clumps  are  often  allowed 
to    remain    longer,    but    the    production    of 


Appendix 


357 


flowers  is  reduced  on  account  of  the  crowd- 
ing. 

Dahlia.  The  tubers  may  be  planted  in 
early  spring  in  rather  rich  soil,  but  by  starting 
them  in  a  coldframe  or  a  spent  hotbed  and 
transplanting  to  permanent  quarters  after  dan- 
ger of  frost  has  passed,  the  blossoms  may  be 
obtained  much  earlier.  Better  still ,  by  obtain- 
ing cuttings  from  the  stems  sent  up  by  tubers 
started  in  the  greenhouse  in  winter,  potted 
plants  may  be  set  in  the  garden  and  brought 
into  bloom  several  weeks  in  advance  of  those 
obtained  by  the  first  method.  In  autumn, 
a  week  after  the  tops  have  been  killed  by 
frost  the  tubers  should  be  dug,  dried,  and 
stored  in  a  cool,  dry,  airy,  dark  place  until 
needed.  They  may  be  divided  with  a  sharp 
knife,  care  being  taken  to  have  at  least 
one  bud  upon  the  stem  end  of  the  tuber. 
The  larger  plants  should  stand  three  feet 
apart  and  have  stakes,  the  smaller  two  feet  or 
even  less. 

Daisy,  English  (Bcltis).  Sow  the  seeds  in 
early  spring,  and  when  the  plants  are  about 
two  inches  tall  transplant  about  eight  inches 
apart  in  rich,  cool,  moist  soil  partially  shaded. 
After  the  plants  have  flowered  they  may  be 
divided,  division  being  indicated  by  the 
various  crowns,  each  of  which  should  have 
some  roots  attached  to  it. 

Daisy.  Michaelmas.      See  Asters,  native. 

Daisy,  Swan  River  {BracJiycoiiie).  Sow 
the  seeds  in  early  spring  in  gentle  heat,  and 
when  about  two  inches  tall  transplant  about 
six  inches  apart  in  good  soil.  Sowings  made 
in  the  open  ground  when  the  soil  becomes 
warm  may  be  made  for  succession. 

Dame's  Violet.     See  Rocket,  Sweet. 

Day  Lily.      See  Funkia. 

Delphinium.      See  Larkspur. 

DiANTHus.  Sow  seeds  in  early  spring 
under  glass,  transplant  the  seedlings  when 
they  are  large  enough  to  handle,  using  flats 
or  small  pots.  When  the  weather  has  become 
settled,  set  in  the  garden  from  a  foot  to 
eighteen  inches  apart  according  to  variety. 
The  perennial  kinds  may  be  divided  in  spring. 
Any  good  garden  soil  suits  them. 

DiCENTRA       See  Bleeding-heart. 

DiCTAMNUS.     See  Gas-plant. 

Dodecatheon.      See  Shooting-star. 

Dolichos.  For  D.  Japonicits  see  Pueraria. 
For  D.  Lablab,  see  Bean,  Hyacinth. 

DoRONicuM.     See  Leopard's  Bane. 

Elecampane  {Inula  grandiflora).  Sow  seed 
in  spring  in  any  good  soil  well  exposed  to  the 
sun,  or  divide  clumps. 

Elephant's  Ear  (Colocasia).  Plant  the 
tubers  in  a  mild  hotbed  or  greenhouse  in  late 
winter,  and  when  the  weather  has  become 
settled  transplant  to  summer  quarters ,  allowing 
three  feet  or  more  between  the  larger  growing 
kinds.  Select  damp,  rich  ground  or  keep 
the     ground    moist    by   weekly    Drenchings. 


At  the  approach  of  cold  weather,  dig  up 
the  plants  and  store  in  a  dry,  airy  frost- 
proof place. 

Elymus.  Sow  the  seeds  where  the  plants 
are  to  remain  and  thin  out  to  four  feet  or 
more.  The  clumps  may  be  divided  after 
the  second  year  or  befo're,  if  they  make  a 
very  vigorous  growth. 

EscHscHOLziA.     See  Poppy,  California. 

Eulalia.     See  Miscanthus. 

Evening-Glory.  Same  as  Moonflower, 
which   see. 

Fairy  Lily.      See  Zephyranthes. 

Flag.     See  Iris. 

Flameflower  {Kniphojia  or  Tritomd). 
Plant  roots  in  spring  in  warm,  well-drained 
soil  protected  from  the  wind.  Allow  two 
feet  or  more  between  plants.  In  autumn 
dig  and  store  in  a  dry,  airy,  frost-proof  cellar. 
From  Washington  southward  the  plants 
may  be  left  out  during  the  winter  if  protected 
somewhat  with  leaves  or  litter. 

Flax,  Flowering.  Sow  seeds  where  the 
plants  are  to  remain  in  ordinary  garden  soil 
well  exposed  to  the  sun.  Thin  to  six  or 
eight  inches.  Plant  succcssionally  for  later 
blooming. 

Flowering  Maple  {Abutilou) .  May  be 
propagated  by  seeds.  Greenwood  cuttings, 
which  may  be  taken  at  any  time,  are  more 
often  used.  The  ])lants  succeed  under  the 
same  general  treatment  as  geraniums  and 
fuchsias. 

Forget-me-not  (Myosotis).  Plant  seeds 
in  spring  in  moist,  partially  shaded  places, 
preferably  where  the  plants  are  to  remain. 
Thin  the  plants  to  stand  four  inches  apart, 
and  during  the  summer  thin  out  the  smaller 
ones,  leaving  the  large  ones  eight  inches 
or  a  foot  apart.  These  will  flower  the 
following  spring  and  will  re-seed  abundantly. 
The  plants  will  stand  even  stiff  clay  and  full 
sunlight. 

Foxglove.  Most  varieties  can  be  treated 
the  same  way  as  Canterbury  Bells,  which 
see.  The  perennial  sorts  may  be  started  in 
this  way  and  after  their  establishment  may 
be  divided.  They  will  succeed  in  sunny  or 
partially  shaded  places  and  seem  to  prefer 
light,  rather  rich,  friable,  mo'^-t  soil. 

Fraxinella.     See  GAS-t.,^NT. 

Freesia.  Plant  the  bulbs  in  autumn  in 
ordinary  potting  soil  and  keep  in  a  cold  place 
until  desired  for  successional  blooming,  when 
they  may  be  brought  into  the  mild  green- 
house. Provide  ample  drainage  in  the  pots 
or  flats  and  water  sparingly  until  blossoming 
time.  After  growth  starts,  the  plants  require 
about  six  weeks  until  the  blossoms  appear. 
The  bulbs  may  be  dried  off  like  other  species 
of  bulbous  plants,  but  new  ones  are  usually 
so  much  more  floriferous  and  are  so  cheap 
that  they  are  generally  preferred. 

Fritillaria.     In  early  autumn  plant  the 


358 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


bulbs  four  inches  deep  in  rich,  moist,  but 
well-drained,  sandy  loam,  allowing  from  a  foot 
to  eighteen  inches  between  bulbs.  The  beds 
should  be  out  of  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun, 
either  shaded  by  trees  or  shrubs  during  the 
heat  of  the  day  or  planted  on  a  northern 
exposure.  Since  the  bulbs  form  numerous 
offsets  they  should  be  dug  every  second 
or  third  year  after  the  foliage  has  died  down. 
After  cleaning  and  dividing  the  clumps,  store 
in  a  cool,  airy,  dry  place  until  plantmg  time. 

Fuchsia.  Blooming  plants  may  be  grown 
from  seed  in  about  a  year.  Cuttings  are 
more  frequently  used,  since  they  are  always 
obtainable  and  are  very  easy  to  root.  The 
plants  will  do  well  in  any  soil  and  in  the 
ordinary  temperature  of  the  living-room. 
'Cuttings  rooted  in  early  spring  should 
produce  blossoming  plants  by  Thanksgiving 
Day,  and  cuttings  taken  in  September  should 
bloom  before  spring.  After  blooming,  the 
plants  are  generally  thrown  away,  but  they 
may  be  made  to  bloom  agam  after  a  rest, 
during  which  the  plants  must  be  kept  in  cool 
quarters   and  watered  sparingly. 

FuNKiA.  Plant  roots  in  deep,  rich,  moist 
soil  in  spring.  The  large-leaved  kinds  do 
best  in  partial  shade,  where  the  soil  is  very 
moist.  The  plants  may  be  allowed  to 
remain  for  years,  during  which  time  they 
generally  improve.  Some  species  produce 
seed  freely.  If  seedlings  are  needed,  the 
seed  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe. 

Gaillardia.  Sow  the  seeds  in  midwinter 
under  glass,  and  when  about  an  inch  tall 
transplant  to  two-inch  pots  and,  if  necessary, 
to  a  larger  size  before  transplanting  in  the 
garden,  where  they  should  stand  about 
fifteen  inches  apart  in  light,  rich  soil  in  an 
open,  sunny  situation.  The  seeds  are  very 
slow  to  germinate. 

Galanthus.     See  Snowdrop. 

Galtonia.     See  Hyacinth,  Summer. 

Gas-plant  {Dictamnus).  Sow  seeds  as 
soon  as  ripe  in  the  autumn,  covering  them 
an  inch  deep  in  a  nursery  bed,  where  the 
plants  may  remain  until  two  years  old.  The 
seedlings  should  be  thinned  to  six  inches  in 
the  row  and  be  undisturbed,  since  they  do 
not  bear  transplanting  well.  Select  for 
permanent  quarters  a  fairly  rich,  rather 
heavy  soil,  and  a  situation  in  which  the  plants 
may  remain  undisturbed. 

Geranium.  Transplant  plants  from  the 
garden  in  autumn,  allowing  plenty  of  room 
in  the  pot,  saving  as  much  root  as  possible 
and  cutting  back  the  top  severely.  The 
firm  green  parts  removed  may  be  used  as 
cuttings.  They  easily  strike  root  and  are 
of  easiest  management.  They  need  only 
ordinary  soil,  and  if  kept  growing  vigorously 
should  bloom  for  months.  A  greater  amount 
of  bloom  is  produced  by  allowing  the  plants 
to  become  pot-bound  after  they  have  reached 


blooming  age.  Plants  which  have  been  gro-\A-n 
from  cuttings  taken  in  winter,  and  which  are 
in  three  or  four-inch  pots,  may  be  set  in  the 
garden  after  danger  of  frost  has  passed.  Allow 
nine  inches  for  the  smallest  bedding  varieties 
and  eighteen  inches  for  the  large  ones. 

GiLiA.  Sow  the  seed  in  the  autumn  where 
the  plants  are  to  remain,  because  they  do  not 
bear  transplanting  well,  unless  the  operation 
is  done  while  the  plants  are  very  small.  The 
bed  should  be  covered  with  a  light  mulch  of 
leaves  or  straw,  which  mtist  be  removed  in 
spring.  They  do  best  in  rather  light  soil,  and, 
according  to  kind,  should  stand  from  six  to 
twelve  inches  apart. 

GiLLiFLowER.     See  Stock. 

Gladiolus.  Plant  the  corms  two  inches 
deep  in  heavy  soils  and  four  inches  in  light. 
Successional  planting  should  commence  with 
the  smallest  corms  as  soon  as  the  soil  can  be 
worked,  and  end  with  large  corms  planted 
about  midsummer.  If  confined  to  beds,  the 
first-planted  bulbs  may  be  set  twelve  inches 
apart,  the  later-planted  ones  set  in  the 
intervals;  six  inches  apart  is  close  enough. 
In  late  autumn  dig,  dry,  clean  and  store  the 
corms  in  a  cool,  dark,  dry,  airy  place.  Seeds 
are  often  used  to  produce  new  varieties.  They 
are  sown  thickly  in  spring,  a  few  radish  or 
turnip  seeds  being  planted  with  them  to  mark 
the  rows.  No  flowers  can  be  expected  the 
first  season  from  seeds.  Even  the  second 
season  some  corms  will  fail.  These  should  be 
saved  for  a  third  year's  planting,  because  they 
often  produce  superior  flowers. 

Globeflower  {TroUiiis).  Sow  in  a  mild 
hotbed  or  greenhouse  in  early  spring;  trans- 
plant to  small  pots  or  fiats  when  about  two 
inches  tall,  and  when  the  weather  becomes 
settled  set  in  ordinary  garden  soil  in  a  sunny 
place.  Seed  may  also  be  planted  where  the 
plants  are  to  remain.  Allow  about  a  foot 
between  plants. 

Glory  of  the  Snow  (Chioiiodoxa) .  Plant 
the  bulbs  three  inches  deep  in  any  friable 
soil  that  will  supply  plenty  of  moisture  until 
the  tops  have  completed  their  growth.  Light 
is  also  essential.  Dig  and  divide  the  plants 
every  third  year  if  in  beds,  but  if  in  lawns 
let  them  die  out,  which  they  may  be  expected 
to  do  in  a  few  years  more.  When  conditions 
are  favourable,  however,  the  numerous  seeds 
will  replenish  the  ground.  The  seeds  should 
be  sown  in  a  coldframe  in  which  they  should 
germinate  the  following  winter  and  produce 
little  bulbs  in  the  spring.  These  may  then 
be  planted  where  needed  or  grown  another 
year  in  nursery  beds. 

Gloxinia.  For  the  propagation  of  choice 
varieties  or  colours,  cuttings  of  leaves  and 
stems  are  employed,  the  former  preferred. 
Seeds  are  usually  more  satisfactory  for  ordi- 
nary purposes.  They  should  be  sown  during 
midwinter,    carefully     watered,    transplanted 


Appendix 


359 


while  small  and  again  as  they  need.  The 
soil  used  should  be  light  and  fibrous  and 
fairly  rich.  If  properlj'  managed  they  should 
begin  to  blossom  in  early  autumn  and  con- 
tinue for  several  weeks.  The  dying  of  the 
leaves  indicates  the  approach  of' the  resting 
period.  Water  should  then  be  withheld,  the 
plants  being  allowed  to  become  dry  without 
shrivelling.  At  this  time  the  temperature 
should  be  kept  below  fifty  degrees.  About 
midwinter  the  bulbs  will  cominence  to  grow 
and  the  most  active  may  be  planted;  others 
later  for  succession.  The  old  soil  and  dead 
roots    should    be    removed   before    repotting. 

GoDETiA.  Sow  in  early  spring  under  glass, 
and  when  the  seedlings  are  about  three 
inches  tall  transplant  about  fifteen  inches 
apart  in  rather  poor  soil.  In  rich  soil  the 
plants  become  rank  and  produce  fewer  and 
poorer  flowers.  They  inay  also  be  started 
in  a  coldframe  or  in  the  open  ground,  but 
are  later  than  if  transplanted  from  the  green- 
hotise. 

GoLDENROD  (Solidago).  Transplant  choice 
specimens  from  the  fields  and  fence  rows. 
They  respond  well  to  good  treatment. 

GoMPHRENA.     See  Globeflower. 

Grape  Hyacinth.     See  Hyacinth,  Grape. 

Grevillea.      See  Silk  Oak. 

Groundnut,  Hog  (A pios  tuberosa).  Plant 
tubers  three  inches  deep  in  light  soil  well 
exposed  to  the  sun.  Three  or  four  should  be 
planted  together.  Provide  trelhs  upon  which 
the  vines  may  twine  for  eight  feet.  Dig  and 
divide  annually  to  prevent  undue  spreading. 

Gypsophila.      See  Baby's  Breath. 

Helianthemum.      See  Sun-rose. 

Heliaxthus.      See  Sunflower. 

Helichrysum.  Sow  in  any  garden  soil 
when  the  soil  becomes  warm.  Allow  from 
one  to  two  feet  between  plants  If  desired, 
seeds  may  be  started  in  a  mild  hotbed  or  green- 
house and  the  seedlings  transplanted  when 
about  two  inches  tall,  and  later  to  the  garden. 

Heliotrope.  Propagate  by  means  of 
cuttings  of  terminal  shoots  in  moist  sand. 
Pot  the  rooted  cuttings  in  light,  rich  pottmg 
soil;  provide  good  drainage,  but  never  let 
the  plants  suffer  for  want  of  water.  Since 
the  plants  make  rapid  root  growth,  they  need 
frequent  changes  of  pots.  For  use  in  the 
garden,  set  the  plants  out  after  danger  of  frost 
has  passed,  choosing  a  sunny  place  and  light, 
rich  soil.  They  should  be  about  thirty 
inches  apart. 

Helipterum.  Sow  seeds  in  a  mild  green- 
house or  hotbed  m  early  spring;  transplant 
to  small  pots  or  flats  when  about  two  inches 
tall  and  set  in  ordinary  garden  soil  when  the 
weather  becomes  settled.  Allow  about  a  foot 
between  plants.  Seeds  may  also  be  sown 
in  the  garden  when  spring  has  opened. 

Hellebore.  All  cultivated  like  H .  Niger. 
See  Rose,  Christmas. 


Hemp.  Sow  seeds  in  good  soil  where  the 
plants  are  to  remain  and  thin  out  the  seedlings 
to  stand  about  eighteen  inches  apart.  Use 
only  for  backgrounds,  since  the  plants  are 
tall  growing. 

Hesperis.     See  Rocket,  Sweet. 

Heuchera.     See  Coral  Bells. 

Hollyhock  (Althcea).  Plant  the  seed  in 
January  in  a  cool  greenhouse,  using  ordinary 
potting  soil.  When  the  seedlings  are  large 
enough,  pot  them  singly  in  small  pots  and  as 
occasion  may  demand  shift  them  to  larger 
pots  until  the  weather  becomes  settled  in 
spring,  when  they  may  be  planted  where  they 
are  to  remain  in  the  garden.  A  light,  deep, 
rich  soil  suits  them  best,  but  they  will  grow 
in  poor  soil.  Allow  three  feet  between 
plants.  If  started  thus,  flowers  may  be 
expected  the  first  season,  but  if  started  in  the 
garden  they  will  not  flower  until  the  following 
season.  Since  they  frequently  fail  to  produce 
well  the  third  year,  successional  anntial 
sowings  should  be  made. 

Hop  {Humulus).  Sow  seeds  of  Japanese 
annual  as  soon  as  the  ground  becomes  warm, 
choosing  deep  rich  soil.  Provide  a  trellis 
or  strings  twelve  or  more  feet  high.  The 
perennial  hop  may  be  grown  similarly  from, 
seed  or  established  clumps  may  be  divided 
in  spring. 

Hose  in  Hose.     See  Canterbury  Bells. 

Hyacinth.  Plant  bulbs  in  autumn,  four 
or  five  inches  deep  in  ordinary  soils,  shallower 
in  heavy,  deeper  in  light.  Protect  in  the 
North  with  a  light  mulch  of  litter  or  leaves, 
which  must  be  removed  in  spring.  When 
leaves  have  turned  yellow,  dig  up,  dry  in  the 
shade,  clean  and  store  until  autumn. 

Hyacinth,  Grape  {Miiscari).  Plant  the 
bulbs  in  any  moderately  fertile  soil  during 
autumn,  sinking  them  about  two  inches 
deep.  They  may  be  allowed  to  remain  until 
they  show  signs  of  deterioration,  when,  after 
the  tops  have  died  down,  the}'  may  be  dug, 
cleaned,  dried  and  replanted  at  the  proper 
season.  The  foliage  should  always  be  allowed 
to  die  naturally,  since  bloom  of  the  following 
season  depends  upon  foliage  of  the  present. 
May  be  planted  in  lawns  like  snowdrops. 

Hyacinth,  Star.     See  Aconite,  Winter. 

Hyacinth,  Summer  {Galtonia) .  In  spring 
plant  the  bulbs  four  or  more  inches  deep  in 
rich,  moist,  but  well-drained  soil.  In  the 
North  dig  the  bulbs  after  the  tops  have  died, 
or  protect  with  a  mulch  of  leaves  or  litter 
over  winter.  In  favoured  situations  and 
warmer  regions  this  latter  method  gives  best 
results,  since  the  plants  do  best  when  undis- 
turbed and  allowed  to  grow  in  clumps  for 
several  years. 

Ice-plant  (Mesembryanthemnni) .  Sow 
seeds  in  a  sunny  place  in  sandy  soil  as  soon 
as  the  ground  becomes  warm  in  spring. 
Thin    to   about   six   inches.      For   indoor   use 


360 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


sow  seeds  in  midsummer  or  transplant  plants 
from  the  garden  in  autumn  before  frost. 
The  plants  withstand  drought  well. 

Inula.     See  Elecampane. 

Ipomcea.  See  Morning-glory;  Cypress- 
vine. 

Iris.  Plant  the  rootstocks  or  tubers  in 
moist,  even  wet  soil  in  spring  or  autumn,  and 
keep  the  clumps  free  from  weeds.  As 
occasion  may  demand,  divide  the  clumps. 
If  in  very  wet  places,  the  division  may  take 
place  in  midsummer,  the  clumps  being 
removed  to  a  shed  and  the  roots  covered  with 
earth  until  autumn.  Propagation  may  also 
be  effected  by  ineans  of  seed,  which  must 
often,  however,  be  obtained  by  cross  fertilisa- 
tion of  the  flowers. 

Jonquil.  Cultivate  Hke  Daffodil,  which 
see. 

Kenilworth  Ivy.  Sow  seeds  in  any  odd, 
moist  corner  of  the  greenhouse,  among  taller 
growing  plants,  or  in  partially  shaded  places 
out  of  doors,  and  let  the  plants  take  care  of 
themselves.  The  outdoor  specimens  will 
die  during  winter,  but  will  resow  themselves. 
They  may  be  readily  propagated  by  division. 

KuDzu  Vine.     See   Pueraria. 

Larkspur  {Delphinium) .  Plant  seeds  in 
late  winter  and  keep  growing  vigorously  in 
several  shifts  of  pots  until  the  weather 
becomes  settled,  when  the  plants  may  be  set 
in  good  soil,  well  exposed  to  the  sun.  These 
should  flower  the  first  season.  Annual 
kinds  are  so  propagated.  The  perennial  is 
started  this  way,  but  later  propagation  is  by 
means  of  division  of  the  clumps  in  the  spring 
or  by  cuttings  of  young  growth  taken  in 
spring,  or  of  second  growth  which  appears 
after  flowering.  After  flowering,  the  old  tops 
of  some  species  may  be  cut  and  a  second 
crop  of  bloom  obtained  in  the  autumn. 
Seeds  may  also  be  sown  in  autumn  where 
the  plants  are  to  remain  or  for  transplant- 
ing. The  clumps  should  be  divided  every 
third  year. 

Leopard's  Bane  {Doronicum) .  Sow  seed 
where  the  plants  are  to  remain  and  thin  the 
seedlings  to  stand  about  a  foot  apart.  After 
once  becoming  established  the  tubers  may 
be  used  for  further  propagation. 

Leucojum.     See  Snowflake. 

LiATRis.      See  Blazing-star. 

Lightning,  Scarlet.     See  Lychnis. 

Lily.  In  well-drained,  deeply  worked, 
fairly  rich  garden  loam,  plant  the  bulbs  from 
four  to  six  inches  deep.  (L.  auratum  ten  or 
twelve  inches  deep).  Mid  to  late  autumn  is 
the  best  time  for  planting  most  species. 
(L.  candiduin  and  L.  excelsum  should  be 
planted  in  August  or  September.)  With  the 
exception  of  L.  candidum,  which  thrives  in 
full  sun,  lilies  do  best  in  the  partial  shade  or 
shrubbery,  trees  or  buildings,  especially  if 
the  shade  protects  the  plants  during  the  heat 


of  the  day.  During  winter  a  liberal  mulch 
of  leaves  or  litter  should  be  given.  When 
the  plants  seem  to  need  division  they  should 
be  dug  after  growth  has  started  in  the  spring 
and  placed  in  new  quarters  (already  prepared) 
as  soon  as  possible. 

Lily,  Chinese  Sacred.  Plant  the  bulbs 
in  ordinary  potting  soil  as  soon  as  they  can 
be  obtained  after  importation  and  keep  in 
cold  place  until  needed,  when  they  may  be 
brought  into  a  living-room,  provided  they 
have  formed  roots.  They  are  often  grown 
among  stones  in  water,  no  soil  being  used. 
In  this  case  also  good  root  de\-elopment  must 
precede  the  development  of  the  tops.  The 
bulbs  should,  therefore,  be  kept  in  a  dark, 
cool  place,  as  above  indicated. 

Lily,  Day.      See  Funkia. 

Lily,  Fairy.      See  Zephyranthes. 

Maple,  Flowering.  See  Flowering 
Maple. 

Lily-of-the-Valley  (Convallaria) .  Plant 
the  pips  in  late  autumn  in  a  partially  shaded 
good,  light  garden  loam,  where  the  plants  may 
be  allowed  to  spread.  No  further  attention 
except  ordinary  manuring  is  necessary. 
Dividing  and  transplanting  may  be  done  in 
autumn  or  early  spring. 

LiNUM.     See   Flax,   Flowering. 

Lobelia  (L.  Erinus).  Sow  seeds  during 
winter  in  the  greenhouse;  when  about  two 
inches  tall  transplant  to  flats  or  small  pots,  and 
when  the  ground  becomes  warm  transplant 
from  four  to  six  inches  apart  in  rather  rich  soil 
in  a  sunny  situation.  For  later  bloom,  sow  in 
early  spring  where  the  plants  are  to  remain 
and  thin  out  the  excess.  They  respond  to 
stimulating  manures  with  improved  flowers. 
See  also  Cardinal  Flower. 

Lungwort,   Virginia.     See  Bluebells. 

Lychnis.  Sow  seeds  in  any  soil  in  early 
spring  or  start  under  glass.  Set  the  plants 
about  a  foot  apart.  Perennial  species  may 
be  divided. 

Lyme-grass.     See  Elymus. 

Maltese  Cross.     See  Lychnis. 

Marguerite,  Golden,  Chamomile.  Plant 
seeds  in  a  mild  hotbed  or  greenhouse,  or  in 
the  open  ground.  Transplant  while  small 
to  pots  or  permanent  quarters  in  ordinary 
soil.  Allow  from  eighteen  to  twenty-four 
inches  between  plants.      Select  sunny  place. 

Marigold  {Tagetes).  Sow  the  seeds  in  a 
coldframe  in  late  winter  or  early  spring,  and 
when  about  three  inches  tall  transplant  to 
any  good  garden  soil  when  the  soil  becomes 
warm.  The  African  varieties  should  stand 
about  fifteen  inches  apart;  the  French  about 
ten  inches;  and  the  dwarf  varieties  about  six 
inches. 

Maurandia.  Sow  seeds  in  late  winter  or 
early  spring  in  a  moderately  warm  hotbed 
or  greenhouse;  transplant  when  two  or  three 
leaves  are  formed,  using  small  pots,  and  set 


Appendix 


361 


in  good  soil  when  the  weather  has  become 
settled.  Provide  trellis  about  ten  feet  tall. 
Cuttings  readily  take  root  in  the  greenhouse. 

Meadow    Saffron.      See    Colchicum. 

Mentzelia.     See  Poppy,  Mexican. 

Mertensia.     See  Bluebells. 

Mesembryanthemum.     See    Iceplant. 

Mignonette  (Reseda).  Sow  seeds  in  a 
mild  hotbed  in  early  spring;  transplant  the 
seedlings  when  about  two  inches  tall  to  small 
pots  or  flats,  and  again  to  the  garden  when 
the  ground  becomes  warm.  Later  and 
siiccessional  sowings  may  be  made  in  the 
open  ground.  For  winter  blooming  seeds  may 
be  sown  in  midsummer,  when  cuttings  may 
also  be  taken.      Any  garden  soil  suits  them. 

Mimulus.     See    Monkey-flower. 

MiscANTHUs  (same  as  Eiilalia).  Sow  seeds 
in  a  mild  hotbed  or  greenhouse  in  early 
spring  and  transplant  the  seedlings  to  small 
pots  when  about  two  inches  tall.  When  the 
weather  becomes  settled  transplant  in  the  open 
ground  in  ordinary  soil.  Allow  five  feet 
between  plants.  Division  of  the  clumps  is 
the  usual  method  of  propagation  after  the 
plants  have  become  established. 

MoNARDA.      See  Balm,   Fragrant. 

Monkey-flower  {Mimulus).  Sow  in  the 
garden  as  soon  as  the  soil  becomes  warm, 
and  when  about  two  inches  tall  transplant 
about  a  foot  apart  in  any  partially  shaded 
soil.  Cuttings  readily  strike  root,  and  the 
clumps  may  be  divided. 

Montbretia.  Plant  the  bulbs  in  the 
spring  in  any  garden  soil,  rather  light  pre- 
ferred, sinking  the  corms  three  or  four  inches 
deep  and  eight  inches  apart.  Plant  suc- 
cessionally  every  ten  days  or  two  weeks.  In 
autumn  dig,  clean,  divide  and  store  the 
corms  in  moist  earth.  Don't  have  them  wet. 
Farther  south  they  may  be  left  where  they 
grow  with  a  mulch  of  leaves  or  litter  as 
protection.  In  such  cases  they  should  be 
dug  every  three  years. 

Moonflower  (Iponicea).  File  the  points 
of  the  seeds  or  cut  small  notches  in  them,  to 
hasten  and  insure  germination.  Sow  in  late 
winter  in  a  moderately  warm  greenhouse  or 
hotbed.  When  two  or  three  leaves  have 
appeared  transplant  the  seedlings  to  small 
pots,  and  when  danger  of  frost  has  passed 
set  in  deep,  rich  soil  and  provide  a  straight 
wire  or  string  trellis  twenty  to  thirty  feet  tall. 
Cuttings  may  be  taken  in  early  autumn  for 
winter    flowering.      The    plants    are    twining. 

Morning-glory  {Ipomoca).  Sow  seeds  as 
soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked  where  the 
plants  are  to  remain,  choosing  a  warm,  sunny 
place  and  ordinary  soil.  Provide  straight 
wire  trellis  or  strings  (the  plants  twine)  six 
or  eight  inches  apart.  In  ordinary  soil  the 
plants  should  reach  ten  feet;  in  rich,  much 
more.  In  the  latter  they  will  usually  be 
less    floriferous    and    later   in    blooming,    but 


will  produce  greater  shade.  They  self-sow 
readily. 

Moss-piNK  {Phlox  subulata).  Plant  divided 
plants  in  any  soil  among  rocks  and  in  borders 
where  a  mat  of  low  herbage  is  desired.  The 
plants  will  care  for  themselves  with  only  an 
autumn  dressing  of  litter  or  manure. 

Mother  of  Thousands.  See  Kenilworth 
Ivy. 

Mourning-bride  (Scabiosa).  Sow  seeds 
in  the  open  ground  or  in  a  mild  hotbed. 
Transplant  while  small  to  ordinary  garden 
soil,  the  dwarf  varieties  about  six  inches 
apart  and  the  tall  ones  as  much  as  two  feet. 
The  perennial  species  may  be  divided,  but 
some  of  them  act  like  biennials  and  should 
be  sown  annually.  For  indoor  blooming  the 
seed  may  be  sown  in  late  summer. 

Mullein-pink.      See   Lychnis. 

Muscari.     See  Hyacinth,  Grape. 

Musk-plant.  Cultivate  like  Monkey- 
flower,  which  see. 

Myosotis.     See    Forget-me-not. 

Narcissus,  Poet's.  Cultivate  like  Daffo- 
dil, which  see. 

Nasturtium  {Tropccolum).  Sow  the  seed 
singly  in  two-inch  pots  in  the  hotbed  or 
greenhouse  in  early  spring  and  transplant 
to  poor  soil,  the  dwarf  varieties  about  a  foot 
apart,  the  tall  ones  two  to-  four.  The  seeds 
may  also  be  sown  in  the  open  ground  when 
the  soil  becomes  warm.  Choice  varieties  or 
colours  may  be  easily  propagated  by  cuttings 
— the  usual  way  for  obtaining  plants  for 
winter  blooming. 

Nemophila.  Sow  the  seed  in  a  cold- 
frame  in  early  spring  and  transplant  while 
the  plants  are  very  small  six  inches  apart  in 
good  soil.  For  earliest  bloom  the  seeds  may 
be  sown  in  early  autumn  where  the  plants 
are  to  remain,  and  protected  during  the 
winter  with  a  light  mulch  of  leaves  or  straw. 
Some  of  these  late-sown  plants  may  be  potted 
and  removed  to  the  cool  greenhouse  for 
winter  blossoming. 

Nicotiana  {N.  alata).  Sow  seeds  in  mild 
hot-bed  or  greenhouse  in  early  spring  or  late 
winter;  transplant  when  about  tM-o  inches 
tall  to  small  pots,  and  when  danger  of  frost 
has  passed  set  in  good  garden  soil,  about  two 
feet  apart.  From  Washington  southward 
the  plant  often  self-sows,  and  in  the  South  it 
lives  over  winter.  For  winter  Ijlooming  sow 
seeds  in  late  summer  and  give  ordinary 
attention. 

Pampas  Grass.  Since  seedlings  must 
usually  be  two  years  old  before  they  will 
flower,  division  of  established  clumps  in  the 
spring  is  preferred.  The  plants  thrive  best 
in  rich,  light,  rather  moist  loam.  Since  the 
plants  are  rather  tender  in  the  North,  they 
should  be  protected  during  the  winter  with 
a  mulch  of  straw  or  leaves  several  inches 
thick  and  held  in  place  by  boards  or  boughs. 


362 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


Pansy.  For  early  spring  flowering  sow  in 
the  autumn,  and  when  the  plants  have  three 
or  four  leaves  transplant  about  three  inches 
apart  in  coldframes,  which  must  be  protected 
from  incleinent  weather  during  winter.  In 
early  spring  the  plants  may  be  set  about  five 
inches  apart  in  light,  rich  soil.  They  do  best 
in  partial  shade,  especially  if  flowers  are 
desired  during  the  summer,  a  season  which 
reduces  the  size  of  the  blossoms.  Spring- 
sown  seed  rarely  produces  as  satisfactory 
plants  as  autumn-sown. 

Pea,  Perennial  (or  Everlasting).  Sow 
seeds  where  the  plants  are  to  remain,  but 
avoid  placing  them  in  borders  with  shrubbery, 
etc.  Among  rocks,  in  waste  places,  and  in 
any  kind  of  soil  they  will  thrive. 

Pea,  Sweet.  For  earliest  bloom  sow  the 
seeds  about  four  inches  deep  in  late  autumn 
where  the  plants  are  to  remain,  choosing  a 
deep,  rich,  rather  heavy  loam  and  a  dry 
situation.  Spring  succeSsional  sowings  should 
commence  with  the  opening  of  the  season,  the 
seeds  being  sown  in  trenches  from  four  to  six 
inches  deep,  but  being  covered  with  less  than 
two  inches  of  soil.  Thin  the  seedlings  to 
stand  eight  inches  apart,  and,  as  they  grow, 
draw  soil  toward  thein  until  they  are  ridged 
an  inch  or  inore  above  the  level.  Provide 
trellis  of  poultry  wire,  brush  or  strings.  For 
long  season  of  bloom  cut  the  flowers  daily. 
Dwarf  sweet  peas  need  no  trellis  and  may 
stand  as  close  as  twelve  inches. 

Peony.  Plant  the  crowns  two  inches  deep 
in  rich,  moist  garden  soil,  first  having  shaken 
off  any  old  soil.  When  well  established  and 
well  fed  they  should  produce  blossoms 
abundantly  for  a  quarter  of  a  century.  They 
will  also  thrive  in  poorer  soils. 

Pextstemon.  See  Beard- tongue. 
Petunia.  Sow  the  seed  in  a  hotbed  or 
coldframe,  and  when  the  seedlings  are  a  few 
inches  high  transplant  about  eighteen  inches 
apart  in  good  soil.  Later  sowings  may  be 
made  in  the  garden.  Double  varieties  pro- 
duce less  viable  seed  than  single  ones.  The 
double  and  some  of  the  choice  single  ones 
are  often  propagated  by    cuttings. 

Phlox,  Annual  {P.  Drurnmondii).  For 
earliest  plants,  sow  the  seed  in  a  hotbed  or 
coldframe  in  early  spring  and  transplant  the 
seedlings  when  a  few  inches  tall  about  eight 
inches  apart  in  good  garden  soil.  Sowings 
may  also  be  made  in  spring  out  of  doors  when 
the  soil  has  become  warm,  or  in  late  autumn 
where  the  plants  are  to  stand  the  following 
season.  The  first  method  is  usually  most 
satisfactory. 

Phlox,  Perennial.  Plant  the  nursery- 
grown  plants  in  rich,  fairly  moist  loamy 
soil.  Divide  the  slowly  enlarging  clump 
every  five  years  or  perhaps  oftener.  Give 
annual  dressings  of  stable  manure,  and  keep 
clear    of    weeds,    especially    grasses,    in    the 


clumps.  By  pinching  out  the  tips  of  the 
shoots  in  late  spring  the  blossoming  season 
may  be  changed  to  late  summer  instead  of 
early  summer. 

Phlox  Subulata.  See  Moss-pink. 
Pink.  See  Dianthus. 
Plume  Grass.  See  Ravenna  Grass. 
Poker  Plant.  See  Flame-flower. 
Polyanthus.  Treat  like  half-hardy  prim- 
roses. See  Primroses.  Sow  the  seed  as 
soon  as  possible  after  its  collection.  A  inild 
greenhouse  or  hotbed  will  suit  them.  The 
soil  should  be  light,  fairly  rich  and  porous, 
and  until  the  plants  are  well  established 
should  be  partially  shaded.  The  hardy 
kinds  do  well  out-of-doors  in  partially  shaded 
situations  where  the  soil  never  becomes  dry 
and  where  the  air  is  humid.  In  warm  and 
dry  situations  they  fail.  The  choice  varieties 
may  be  propagated  by  cuttings  or  division. 
The  half-hardy  kinds  and  those  most  sus- 
ceptible to  dryness  may  be  bedded  out  each 
spring  like  pansies  and  removed  to  deeper 
shade  and  greater  moisture  as  soon  as  they 
have  flowered,  their  place  being  taken  by 
other  plants.  During  winter  they  may  be 
kept  in  coldframes,  previously  having  been 
divided. 

Polypteris.  Start  under  glass,  trans- 
planting the  seedlings  when  about  two  inches 
tall  to  small  pots  or  flats,  and  when  the  weather 
becomes  settled  to  the  open  ground  in  a 
rather  sunny  sandy  place.  Allow  about  two 
feet  between  plants.  Later  sowings  may 
be  inade  in  the  open  ground. 

Poppy  (Papaver).  Sow  the  seeds  in  early 
spring  where  they  are  to  remain,  since  the 
plants  will  not  bear  transplanting.  Choose, 
when  possible,  a  moderately  rich  sand}^  loam, 
and  thin  the  plants  to  not  less  than  nine 
inches  for  the  small  growing  annuals  and 
eighteen  inches  for  the  larger  kinds.  To 
lengthen  the  season  of  bloom,  allow  no  seed 
capsules  to  ripen  on  the  plants.  The  perennial 
species  may  also  be  propagated  by  division 
of  the  clumps  and  also  by  root  cuttings  taken 
in  autumn  and  grown  under  glass.  They 
usually  require  about  twice  as  much  room  as 
the  annuals. 

Poppy,  California  (Esclischohia) .  Best 
results  are  obtained  from  seed  of  the  present 
season  sown  in  the  early  autumn  where  the 
plants  are  to  remain,  protected  during  the 
winter  with  a  light  inulch  of  litter  or  lea^-es, 
thinned  to  about  ten  inches  apart  in  spring. 
They  may  be  thinned  to  half  this  distance 
in  the  autumn,  if  they  are  numerous  or 
crowded.  The  seeds  may  also  be  sown  in 
the  open  ground  in  early  spring,  bvit  they  are 
then  rather  slow  and  uncertain  compared  to 
fresher  seed.     ■ 

Poppy,  Mexican  {Mentzelid).  Sow  seeds 
in  early  spring  in  a  mild  hotbed  or  greenhouse 
and  transplant  the  seedlings  to  small,  well- 


Appendix 


363 


drained  pots  when  about  two  inches  tall,  and 
when  the  ground  becomes  warm  to  ordinary 
garden  soil  in  a  moist  place.  They  generally 
do  better  if  the  seed  is  sown  in  the  open 
ground  where  the  plants  arc  to  remain.  They 
need  about  a  square  foot  of  space  each  and 
should  be  planted  in  masses. 

Poppy,  Plume  {Bocconia  cordata).  Sow 
seeds  in  a  mild  hotbed  or  greenhouse  in  late 
winter  or  early  spring.  Transplant  while 
small  to  pots,  and  when  the  weather  has 
become  settled  transfer  to  the  open  ground, 
setting  the  plants  about  five  feet  apart.  Will 
thrive  in  any  soil,  but  will  produce  largest 
specimens  in  rich.  May  be  grown  readily 
from  pieces  of  root. 

Poppv-itfALLOw.  Sow  seeds  in  early  spring 
in  a  mild  hotbed  or  greenhouse  and  transplant 
the  seedlings  while  still  small  to  pots  or  fiats, 
and  when  the  weather  becomes  settled  plant 
in  any  good  garden  soil  about  a  foot  apart. 
Cuttings  of  the  perennial  species  may  be  vised 
for  further  propagation. 

PoRTULAccA.  When  the  ground  becomes 
thoroughly  warm,  sow  the  seed  rather 
thickly  in  dry  light  soil  in  the  sunniest  situa- 
tions, and  thin  out  the  surplus  to  about  five 
inches  apart.  Usually  enough  seed  will  be 
produced  to  supply  the  succeeding  season's 
needs.  The  plants  may  be  transplanted 
while  in  full  bloom. 

Primrose,  Chinese.  Sow  seeds  in  a  mild 
hotbed  or  greenhouse  in  early  spring,  so  as 
to  have  flowering  plants  by  winter.  Suc- 
cessional  sowings  may  be  made  until  early 
Slimmer.  Choose  light,  fibrous  potting  soil 
finely  sifted.  Prick  off  the  seedlings  as  soon 
as  large  enough,  first  to  flats,  and  when  they 
have  three  or  four  leaves  to  small  pots. 
Give  shifts  of  pots  as  required.  They  should 
be  in  five  or  six  inch  pots  by  late  autumn. 
They  do  best  at  temperatures  below  fifty 
degrees  and  with  plenty  of  food  in  the  form  of 
liquid  manure,  which  should  be  gi\-en  only 
when  the  pots  in  which  they  are  to  blossom 
are  full  of  roots.  When  in  blossom  they  may 
be  taken  to  the  living-rooms.  They  do  better 
thus  managed  than  if  removed  earlier. 
Other  "indoor"  primroses  may  be  grown 
similarly. 

Prince's-feather  {Aniarantiis).  Sow 
seeds  in  poor  soil  well  exposed  to  the  sun  as 
soon  as  the  ground  becomes  warm.  Thin  the 
seedlings  to  stand  eighteen  or  more  inches 
apart.  Dwarf  varieties  should  stand  closer. 
In  rich  soil  the  colours  of  the  foliage  and  of 
the  flower  heads  are  less  brilliant. 

Pueraria  Thunbergiana.  Sow  seeds  near 
porches,  verandas,  or  very  large  trellises. 
They  may  be  started  under  glass  in  pots  and 
the  seedlings  transplanted  when  the  weather 
has  become  settled.  The  perennial  tuberous 
roots  may  be  used  after  the  plants  have 
become     established,     or    cuttings    may    be 


rooted.  From  Washington  southward  the 
tops  may  live  over  winter. 

Puschkinia.  Plant  the  bulbs  hke  those 
of  Scilla  and  Chionodoxa. 

Ravenna  Grass.  Sow  seeds  in  late  winter 
or  early  spring  in  the  greenhouse  or  mild 
hotbed.  When  the  plants  are  Jarge  enough, 
transplant  to  small  pots  and  make  one  or  two 
shifts  before  setting  in  the  garden  when 
the  weather  becomes  settled.  Allow  four 
or  more  feet  between  plants.  Select  a  warm 
place  in  ordinary  garden  soil.  After  becoming 
established  the  plants  may  be  propagated  by 
division. 

Reed,  Giant  {Arundo  Donax).  Sow  seeds 
in  mild  hotbed  or  greenhouse  in  early  spring 
and  transplant  to  small  pots.  When  the 
weather  becomes  settled  plant  in  ordinary 
soil  eight  feet  apart  as  a  background  for 
smaller  plants.  Dwarf  varieties  may  be  set 
four  feet  apart.  If  desired,  established 
clumps  may  be  divided. 

Rock-cress.     See    Cress  and  Aubrietia. 

Rocket,  Sweet  {Hesperis).  In  early 
spring  sow  seeds  where  the  plants  are  to 
remain  or  in  a  border  for  transplanting. 
Allow  about  eighteen  inches  between  plants, 
which  will  form  clumps.  These  may  be 
divided  when  necessary  for  further  propaga- 
tion. 

Rose,  Christmas  (Hellebcrus).  Plant  the 
rootstocks  in  any  good  soil,  rich,  sandy 
loam  preferred.  Moisture  and  shade  are 
favourable.  The  plants  need  no  further 
attention  than  annual  manuring,  and  should 
be  undisturbed  for  years. 

Rose  of   Heaven.     See  Lychnis. 

Rose.      See   Chapter   XVIII. 

Rose,  Rock.     See  Sun-rose. 

RuDBECKiA.  Sow  sceds  in  spring  either 
in  the  garden  or  earlier  vmder  glass.  Trans- 
plant as  the  plants  become  large  enough, 
either  to  pots,  nursery  beds,  or  to  permanent 
quarters.  Any  soil  or  any  exposure  suits 
them.  After  once  becoming  established  the 
clumps  may  be  divided  in  spring. 

Rye,  Wild.      See  Elymus. 

Sacaline  (Polygonum  Sachalinensc) .  Sow 
seed  where  the  plants  are  to  remain.  Rather 
moist,  rich  soil  is  most  favourable.  Very 
likely  to  become  a  pest  from  the  spread  of  its 
underground  stems. 

Saffron,  Meadow.     See  Colchicum. 

Sailor,    Ragged.     See    Corn-flower. 

Salpiglossis.  Sow  seeds  in  late  winter; 
transplant  seedlings  when  about  two  inches 
tall  to  small  pots.  Keep  them  growing 
steadily;  avoid  any  kind  of  check.  Set  in 
light,  rich,  deep,  moist  soil  when  danger  of 
frost  has  passed.  They  need  about  eighteen 
inches  space.  Seed  may  also  be  sown  where 
the  plants  are  to  stand  and  the  excess  thinijed 
out.  For  winter  bloom  the  seeds  may  be 
sown  in  midsummer  or  later,  and  the  plants 


3^4 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


kept  growing  steadily  in  rather  frequent 
shifts  of  pots  until  they  approach  the  flowering 
stage,  when  they  may  be  allowed  to  become 
pot-bound. 

Sage,  Scarlet  .  (Safo^'a  splendens).  Sow 
seeds  in  late  winter  in  a  greenhouse  or  hot- 
bed; transplant  when  an  inch  or  two  tall  to 
small  pots,  and  again  if  necessary  before 
setting  in  ordinary  soil  eighteen  inches  apart, 
after  danger  of  frost  has  passed.  Greenwood 
cuttings  may  be  easily  rooted  in  a  warm  soil 
or  in  the  greenhouse. 

Salvia.     See  Sage,  Scarlet. 

ScABiosA.     See  Mourning-bride. 

ScHizANTHUS.     See   Butterfly-flower. 

SciLLA.  Plant  the  bulbs  in  mid-autumn 
in  good  garden  soil,  in  beds  or  upon  the  lawn, 
and  leave  them  to  themselves.  If  desired 
to  remove  them,  dig  after  the  foliage  has 
turned  yellow,  dry  in  the  shade  and  store  in 
a  cool,  airy  room  until  planting  time. 

Sedum.  Sow  seeds  in  mild  greenhouse  or 
hotbed  during  winter  or  early  spring;  trans- 
plant to  flats  when  large  enough,  and  to  the 
garden  when  the  weather  becomes  settled. 
From  four  to  eight  inches  are  the  usual 
distance  for  planting.  The  soil  should  be 
sandy  and  well  drained,  especially  if  the  plants 
are  to  remain  outdoors  during  the  winter, 
which  some  may.  For  further  propagation, 
offsets  are  usually  employed.  They  are 
taken  in  summer  or  autumn  and  from  their 
increase  during  winter  a  supply  should  be 
ready  by  spring.     They  need  little  care. 

Shell-flower  {Moluccella).  Sow  seeds 
where  the  plants  are  to  remain  or  in  a  mild 
hot-bed  for  transplanting;  first  to  small  pots 
and  later  to  ordinary  garden  soil.  Allow 
about  eighteen  inches  between  the  plants. 
Select  some  part  of  the  garden  where  the 
plants  may  self-sow  or  where  the  volunteer 
seedlings  will  not  be  obnoxious  as  weeds. 

Shooting-star  (Dodecailieon) .  Propaga- 
tion by  seeds  is  slow.  Use  divided  plants 
when  possible.  Plant  in  partial  shade  in 
fairly  rich,  well-drained  but  inoist  soil. 
Good  among  rocks.  The  leaves  die  after  the 
plants  flower. 

Silk  Oak  {Grcvillea  robusta).  For  winter 
ornamental  purposes  sow  the  seeds  during  the 
previovis  February  or  March  in  ordinary 
potting  soil;  transplant  the  seedlings  to 
small  pots  when  about  two  inches  tall,  and 
give  frequent  changes  of  pots  as  root  develop- 
ment seems  to  demand.  By  Christmas  time 
the  plants  should  be  in  four-  or  six-inch  pots. 
They  may  be  managed  as  easily  as  geraniuins, 
and  will  stand  as  much  bad  visage.  A  new 
lot  of  seed  should  be  started  each  year,  since 
the  plants  become  bare  below  as  they  become 
large. 

Snapdragon  {Antirrhinum).  Sow  seeds 
in  early  spring  under  glass  and  transplant 
the  seedlings  to  small  pots  or  flats  when  large 


enough  to  handle.  When  the  weather 
becomes  settled  place  the  plants  about  a 
foot  apart  in  the  garden,  allowing  about 
a  foot  between  the  smaller  kinds  and  eighteen 
inches  between  the  larger.  Any  garden  soil. 
These  plants  should  blossom  in  late  summer, 
if  not  earlier.  For  earliest  spring  blossom 
and  for  winter  use  the  seeds  inay  be  sown  in 
late  summer,  the  plants  that  are  to  bloom 
during  the  winter  being  removed  before  cold 
weather,  the  others,  which  are  to  blossom 
where  they  remain,  being  protected  with  a 
light  mulch  of  straw  or  leaves  until  spring. 

Snowdrop  {Galanthiis).  Plant  the  bulbs 
about  three  inches  deep  in  any  good  soil, 
upon  the  lawn  or  in  beds,  in  clumps  or  chains. 
They  need  not  be  removed  from  the  beds  for 
years.  If  desired  to  dig  them,  do  so  after 
the  foliage  has  turned  yellow.  Dry  in  the 
shade,  clean  and  store  in  a  dry,  airy  place 
until  planting  time.  In  lawns,  the  grass 
often  chokes  the  bulbs  in  three  or  four  years, 
and  renewal  is  necessary. 

Snowflake  {Leucojum).  Plant  the  bulbs 
two  inches  deep  in  ordinary  garden  soil  in 
autumn.  Allow  the  foliage  to  die  naturally 
before  digging  for  division,  which  should 
occur  as  soon  as  the  plants  show  signs  of 
deterioration.  Useful  for  planting  in  lawns 
like  snowdrops. 

Spir^a.  Usually  propagated  by  cuttings 
of  green  or  mature  wood,  often  also  by  seeds 
sown  in  spring.  The  plants  usually  thri\-e 
in  all  moderately  moist  soils  except  the 
lightest  and  heaviest;  some,  however,  demand 
dry  ground,  thus  being  viseful  for  planting 
among  rocks;  others  (a  few)  wet  and  peaty 
situations.  As  with  soil  the  species  and 
varieties  stand  all  degrees  of  shade  (except 
the  deepest)  and  light,  even  to  full  sun.  But 
there  is  such  a  large  number  of  kinds  that 
enumeration  for  specific  situations  is  impos- 
sible here.  Their  season  extends  from  early 
spring  until  late  autumn,  the  former  generally 
being  profuse  bloomers  of  only  a  few  weeks' 
duration,  the  latter  less  floriferotis  but  of 
extended   season. 

Squill.     See  Scilla. 

Sternbergia.  Plant  the  bulbs  about  six 
inches  deep  in  rather  heavy,  dryish  soil,  well 
exposed  to  the  sun.  They  may  remain  until 
they  show  signs  of  failing,  when,  after  the 
tops  have  died  down,  they  may  be  dug, 
divided  and  reset  in  a  new  place. 

Stock,  Ten  Weeks.  Sow  seeds  in  a  mild 
hotbed  or  greenhouse  in  early  spring;  trans- 
plant the  seedlings  when  about  two  inches 
tall  to  small  pots,  and  when  the  ground 
becomes  warm  to  ordinary  garden  soil  about 
twelve  or  eighteen  inches  apart.  Later  and 
successional  sowings  may  be  made  in  the 
open  ground.  For  winter  bloom  seed  may  be 
sown  successionally ,  beginning  in  late  summer. 
The  plants  grow  readily  from  cuttings. 


Appendix 


365 


Stonecrop.  See  Sedum. 
Sultan,  Sweet.  Sow  seeds  in  early  spring 
where  the  plants  are  to  remain  and  thin  to 
about  eighteen  inches  apart.  Any  garden 
soil.  Make  successional  sowings.  For  winter 
use  sow  successionall}-,  commencing  in  late 
summer.  If  desired,  may  be  started  in  a 
mild  hotbed  or  greenhouse  and  transplanted 
to  small  pots  when  abotit  two  inches  tall. 
When  spring  opens  they  may  be  set  in  the 
garden. 

Sunflower  {Helianthiis).  Annttal  sun- 
flowers are  raised  from  seed  usually  sown 
where  the  plants  are  to  remain,  the  plants 
being  allowed  to  stand  from  two  to  five  feet 
apart  according  to  species.  The  perennial 
species  are  generally  divided  after  once 
having  become  established.  They  nearly  all 
thrive  best  in  a  light,  even  sandy  soil. 

Sun-rose  {H elianthemum) .  Sow  seeds  in 
rather  poor  soil  where  the  plants  are  to 
remain;  thin  the  small  kinds  to  about  six 
inches,  the  large  ones  to  twelve  inches,.  In 
the  north  give  a  light  mulch  of  litter  or  leaves 
during  winter. 

Sweet  Pea.      See  Pea,  Sweet. 

Tea,  Oswego.      See  Balm,  Fragrant. 

Tiger-flower.     See  Tigridia. 

TiGRiDiA.  Plant  the  corms  in  any  good 
garden  loam,  commencing  when  the  ground 
becomes  fairly  warm  and  continuing  at 
intervals  of  ten  days  or  two  weeks  until  about 
June  I  St.  The  corms  should  be  from  five 
to  ten  inches  apart  and  three  inches  below  the 
surface.  At  the  approach  of  cold  weather, 
dig  the  corms,  dry  well,  divide,  and  store  like 
gladiolus  corms  in  dry,  airy  quarters. 

Tobacco.     See  Nicotiana. 

Torch  Lily.     See  Flame-flower. 

Tritoma.      See   Flame-flower. 

Tritonia.  Treat  like  Montbretia,  which 
see. 

Tuberose  {Polianthes).  Plant  the  bulbs 
in  mid  or  late  spring,  about  one  inch  below 
the  surface  and  about  six  inches  apart  in  good, 
light  loam.  Only  such  bulbs  as  have  not  a 
woody  piece  of  last  3'ear's  stem  or  a  brownish 
cavity  in  the  center  are  of  use  for  blossoming 
purposes.  Before  frost,  dig,  dry,  clean  and 
store  the  bulbs  in  an  airy,  frost-proof  dark 
room.  The  offsets  should  be  cut  off  at 
planting  time  and,  if  desired,  planted  by 
themselves.  They  may  require  two  year's 
to  attain  blossoming  size.  The  old  root 
should  also  be  trimmed  off  at  planting  time. 

Tulip.  Plant  bulbs  about  four  inches 
deep  in  autumn,  and  protect  with  light  mulch 
dviring   winter.      When   foliage   turns   yellow. 


dig,  dry  in  a  shady  place,  clean,  and  store 
in  airy  quarters  until  autumn.  If  desired, 
the  bulbs  may  be  left  for  two  years. 

Verbena.  Sow  seed  in  midwinter  or  until 
early  spring  in  the  greenhouse  or  a  hotbed; 
transplant  when  an  inch  or  so  tall  to  small 
pots  and  set  in  ordinary  soil  two  feet  apart 
as  soon  as  danger  of  frost  has  passed.  In 
good  soil  they  need  more  room.  Choose 
ne\v  situations  each  year.  For  the  propa- 
gation of  a  particular  variety  or  colour 
cuttings  of  sturdy  shoots  must  be  used,  since 
seedlings  are  rather  unstable  as  to  colour. 
Germination  of  the  seeds  is  thought  to  be 
hastened  by  soaking  in  warm  water  over 
night. 

Virgin's  Bower.     Sec.  Clematis. 

Wool  Grass.     See  Ravenna  Grass. 

Wandering  Jew.      See  Zebrina. 

WiNDFLOWER.        ScC    AnEMONE. 

Xeranthemum.  Sow  seeds  in  the  open 
ground  where  the  plants  are  to  remain  and 
thin  out  to  about  eighteen  inches.  The}-  may 
be  started  under  glass  if  desired. 

Yucca.  Propagate  by  means  of  offsets, 
seed,  stem,  and  rhizome  cuttings.  Plant  in 
any  good  soil,  sandy  loam  preferred.  Set 
the  plants  about  four  feet  apart  in  groups. 
They  like  sun  and  will  do  well  among  rocks. 

Zebrina.  Set  plants  under  greenhouse 
benches,  in  hanging  baskets,  vases,  etc. 
Readily  propagated  by  means  of  layers  or 
cuttings. 

Zephyranthes.  In  autumn  or  during  win- 
ter plant  in  pots  of  ordinary  potting  soil  and 
plunge  in  a  moist  place  under  the  greenhouse 
bench.  The  earlier  planted  specimens  may 
be  expected  to  bloom  toward  spring,  if  not 
allowed  to  become  dry.  Winter  is,  however, 
the  resting  season.  When  the  weather 
becomes  settled  they  may  be  transplanted  to 
light,  fairly  rich  soil.  The  bulbs  may  also  be 
wintered  in  a  rather  moist  place  and"  planted 
in  the  spring.  Long  successions  may  be 
managed  by  combining  these  two  methods. 
In  the  garden  the  plants  should  stand  eight 
inches  apart  and  the  bulbs  three  inches  deep. 
In  autumn  dig,  divide  the  bulbs,  and  either 
plant  or  store. 

Zephyr-flower.     See  Zephyranthes. 

Zinnia.  Sow  the  seed  in  early  spring  in 
a  hotbed;  transplant  when  a  couple  of  inches 
tall  to  flats  or  pots  and  set  in  the  open  after 
frost  has  passed.  For  later  blossoms  sow  in 
the  garden  where  the  plants  are  to  remain 
and  thin  out  the  excess  to  about  two  feet. 
Dwarf  varieties  may  be  set  as  close  as  five 
inches. 


INDEX  TO  TEXT  AND  ILLUSTRATIONS 


Adder's  tongue,  284 

Akebia  quinata,  97 

Allen,  James  J.,  article  b}',  283 

Alpine  plants,  161 

Ampelopsis  on  a  wall,  103 

Ampclopsis  Vcitchii,  102 

Anemone,  xi 

Annuals  for  mass  display,  low-growing. 

Annuals  for  mass  displa}-,  tall,  13 

Annuals,  select  lists  of,  14 

Aponogeton  disiachynni,   159 

Aquatic  basin,   148 

Arch,  rose,  103 

Argcmonc  Mexican  a,   15 

Armido  Don  ax,   27 

Ash,  weeping,  95 

Asplenium,  Trichomancs,  112 

Asters,    117 

Asters,  China,  8 

Azalea  ama-na,  62 

Azalea  mollis,  55 

Azalea  shed  and  pits,  195 

Azaleas,    219 

Bailey,  L.  H.,  articles  by,  ix,  3,  25,  53, 

299 
Barclay,  F.  W.,  article  by,  26 
Barron,  Leonard,  article  by,  300 
Basin  for  aquatics,   148 
Bedding  plants,  240 
Beech,  purple-leaved,  85 
Beech,  weeping,  94 
Begonia,  Gloire  de  Lorraine,  185,  235 
Begonias,   210 

Berckmans,  P.  J.,  article  bj^  307 
Bergamot,  wild,  286 
Birch,  cut-leaved,  85 
Birch,  Young's  weeping,  92 
Bittersweet,  American,  98,  102 
Bittersweet,  Japanese,  98 
Blazing  star,  31 
Bog  garden,  the,   160 
Boltonias,  31 
Border-planting,  70 
Border,  How  to  Make  a,  26 
Border  of  hardy  perennial  plants,  52 
Box  borders,  248 
Brake,  115 
Bulbs,  119 

Buttercup,  the  Bermuda,  181 
Butterfly  weed,  286 

California  Wild  Flowers,  293 

Cannas,  244 

Canning,  Edward  J.,  articles  by,  132,  i 


Cardinal  flower,  the,  2S9,  290 
Carnation,  214 
Celastrus  orbiculatus,  98 
Celastrus  scandens,  98 
Cercus,  night-blooming,  x\Mii 
Cherry,  Japanese  weejnng,  96 
Children's  gardens,  xxii 
13  Chrysanthemums,    234 

Chrysanthemums,  hardy,  48 
Chrysanthemums  on  a  side  bench,  218 
Clematis  Flammula,  97 
Clematis  panictdaia,  97 
Climbers,    102 

Coldframes  for  Wintering  Plants,  189 
Coldframes  of  brick  and  iron,   199 
Colour  effect  in  borders,  29 
Concealing  rubbish,  106 
Country  Home,  How  I  Btiilt  My,  323 
Cowslip,    Virginia,    iii 
Crab,  Japanese  flowering,  71 
Crimson   Rambler  before  priming,  316 
Crimson  Rambler  pruned,  316 
Crimson  Rambler,  pruning,   77 
Crocuses,    126 
209,       Crown  Imperial,  29 

Cucumber  and  nasturtiiims,  w-ild,    106 

Cucumber,  wild,    107 

Curve,   xiv 

Curve  in  the  driveway,  324 

Cut-leaved  shrubs,  65 

Cyclamen,   180,   187 

Daffodil,  Trumpet,   121 

Davy,  Joseph  Biirtt,  article  by,  293 

Day  lily,  hybrid,  47 

Deutzia  gracilis,  62 

Deutzia,  pruning,   74 

Dodecatheon,  33 

Dog's  tooth  \iolet,  284 

Early  flowers,  7,16 

Elhs,  J.  A.,  article  by,  218 

Elm,  Camperdown,  94 

Erichsen,  Hugo,  article  by,  226 

Eulalias,    27 

Evergreens  in  winter,  90,  95 

Everlastings,    14 

Falconer,  William,  article  by,  69 
Fall  planting,   33,   66 
Fassett,  E.  C.  B.,  article  by,  271 
Fences,   xiv 

Fences,  flowers  to  grow  in,  10 
Fern,  Christmas,   115,   116 
67  Fern,  cinnamon,   115,   116 


368 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


Fern,  climbing,  112 

Fern,   Hartford,    112 

Fern,   ostrich,    11 1 

Fern,  royal,    116 

Ferns  by  the  million,   117 

Ferns,  cut,   117 

Ferns,  native,  iii 

Fiddleheads,    286 

Floating  heart,  159 

Flower  garden,  an  ideal,  91 

Flowers  for  comparati\-e  study,  4 

Flowers  for  cutting,  4 

Flowers  for  garden  effects,  4 

Flowers  for  specimen  plants,  4 

Forget-me-nots,   200 

Formal  Garden,  How  to  Make  a,  239 

Forsythia,  how  to  prune,  66,  77 

Forsythia,  weak  point  of,  65 

Foxgloves,   43 

Freesias,   188 

Freezing,   33 

Frogs,   140 

FuUerton,  Edith  Lormg,  article  by,   175 

Fullertons,  article  by,  106 

Gardening,  a  bit  of  Nature's,  108 

Gardening,  both  styles  of,   245 

Gerard,  J.  N.,  article  by,  189,  221 

Gilia  Calif  arnica,  295 

Golden-leaved  trees,  86 

Goldenrod,   289 

Goldfish  feeding  on  mosquito  larva;,  144 

Goodyera  pnbescens,  291 

Grasses,  formal  beds  of,   243 

Grasses,  ornamental,   14 

Greenhouse,  The  Pleasures  of  a  Small,  209 

Ground  cover,   xiv 

Ground-hne,    57 

Harvey,  E.  T.,  article  by,  229 

Hedge,  a,  257 

Hedges,  appropriate,  257 

Hedges,  clippings  from,  81 

Heliotrope,  the  common,  180 

Hemlock,   Hooker's,   86 

Hollyhocks,   37,»5i 

Honie  Garden,  Spirit  of  the,  ix 

Hopkins,  Sarah,  article  by,  198 

Hotbeds  for  Early  Flowers,  203 

Hunnemannia,   35 

Hyacinth,  a  truss  of,  180 

Hyacinths,   177 

Hyacinths,  white,  134 

Hydrangea,   xvii 

Hydrangea  hortensis,  74 

Hydrangea   paniciilaia,  var.  grandiflora,   78 

Hydrangea,   propagating,  78 

Hydrangea,  pruning,  73 

Hydrangea,  use  of,  61 

Indian   pipe,   294 

Iris,  Japanese,  xv,  141 

Iris  laevigata,  xv 

Italian  garden  at  Brookline,  an,  241 


Ivy,   English,    102 
Ivy,  Japan,  102 

Japanese   Gardening  for  Small  Areas,   259 
Jones,  Laura,  article  by,  197 
Juneberry,   83 

Labels,   x 

Lady's-slipper,    iii,   287 

Landscape  gardener  for  small  place,  58 

Landscape  gardening,  323 

Larch,  weeping,  95 

Lemon  lily,  the,   297 

Leucothoc  acemosa,  65 

Liatris,    31 

Lilac,  California,   296 

Lilac,  pruning,  74 

Lilacs,   79 

Lilies,  Easter,  219 

Lilium  superbum,  30,  328 

Lilium  testaceum,  74 

Lily-of-the- valley,   xiv 

Limnanthemum  Indicuni,  159 

Lotus,   Egyptian,   149 

Lotus  in  a  farmer's  yard,  151 

Lycium  barbatum,  loi,  102 

Lyciunt  Chinense,  loi 

Lygodium  palmatum,  112 

Alagnolia   skilata,   85 

Magnolia    Ynlan,   xix 

Maidenhair  fern,    112 

Maidenhair  ferns  naturalised,  113 

Maitland,   Maida,   article  by,  233 

Manning,  Warren  H.,  article  by,  239 

Maple,  Japanese,  82 

Matrimony   vines,    102 

Melons  in  boxes,  yotmg,   205 

Mignonette,    201 

Mill  covered  by  native  vines,  a,  108 

Minshall,  Arthur  G.,  article  by,  214 

Miscanthus,   27 

Mock  orange,   75 

Mock  orange,  pruning,   74 

Moneywort,  xiv 

Moonseed,    loi 

Morning-glories,  Japanese,   9 

Mosquito  problem,   the,    137 

Mulberry,  Tea's  weeping,  93 

Mulching,    9 

Murray,  Thomas,  article  by,  200 

Mynopkyllmn  proserpinacoides,  159 

Narcissus,   177 
Narcissus,  a  bed  of,  131 
Narcissus  gloriosus,  188 
Narcissus  Horsfieldii,  121 
Narcissus,  poet's,   127 
Narcissus  Sulphur  Phoenix,  120 
Narcissus  Tazetta,  183 
Narcissus  Van  Sion,  122 
Nelumbium  speciosum,  149 
Nymphaeas,    152 
Nymphcea  tuber osa,  xxiii,  152 


Ind( 


369 


Oak,  swamp  white,  90 

O'Mara,  Patrick,  articles  by,  119, 

Orchids,  215 

Osmunda  cinnamomea,    116 

Oxalis  lutea,  181 


[94,  203 


Pan-American   Exposition,   25 

Pansies,   200 

Parks,  suggestions  from,  58 

Parrot's  feather,  the,  159 

Pennisctiim  longtstylum,  27 

Peonies,    30 

Peony,  the,  328 

Pepp'eridge,  88 

Perennials,   25 

Perennials  from  seed,  36 

Pergola   at    Biltmore,   N.    C,    102 

Pergola  in  a  formal  garden  at  Brookline,  107 

Periwinkle,  xiv 

Philadelphia.    75 

Phlox,  prickly,  295 

Pitcher  plant' in  flower,  153 

Pitcher  plants,   289 

Pits,  191 

Pits,  inexpensive,   197 

Plagiobothrys,   294 

Plantain,  western,  x 

Plant-table,  a,   19 

Pkxm,  a  wild,  88 

Plum,  purple-leaved,  85 

Pond,  how  to  make  a,  148 

Pond-weed,  cape,   159 

Poppies,  3 

Poppy,  horned,   13 

Poppy,  Mexican,  15 

Poppy  of  California,  45 

Primula  obconica,   180 

Privet,  propagating,  81 

Pruning,  Nature's,  91 

Pruning  shrubs,  69 

Primus  Amencatuis,  88 

Psyche,   304 

Pteris  aquilina,  115 

Pumpkins,   103 

Pumpkin  vine  at  a  back  door,  104 

Parple-leaved  shrubs,   65 

Pyrola,   xiii 

Pyrus  floribunda,   71 

Qiicrciis  bicolor,  90 

Rathbone,  Alice  M.,  article  by,  39 
Rattlesnake  plantain,   291 
Reed,  Edward  A.,  article  by,  225 
Reed,  giant,  27 
Rhododendrons,   59 
Rhododendrons,  illustration  of,  63 
Rock  gardens,    161 
Romneya  Coulteri,  45 
Rosa  ritgosa,  299,  317,  319 
Rosa  riigosa,  pruning,  70 
Rosa  spinosissima,  312 
Rose  bank,   a,   320 
Rose,  Christmas,  51 


Rose,   climbing  General   Jacqueminot,   313 

Roses,   53,   299 

Roses  and  pyrethrums,  2 58 

Roses  essentially   flower-garden   subjects,   65 

Roses  for  the  South,  307 

Roses  in  California,  305 

Roses  in  shrubbery,  65 

Roses  near  Chicago,  311 

Roses,  pruning,  77,  315 

Rudbeckia  Golden  Glow,  41 

Rue  anemone,   285 

Salix  Babylontca,  93 

Sargent,  W.  H.,  article  by,  320 

Sarracenia  purpurea,    153 

Sawing  a  branch,  91 

Scale,  bark,  70 

Scattered  Planting  vs    Masses,  52 

Scott,  WilHam,   25 

Shady  places,  plants  for,  xiv 

Shin-leafs,  xiii 

Shooting  star,  xt,,  294 

Shortia  galacifolia,   44 

Shrul)bery,  Home  Propagation  of,  78 

Shrul)s  and  shrubbery,   53 

Shrul)s,  native,  for  bulk  of  planting,  58 

Shrubs,  select  lists  of,   61 

Shrubs  that  need  little  pruning,  73 

Shrubs    that    should    be    cut    to    the    ground 

every  winter,   73 
Shrubs,  very  showy,  61 
Simonds,  O.  C  ,  article  by,  83 
Sky-line,   57 

Snowballs,  Japanese,  pruning,  77 
Solid  ago  Canadensis,  289 
Solomon's  seal,  false,  287 
Specimen  plants,  x 
Spirea,   67 
Spirea,  pruning,   74 
Spraying,  69 

Sprticc,  Colorado  blue,  86 
Spruce,  Norway,  weeping,  94 
Squills  covered'with  leaves  for  the  winter,  125 
Stump,  an  old,  286 
Sumac,  57 
Sumac,  staghom,  74 
Sun-dial,  a,   252 

Sweet,  Frank 'H.,  article  by,  78 
Sweet  pea,  7 
Sweet  pea  garden,   19 

Tamarix  pruning,   73 

Taplin,  W.  H.,  article  by,  iii 

Tecoma,   103 

Thvme,  creeping,   286 

Toothwort,    288 

Townscnd,  C.  H.,  article  by,  271 

Trees  for  the  Home  Grounds,  83 

Trees  in  winter,  88 

Tricker,  William,  article  by,   147 

Trillium  grandifiorum,  288 

Trumpet   creeper,    103 

Tsiiga  Hookerii,  86 

Tubs,  aquatics  in,  155 


370 


How  to  Make  a  Flower  Garden 


Tulips,  133,  177 

Tulips  edging  an  informal  shrubbery  border, 

129 
Tulips  in  a  formal  bed,  123 
Tulip   tree,  84 
Twiners,    102 

Underwood,  William  Lyman,  article  b}',  137 

Variegated  shrubs,  65 

Venus's   looking-glass,   286 

Verbeck,    William,   259 

Victoria  leaf,   159 

Victoria  regia,  156 

Victoria  regia  in  flower,  154 

Victoria     regia,     the     wonderful     sustaining 

power  of,  155 
Vtctoria   Trickcri,   157 
Vines,  a  mill  covered  by  native,  108 
Vines  and  creepers,  97 
Vines,  annual,   106 
Vines,   classification  of,   102 
Vines  needing  support,  103 
Violets  for  coldframes,  200 
Violets  in  coldframes,  176,  198 
Virginia  creeper,  97,  10 1 

Walking  leaf,   the,    112 
Walks,  xiv 


Wallflowers,    200 

Wallflowers,  annual,  3 

Water-garden,  the,  137 

Watering,  9,  34 

Water-lilies,  147 

Water-lilies  as  cut  flowers,  147 

Water-lily,   xxiii 

Water-lily  pond,  a,   156 

Water-lih'  pond,  another  view  of   the  same, 

157 
Water-lily,  the  white,  151 
Watson,  B.  M.,  article  by,  315 
Weeping  trees,  92 
Western  pasque  flower,  the,  xi 
Wheel-hoe,  4 
White  day  lily,  47 

Wilbor,    William   Chambers,    article   by,    103 
Wild  gardening,  1 1 1 
Wild  gardens,  283 
Willow,  Wisconsin  weeping,  93 
Windbreak  of  willows,  a,   191 
Window  garden,  a  successful,  176 
Window  Garden,  The  Home,  175 
Wintergreen,  xiii,   294 
Wood,  James,  article  by,  190 

Yellow  as  a  harmoniser,  44 
Yellow-leaved  shrubs,   65 


SB°S  «""'"""*  "■*"•«*'"''"*• 


"°"  '°  S;.Kr"  M»E»  A  MANUAL  OF 


